Climbs 64
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

James working 'Larger Than Life' a long traverse project down at Ladye Bay, Clevedon. © Beastly Squirrel

Crag features

Discontinous line of low cliffs with bouldering and quite a few sports routes.

The rock is a young limestone, much like Portland.

Quite a few of the routes have hard starts and hard finishes with soft climbing in the middle.

Helmets may be a good idea as we had quite a few bits fall off when we were there!

It is tidal - exiting at high tide could be soggy..

Bolted with staples - they look ok and have held falls!

Bouldering has seen a lot of development recently but James Squire, Rob Stanfield and Jack Bradbrook. Online guide here: http://www.beastlysquirrelblog.com/#/ladye-bay/4569514566

Approach notes

The access notes in the Avon Guide are outstanding. Just follow them to the letter and you can't go wrong.

Guidebooks

a word of warning to anyone who isn't keen on creepy-crawlies. Some of the pockets hold clusters of inch long sea woodlouse things, and they drop out on you. I had to spend 20 mins with a stick and a torch, dangling on our rope and extracting them from dark cracks before the rest of the party would deign to go near the routes!
hms - 01/Sep/13
There appears to be roughly two new lines of bolts between "Stick Insect" and "Sloped beyond Imagination". Does anyone have any information on these?
Tom Brierley Gore - 20/Jun/13
FREE ONLINE BOULDERING GUIDE HERE: http://www.beastlysquirrelblog.com/#/ladye-bay/4569514566
Beastly Squirrel - 07/Oct/12
If anyone is after a video of 'Starboard Traverse Extension', 'Seaside Scare', 'Notion' or 'Tactical Nuke' just e-mail me and I'll send you the video!
Beastly Squirrel - 27/Aug/11
Is there any online topo's for the boulder problems on this crag?
joe.91 - 22/Jun/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sport Climbing
2 Bark of a Midge 7a * 14
3 Stick Insect 6c+  
4 Sloped beyond Imagination
-
7b 6
5 Ladye of the Night 6b * 17
6 An Evening in the Company of the Clevedon Women's Guild
-
7a  
7 Chalked-up Mutant Woodlouse 7a+ 4
8 Lay Ladye Lay
-
7b * 7
9 Ladye Day
-
7a  
10 Green Ice 6c 10
11 Ladye Killer 6b+ * 16
12 Waterfall Wall
-
7c *  
13 Pier Pressure
-
7c **  
14 ex-project 7c+  
15 Smack Religion 6c 1
16 Never Trust a Lawman 7b+ *  
17 The Girdle
-
7a  
18 Kings of New England
-
E3 5c  
19 Weapons of Mass Distraction E6 6b ***  
20 Maine Man
-
E3 6a  
21 Frenchman Bay
-
E3 5c  
22 Layde Of The Night
-
6b * 2
  Bouldering
  Doughnut Caves
25 Juggy cave pain V2 3
26 The Seaside Traverse V8 ** 2
27 Ring Doughnuts V5 * 6
28 Bullet Hole Barrel V2 * 6
29 Cake Fetish V7 * 10
30 Doughnut Frenzy V6 *** 22
31 Bone Breaker HS 4a 4
32 RIP Monster truck VS 4a 5
33 Block Traverce V3 * 17
34 Conflicting Emotions V1 13
35 Hold your breath HVS 4c 21
36 The Nebula VS 4b 5
37 Chaved Duck V3 * 7
  The Halfway Boulders
39 Getting a Bit Lippy V4 1
  Main Crag
41 Notion V4 ** 11
42 Rob's Dyno V4 * 16
43 Tactical Nuke V5 ** 17
44 The Lightest Hour V9 *** 5
45 The Darkest Hour V8+ *** 7
46 Starboard Traverse - Extension V8 ** 2
47 Starboard Traverse V7 *** 8
48 The Highwayman - Extension V8 ** 3
49 The Highwayman V7 *** 11
50 Seaside Scare V5 * 20
51 Aquatic Fanatic V3 9
52 Tom's Dyno f6C * 2
53 Mono Misfits V5 4
54 Ship Wreck V9 ** 2
55 Larger Than Life V10 ** 2
56 Portside Traverse V8 * 1
57 Slap! V7 *** 1
  The House Boulders
59 The Big Bully Roof V6 ** 6
60 DesparĂȘte V8 ** 4
61 Not So DesparĂȘte V2 *** 6
62 The Tillie Traverse V1 *** 8
  The Hidden Roofs
64 Rocket Roof V8+ *** 4
65 James's Roof V8 ** 1
66 Fine Art Project  
67 Sam's Vee Too V2 **  
68 Creeper Dungeon S 1
69 Tillie's Low V6 1
70 The Low Balls V3 1
71 Chocolate jesus V7 * 4

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