Climbs 111
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 120m a.s.l
Faces S

New Mills Torrs, view from the Riverside Pillar. © stoo2k

Crag features

A continuous quarried face some 200m long and up to 22m high set in an impressive narrow gorge, popular with local walkers. Rock generally good, steep/overhanging with square cut holds. Sheltered during rain. Routes mainly HVS and above. Well worth a visit, especially if you're rained off a more exposed moorland edge in the area. Best routes are Alcove Crack (HVS 5a), King of the Swingers (E1 5b), The Arete (E3 5b), Electric Circus (E2 5b), Bionics Wall (E4 6a), and Hallelujah Chorus (E5 6b).

There's also some excellent bouldering with long traverses of the left-hand crag (V2) and the Viaduct Wall (V2 and V7 at different heights).

[Mod's note: the pin on the googleMap can't be placed right on the crag. It's about 100 m west of the pin.]

Approach notes

From New Mills (9 miles SE of Stockport just off the A6) follow signs to 'The Tors' (5 min); or from New Mills Central bus station or train station follow signs for the Millenium walkway bridge - the crag is just beyond.
Alternatively park on Albion Road, walk down Jodrell Street and down the long ramp from the Rock Inn and you'll see the crag in front of you.

The best post-crag pubs are the Rock Inn on Torr Vale Road (nice beer garden when sunny) or the Beehive on Albion Road. The best chippy is the one on Market Street in the town centre and the best cafe is Llamedos, further up Market Street.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
Peak District: Bouldering (2011)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990)

Out of print:
Some lower off's have appeared on bionics wall.
angus - 21/Nov/14
Could someone give me an idea of where the line 'Worthy of some strain E3/6b goes? Is it left or right of Grim Reaper?
MischaHY - 11/Nov/13
On the viaduct pillar? They are in the BMC 'Over The Moors Guidebook' and listed here on UKC under the 'Viaduct Pillar' and 'Riverside Pillar' headings. I have just updated the climbs according to the guidebook.
David Kay - 15/Jul/13
Great to see so many climbers out on the viaduct and also bouldering/climbing the rock face - for those that don't know the town there are several pubs, cafes, shops and a Heritage Centre up the steps to the side of the rock face, they are dog, cycle and climber friendly - thanks.
visitnewmills - 31/Mar/13
Hi, What's the route to the right of Evolution or Outrage?
rustaldo - 17/Nov/12
I'm away until the end of the month, but will try and update the rest of the climbs when I get back.
David Kay - 04/Aug/12
10 shiny new well bolted lines on the bridge parapet should entice a few more down here. As part of the Torrs Riverside Park, the place is now being looked after by a combination of the town council and the local climbing club - The Mynydd.
Normclimber - 03/Sep/11
There are some good routes here, but beware of loose rock and, er, hypodermic needles. Yes, someone dislodged one of these from the top of a route today and it missed his belayer by a few feet.
PeteH - 01/May/10
the flake mid way up the orgional route is dangerously loose!
hiu068 - 22/Dec/07
Might be worth knowing how to abseil before attending this crag! All in all its a nice little place, dry mostly when everywhere else is wet, just keep an eye on the baggage! Im convinced the older folk where eyeing up my trainers at the bottom of the climb! However its a nice place, gear is pretty sparce at the top. Give it a go!
Jimbo MSider - 23/Feb/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Alcove 
2Basic AreteE1 5b 15
3The Stork
-
E1 5c 2
4Alcove CrackHVS 5a ***480
5Alcove Wallf7C *1
6Sunny Dayf6C 4
7Alcove Traversef5+ *35
8Alcove Traverse Low Versionf6B *3
9Like a Ship without an Anchor, like a Slave without a ChainE4 6b *3
10The SandmanE1 5b 17
11"54"E5 6b  
12Soiled GoodsE2 5c 11
13Porky's Wall Left-hand
-
f6A 17
14Porky's WallHVS 5c 53
15Porky's Wall Right-handf5+ 14
16Piggy's CrackVS 4c *187
17The SteepleHVS 5a 70
18Clotted CreamVS 4c 33
 Electric Circus 
20Trinity Crack
-
E1 4c 3
21NutshrinkerE3 6a **4
22The AreteE3 5b *45
23Siege TacticsE4 6b **3
24UltimatumE3 6a **14
25Mather CrackE2 5b **222
26GruntiesE3 6a *2
27Electric CircusE3 5c ***158
28Short CircuitE4 6a 20
29Oak Tree WallE3 5c 8
30Worthy of Some StrainE3 6b  
31Grim Reaper Traversef6A+ **50
32Grim Reaper Directf7A+ *4
33The Grim ReaperE5 6b *5
34TransformationHVS 4c 26
35Sandy Aretef6A+ *18
36SandboxE3 5b 2
37Mortf7C+ *1
38Stonewall Crack
-
HVS 5a 31
 Viaduct Wall 
40The PoiseE2 5c *10
41ConfusionVS 4b 18
83Bionics Traversef7A+ **16
84The Full TraverseV6 *22
85The Full Traverse with Bionics TraverseV7 1
 The Viaduct Sport Climbs 
 The Main Viaduct Support 
88The Thin End of the Hedge6a *79
89This is Not Cheedale6b *28
90The Price of Admission6a+ 86
91Revenge Of The Grit Bolting Antichrist6b 10
92Welcome To Portland (Oregon)6c 51
93Evolution or Outrage?7a *22
94The Girlfriend6b+ 30
95Have You Ever Been Up Everest, Mister?6c 22
96The Beginning of the End6a 90
 The Riverside Support 
98Yeah, Whatever6a+ 23
99Come Down This Instant!6b *12
100My Plan For World Domination6b+ *3
 Ejector Wall 
102Nickle 'n Dime
-
E3 5c  
103PumpernickelE3 5c *5
104JengaE1 4c *1
105Ejector
-
HVS 5b  
106Tossers
-
HVS 5b  
107Name and Number
-
E1 5b  
 Other Climbs - see definitive guide or discriptions 
109Big Smegg Sport ClimbE5 6a *1
110Glass CeilingE1 5b *1
111Career TemptationHVS 5a 2
112Dog Bin CrackHVS 5a 2
113HVS 5b, big crack right of Pumpernickel
-
HVS 5b 1
 Other/Eliminate Problems 
115Viaduct wall Eliminate 1V2 9
116Viaduct Wall Eliminate 2V3 6
117Half Tor TraverseV1 *13
118Hallelujuh AreteV5 5
119Hallaleujah CrackV2 *7
120Tectonic TraverseV7 4
121Vegetable Flake VS 4c 4
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond