Climbs 65
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces S

Jammin © andymoin

Crag features

Despite the grotty-ness of this quarry, the distractions of the M90 and the paintwork on the rock, it's not actually a bad place to climb.

Some decent routes - dries quickly. Worth a visit but take a rope bag - there is a lot of broken glass lying around.

Check out the ScottishClimbs.com website for a nice guide with photo Topos (Soon!)

Approach notes

Park in Rosyth on Admiralty Rd near M90 roundabout. Take care crossing road!

5 mins walk in. Or park in Inverkeithing and approach from the top. The crag is also easily accessible by train from Edinburgh, there is a station in Inverkeithing.

Guidebooks

The very large and very unstable block in between Hands Off and You Jist Took That Too Far was removed today, it was very dangerous and came away with very little effort. I imagine it changes the grade of the E1 as the climbing is now fairly unprojected!
Shed - 19/Jul/15
Jammed cams in Heathy removed 3/6/2014. Please try not to get anymore stuck. The cams I removed were both Wild Country size 1.
Fiona Reid - 03/Jun/14
This lovely quarry is now a total dump due to illegal disposal of waste. Been there today and there is a burnt bicycle there, a metal bed frame and lots of rubbish around. Too bad really, the council or climbers should clean it up.
RomTheBear - 21/Apr/14
First time yesterday and was pleasantly surprised. Rock is sound for the most part while the kit depends on the route with some being very good while others are slightly more adventurous. If this place was cleaned out it would be really good.
CyberTaff - 09/Sep/13
Belay stakes could do with being replaced. I gave one above Cathy/Heathy a couple of taps and it fell out completely, was fairly rusted and only buried about a foot deep. The white one beside it seemed a bit more resilient but would be wary about using it!
CMcBain - 08/Apr/12
Youtube footage of Rosyth Quarry. http://youtu.be/AVOx60XYHsY
Denpov - 02/Oct/11
Rock fall leads to injury of belayed at Crag. Climb - Brocken pillar Top roping. A large rock (about the size of a head) came dislodged and fell just missing the belayed but bouncing off the ground and injuring her leg badly enough to warrant a trip to hospital and some stitches. I provided treatment, and recommended the casualty be taken to hospital. The following mistakes where made by that groups leader. 1. They had no first aid kit. 2. No helmets had been supplied by the leader. 3. When swapping the belayed over, he completely unclipped her before then re-clipped into his own harness to lower the climber, (leaving the climbing completely unsecure). 4. The route selection was a poor choice given the large amount of rock fall in that area, esp. given that the clients had never climbed out doors before. 5. They insisted on moving the casualty before having given enough time to rest and against my judgement. These mistakes should be learned from, I donít say them to insult, I put them up hear as reminders as to how small mistakes could potential lead to fatal consequences. Have fun, but be safe.
smile - 08/Jul/11
nice enough quarry with a good view, love the rock and the routes
franksnb - 22/Aug/10
Got my anchor equipment stolen here at the weekend after abseiling & leaving it unattended for around 5mins. Won't be going back here!
Pete23 - 16/Mar/10
A lot of silly eliminates squeezed in here, definitely milking a manky little quarry for all it's worth!
Andy Moles - 23/Feb/10
Airguns and flying fridges seem to be out this year, but quadbikes are most definitely in. This doesn't help communication between leader and second, although access around some of the usually more overgrown parts of the quarry seem to have been helped by the new quadbike width tracks.
JiveWeasel - 03/May/09
Watch out for toaster sized loose block/flake on the left of Tin/Gold Foil, at about five metres up. I tried to knock it off for safety sake, but it's stubborn. Not stubborn enough to trust pro behind, though. Be careful :)
weedom - 29/Jun/08
Not a great venue but still worth a visit as there are some worthwhile climbs. Bring lots of small cams if you have them. Beware of rock throwing neds- they will brain you with any projectiles that come to hand. Those anchor stakes are a bit dodgy too!!
camw - 23/Jun/06
The Waullie (HVS 5b) is awesome, Heathy and Cathy (VS4C) are great but one of them feels that grade, the other feels a lot worse, but I'll not say which! Worth a visit despite the drawbacks which become obvious when you get there. Good for soloing/bouldering stuff.
nickinscottishmountains - 22/May/05
Protection not brilliant on easier climbs but improves with difficulty. If you climb HVS then do The Waullie (5b). Best route in the quarry. Stakes in place to belay but beware of glass/rock throwing neds with pyromanical tendancies.
Rooster - 26/May/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Route to Root VS 4c 41
2 Grot Corner S 125
3 Skinny Lizzie HVS 5a 15
4 Chemical Warfare S * 552
5 Sickle VD * 548
6 Wireworm M 235
7 Wireworm Direct D 91
8 Smith's Dilemma D * 206
9 Jack's Route VD 359
10 Legover Groove VD 257
11 STY Slab VD 47
12 Andy's Route VD 343
13 Poison Dwarf E1 5c 14
14 Drizzle S 374
15 Pis Aller f4 2
16 Philistine E2 6a 30
17 Uncouth f6B 1
18 Philistine Direct E3 6b  
19 The Waullie HVS 5b ** 455
20 C.N.D. S * 593
21 Gonnae No' Dae That S 27
22 Hands Off VS 4c 116
23 You Jist Took That Too Far E1 5b 5
24 Forth Bridge HVS 5a 8
25 Fog On The Forth E1 5b 4
26 Gumball 3000 HVS 5c 1
27 Suspect Device E1 5b 35
28 Iconoclast HVS 5a * 145
29 Shady Character E1 5a 11
30 Whithering Heights f5  
31 Named and Shamed HS 29
32 Grenville VS 4b * 355
33 Life During Wartime E1 5b * 5
34 Heathy VS 4c ** 645
35 Master Fwap E1 5b 2
36 Cathy VS 4c ** 303
37 Broken Pillar HVS 5a * 155
38 Cop Out HS * 4
39 Unbroken Pillar E3 6a 1
40 Fire In The Quarry MS 6
41 Corpuscle E3 5c 12
42 Ram Jam Corner HVS 5a 12
43 Pogo Groove VS 4c 15
44 Flakeoff VS 4c * 7
45 Changeling VS 4c * 8
46 The Beauty HVS 5a * 21
47 The Beast VS 5a * 41
48 The Grinder HVS 4c 19
49 A Cheeky Hook E1 5a * 1
50 Gift Horse VS 4b 41
51 Plod HVS 5a 21
52 Gold Foil VS 4c * 94
53 The Flying Bink VS 4c 35
54 If Pigs Could Fly E2 5c ** 16
55 Briggy Pop HVS 5b 7
56 The Stinking Swordsman E4 6b * 1
57 Fat Sam VS 4c 9
58 The Rust Bucket E2 6a 2
59 Late Night Final D 37
60 Jagdhond HVS 5a 14
61 Free Love Not Serendipidy HVS 4c 1
62 Serendipity VS 4c * 80
63 Tiger Pad HVS 5a 14
64 Inspiration E1 5b 3
65 Via Macninen
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