Climbs 23
Rocktype Limestone

South Bay © James_86

Crag features

An esoteric little number offering two small bays. This crag is currently not in any guidebook and although it looks mostly unclimbed, there is evidence of historic use, namely a few stakes and bolt holes (bolts now removed).

The south bay consists of several routes of up to 15m, similar story for the North bay. The rock is mainly of good quality limestone and top outs arenít too scary, which makes a change for this area...

Until I can be certain of the history, I am unable to name the routes and grades but reckon there is something to offer from VD to E4+?

It maybe worth a visit if youíre in the area. Also if you know any of the routes please get in touch.

Approach notes

From the A465 heads of the valley road turn onto the B4560 Llangynidr road follow this for a few miles. The crag is on the left hand side about 50 feet after the Llangatock/Crickhowell turn off (one minute walk from the road). There is a layby suitable for up to 3 cars and more parking about 500 meters on. Check BMC for other access arrangements - none known at the time of writing.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

Overall a very nice place to visit. The North Bay is very solid with some really good lines. The top outs are ok and there are blocks at the top so belays can be arranged.
guy xavier percival - 22/Jun/17
Small car park to the left services about 3 to 5 cars. very easy access to the crags from the road. Left side of the crags are fairly simple to climb but there is very little Anchorage on the ridge making it poor as a top rope venue. I spotted one stake that had been driven completely into the ground and was rendered useless. The right side has much better anchorage for top ropes but the climbs are harder VS+. The cliffs are hardly used and very dusty but the grip is good. It was a good location to teach abseiling and work on technique. and a nice "late afternoon, Early evening work out. The venue was ideal for me to coach my son and a couple of friends as we were staying close by but there are undoubtedly better places to go.
Kieron - 25/Jul/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Just before the bear HD  
2 Pleasant Route S * 1
3 Black Wall E1 5b * 1
4 Black Rib E5 6b ** 1
5 Glanusk Groove E1 5b 1
6 Glanusk Wall VS 4c * 1
7 Solstice Wall E1 5a 1
8 Solstice Rib VS 4b * 1
9 Solstice arete VS 4b 1
10 Solstice hangover VS 5a 1
11 Quarry Mouth Arete HVS 5a * 2
12 Quarry Mouth Wall * VS 4c * 1
13 South side * VS 4c 1
14 South Slab * HVS 5a * 1
15 Down South * VS 5a 1
16 Southern Comfort * E1 5b 1
17 South Paw * E1 5b 1
18 Southbay Groove * HVS 5b * 1
19 South Bay Cracks * E2 5c * 1
20 Independence Day Groove * S 4a * 1
21 Independence Day Wall * S * 1
22 Right Hand Groove * HS 4a * 1
23 Independence Day Rib * VS 5a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer James_86