UKC

Climbs 172
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 380m a.s.l
Faces SW

Sam Whittaker on Scoop de Grace, E5 7a/ highball font 7c, Running Hill Pits © Adam Long

Crag features

A collection of small (6 - 16m high) quarries in a high moorland setting offering good evening climbing. Well worth a visit. A mixture of fine steep cracks and 'blank' slabs, above grassy landings on good rock. Green and wet early in the year. Best routes are Plum Line (VS 4c), Weaver's Wall (E3 5b), Harvest Moon/Spannaer Wall (E3 6b) and Calamity Crack (E4 6a).

Approach notes

From Uppermill on the A670 (SE 998058) head NE along minor road to limited parking at 'crossroads' (SE 012067). Follow track ahead to the first quarry in 20 mins. Careful with dogs, please keep on lead.

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Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Moorland Gritstone - Chew Valley (1988)

Out of print:
I went there today and the 8th and 7th quarry's lie behind a gate signed PRIVATE LAND. I accessed the 8th via Western Grit description i.e. over the fence at the (2nd) style so I'd unknowingly trespassed! Further to this: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/viewcrag.aspx?id=1004
jules699 - 07/May/13
hi matthew none of my friends have had any issues either but according to a friend the BMC have said its out of bounds cause of people camping and leaving litter about. They're trying to get an access officer to pursuade the farmer to let climbers continue using the quarrys. If i hear anything else ill post it up on here :).
ClimbingMonkee - 18/Apr/12
@climbingmonkee i've been climbing here for a couple of years ans i've never had any access issues or seen any landowners. has anyone else had any issues here?
Matthew reid - 17/Apr/12
i went up today for a few hours of climbing. I had just finished setting up when along came a farmer and gave me a load of grief for apparently tresspassing. I decided to pack up my gear before it went further just thought id warn you all its NOT worth the trouble!!!
ClimbingMonkee - 13/Apr/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  First Quarry
2 Spider Crack HVS 5c  
3 Nora Batty E1 6a * 6
4 Compo's Advance f6B+ * 2
5 Acarpous E2 5b 1
6 Maquis E1 5b * 25
7 Flush Pipe E1 5c 2
8 Gull-wing E2 5c * 8
9 Mimosa E2 5c 11
10 Have a little Hope. E5 6b/c * 3
11 Calamity Crack E4 6a *** 20
12 Gargantua E1 5b ** 13
13 Godzilla E3 6a  
14 Kaptain Klepton E1 5c *  
15 Mickey Thin E1 5b ** 24
16 It Only Takes Two to Tango E2 5b * 3
17 Tin Man E4 6b * 1
18 Flue Pipe E1 5c  
  Second (Spanner) Quarry
20 Tighten Up Yer Nuts E4 6a * 7
21 Iguanodon E5 6b ** 6
22 The Nunkeys Ningers Start f7B * 1
23 Velociraptor VS 5a * 3
24 Folies Bergeres HS 4b 47
25 Lolita HS 4b 47
26 Harvest Moon E4 6b ** 10
27 The Connection E4 6b ** 9
28 Spanner Wall E2 5c *** 90
29 Spanner Eyes E4 6c * 1
30 Dead Dog Crack HS 4b * 108
31 Cave Crack VS 4b * 45
32 Midsummer S 4a 39
33 Hazy Groove VD 30
34 The Cracks S 4a 62
35 Breakdown HVS 5b 41
36 Leave My Nuts alone
-
HVS 5a 2
37 Yorick's Crack E6 6c ** 1
38 Adrenaline Run E6 6a 1
39 Surgical Spirit E6 6b 1
40 Overhanging Chimney VS 4c 2
41 Sagittarius Flake E5 6b ** 25
42 Scoop de Grace E5 7a *** 2
43 Phaestus E4 5c ** 17
44 Windbreaker E2 5b ** 57
45 Cochybondhu E2 5c * 35
46 Kneepad HVS 5b 1
47 Elfin Edge f4+ 10
