Climbs 39
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 90m a.s.l
Faces NW

Birk crag, Harrogate taken on I phone 5s © Wizzy

Crag features

Good quality but sometimes heavily vegetated gritstone. Would need regular use or brushing to stay climbable. Offers quiet and secluded bouldering and climbing, catching the sun towards the afternoon in late spring / summer (best times to visit). mainly a bouldering spot, although climbs of good quality can still be found.

Approach notes

The BMC Access Notes linked to this crag are for a different Birk Crag!

For the experienced climber there are the 2 high quality E5/6's of Death Throes and Centre Stage. Death Throes would require a head point ascent whereas Centre Stage could be done as highball 7A+/7b with pads. The bouldering is generally good. The footpath boulder has an obvious foothold which is very crumbly and should be avoided.
Wizzy - 13/Nov/13
Sorry, the E4 is to the right of armpit and to the left of birk crack
Wizzy - 15/Sep/13
Because the crag is close to my house, I've been bouldering and soloing and I've done the FA of an E4, that is to the left of Armpit. The gritstone is good but I've never seen any other climbers there.
Wizzy - 10/Aug/13
I cleaned the Nursary Slabs area (in 2006 I think!), which required extensive cleaning. The majority of the former climbs were undetectable. I reclimbed about 6 alternatives (which I'm sure have been done before. I thought I'd submitted this information (sorry!). It may well be overgrown again but it provided an enjoyable evening, great for learning how to lead and for beginners.
craig watson - 04/Feb/11
There's Connoisseur and then there's just crap. This is really not worthy of wasting print or paper in the guidebook, nor wasting fuel and energy getting there. Yes the rock, under all the lichen, is actually solid, but the lines just don't appeal at all. There's possibly one good line at HS, but so lichenous, green and covered in brambles you'd have to be Alan Titmarsh to be interested. There are much better connoisseur crags and obscurities worthy of a mention above this - that bit of quarried stuff above Kildwick would be better in the YMC guidebook. There are also a lot of really annoying unfriendly Harrogatite dog walkers who don't let on thereabouts to give it a bad vibe for an area. The box quarry at Baildon Bank would be more of a fun day out - it's that bad!
jimorothy - 11/Oct/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Birk crag main buttress
2 llex Wall
-
VD 2
3 Ilex Wall Direct
-
VS 4c ** 3
4 Wendy
-
VD 1
5 Fiona
-
D 3
6 Moira M 4
7 Hilary
-
VD 1
8 Tom
-
VD 1
9 Jerry
-
D  
10 Rosla
-
S 4a * 5
11 Under control E6 6a * 1
12 Under control arĂȘte E5 6b **  
13 Armpit HVS 5a *  
14 Armpit crack SDS f5 * 2
15 Centre stage Alt start E4 6a * 1
16 Centre Stage E4 6b * 2
17 Centre stage start f7A ** 4
18 Armpit SDS into centre stage start
-
f6B+ 1
19 Centre stage traverse f7B+ **  
20 Birk Crack S 4a * 3
21 Surprise Crack
-
S 4a  
22 Lilac Crack
-
HS 4b  
23 Lilac Slab
-
MS 3c  
24 Girdle Traverse
-
MS 4a  
25 Joan's Climb
-
VD  
26 Epilobium
-
HD  
27 Generalissimo
-
S 4a  
28 Trotter
-
M  
  Footpath boulder
30 Footpath boulder arĂȘte f4+ 1
31 Footpath boulder centre f6A 1
32 Footpath boulder dyno f6C * 1
  House slabs
34 Nursery slab
-
f4 ** 2
35 Nursery slab without breaks
-
f5 ** 2
36 Attack of the slopers V3 ** 3
  Flake buttress
38 The Flake f5 **  
39 Flake Arete f5 ** 1
  Boulder
41 Far away
-
f4 1
42 Steep pulls
-
f4+ 1

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