New Mills Tor is a well-hidden crag, set in a deep gloomy gorge right bang in the centre of New Mills. The cliff is witheringly steep, surprisingly tall for grit and composed of a rather soft and sandy gritstone, not the well-weathered stone you might be used to. These various factors all add up to make the routes here intimidating and pumpy propositions. Although some of the routes are esoteric, the best of the climbs here are very good and the oddness of the setting adds to the whole experience of the place - if you are passing by, call in and sample the unique experience that is New Mills Tor.
The crag is steep enough to stay dry in light rain and the tree canopy in the summer adds to the shelter. The steepest part of the cliff is right under the viaduct, and this stays dry even in monsoon conditions. The walls do face south, so can catch the sun, but they are also shaded by the tree cover and bridge pillars.
There are various quiet streets and pay and display parking options in New Mills. From behind the bus turning circle, a steep path leads down to the left-hand end of the cliff.
The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
Some lower off's have appeared on bionics wall. angus - 21/Nov/14
Could someone give me an idea of where the line 'Worthy of some strain E3/6b goes? Is it left or right of Grim Reaper? MischaHY - 11/Nov/13
On the viaduct pillar? They are in the BMC 'Over The Moors Guidebook' and listed here on UKC under the 'Viaduct Pillar' and 'Riverside Pillar' headings. I have just updated the climbs according to the guidebook. David Kay - 15/Jul/13
Great to see so many climbers out on the viaduct and also bouldering/climbing the rock face - for those that don't know the town there are several pubs, cafes, shops and a Heritage Centre up the steps to the side of the rock face, they are dog, cycle and climber friendly - thanks. visitnewmills - 31/Mar/13
What's the route to the right of Evolution or Outrage? rustaldo - 17/Nov/12
I'm away until the end of the month, but will try and update the rest of the climbs when I get back. David Kay - 04/Aug/12
10 shiny new well bolted lines on the bridge parapet should entice a few more down here. As part of the Torrs Riverside Park, the place is now being looked after by a combination of the town council and the local climbing club - The Mynydd. Normclimber - 03/Sep/11
There are some good routes here, but beware of loose rock and, er, hypodermic needles. Yes, someone dislodged one of these from the top of a route today and it missed his belayer by a few feet. PeteH - 01/May/10
the flake mid way up the orgional route is dangerously loose! hiu068 - 22/Dec/07
Might be worth knowing how to abseil before attending this crag! All in all its a nice little place, dry mostly when everywhere else is wet, just keep an eye on the baggage! Im convinced the older folk where eyeing up my trainers at the bottom of the climb! However its a nice place, gear is pretty sparce at the top. Give it a go! Jimbo MSider - 23/Feb/07