Altitude 315m a.s.l
Samuel James-Louwerse at the top of Mitre Crack (VS) at Aldery Cliff. © Alan James
A popular crag, unique for its slabby nature in a pleasant, sheltered location. Most climbs are VS/HVS on good, sometimes polished rock, up to 35m high. The classic lines are Clothesline (S), Carmen Jones (VS 4b), Broken Toe (Vs 4c), The Arete (HVS 5a) and Surface Plate (HVS 5a). A good picnic spot.
After excessive 'gardening' there are now no abseil points (or trees) on many of the routes. The unsuitable/badly installed bolts that replaced them have been removed. For may of the routes the top-outs are somewhat difficult. You may have to drop a rope from the top to form an anchor/abseil point, or leave gear in the natural belay places. Enjoy.
Update 5 February 2018. Dropped by yesterday to find new post and rail fencing installed down the side of the decent path (much better than the previous barbed wire) (BMC?). Also the wire cable on the descent has been replaced by a much more sensible knotted rope, courtesy of Brid from Buxton MC - good work!
From Buxton head SE to Earl Sterndale via the A515/B5053. The crag is on the right-hand side of the road leading from Earl Sterndale to Crowdicote. Parking is available at the crag.
Managed by the BMC.
|Now the tree has gone from the top of Surface plate how the **** are you ment to get down? I saw one person down climb and wondered what he was doing, so I climbed up but there is no way down. Fortunately I am a fairly competent climber and quested my way to the top on very dirty and loos ground. |
GouldHarry - 24/Apr/18
|A lot of work has been done by a local hero who has opened up a lot of the crag and removed the mass of nettles so the faces further round can be accessed, work is still on-going but is still 1000x better than before|
rtdennison - 09/Apr/17
|There has been a cleanup (maybe a still continuing cleanup?) with loose rock and trees removed from several areas - thanks whoever did it.
Some rock is still a bit dirty and some of the ground around the routes is a bit unstable but I'm sure all will settle down|
roger whetton - 16/May/16
|there has been a recent large rockfall in the corner to the right of Carmen/Carmen jones|
PeteWilson - 05/Sep/13
|The recently cleaned slabs on the right hand side contain 3 routes, all done by Dave Williams. Unfortunately the large block above and to the right of them is reported to be dangerously loose. Therefor DO NOT CLIMB THESE ROUTES, at least for the time being |
Chris the Tall - 01/Dec/06