Climbs 8
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 65m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

The rock is a fine grained igneous intrusion of dolerite which has been quarried on it's north side and left to nature.

The first two climbs face north and can be accessed by abseiling from the top of the crag or by ascending a crevice at the east end and then descending rightwards to the quarry floor. The north face is sometimes ivy clad but it is easily removed (clean 2015).

The third climb is on the broken south face.

Micro wires and cams are very useful.

Approach notes

Park up on the coast road 3km E of Noss Mayo/Newton Ferrers at a footpath giving access to the coastpath. Follow this E for 1km to the rock which is an obvious landmark.

The bouldering lies 400m WSW of St Anchorites on a rocky outcrop on a ridge (SX 588 471). Start descending the west side of the ridge on a large track and then traverse the cliff edge eastward before heading back uphill to the landward block.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Boulder at SX 588 471
2 Hermit Arete V7 6c *  
3 Hermit Arete Sit Start V8 6c **  
Climb name Grade
  North Face
5 Don't Mess with Tess E2 5b 2
6 Far from the Madding Crowd HVS 4c * 2
7 Boozers' Buttress VS 4c 1
Climb name Grade
8 Desperate Remedies HVS 5a 2
  South Face
10 Jude the Obscure HVS 5a 2
11 The Well-Beloved HS 4b 1

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