48 Crosstie VS 5a 24
49 The Mechanic E2 5c 1
50 Pipe Spanner E1 5c * 20
51 Pipe Inspector E3 5c 5
52 Groove-V Baby VS 4c * 54
53 Dusty Arete D * 43
54 Midgebite Express E2 6a  
55 Sardonicus
-
HVS 5b  
56 William the Conkerer E1 5b  
57 Paradise Crack HS 4b 4
58 Cameo VS 4c 7
59 Riddler HVS 5a * 7
60 Pantagruel HVS 5a * 48
Climb name Grade
61 Mangled Digit E3 6a *** 63
62 Plumb Line VS 4c *** 267
63 Passport to the Pits E5 6b 1
64 Grot Groove VD 6
65 Liquor, Loose Women and Double Cross E5 6c ** 2
66 Sodom E1 5c * 101
67 Gomorrah E1 5b ** 145
68 Breakin' for a Bogey E6 6c *  
69 Cosmic Enforcer E2 5c * 5
70 Unctuous S 4c 47
  Third Quarry
72 Parallel Cracks HVD 10
73 The Arete HD 11
74 Fingers E2 5b  
75 Chrissy
-
VD 7
76 Stella Night's Dream (aka Pygmy ArĂȘte) E1 5a * 1
77 Overhanging Crack
-
E1 5b  
78 Jammer MVS 4b 4
79 The Wall
-
VD 5
  Fourth (Back) Quarry
81 Left Back
-
VS 4c 2
82 Talk Back
-
VS 4c 1
83 Fall Back
-
E1 5b *  
84 Crack Back
-
HVS 5b  
85 English Wipeout
-
E3 5b 2
86 String
-
VS 4b 1
87 The Bow
-
VS 4c 1
88 Combo
-
VS 5a 1
89 Gnome Slabbe
-
MVS 5a 1
90 Alas Poor Yorick
-
VS 5a 1
91 Development
-
E1 5b 1
92 Rain Stopped Play
-
VS 4c 4
93 Presence
-
E1 6a * 2
94 Yawnsville
-
HVS 5c  
95 Diagonal Agony
-
E2 6b  
96 Crimson Copulation
-
E2 6a *  
97 For a Few Daggers More
-
E2 6a * 2
  Fifth Quarry
99 Swing-up HS 4b 14
100 Yarn Spinner E4 6c 4
101 Weaver's Wall E3 5b ** 65
102 Weaver's Crack HS 4b * 54
103 Norah Batty S 4a 21
104 The Virgin VD 35
105 Cool Fool VS 4c 34
106 Kiss My Arm VS 4c 2
107 Hardy
-
MVS 4c  
108 Flake Crack
-
VS 4c 6
109 Flaky
-
HS 4b 9
110 Get Rhythm Direct Start f7A+ * 2
111 Get Rhythm E5 6b * 3
112 Grotty Crack
-
E1 5c 1
  Sixth (Pot Hole) Quarry
114 Reachy VS 5b 19
115 Bingo Bango E1 5b * 12
116 Intro Wall HS 4b * 82
117 Summary HVS 5b 31
118 Seconds VS 4c 23
119 Matthew's Crack V2 5c 6
120 Tower Chimney HVS 5a * 4
Climb name Grade
121 Central Tower
-
E1 5a 2
122 P.C.1
-
MVS 4c  
123 Parallax E3 6a 2
124 Sticky Fingers E1 5b 1
125 Widfa HVS 5a 2
126 Sunstroke Groove
-
f6A+ 2
127 Sunstroke f5 * 15
128 Cosmo Smallpiece f6A+ * 6
129 Puffin HS 4b 13
130 Razorbill f6A 4
131 Delicate Wall HS 5a 15
132 White Honkey VS 5a 5
133 Pocket Watch f6B 3
134 The Corner VS 4c 2
135 The Jolly Green Giant E1 5c * 1
  Seventh Quarry
137 Little Wall
-
HVD 2
138 Sequa
-
HVD 2
139 Quase
-
M 1
140 Green Wall
-
VS 4c 1
141 Outswing
-
HS 1
142 Topspin
-
HS 4b 1
143 Inswing
-
HS 4b 1
144 Hipuri
-
VS 4c 1
145 Ruhipi
-
HVS 5b 1
146 Life Begins At Forty
-
E2 5b  
147 Iphiur
-
HVS 4c  
148 Corner Climb
-
S 1
149 Drop Out
-
HVS 5a  
150 Square Corner
-
HS 1
151 Cornflake
-
VD 2
152 Blue Riband
-
VS 5a  
153 Doria
-
E2 5c  
154 Lydia
-
E1 5b *  
155 Wile
-
S 1
156 Twin trip
-
VS 4c 1
157 Night
-
VS 4b 1
158 Shift
-
VS 4c  
  Eighth Quarry
160 Firefly HVS 6a * 13
161 Duckdoo S 4a 43
162 Axminister HS 4c 16
163 A Fist Full of Daggers E2 6b * 11
164 Deliver Us From Evil E1 5c * 17
165 Black Watch HVS 5b 15
166 Talliot HVS 5b * 8
167 Eye-catcher HVS 5b 2
168 Repetition E1 5c  
169 Fall Guy E1 5c  
170 Chew Grit VS 4b 3
171 A Day Too Late f5+ * 1
172 The Groove f7A+ * 1
173 Legacy f4 4
174 Chalkie f4 27
175 Tomintool f5 24
176 Auchtermuchty f5  
177 Tominfourl f5+ 5c 6
178 Wind Chill E1 6a  
179 Bulge Buddy V2 1
180 Pit Racer V4 1

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