Climbs 23
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces E

Moving round the crux © BelayBunney

Crag features

Trad routes info | DWS routes info

A friendly E to NE facing wall which is well worth a visit, both for the mini-trad routes and/or the DWS.  It has some excellent quality limestone. It is largely non-tidal, but the right hand trad routes need a lower tide to access.  It is best to arrive between 2 hours either side of high tide for the DWS.  It is best avoided if a heavy swell is running.  From left to right, the main face comprises an overhung bay below a prow, a large central groove and a cave at the right hand end. The routes are described from left to right.  For the trad routes it is advisable to pre-place a length of static rope down to the top of the rock face to belay on.  The rope can then be used to either abseil to the base again or to scramble out.   

Approach notes

If approaching from Babbacombe, drive past The Range and then take the next turning on the L for Ansteys Cove. Follow this road a short distance to the Pay and Display Car Park on the R. Either park here or, to save money, continue along the lane and turn right to reach some on-street parking near Kent's Cavern.  From the P&D car park area, follow the 'Bishop's Walk' coastal footpath eastwards, signposted to Hope's Nose. 260 m past a prominent concrete shelter a track branches off leftwards (not to be mistaken with another track with wooden steps just before). Follow the path down to the cliff top, bear right around the low headland and continue south until an obvious steep descent path to the foreshore is reached, complete with in-situ string. Alternatively follow the first 2300ft of Morning Town Ride!

Early September, 2015: the final bit of path from the headland itself to the down climb was very overgrown. Long trousers (or even better, a pair of garden shears) advisable.
andy_pemberton - 07/Sep/15
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Dolerite Wall DWS
2 Triumph Dolerite 6b * 1
3 Dolerite Sprint 6c+ ** 1
  South End DWS
5 The Mouthbreather 6c * 1
  Central area trad.
7 Suspect Devices E2 5c 1
8 Suspect Devices - Variation finish E1 5c 1
9 Antiques Roadshow S 4a * 1
10 See Emily Play HVS 5a * 3
11 Lucy Lastic E1 5b 1
12 Big Red Rock Eater VS 4b 1
13 Sing Harpy
-
E2 5b 2
14 Gormless E3 5c 1
15 Homo brittanicus E3 c ** 1
16 Help the Aged E2 5b 1
17 Spacehopper
-
E2 5c * 2
18 Zit Alors
-
E2 5c 2
  North end DWS
20 Variation: I Sight 6c  
21 Blind Lead the Blind 7a+ *  
22 Bazuka 6a+ ** 10
23 Veruca 7a *** 2
24 Solid Emulsion XS 5c 1
25 Squished in 6a 1
26 5a Right arete none 5a 1
27 Morning Town Ride HVS 5b 5

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer simon wooster