Climbs 28
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 96m a.s.l
Faces NE

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brixton climber in south sandstone © brixton climber

Crag features

Two main buttresses separated by a gully, each flanked by a smaller buttress. Up to 8m high.

Approach notes

On private land next to the drive leading to Penns in the Rocks - climbing BANNED as crag is in an SSSI. See BMC notes for more info.

Access Banned

These rocks comprise three separate outcrops, of which two – Jockey’s Wood Rocks and Penns House Rocks – have recorded routes. The other outcrop, Rocks Wood, is low and of lesser interest to the climber (see Other Outcrops). The outcrops lie within an SSSI, which has been designated because the ‘sandrock’ is a nationally rare habitat that supports a rich community of ferns and bryophytes (mosses and liverworts) including many ‘Atlantic’ species, which are uncommon in South-East England. All the outcrops are on private land in the grounds of Penns in the Rocks, and following advice from English Nature, climbing is not allowed.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Leg
2 Mr Brownstone none 5c  
3 It's So Easy none 3a  
4 Out Ta Get Me none 4c  
  Left Cheek
6 Skull Cap none 4c  
7 The Walrus none 6a  
8 In Bloom none 6a  
9 The Ice Cream Garden none 5c  
10 Winch Me Up Scottie none 6a  
11 Rodomontade none 5b 1
Climb name Grade
12 Delusions of Grandeur none 6a *  
13 Identity Crisis none 6b *  
14 Dying for a Tomtit none 5b * 1
15 Clenched Buttocks none 5c *  
  Right Cheek
17 Jockey Shorts none 5b  
18 Brief Encounter none 5b  
19 Why Fronts? none 5c  
20 Huntsmans' Wall none 5c ** 1
21 Jockey's Wall none 5b ** 4
22 The Obvious Challenge none 6a **  
Climb name Grade
23 Andy the Bearded One none 5b 1
24 Woodpecker Crack none 5b * 3
25 Tartan Custard none 5c 3
26 Pie an' Ear-ring none 5c *** 3
27 The Last of the Pie an' Ears none 6a  
28 New Arrival none 5c  
29 Panty Girdle none 5a * 1
30 Playtex Girdle none 5c **  
  Right Leg
32 Ledge Climb none 3a 2
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