Climbs 111
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 120m a.s.l
Faces S

New Mills Torrs, view from the Riverside Pillar. © stoo2k

Crag features

A continuous quarried face some 200m long and up to 22m high set in an impressive narrow gorge, popular with local walkers. Rock generally good, steep/overhanging with square cut holds. Sheltered during rain. Routes mainly HVS and above. Well worth a visit, especially if you're rained off a more exposed moorland edge in the area. Best routes are Alcove Crack (HVS 5a), King of the Swingers (E1 5b), The Arete (E3 5b), Electric Circus (E2 5b), Bionics Wall (E4 6a), and Hallelujah Chorus (E5 6b).

There's also some excellent bouldering with long traverses of the left-hand crag (V2) and the Viaduct Wall (V2 and V7 at different heights).

[Mod's note: the pin on the googleMap can't be placed right on the crag. It's about 100 m west of the pin.]

Approach notes

From New Mills (9 miles SE of Stockport just off the A6) follow signs to 'The Tors' (5 min); or from New Mills Central bus station or train station follow signs for the Millenium walkway bridge - the crag is just beyond.
Alternatively park on Albion Road, walk down Jodrell Street and down the long ramp from the Rock Inn and you'll see the crag in front of you.

The best post-crag pubs are the Rock Inn on Torr Vale Road (nice beer garden when sunny) or the Beehive on Albion Road. The best chippy is the one on Market Street in the town centre and the best cafe is Llamedos, further up Market Street.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
Peak District: Bouldering (2011)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990)

