Climbs 60
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 100m a.s.l

Seb does battle with Gaping Gab © Dr Toph

Crag features

Only 10km from Edinburgh (and easily accessable by bus), Roslin Glen provides a large number of short (<30m), hard routes. Varilble rock quality means protection can be interesting, but in general the rock on the East bank is good. Many of the top outs are sandy/manky so for the harder routes it may be worthwhile cleaning the top before climbing! Expect an adventure when climbing here!

Best times are spring and autumn as dense undergrowth and midgies can be a problem.

Recommended routes include: Wrinklies (E3), Gaping Gab (E2), Claymore Crack (E1) and Harry Dodders Crack (E1)

Approach notes

For West Bank cliffs (Jumbos bum and red cliff) approach via Roslin Chapel - 10min walk upstream

For East Bank cliffs (Wallaces cave, Lovers leap and hanging butress) approach from Rosewell through fields to pick up numerous paths. River can often be forded to approach from the chapel side.

Guidebooks

Watch out if park at the official Midlothian Roslin Glen car park (NT278628) as it is properly locked after 20:00 at night! Also, no sign of any new paths east side - still a full on bush whack the earlier you leave the road. Go right up the road and round the fields.
timlukins - 25/May/12
looks better than previously as there appears to be a new path built on that side of the river.... have been plannin an exploratory trip in the next couple of weeks, so ill report back, or your welcome to come join. but everything down there is always a bit of an adventure so beware
Neil Mackenzie - 20/Mar/11
Anyone know what the access is like for Hanging Rock these days?
Dr Toph - 20/Mar/11
Definitely a worthwhile place to climb, some good fun routes on fairly good rock. The small road between Rosewell and Roslin is closed due to land slip but there are other roads. Good evening venue in a picturesque setting.
rob askew - 10/May/10
Jumbo's Bum is worthwhile as a top-roping venue for open minded climbers looking to get away from the monotony of south quarry visits. A few hard climbs on interesting rock with really interesting moves to work away at over a few visits (sort of long bouldering problems on a rope). Great place to get strong and only a pound on the bus!!!! (no. 15). Lovely setting too.
camw - 23/Mar/08
Visited Feb 2007. What a desperate venue! You'd be mad to climb on anything other than the Elephants Bum crag, and even that requires baws of steel. A limited top-rope venue or one for the psychotic with a death wish!
220bpm - 31/May/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Jumbos Bum
2 Rock All Over Me E4 6a 6
3 Bum Fun E4 6a 4
4 Centre Line HVS 5a * 21
5 Forty-Twa E4 5c 8
6 Jumbos Proctoscopy E3 5c 2
7 Monodoigtism * E2 1
  Red Cliff
9 Panama red E3 6a *  
  Waterfall Cliff
11 Aficionado HVS 5a *  
12 Edge of Darkness E3 6a *  
13 Walk on by E6 6c **  
14 Survival of the Fattest E5 6a **  
15 Piano Player E5 6a **  
  Wallaces Cave
17 Scotch Corner E2 6a *  
18 Cave crack HVS 5a  
19 Rampo E2 5b * 1
20 The Thin Crack E1 5c 5
21 Claymore Crack E1 5c * 10
22 The wrinklies E3 5c ** 11
23 Robin Hood VS 4c * 23
24 Hezbollah
-
E6 6b ** 7
25 Little John
-
VS 5a 6
26 Dougie's Route
-
HVS 5b * 8
27 Day of the Jockal
-
E2 6a 3
28 gorton crack VD * 23
29 Robert the Moose E4 6a * 1
30 Duncrankin
-
E4 6a ** 6
31 Harry Dodder's Crack E1 5b * 29
32 Scots Wha Hae E3 5c 3
33 Hoppys least favorite HS 10
  Trespassers Buttress
35 The Shouting Man
-
E5 6b *  
36 Strange Apparatus VS 4c 5
37 Two Teir Crack
-
E1 5c 2
  Lover's Leap Cliff
39 Always The Sun
-
E5 6b *  
  Hanging Rock
41 Hanging Rock E4 4c *** 2
42 Give 'em Enough Rope E5 6b **  
43 Deep in Diana HVS 5b * 1
44 Plunging Neckline
-
E3 5b **  
45 Roslin Roulette E6 6b *** 1
46 Gaping Gab E2 5c *** 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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