UKC

Climbs 112
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 280m a.s.l
Faces SW

Craig Bailey crimping hard on Dragon's Route (E3 5c*), Hobson Moor Quarry. © Architectonic

Crag features

A pleasant (for a quarry!) climbing ground with easy access and good 'crack' with the locals. Mostly good rock on the right side of vertical! Routes mainly VS and above approx 15 - 20m long. Some of the harder routes are equipped with pegs as sport routes. Best climbs are Crew's Route (VS 4c), Parker's Eliminate (HVS 5a), Tighe's Arete (E1 5a), Great Expectations (E3 6a), Fingertip Control and Hobson's Choice (both E5 6b).

The low level traverse is a classic.

Approach notes

From the A6018 Mottram to Stalybridge road, take the minor road (at SJ 985967) opposite a set of new build flats for 500m keeping left at any junction. Park next to the quarry.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
There has been a recent and massive clean up of the place with many previously unclimbable routes now in good condition. Most of this work has been done by the marvellous Ben Tetler. Come along and climb here, you won't regret it.
Frank the Husky - 17/May/16
There must have been a bit of a clean up since the last comment as there isn't much fly tipped rubbish - still a fair load of small pieces of a glass though - a shame 'cus puts me off bringing my toddler here.
noteviljoe - 11/Jul/13
Saw some guys shooting air guns here, some ledges covered in smashed glass bottles. Lots of fly tipped rubbish, crag is in dire need of a cleanup.
James Oakes - 21/May/13
Clean up? I was very disappointed to see smashed glass EVERYWHERE!!! Also seems to be frequented by campers bent on leaving a friggin mess - a real shame cos the bouldering is quite good.
jules699 - 15/Sep/12
Now looking better after the recent cleanup!
Paul Evans - 07/May/12
adding to craigh comment - every time ive been here ive got into a routine of going to top of routes after seeing the chavs and 9 out of 10 times the krabs are unscrewed and knots loosened, pity tasers arnt legal for climbers lol. Always check gear if you see chavs hope no1 has accidents due to insensitive idiots
philip1984 - 26/Oct/11
Having been here only 3 times over 5 years the climbing remains nice, but the atmosphere has worsened due to the amount of litter and especially broken glass covering most of the ground. The worst is that bottles are obviusly thrown at the walls, so beware glass lodged in or on holds.
steveshaking - 08/Sep/10
nice place, but very busy with outdoor groups top roping and abseiling on the few climbs around VS
adam06 - 30/Oct/09
Cosy little crag with some great routes. Has a tendency to seep after rain, especially the wall above the main bouldering traverse.
SecretSquirrel - 25/Aug/08
Great venue for the HS to Extreme climber. Not much for beginners. Well sheltered most of the time and a real sun trap. Good stake belays and very rarely crowded.
JULIAN.LANE@ORACLE.COM - 03/Apr/07
It is not uncommon for gear to go walk about here. This has happened to a few people I know especially when they have taken groups and set up top ropes. Local kids have taken rigging ropes, crabs and even rucksacks being used as rope protectors. Leave nothing valuble at the top especially if kids are lurking and check rigging frequently.
craig h - 30/Apr/04
The low level traverse is great, and dam hard as well. Some other first rate bouldering here as well. Quite a few bats during the summer evenings devouring the midges as well, viva-la-bat ! Nice quarry, nice setting.
