Climbs 59
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 315m a.s.l
Faces E

Mike on The Arete at Aldery Cliff © Rob L

Crag features

A popular crag, unique for its slabby nature in a pleasant, shltered location. Most climbs are VS/HVS on good, sometimes polished rock, up to 35m high. The classic lines are Clothesline (S), Carmen Jones (VS 4b), Broken Toe (Vs 4c), The Arete (HVS 5a) and Surface Plate (HVS 5a). A good picnic spot.

Approach notes

From Buxton head SE to Earl Sterndale via the A515/B5053. The crag is on the right-hand side of the road leading from Earl Sterndale to Crowdicote. Parking is available at the crag.

Managed by the BMC.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
More Guidebooks:
On Peak Rock (2003)
Northern Limestone Route Database (2001)

Out of print:
A lot of work has been done by a local hero who has opened up a lot of the crag and removed the mass of nettles so the faces further round can be accessed, work is still on-going but is still 1000x better than before
rtdennison - 09/Apr/17
There has been a cleanup (maybe a still continuing cleanup?) with loose rock and trees removed from several areas - thanks whoever did it. Some rock is still a bit dirty and some of the ground around the routes is a bit unstable but I'm sure all will settle down
roger whetton - 16/May/16
there has been a recent large rockfall in the corner to the right of Carmen/Carmen jones
PeteWilson - 05/Sep/13
The recently cleaned slabs on the right hand side contain 3 routes, all done by Dave Williams. Unfortunately the large block above and to the right of them is reported to be dangerously loose. Therefor DO NOT CLIMB THESE ROUTES, at least for the time being
Chris the Tall - 01/Dec/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Sword and Stone
-
E2 5b  
2The High Crusade
-
E2 5c  
3Hidden Corner
-
HS 4a 2
4Therianthropic
-
HVS 5a 1
5JackornerVS 4c 15
6Cooper's Peg RouteE2 6a *17
7November WallE2 5b *34
8Lethanol
-
HVS 5a  
9Timber
-
HS 4a 2
10Rent a Ghost
-
S 1
11The Clone of Jeremiah
-
VS 4c  
12Nazi Baby
-
S  
13The AreteE1 5a **234
14Mitre CrackVS 4c **418
15Chance in a MarillionE3 6a 32
16The CardinalVS 4c **291
17The Actress/The BishopHVS 5b *73
18The Actress *HVS 5b 3
19Arch Bishop *E2 5b *4
20Bishops Rib *
-
E2 5c 1
21Sycamore CrackHS 4b 9
22Jeremy's Jungular Jaunt
-
S 1
23Jackdaw Gully
-
HVD 5
24Carmen JonesVS 4c 28
25CarmenVS 4c *195
26Carmen Sutra
-
VS 4c 6
27Nitride crackMVS 3
28Deceptor
-
VS 4c 4
29Carmen Mirander *E1 5b 1
30Sans Nom
-
VS 4b 6
31Lizzie *HVS 5a  
32Central Gully
-
VD 9
33Black Country Rock
-
HVS 5a  
34Ash Tree Arete
-
HVD 12
35Anti-DigestantHVS 5a 81
36Ash Tree SlabHS 4a *345
37The Nonsense Man StartHS 5a *14
38E2 left of Nettlerash *
-
E2 5b 1
39NettlerashHS 4a *536
40Broken ToeHVS 4c *282
41Formic
-
VS 4c 1
42Venom
-
HVS 5b 3
43Yukio
-
VS 4c 4
44Central AreteHVD 137
45Central Arete DirectS 4b 27
46JanbalooHVS 5b *132
47Janbaloo Direct FinishE1 5b 32
48Surface PlateHVS 5a *359
49ClotheslineS 4a *366
50The FlyHVS 5a 46
51The SpiderVS 4c 88
52BurstHVS 4c 24
53The BenderHVS 5a *38
54Terrace WallVS 4b 54
55A Question of PalanceVS 4b 8
56Right AreteVS 4b 19
57Hard LabourE2 5c 11
58A Pig in the MiddleE3 5c 3
59Gardeners WorldHVS 5a 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall