Climbs 111
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 135m a.s.l
Faces S

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New Mills Torrs, view from the Riverside Pillar. © stoo2k

Crag features

New Mills Tor is a well-hidden crag, set in a deep gloomy gorge right bang in the centre of New Mills. The cliff is witheringly steep, surprisingly tall for grit and composed of a rather soft and sandy gritstone, not the well-weathered stone you might be used to. These various factors all add up to make the routes here intimidating and pumpy propositions. Although some of the routes are esoteric, the best of the climbs here are very good and the oddness of the setting adds to the whole experience of the place - if you are passing by, call in and sample the unique experience that is New Mills Tor.

The crag is steep enough to stay dry in light rain and the tree canopy in the summer adds to the shelter. The steepest part of the cliff is right under the viaduct, and this stays dry even in monsoon conditions. The walls do face south, so can catch the sun, but they are also shaded by the tree cover and bridge pillars.

Approach notes

There are various quiet streets and pay and display parking options in New Mills. From behind the bus turning circle, a steep path leads down to the left-hand end of the cliff.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
Peak District: Bouldering (2011)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990)

Out of print:
Some lower off's have appeared on bionics wall.
angus - 21/Nov/14
Could someone give me an idea of where the line 'Worthy of some strain E3/6b goes? Is it left or right of Grim Reaper?
MischaHY - 11/Nov/13
On the viaduct pillar? They are in the BMC 'Over The Moors Guidebook' and listed here on UKC under the 'Viaduct Pillar' and 'Riverside Pillar' headings. I have just updated the climbs according to the guidebook.
David Kay - 15/Jul/13
Great to see so many climbers out on the viaduct and also bouldering/climbing the rock face - for those that don't know the town there are several pubs, cafes, shops and a Heritage Centre up the steps to the side of the rock face, they are dog, cycle and climber friendly - thanks.
visitnewmills - 31/Mar/13
Hi, What's the route to the right of Evolution or Outrage?
rustaldo - 17/Nov/12
I'm away until the end of the month, but will try and update the rest of the climbs when I get back.
David Kay - 04/Aug/12
10 shiny new well bolted lines on the bridge parapet should entice a few more down here. As part of the Torrs Riverside Park, the place is now being looked after by a combination of the town council and the local climbing club - The Mynydd.
Normclimber - 03/Sep/11
There are some good routes here, but beware of loose rock and, er, hypodermic needles. Yes, someone dislodged one of these from the top of a route today and it missed his belayer by a few feet.
PeteH - 01/May/10
the flake mid way up the orgional route is dangerously loose!
hiu068 - 22/Dec/07
Might be worth knowing how to abseil before attending this crag! All in all its a nice little place, dry mostly when everywhere else is wet, just keep an eye on the baggage! Im convinced the older folk where eyeing up my trainers at the bottom of the climb! However its a nice place, gear is pretty sparce at the top. Give it a go!
Jimbo MSider - 23/Feb/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Alcove
2 Basic Arête E1 5b 19
3 The Stork
-
E1 5c 2
4 Alcove Crack HVS 5a *** 567
5 Alcove Traverse f5+ * 64
6 Alcove Wall f7C * 2
7 Sunny Day f6C 10
