Climbs 24
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces E

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Moving round the crux © BelayBunney

Crag features

Trad routes info | DWS routes info

A friendly E to NE facing wall which is well worth a visit, both for the mini-trad routes and/or the DWS.  It has some excellent quality limestone but is best avoided if ther is a cold easterly wind and/or if a heavy swell is running.  For the trad., it is largely non-tidal, but the right hand routes need a lower tide to access. For the DWS, it is best to arrive between 2 hours either side of high tide .   

For the trad routes it is essential to pre-place a length of static rope down to the top of the rock face to belay on.  The rope can then be used to either abseil to the base again or to pull/scramble out.  The bracken on the cliff edge  grows rampantly each year and benevolent local climbers are needed to clear 'avenues' down from the two main belay trees (the moderator is on the case, summer 2017...).    

Approach notes

If approaching from Babbacombe, drive past The Range and then take the next turning on the L for Ansteys Cove. Follow this road a short distance to the Pay and Display Car Park on the R. Either park here or, to save money, continue along the lane and turn right to reach some on-street parking near Kent's Cavern.  From the P&D car park area, follow the 'Bishop's Walk' coastal footpath eastwards, signposted to Hope's Nose. 260 m past a prominent concrete shelter a track branches off leftwards (not to be mistaken with another track with wooden steps just before). Follow the path down to the cliff top, bear right around the low headland and continue south until an obvious steep descent path to the foreshore is reached, complete with in-situ string. Alternatively follow the first 2300ft of Morning Town Ride!

Early September, 2015: the final bit of path from the headland itself to the down climb was very overgrown. Long trousers (or even better, a pair of garden shears) advisable.
andy_pemberton - 07/Sep/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Dolerite Wall DWS
2 Triumph Dolerite 6b * 3
3 Dolerite Sprint 6c+ ** 4
  South End DWS
5 The Mouthbreather 6c * 2
  Central area trad.
7 Suspect Devices E2 5c 1
8 Suspect Devices - Variation finish E1 5c 1
9 Primitive VS 4c  
10 Antiques Roadshow S 4a * 3
Climb name Grade
11 See Emily Play HVS 5a * 4
12 Lucy Lastic E1 5b 1
13 Big Red Rock Eater VS 4b * 1
14 Sing Harpy
E2 5b 2
15 Gormless E3 5c 1
16 Homo brittanicus E3 c ** 1
17 Help the Aged E2 5b 1
18 Spacehopper E2 5c * 2
19 Zit Alors
E2 5c 2
Climb name Grade
  North end DWS
21 Variation: I Sight 6c  
22 Blind Lead the Blind 7a+ *  
23 Bazuka 6a+ ** 15
24 Veruca 7a *** 4
25 Solid Emulsion XS 5c 3
26 Squished in 6a 3
27 5a Right arete none 5a 4
28 Morning Town Ride HVS 5b 5

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