Climbs 64
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

James working 'Larger Than Life' a long traverse project down at Ladye Bay, Clevedon. © Beastly Squirrel

Crag features

Discontinous line of low cliffs with bouldering and quite a few sports routes.

The rock is a young limestone, much like Portland.

Quite a few of the routes have hard starts and hard finishes with soft climbing in the middle.

Helmets may be a good idea as we had quite a few bits fall off when we were there!

It is tidal - exiting at high tide could be soggy..

Bolted with staples - they look ok and have held falls!

Bouldering has seen a lot of development recently but James Squire, Rob Stanfield and Jack Bradbrook. Online guide here:

Approach notes

The access notes in the Avon Guide are outstanding. Just follow them to the letter and you can't go wrong.


a word of warning to anyone who isn't keen on creepy-crawlies. Some of the pockets hold clusters of inch long sea woodlouse things, and they drop out on you. I had to spend 20 mins with a stick and a torch, dangling on our rope and extracting them from dark cracks before the rest of the party would deign to go near the routes!
hms - 01/Sep/13
There appears to be roughly two new lines of bolts between "Stick Insect" and "Sloped beyond Imagination". Does anyone have any information on these?
Tom Brierley Gore - 20/Jun/13
Beastly Squirrel - 07/Oct/12
If anyone is after a video of 'Starboard Traverse Extension', 'Seaside Scare', 'Notion' or 'Tactical Nuke' just e-mail me and I'll send you the video!
Beastly Squirrel - 27/Aug/11
Is there any online topo's for the boulder problems on this crag?
joe.91 - 22/Jun/11
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Climbs at this crag

 Doughnut Caves 
25Juggy cave painV2 3
26The Seaside TraverseV8 **1
27Ring DoughnutsV5 *6
28Bullet Hole BarrelV2 *5
29Cake FetishV7 *10
30Doughnut FrenzyV6 ***21
31Bone BreakerHS 4a 4
32RIP Monster truckVS 4a 5
33Block TraverceV3 *16
34Conflicting EmotionsV1 13
35Hold your breathHVS 4c 21
36The NebulaVS 4b 5
37Chaved DuckV3 *8
 The Halfway Boulders 
39Getting a Bit LippyV4 1
 Main Crag 
41NotionV4 **10
42Rob's DynoV4 *13
43Tactical NukeV5 **17
44The Lightest HourV9 ***5
45The Darkest HourV8+ ***7
46Starboard Traverse - ExtensionV8 **2
47Starboard TraverseV7 ***8
48The Highwayman - ExtensionV8 **3
49The HighwaymanV7 ***13
50Seaside ScareV5 *20
51Aquatic FanaticV3 9
52Tom's Dynof6C *2
53Mono MisfitsV5 4
54Ship WreckV9 **2
55Larger Than LifeV10 **2
56Portside TraverseV8 *1
57Slap!V7 ***1
 The House Boulders 
59The Big Bully RoofV6 **6
60DesparĂȘteV8 **4
61Not So DesparĂȘteV2 ***6
62The Tillie TraverseV1 ***8
 The Hidden Roofs 
64Rocket RoofV8+ ***4
65James's RoofV8 **1
66Fine ArtProject  
67Sam's Vee TooV2 ** 
68Creeper DungeonS 1
69Tillie's LowV6 1
70The Low BallsV3 1
71Chocolate jesusV7 *3

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