UKC

Climbs 130
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 40m a.s.l
Faces SE

Bristols answer to The Sloth, and a fine climb it is too ! © Mayaculpa

Crag features

Some quarries and natural buttresses. In the process of being cleaned up and developed for the forthcoming guidebook.

Approach notes

There is a small carpark at the end of river view road, from where the footpath to the crags start.

Still trying to work out which area is which going by the names on here. The Angry Panda area is of course obvious when you see it and the Apokolipto(?) wall id neighbouring that, and Bridge Buttress approach is covered in the old CC guide, not sure where everything else is though.
Steve nevers - 19/Oct/14
More great work cleaning up by Mark, Guy and team! Some exciting trad routes and some ok bouldering.
tombeasley - 15/Jul/14
Been here this afternoon and did the two VSs "The Ramp" and "Cobweb Wall". Both in good condition and very enjoyable. Definitely worth doing!
pheotleyr - 07/Dec/13
Afraid to say this place is in a right state. Aside from being pretty overgrown theres a lot more damage done.. Using this photo as a guide I'll point out whats up. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=62927 1) Pretty substantial tree has come down from the top of the crag just to the right off this photo (about 6-10ft to the right). 2) Large firepit at the base of the crag (roughly bottom left of this photo) leaving a fair bit of soot staining the rock. 3) the 'cave' (just around the left corner) has two paving slab blocks in the roof ready to come down, looks like a half decent yank would pull them free. 4) Large(ish) tree at the top of the crag has exposed roots, and some herberts kindly lit a fire inside the root system, leaving it rather weak.
Steve nevers - 08/Apr/13
If you are looking at Bridge Buttress, up the hill and right there is a crag: I spent about 3 or 4 hours one evening clearing a line down the front of it of ivy and that. Certainly looked worth a centure - hope someone climbs there and appreciates my effort. Further up the hill and right yet a bit further (best approached from the small carpark up the top by the houses) there is a small outcrop: four metre high verticle dimpled wall of sandstong. I cleared this of ivy as well and put up a route on the left hand side. Move up and over the small overlap to reach a sloping ledge with hands, make a committing move up to get the arete and to the top. Probably V0 and called Leap of Faith. If someone checks it out, do get in touch, I'd be interested to hear what you think!
chembhoysh - 26/May/08
Replying to Tom above, I wouldnt recommend this crag to anyone without much experience of placing gear, or climbing outside generally. The rock (pennant sandstone) is not as reliable as limestone/granite/grit both in terms of holds breaking and gear placements possibly failing. The place doesnt get that much traffic, and there are big trees at the top, so I would say go along and top rope if you want to try it out - it is in a pleasant setting (apart from a bit of rubbish thrown down from the top :/) and the rock has a very different feel to most of the rock hereabouts (i.e. polished to death limestone) Have fun and be safe Rich
richtea21 - 01/Mar/08
I don't know if this is the right place to ask, but i would like to know if this is a good climb for some one who hasn't really climbed on many outdoor routes, but is a pretty good climber. Thanks for your help Tom
RapellingTom - 26/Nov/07
I love this place! I have only climbed around the cave but it's awesome! very funon the top-rope but I haven't had the heart to trust gear in the sandstone. Last time I was there me and a mate weigthed a friend in the roof of the cave and a housebrick sized piece of rock split off and nearly knocked me unconscious. If anyone wants to go message me, I live about ten minutes walk away, it'll be grand! Capt. Jack
phosphojesus - 25/Apr/07
I agree with richtea, the crag has 2 descent VS's and a few overhanging E3's which are a bit loose and and dirty. But overall it has a cool feel
s0458892 - 03/Dec/06
Visited this crag (Bridge Buttress) yesterday evening, having vaguely looked for it and not found it 10 years ago. Wish I had been more determined now. Easiest way to get to it is to park near the western end of the school just north of the crag, and walk down the big footpath that skirts the edge of the school and drops into the Frome valley. Just before the little footbridge nip throught the gap in the wall and you are there. Nice clean tower of surprisingly solid pennant sandstone, about 50-60ft with a handful of routes including two nice well protected VS's, as well as a couple of worthwhile steep walls and a huge overhang to play about on. Was expecting the top-out to be a jungle bash but it turned out grassy and flat with no nettles/brambles and a superb belay/ab point, or walk off. Makes a nice change from the local polished limestone, and although it looks like it gets some traffic, a bit more would help keep the lines clean. On a side note, for those with kids, about a mile further upstream, near the (now pedestrian) bridge at Frenchay Mill are a pair of 40ft walls. I know that the scouts use one for abseiling, but the second one (about 200 yeards along the upper path, heading downstream from the bridge) is great for taking kids to - my 7 year old loves it - and is very safe. Its a 40ft high, 50ft wide sandstone wall, about 75-80 degrees and climbable anywhere at v.diff/severe grade on lots of flat/slightly positive holds. Again, it is used a bit, but more traffic would make it better. Have fun. Richtea
