Climbs 41
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 208m a.s.l

Some say dry tooling is the devil's work... © Chris Prescott

Crag features

Bolt Fund: http://foolswithtools.co.uk/bolt-fund/ - Please consider a donation if you use Newtyle. The nature of the rock and conditions mean the bolts need replaced regularly.

Newtyle Quarry (AKA Birnam) is a unique climbing venue. In a short history it has been host to the development of a few good middle grade rock climbs, both trad and sport, and also some aid projects in the deep amphitheatre, The Tube. The rock here is Slate, which is pretty unusual in Scotland.


In 2003 a further spate of development has seen the establishment of some hard routes of several styles. Side by side in the Tube now sit a dry tooling route D13, a sports route F8b and a trad route E7. There are also three sport routes above the tube, aswell as a tooling route.

Since Fast and Furious was completed by Scott Muir further dry tooling routes have been established, and now a variety exist ranging from an amenable D4 to a savage D13.

Please do not dry tool any established rock climbs, or any new lines that are rock-climbable.
Particularly do not dry tool Spandau Ballet. The rock is soft and tools will damage the finger crack.
The rock is loose and chossy. It is also quite soft. Placements, especially slots in seams, will sometimes blow out.
Experience has shown that it is worth wearing a helmet when belaying. This is because of both loose rock being knocked down, and also the occasional axe being dropped.

Approach notes

Taking the A984 from Dunkeld toward Coupar Angus, after 2km you will reach the Deans park housing estate. The Quarry is in the wood to the right of this. The old entrance to the quarry is marked by an iron gate.
 

Restricted Access

Access To Newtyle. 16th September 2017.

There is currently active quarrying taking place at Newtyle. Doorjamb Slab and Beginners Slab are currently unaffected. Access to Happy Hooker Wall is extremely lose and unpleasant, and only has a small platform remaining (with some large lose embedded boulders) at the base of the wall, with potential difficulty in swinging back into the platform from a lower-off. The path from Happy Hooker under Pantile Slab and Main Slab doesn’t exist anymore. You can still access The Tube, but only by going up the boulder field at the back of the quarry workings.

We have been in contact with the company doing the extraction on behalf of the landowner, and are currently trying to get an on-site meeting with the Director of the company. Currently, the company have confirmed that: 1) they are actively working the quarry; 2) access is still allowed but ask that anyone visiting asks permission of anyone working on site; 3) they will be putting up fences/barriers at some stage in the future.

Hopefully our meeting will be before they put fences up and we can agree a more formalised access agreement.

In the meantime, and in the absence of any fences/barriers, please follow these 5 simple steps:

1. Continue to park very sensitively on Dean’s Park – please please please car share from one of the two main carparks in Dunkeld (the local residents on Deans Park have been really supportive of climbers, and proactive in their desire to not see the site developed); 2. Only access the site as most folk currently do, ie up the wee path from near the entrance to Deans Park then skirt left around the new levelled area; 3. Under no circumstances take vehicles up the now upgraded old access; 4. If challenged on the site, be super-polite, find out the name of the person you’re talking to, ideally walk away, and let me and/or Mountaineering Scotland know what happened; 5 – continue to enjoy one of Scotland’s most diverse climbing venues.

Cheers, Simon Yearsley

 

 

Counting Out Time (steady, very good) and Slateford Road (delicate, very serious) both climbed Sept 2017. Cleared off some friable rock and also trimmed gorse on the top traverse of Slateford. There is still some gorse at the very end (the safe bit, shared with COT) before the tree so when all you lot go up there to do these routes, take some secateurs just for that last bit.
Fiend - 16/Sep/17
Topo here: https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Newtyle_Quarry
ERU - 10/Nov/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Doorjamb Slab
2 Give Me Sunshine 6c+ 1
3 Spandau Ballet E2 5c ** 29
4 Pulliscious
-
M6 69
5 Roofiliscious
-
M5 ** 217
6 Grooviliscious M4 283
7 Bonzai M4 * 258
8 Beginers slab M3 17
  Happy Hooker Wall
10 A Mind of Metal M7+ 31
11 Insane in the Membrane M9 24
12 Happy Hooker M7 116
13 Urban Turban M7 21
14 Va Va Voom M8 45
15 The Sting M8 1
  Pantile Slab
17 Pentile Headlap
-
E2 5b *  
  The Outhouse Slab
19 Flashdance
-
E3 6a  
  The Main Slab
21 Just Gentleman
-
E3 5c  
22 Pulse
-
E2 5b *  
23 Marguerita
-
E1 5a  
24 Soft Shoe Shuffle
-
E1 5a * 1
25 Raspberries
-
E3 5b **  
26 Atomic
-
E3 5c *  
27 Slateford Road
-
E2 5b **  
28 Compulsive Gambler
-
E5 6a *** 2
29 Counting Out Time
-
E3 5c ** 3
30 The Fringe
-
E4 6a  
  The Tube
32 Gone in 60 Seconds E7 6c  
33 Hurley Burley
-
8b 4
34 Training for Something M12 2
35 Fast and Furious M10 60
36 Too Fast Too Furious M11+ 5
37 DTS Spirit M12 *** 5
38 Torch Lite M11 ** 20
39 The Big Bad Wolf M12 *** 3
40 F.C.U.K. M12 *** 3
41 Torch Lite Too M11+ ** 4
42 Frankenstein M13 *** 2
43 Fly You Fools! M6 ** 9
  Upper Tier
45 Hammerhead and the Quarryman M9 1
46 el Ringo 6a+ * 2
47 Dance into the Groove 6b+ ** 1
48 Like a Virgin 6c *  

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