8 Alcove Traverse Low Version f6B * 11
9 Like a Ship without an Anchor, like a Slave without a Chain E4 6b * 3
10 The Sandman E1 5b 18
11 "54" E5 6b  
12 Soiled Goods E2 5c 11
13 Porky's Wall HVS 5c 59
14 Porky's Wall Start
-
f6A 23
15 Porky's Wall Right-hand f5+ 21
16 Piggy's Crack VS 4c * 218
17 The Steeple HVS 5a * 85
18 Clotted Cream VS 4c 39
  Electric Circus
20 Trinity Crack
-
E1 4c 3
21 Nutshrinker E3 6a ** 7
22 The Arête E2 5b ** 60
23 Siege Tactics E4 6b ** 3
24 Ultimatum E3 6a ** 18
25 Mather Crack E2 5b ** 271
26 Grunties E3 6a * 2
27 Short Circuit E3 5c 21
28 Electric Circus E3 5c ** 185
29 Oak Tree Wall E3 5c * 12
30 Worthy of Some Strain E3 6b  
31 The Grim Reaper E5 6b * 5
32 Grim Reaper Traverse f6A+ ** 74
33 Grim Reaper Direct f7A+ * 4
34 Transformation HVS 4c * 35
35 Sandbox E3 5b 2
36 Sandy Arête f6A+ * 31
37 Mort f7C+ * 1
38 Stonewall Crack HVS 4c 38
  Viaduct Wall
40 The Poise E2 5c * 11
41 Confusion VS 4b 23
Climb name Grade
42 Drank On Saturday HVS 5a 11
43 Drunken Sunday S 4a 42
44 The Flake VS 4b 137
45 Slap E2 5c 8
46 The Foundling
-
VS 4c 66
47 The Overlooked Groove HS 4b 146
48 The Inbetweenie VS 4c 48
49 Original Route VD 3c * 248
50 Cracked Corner HS 4b * 313
51 Viaduct Wall Traverse f5 * 346
52 Viaduct Crack HVS 5b * 180
53 Viaduct Crack Start f4+ * 25
54 Haze E1 5c * 13
55 Viaduct Eliminate f6C ** 55
56 Viaduct Eliminate Dyno Finish
-
f7A+ 17
57 Viaduct Wall E2 5c * 105
58 Viaduct Wall Start f6A+ ** 63
59 Honcho Left f6C ** 38
60 Honcho E4 6b * 110
61 Honcho Start f6B+ *** 114
62 Honcho Right-hand f6C ** 43
63 Machiavelli E2 5c *  
64 Deception HVS 5a 148
65 Deception Start f4 38
  Bionic's Wall
67 Bionic's Wall Low Left f6C+ * 11
68 Bionic's Wall Low Right-hand Finish f7A+ ** 10
69 The Redemption of a Grit Pegging Antichrist E3 5c * 8
70 Bionic's Wall Direct f6A+ ** 156
71 Bionic's Wall Direct Low Start f6B * 45
72 Bionic's Wall Direct Sit-start V5 * 8
73 Bionic Man f7C 1
74 Bionic's Wall E4 6a ** 101
75 Bionic's Wall Right f6B+ * 25
76 Bionic's Wall Right Direct Finish f7A 1
77 Hallelujah Chorus E5 6b * 13
78 Hallelujah Start f4+ 68
79 Bionic's Traverse f7A+ ** 16
80 The Full Traverse with Bionics Traverse V7 1
81 The Full Traverse V6 * 24
82 Heavy Duty E2 5b ** 54
Climb name Grade
83 King of the Swingers E1 5b ** 46
84 Rain Games f7B * 1
85 Un-natural Act VS 2
  The Viaduct Sport Climbs
  The Main Viaduct Support
88 The Thin End of the Hedge 6a * 113
89 This is Not Cheedale 6b * 48
90 The Price of Admission 6a+ 122
91 Revenge Of The Grit Bolting Antichrist 6b 19
92 Welcome To Portland (Oregon) 6c 69
93 Evolution or Outrage? 7a * 33
94 The Girlfriend 6b+ 36
95 Have You Ever Been Up Everest, Mister? 6c 29
96 The Beginning of the End 6a 111
  The Riverside Support
98 Yeah, Whatever 6a+ 36
99 Come Down This Instant! 6b * 17
100 My Plan For World Domination 6b+ * 5
  Ejector Wall
102 Nickle 'n Dime
-
E3 5c  
103 Pumpernickel E3 5c * 5
104 Jenga E1 4c * 1
105 Ejector
-
HVS 5b  
106 Tossers
-
HVS 5b  
107 Name and Number
-
E1 5b  
  Other Climbs - see definitive guide or discriptions
109 Big Smegg Sport Climb E5 6a * 1
110 Glass Ceiling E1 5b * 1
111 Career Temptation HVS 5a 2
112 Dog Bin Crack HVS 5a 3
113 HVS 5b, big crack right of Pumpernickel
-
HVS 5b 1
  Other/Eliminate Problems
115 Viaduct wall Eliminate 1 V2 5c 10
116 Viaduct Wall Eliminate 2 V3 6a 7
117 Half Tor Traverse V1 * 17
118 Hallelujuh Arete V5 6b 7
119 Hallaleujah Crack V2 5c * 11
120 Tectonic Traverse V7 6
121 Vegetable Flake VS 4c 4
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond