Climbs 61
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 315m a.s.l
Faces E

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Samuel James-Louwerse at the top of Mitre Crack (VS) at Aldery Cliff. © Alan James

Crag features

A popular crag, unique for its slabby nature in a pleasant, sheltered location. Most climbs are VS/HVS on good, sometimes polished rock, up to 35m high. The classic lines are Clothesline (S), Carmen Jones (VS 4b), Broken Toe (Vs 4c), The Arete (HVS 5a) and Surface Plate (HVS 5a). A good picnic spot.

After excessive 'gardening' there are now no abseil points (or trees) on many of the routes. The unsuitable/badly installed bolts that replaced them have been removed. For may of the routes the top-outs are somewhat difficult. You may have to drop a rope from the top to form an anchor/abseil point, or leave gear in the natural belay places. Enjoy.

Update 5 February 2018.  Dropped by yesterday to find new post and rail fencing installed down the side of the decent path (much better than the previous barbed wire) (BMC?).  Also the wire cable on the descent has been replaced by a much more sensible knotted rope, courtesy of Brid from Buxton MC - good work! 

 

Approach notes

From Buxton head SE to Earl Sterndale via the A515/B5053. The crag is on the right-hand side of the road leading from Earl Sterndale to Crowdicote. Parking is available at the crag.
Managed by the BMC.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
More Guidebooks:
On Peak Rock (2003)
Northern Limestone Route Database (2001)

Out of print:
Now the tree has gone from the top of Surface plate how the **** are you ment to get down? I saw one person down climb and wondered what he was doing, so I climbed up but there is no way down. Fortunately I am a fairly competent climber and quested my way to the top on very dirty and loos ground.
GouldHarry - 24/Apr/18
A lot of work has been done by a local hero who has opened up a lot of the crag and removed the mass of nettles so the faces further round can be accessed, work is still on-going but is still 1000x better than before
rtdennison - 09/Apr/17
There has been a cleanup (maybe a still continuing cleanup?) with loose rock and trees removed from several areas - thanks whoever did it. Some rock is still a bit dirty and some of the ground around the routes is a bit unstable but I'm sure all will settle down
roger whetton - 16/May/16
there has been a recent large rockfall in the corner to the right of Carmen/Carmen jones
PeteWilson - 05/Sep/13
The recently cleaned slabs on the right hand side contain 3 routes, all done by Dave Williams. Unfortunately the large block above and to the right of them is reported to be dangerously loose. Therefor DO NOT CLIMB THESE ROUTES, at least for the time being
Chris the Tall - 01/Dec/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Hand Walls
2 Sword and Stone
-
E2 5b  
3 The High Crusade
-
E2 5c  
4 Hidden Corner
-
HS 4a 2
5 Therianthropic
-
HVS 5a 1
6 Jackorner VS 4c 15
7 Cooper's Peg Route E2 6a * 18
8 Lethanol
-
HVS 5a  
9 November Wall E2 5b * 35
10 Timber
-
HS 4a 2
11 Rent a Ghost
-
S 1
12 The Clone of Jeremiah
-
VS 4c 1
13 Nazi Baby
-
S  
  The Mitre Area
15 The Arete E1 5a ** 271
16 Mitre Crack VS 4c ** 491
17 Chance in a Marillion E3 6a 39
18 The Cardinal VS 4c ** 331
19 The Actress HVS 5b 5
20 The Actress/The Bishop HVS 5b * 86
21 The Bishop HVS 5b ** 4
22 God Loves a Trier E2 5b * 1
Climb name Grade
23 Bishops Rib E2 5c 1
24 Arch Bishop E2 5b * 6
25 Sycamore Crack HS 4b 10
26 Jeremy's Jungular Jaunt
-
S 2
27 Jackdaw Gully
-
HVD 5
28 Carmen Jones VS 4c 37
29 Carmen VS 4c * 219
30 Deceptor
-
VS 4c 5
31 Carmen Mirander E1 5b 1
32 Carmen Sutra VS 4c 6
33 Nitride crack MVS 3
34 Sans Nom
-
VS 4b 6
35 Lizzie HVS 5a 1
36 Central Gully
-
VD 9
37 Back Country Rock HVS 5a 1
  Ash Tree Area
39 Ash Tree Arete
-
HVD 11
40 Anti-Digestant HVS 5a 89
41 Ash Tree Slab HS 4a * 400
42 The Nonsense Man Start HS 5a * 19
43 Nettlerash HS 4a * 620
44 Broken Toe HVS 4c * 328
Climb name Grade
45 Venom
-
HVS 5b 3
46 Formic
-
VS 4c 1
47 Yukio
-
VS 4c 4
48 Central Arete HVD 147
49 Central Arete Direct S 4b 31
50 Janbaloo HVS 5b * 140
51 Janbaloo Direct Finish E1 5b 38
52 Surface Plate HVS 5a * 406
53 Clothesline S 4a * 413
54 The Fly HVS 5a 48
55 The Spider VS 4c 94
  Right Hand Walls
57 Burst HVS 4c 26
58 The Bender HVS 5a * 41
59 Terrace Wall VS 4b 65
60 A Question of Palance VS 4b 9
61 Right Arete VS 4b 23
62 Hard Labour E2 5c 13
63 A Pig in the Middle E3 5c 5
64 Gardeners World HVS 5a 2
65 Test Climb E1 5a  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Volunteer to moderate Aldery Cliff
We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]