Climbs 4
Rocktype Ice
Altitude 5844m a.s.l
Faces all

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Sunset on Alpamayo, 5,947m © tombushell

Crag features

Alpamayo was described as the most beautiful mountain in the world, and doesn't disappoint. It has a distinctive face that has many snow fluting running to the summit ridge. The popular route was the Ferrari Route, but the French Direct, going direct to the summit, is now preferred as it has less danger from seracs.

Approach notes

Get to the head of the valley from Huaraz by taxi (expensive) or take buses as close as you can go and take a taxi the remainder of the way (cheaper). Donkeys and porters can be arrangesd here if required for the 1 long, or two slow days (better for acclimatising) to the base camp, which has a long drop toilet, shop for basics (and beer!) where tents and bags can be left while at higher camps. Morraine camp is about 2 hours up from base camp and just before the glacier (good for acclimatising). To get to high camp, head up the glacier and climb a gully just left of a rock buttress to the breathtaking view of the mountain from the col. Camp just over the col.

The individual crags are there already and there is no need for this page.
jonnie3430 - 17/Nov/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Alpamayo summit
2 Normal Route
D- 2
Climb name Grade
3 Ferrari Route AD+ *** 7
4 French Direct D *** 20

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer jonnie3430