Climbs ?
Rocktype Limestone

Charlie Birkett on the low traverse, Sidmouth © dmaldonado

Crag features

A magnificent sweep of limestone with top-rope problems, traversing and bouldering up to French 8a!

There is a fantastic bit of limestone blockwork, good for traversing, the finest is a round trip startin on the RH side of the limestone blockwork and traversing to the first alcove-like cave in the sandstone, come back out of the cave via a lower-level traverse before regaining the upper weakness leading back the limestone wall, which is reversed to its RH side (French 8a).

Another feature to look out for is an unlikely-looking mantelshelf midway along the sandstone which extends LWs from the alcove-like cave. It;s been done once, but has rebuffed all attempts at a repeat; something like B3 on the Jhon Gill bouldering scale. [ie damn hard - UKC Ed]

Toprope problems on the limestone blockwork wall up to 6c/7a. Most of the climbing is with smallish crimps and a couple of 1,2 and 3 finger jams. Good luck [monster jake 11/06]

Approach notes

The extensive seawall west of the seafront.

its not a joke chap, but yeh I see the point on the map is in the sea ha ha. The crag is on the path that leads off the west end of the prom, follow the path along towards the red sandstone cliff, as you get to the cliff, just round the corner is the man made limestone blockwork (very old), its my local training wall and as soon as you can work out the routes its quite good. I have found three routes up it and a good traverce right to left
monster jake - 29/Jul/09
This must be a joke, I was in Sidmouth today and I couldn't find the bloody thing! Is the location map right? NGR is exactly in the sea! Has anyone climbed there?
raku - 07/Sep/08
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