Out of print:
Some lower off's have appeared on bionics wall.
angus - 21/Nov/14
Could someone give me an idea of where the line 'Worthy of some strain E3/6b goes? Is it left or right of Grim Reaper?
MischaHY - 11/Nov/13
On the viaduct pillar? They are in the BMC 'Over The Moors Guidebook' and listed here on UKC under the 'Viaduct Pillar' and 'Riverside Pillar' headings. I have just updated the climbs according to the guidebook.
David Kay - 15/Jul/13
Great to see so many climbers out on the viaduct and also bouldering/climbing the rock face - for those that don't know the town there are several pubs, cafes, shops and a Heritage Centre up the steps to the side of the rock face, they are dog, cycle and climber friendly - thanks.
visitnewmills - 31/Mar/13
Hi, What's the route to the right of Evolution or Outrage?
rustaldo - 17/Nov/12
I'm away until the end of the month, but will try and update the rest of the climbs when I get back.
David Kay - 04/Aug/12
10 shiny new well bolted lines on the bridge parapet should entice a few more down here. As part of the Torrs Riverside Park, the place is now being looked after by a combination of the town council and the local climbing club - The Mynydd.
Normclimber - 03/Sep/11
There are some good routes here, but beware of loose rock and, er, hypodermic needles. Yes, someone dislodged one of these from the top of a route today and it missed his belayer by a few feet.
PeteH - 01/May/10
the flake mid way up the orgional route is dangerously loose!
hiu068 - 22/Dec/07
Might be worth knowing how to abseil before attending this crag! All in all its a nice little place, dry mostly when everywhere else is wet, just keep an eye on the baggage! Im convinced the older folk where eyeing up my trainers at the bottom of the climb! However its a nice place, gear is pretty sparce at the top. Give it a go!
Jimbo MSider - 23/Feb/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Alcove
2 Basic Arete E1 5b 15
3 The Stork
-
E1 5c 2
4 Alcove Crack HVS 5a *** 502
5 Alcove Wall f7C * 2
6 Sunny Day f6C 4
7 Alcove Traverse f5+ * 38
8 Alcove Traverse Low Version f6B * 3
9 Like a Ship without an Anchor, like a Slave without a Chain E4 6b * 3
10 The Sandman E1 5b 16
11 "54" E5 6b  
12 Soiled Goods E2 5c 11
13 Porky's Wall Left-hand
-
f6A 17
14 Porky's Wall HVS 5c 54
15 Porky's Wall Right-hand f5+ 14
16 Piggy's Crack VS 4c * 195
17 The Steeple HVS 5a * 71
18 Clotted Cream VS 4c 33
  Electric Circus
20 Trinity Crack
-
E1 4c 3
21 Nutshrinker E3 6a ** 4
22 The Arete E2 5b ** 47
23 Siege Tactics E4 6b ** 3
24 Ultimatum E3 6a ** 14
25 Mather Crack E2 5b ** 234
26 Grunties E3 6a * 2
27 Electric Circus E3 5c ** 166
28 Short Circuit E4 6a 21
29 Oak Tree Wall E3 5c * 8
30 Worthy of Some Strain E3 6b  
31 Grim Reaper Traverse f6A+ ** 50
32 Grim Reaper Direct f7A+ * 4
33 The Grim Reaper E5 6b * 5
34 Transformation HVS 4c 27
35 Sandy Arete f6A+ * 18
36 Sandbox E3 5b 2
37 Mort f7C+ * 1
38 Stonewall Crack
-
HVS 5a 32
  Viaduct Wall
40 The Poise E2 5c * 10
41 Confusion VS 4b 18
42 Drank On Saturday HVS 5a 9
43 Drunken Sunday S 4a 34
44 The Flake
-
VS 4b * 102
45 Slap E2 5c 6
46 The Foundling
-
VS 4c 54
47 The Overlooked Groove HS 4b 122
48 The Inbetweenie VS 4c 35
49 Original Route VD 3c * 217
50 Cracked Corner HS 4b * 259
51 Viaduct Crack HVS 5b * 154
52 Viaduct Crack Start f4+ * 17
53 Haze E1 5c 12
54 Viaduct Eliminate f6C ** 40
55 Viaduct Eliminate Extension f6C+ 12
56 Viaduct Wall E2 5c * 95
57 Viaduct Wall Start f6A+ ** 47
58 Honcho Left f6C ** 25
59 Honcho E4 6b * 98
60 Honcho Start f6B+ *** 84
61 Honcho Right-hand f6C ** 30
62 Machiavelli E2 5c *  
63 Deception HVS 5a 122
64 Deception Start f4 10
65 Viaduct Wall Traverse f5 * 228
  Bionic's Wall
67 Bionic's Wall Low Left f6C+ * 10
68 Bionic's Low Left Right Hand Finish f7A+ ** 9
69 The Redemption of a Grit Pegging Antichrist E3 5c * 6
70 Bionic's Wall Direct f6A+ ** 118
71 Bionic's Direct Low Start f6B * 35
72 Bionic's Direct Sit Start V5 * 7
73 Bionic Man f7C  
74 Bionic's Wall E4 6a ** 82
75 Bionic's Wall Right f6B+ * 24
76 Bionic's Wall Right - Direct finish f7A 1
77 Hallelujah Chorus E5 6b * 11
78 Hallelujah Start f4+ 34
79 Heavy Duty E2 5b ** 40
80 King of the Swingers E1 5b ** 45
81 Rain Games f7B * 1
82 Un-natural Act MVS  
83 Bionics Traverse f7A+ ** 15
84 The Full Traverse V6 * 22
85 The Full Traverse with Bionics Traverse V7 1
  The Viaduct Sport Climbs
  The Main Viaduct Support
88 The Thin End of the Hedge 6a * 83
89 This is Not Cheedale 6b * 28
90 The Price of Admission 6a+ 94
91 Revenge Of The Grit Bolting Antichrist 6b 10
92 Welcome To Portland (Oregon) 6c 53
93 Evolution or Outrage? 7a * 26
94 The Girlfriend 6b+ 31
95 Have You Ever Been Up Everest, Mister? 6c 23
96 The Beginning of the End 6a 95
  The Riverside Support
98 Yeah, Whatever 6a+ 30
99 Come Down This Instant! 6b * 15
100 My Plan For World Domination 6b+ * 5
  Ejector Wall
102 Nickle 'n Dime
-
E3 5c  
103 Pumpernickel E3 5c * 5
104 Jenga E1 4c * 1
105 Ejector
-
HVS 5b  
106 Tossers
-
HVS 5b  
107 Name and Number
-
E1 5b  
  Other Climbs - see definitive guide or discriptions
109 Big Smegg Sport Climb E5 6a * 1
110 Glass Ceiling E1 5b * 1
111 Career Temptation HVS 5a 2
112 Dog Bin Crack HVS 5a 2
113 HVS 5b, big crack right of Pumpernickel
-
HVS 5b 1
  Other/Eliminate Problems
115 Viaduct wall Eliminate 1 V2 5c 9
116 Viaduct Wall Eliminate 2 V3 6a 6
117 Half Tor Traverse V1 * 13
118 Hallelujuh Arete V5 6b 5
119 Hallaleujah Crack V2 5c * 7
120 Tectonic Traverse V7 4
121 Vegetable Flake VS 4c 4
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond