UKC

Climbs 59
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 315m a.s.l
Faces E

Mike on The Arete at Aldery Cliff © Rob L

Crag features

A popular crag, unique for its slabby nature in a pleasant, shltered location. Most climbs are VS/HVS on good, sometimes polished rock, up to 35m high. The classic lines are Clothesline (S), Carmen Jones (VS 4b), Broken Toe (Vs 4c), The Arete (HVS 5a) and Surface Plate (HVS 5a). A good picnic spot.

After excessive 'gardening' there are now no abseil points (or trees) on many of the routes. The unsuitable/badly installed bolts that replaced them have been removed. For may of the routes the top-outs are somewhat difficult. You may have to drop a rope from the top to form an anchor/abseil point, or leave gear in the natural belay places. Enjoy.

Approach notes

From Buxton head SE to Earl Sterndale via the A515/B5053. The crag is on the right-hand side of the road leading from Earl Sterndale to Crowdicote. Parking is available at the crag.
Managed by the BMC.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
More Guidebooks:
On Peak Rock (2003)
Northern Limestone Route Database (2001)

Out of print:
A lot of work has been done by a local hero who has opened up a lot of the crag and removed the mass of nettles so the faces further round can be accessed, work is still on-going but is still 1000x better than before
rtdennison - 09/Apr/17
There has been a cleanup (maybe a still continuing cleanup?) with loose rock and trees removed from several areas - thanks whoever did it. Some rock is still a bit dirty and some of the ground around the routes is a bit unstable but I'm sure all will settle down
roger whetton - 16/May/16
there has been a recent large rockfall in the corner to the right of Carmen/Carmen jones
PeteWilson - 05/Sep/13
The recently cleaned slabs on the right hand side contain 3 routes, all done by Dave Williams. Unfortunately the large block above and to the right of them is reported to be dangerously loose. Therefor DO NOT CLIMB THESE ROUTES, at least for the time being
Chris the Tall - 01/Dec/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Hand Walls
2 Sword and Stone
-
E2 5b  
3 The High Crusade
-
E2 5c  
4 Hidden Corner
-
HS 4a 2
5 Therianthropic
-
HVS 5a 1
6 Jackorner VS 4c 15
7 Cooper's Peg Route E2 6a * 17
8 Lethanol
-
HVS 5a  
9 November Wall E2 5b * 34
10 Timber
-
HS 4a 2
11 Rent a Ghost
-
S 1
12 The Clone of Jeremiah
-
VS 4c  
13 Nazi Baby
-
S  
  The Mitre Area
15 The Arete E1 5a ** 231
16 Mitre Crack VS 4c ** 429
17 Chance in a Marillion E3 6a 32
18 The Cardinal VS 4c ** 300
19 The Actress HVS 5b 3
20 The Actress/The Bishop HVS 5b * 72
21 The Bishop HVS 5b ** 1
Climb name Grade
22 Bishops Rib E2 5c 1
23 Arch Bishop E2 5b * 4
24 Sycamore Crack HS 4b 9
25 Jeremy's Jungular Jaunt
-
S 1
26 Jackdaw Gully
-
HVD 5
27 Carmen Jones VS 4c 29
28 Carmen VS 4c * 195
29 Deceptor
-
VS 4c 4
30 Carmen Mirander E1 5b 1
31 Carmen Sutra VS 4c 6
32 Nitride crack MVS 3
33 Sans Nom
-
VS 4b 6
34 Lizzie HVS 5a  
35 Central Gully
-
VD 9
36 Black Country Rock
-
HVS 5a  
  Ash Tree Area
38 Ash Tree Arete
-
HVD 11
39 Anti-Digestant HVS 5a 80
40 Ash Tree Slab HS 4a * 358
41 The Nonsense Man Start HS 5a * 16
42 Nettlerash HS 4a * 554
Climb name Grade
43 Broken Toe HVS 4c * 298
44 Venom
-
HVS 5b 3
45 Formic
-
VS 4c 1
46 Yukio
-
VS 4c 4
47 Central Arete HVD 142
48 Central Arete Direct S 4b 28
49 Janbaloo HVS 5b * 131
50 Janbaloo Direct Finish E1 5b 32
51 Surface Plate HVS 5a * 363
52 Clothesline S 4a * 377
53 The Fly HVS 5a 46
54 The Spider VS 4c 89
  Right Hand Walls
56 Burst HVS 4c 26
57 The Bender HVS 5a * 37
58 Terrace Wall VS 4b 57
59 A Question of Palance VS 4b 8
60 Right Arete VS 4b 19
61 Hard Labour E2 5c 13
62 A Pig in the Middle E3 5c 3
63 Gardeners World HVS 5a 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Jim Malo