Rory - 18/May/03
The petrol station has now closed, there is a pub opposite as well, think it's the wagon and horses but can check this iain johnson
Iain Johnson - 09/May/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Back Wall
2 Eastern Touch E4 6a * 7
3 Apres Midi E2 5c * 9
4 Gardener's World E4 6b * 6
5 Wanna Buy a Bolt Kit? E4 6b 4
6 Heatwave E2 5c * 4
7 Hanging Slab E2 5b ** 125
8 Aufheben's Wall E5 6b * 1
9 Crock's Climb E1 5b * 31
10 The Heat is On E4 6b * 1
11 Fingertip Control E5 6b ** 1
12 Gable End E5 6a ** 15
13 Hobson's Choice E5 6b ** 11
14 Great Expectations E3 5c ** 41
15 Monsoon E1 5b 13
16 Wit on the Stairs E3 6a 1
17 Wotawall E2 5b 1
18 Worm's Turn E4 6c 1
19 Raindrop E4 6a * 14
20 The Scythe E2 5c * 56
21 Sunshine Super Glue E3 6a * 25
22 Bring me Sunshine E1 5b * 152
  Main Wall
24 Epitaph Corner HS 4b * 680
25 Sunshine Superman E2 5b * 190
26 Parker's Eliminate HVS 5a *** 881
27 Fade Away E2 5c 7
28 Gideon HVS 5a ** 480
29 Basic Training E6 7a * 2
30 Gideonite HVS 5a * 194
31 Crew's Route VS 4c *** 1001
32 Peak Arete E1 5a * 137
33 Steve's Dilemma E2 6a 22
34 RS HVS 5c 6
35 Evening Ridge S 4a 164
36 Midnight Variation HS 4a 163
  Dragon's Wall
38 Dragon's Route E2 5c * 181
Climb name Grade
39 What To Do On A Wet Sunday Afternoon E1 5b * 17
40 Scale the Dragon E4 6a ** 52
41 The Hobsonian E6 6c 1
42 Drizzle E2 6a ** 132
43 Drought E4 6a * 36
44 Foghorn Groove VS 4c * 531
45 Wind Instrument E1 5b 80
46 The Harp HS 4b * 831
47 Blind Tiger HVS 5a 6
48 Boys Will Be Boys HS 4b 44
49 Dark Knight HS 4a 21
50 Pocket Wall VD * 627
51 Pocket Groove VD 41
52 Tighe's Arete E1 5a ** 525
53 Ledge Way HS 4b 183
54 Grain of Sand VS 5a 117
55 Amphitheatre Climb VD 258
56 Heather Corner VD 204
57 End Wall HVS 5c 13
58 The Girdle Traverse of Hobson Moor E4 6a * 1
  Boulder Problems
60 House on the Hill f7B * 5
61 House on the Hill Left-hand f7A 13
62 Not That Way f6C * 4
63 This Way f7A ** 4
64 Back Wall Traverse f6B *** 171
65 One Arm Bone Crusher f5+ * 5
66 The Locals Are Watching You f6B 13
67 The local eliminate f6B+ * 3
68 Fingertip Control start V4 6b ** 9
69 Fingertip Control right hand start V5 6b 4
70 Sunshine Traverse f6A+ * 17
71 Basic Traverse f6A+ * 8
72 Sunshine V2 5c * 23
73 Basic Training Start f7B+ * 5
74 Basic Training start (easy version - with crack) V4 6a 1
75 Basic Thumb Traverse V3 * 35
76 Steve Ring Home Start f6B 38
Climb name Grade
77 Pillar Face f7A * 22
78 Pillar Arete f5 * 10
79 Slot to Slot V1 * 44
80 Block Arete V0 5a 46
81 Dragon's Slab f5 40
82 Right Wall Traverse V2 * 65
83 Percy 97 f6A+ ** 155
84 Percy 97 Eliminate f7C 5
85 Percy 97 Dyno V6 23
86 Percy's Crack f4 35
87 Percy's Crack Dyno f6C 7
88 Double Dyno f6A * 19
89 Percy Left-hand f5+ * 87
90 Percy Right-hand f4+ * 123
91 Percy Right Foot f6B 9
92 Dirty Corner V0- 60
93 Triangle Left f6A+ ** 60
94 Triangle f6B ** 106
95 Triangle Eliminate f7A 3
96 Triangle Arete f5+ * 62
97 Triangle Arete Eliminate f6C 9
98 Easy Crack f3 118
99 Slippery Groove f3+ 136
100 Edgy Slab f3 155
101 Slab Arete V0- 80
102 High Wall f4 67
103 High Arete f5+ 34
104 Low-level Traverse V5 6a *** 6
105 Green Wall f3 * 53
106 Green Ramp f4 65
107 Rib f5 * 69
108 The Seam f5 75
109 Flakes f5 79
110 Grain of Sand start V0 5
111 Craig's Dyno f6C+ * 1
112 Pillar Face sit f7A+ *  
113 Steve's Dilemma Ledge Wall f6B+  
114 Edgy Slab Low Traverse f6A+ ** 5
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Nick1812P