richtea21 - 21/Jul/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Quarries
  First wall
3 The Robin's Problem V1 5b 1
  Rhea Wall
5 Dire Rhea HVS 4b 1
6 Flightless V6 6c * 9
7 Thin crack to tree
-
V1 5b 3
8 Slab to tree
-
V1 5b 2
9 I Love U Rhea
-
VS 4c 2
10 More Than Molecules E1 5b 2
11 Quixotical Arete
-
HVS 5a 2
12 Celandine
-
E1 5a 1
13 Speedwell
-
E1 5a 1
  The Big Grey Leaning Wall
15 Morris Dancing on Ecstacy HVS ** 8
16 The Untempered Schism 6b * 11
17 Kangy's Eye of Faith HVS 5a 1
18 Revelations 6a * 17
19 Hubble 6b+ ** 32
20 Chilam Balam 6c * 9
21 The Face 6b+ * 9
22 Just Do It 6b 4
23 LA Dura Dura 7a+ * 7
24 L'autre Côté du ciel 6c ** 4
25 Agincourt 6c 4
26 Action Direct 6c * 11
27 LA Rambla(extension) 7a ** 6
28 Punks in the Gym 6c+ * 7
29 Biographie 6c+ * 10
30 Akira 6c 8
31 Mecca the mid-life crisis 7a * 15
  Terracotta Wall
33 World in Motion * E3 5c 2
34 Drip tease E1 5c 1
35 Terror Cottage VS 5a 2
36 The Ninja Warrior E7 6c 1
37 Terror-Firma E6 6b 1
38 The Kissing Tree E3 6a 1
39 Right Crack E1 5c * 10
40 The (S)end Train f7B 1
41 Walk on Guy f7C+ * 1
42 The Short Climb VS 4c 3
43 The Evening Play HVS 5c 1
44 The F.A Cup E3 6a ** 9
45 The Rebellion Begins
-
E11 5a *** 2
  Upper walls
47 Ultimate Surrender
-
E3 6a ** 4
48 Fingertippin'
-
f6A+  
49 Anarchy Begins at 50
-
HVS 5a 1
Climb name Grade
  Apokalypto Wall
51 This Way Up HS 4a 8
52 The Obvious Corner VS 5a 5
53 Phanero E3 6a * 11
54 Apokalypto E7 6b/c ** 11
55 But Did You Die? f7C * 1
56 Would be known f7A 2
57 Would Be Known Direct f7B+ * 1
58 Captain Obvious f6C+ 3
59 The Obvious Rail f5+ 3
  Angry panda wall
61 Grandpa Nay V2 5c 3
62 Darn Any Gap V2 5c 3
63 Angry Panda V3 6a * 13
64 Randy Pagan
-
V2 5c 10
  The Den of Iniquity
66 Oh dear f7A * 4
67 Morris Dancers f6A 3
68 Morris Dancers direct f6A+ * 1
  School Walls
70 The Morlock
-
HVS 5a 3
  The Little Grey Leaning Wall
72 LI 6a+ 19
73 The Steam Powered Send Train 6a * 4
74 Grey's Anatomy 6b 21
75 The Nuclear Powered Send Train 6c 2
76 All Cats Are Grey
-
6b * 16
77 By the Power of Greyskull 6a+ 12
78 Fifty shades of grey
-
6a+ * 12
79 Fade to Grey 6c+ * 16
80 Grey Squirrel-v-Red Squirrel 6c 8
81 OMZ Liam 7a 7
82 Battle For The Allotments
-
E1 5c 4
  Riverside buttresses
  Bridge Buttress
85 Schoolboy's Chimney D 3
86 Tendrils VS 4c 2
87 Little Hitler
-
E2 5c * 1
88 The Ramp VS 5a * 24
89 Cobweb Wall
-
VS 4c ** 25
90 The Ghost of Snuffy Jack
-
VS 4b 1
91 Luzula
-
E1 5b 1
92 Snuff Mover VS 5a 1
93 Halfpenny Climb
-
VS 5a 2
94 Bloody mess
-
E5 5c/6a * 1
95 Integrity * E5 5c 1
96 The faithless and forgotten * E4 5c 1
97 Lil' Kim Jung * HS 4b 3
Climb name Grade
  Eaves Buttress
99 Hottest Halloween
-
HVS 5a 2
100 The Nether
-
E2 5b * 2
101 Under the Eaves E3 5c * 1
102 Eaves
-
XS 5a/b *** 7
103 Eaves drop
-
E4 5c 1
  BB Buttress
105 Sozo E2 5b 2
106 BB Guns E2 5c 1
107 Revolt Into Style E1 5b 3
108 The Begbrook Overhang * E2 5c * 2
  Witherly Wall
110 Hard Grist E1 5b * 5
111 The Lunatics (have taken over the Asylum) E6 6c/7a ** 1
112 The Madhouse E2 5b 1
  km buttress
114 Smashed out the Park E1 5a 1
115 Silent Roar E6 6c ** 3
116 ASBO Crack
-
HVS 4c 1
117 The Noise Below is Pink
-
E1 5a 1
118 Live Outside Broadcast
-
VS 4c * 2
119 Hash Arete
-
VS 4b 2
120 River Song
-
E1 5b * 2
121 Sand Stoned
-
E2 5c * 2
122 Strawberry Bob HS 5a  
123 Snuff Mills (Witness the Fitness) * E2 5c 1
124 Monotaur * f6C 1
125 The Green Party * HVS 4c 1
126 Crisped to perfection but not burnt * HVS 5a 1
127 Ali Baba * f5+ 1
128 Forty Theives (Aller) * f6A 1
129 The Lost Shoe * f6A 1
130 Forty Theives (retour) * f6A 1
131 The Ninja Warrior (sport) * 7c *  
132 Terror firma * 7b+ * 1
133 Cracking up * f4+  
134 Rubbish arete * f4  
135 A right cracker * f2  
136 Easy mantle * f3  
137 The smiling cave * f5+ 1
138 Block Rat * f5+ 1
139 Sergeant Beesley * HVS 5c 3
140 Concussion * f5+ 3
141 Concussion SDS * f6A+ * 1
142 UJIMA 98 * f6B * 2
143 June E3 5c 1
144 The man who feeds the Ravens E5 5c * 1
145 Too Old To Die Young E2 5b 1
146 The Guns Fell Silent
-
E2 5b * 2
147 The Frome Valley Assault Course Challenge
-
E1 *** 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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