Climbing banned in Spain

Due to the ongoing spread of Coronavirus, Spain has banned all climbing. Continuing to do so not only puts people at risk, but can also put more strain on emergency workers. Please do not climb here.

Lamoncloa (Spanish Government) link with more info

Climbs 175
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 759m a.s.l
Faces W

Crag features

The crags are in a very pleasant location. Foz de la Canal comes into the sun in the afternoon from about 2.30pm while Las Devotas and Superdevotas are in the shade in the afternoon from about 1pm. Foz de la Canal is best for some very hard routes around 8a and above, it is approached by a short walk and a tricky via ferrata taking 15 minutes in total. Las Devotas is 5 minutes from the road and is best for slightly easier climbs in the range 6a-7c. Further up the hill (20 minuets from the road) is Superdevotas, here the routes are very steep and mostly range from 7c+ to 8b. 

 

 

 

2016 New guidebook covers French and Spanish sides of the Bielsa tunnel. "Grimpe en Vallees d'Aure"

Approach notes

a Foz del Canal - Approach: 15mins Aspect: west facing Height: 35m Parking: 76 kilometre. The parking is in a small layby at the 76k marker just after a bridge. Take a path that goes up following the small stream then cross the stream and scramble up to the base of a 30m via ferrata. Climb this with great care up to the cliff

Superdevotas 20 min Las Devotas: Approach: 5mins, Parking 2 min Aspect: east facing, Height: up to 45m Parking: 68.5 kilometre. About 12k south of Bielsa park on the left just before a small tunnel. Look for a small sign "Coto Privado Cala". The cliff can be seen overlooking the road.

Rincon de Sin is a new sector with routes up to 50 metres long.  Development continues at a pace by a seemingly very dedicated group of locals as of 2019, with a new guide expected in 2021. Situated a kilometre or so up the valley from Devotas, it enjoys shade from around 12.30 .  Park by a football field left of the road before you come to the electrical power station. There is also a large lay-by/picnic are opposite the crag approach for reference and parking. The approach is a steep 30 minutes uphill following cairns and ropes. Many of the routes have name plaques at the base.

 

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Foz de la Canal
2 Ca Caille 7c **  
3 Catastrophen
-
7b+ *  
4 Fils de Pan
-
7a *** 4
5 Catiere les Points
-
7b *** 6
6 La Surchauffe de la Loco
-
7c+  
7 Carla 7b * 1
8 Un Peu de Resi Dans Ce Monde de Brute
-
8b  
9 Envers et contre tout 7a+  
10 Jeanne 7c+ ** 2
11 Docteur La Poulie 8a+ **  
12 Aurore Boreal 8a *** 2
13 Team BTR
-
8a+ * 1
14 Phänomenologie des geistes
-
8b+  
15 Kif Kif
-
8b+ 2
16 Kif kif demain 8c+ *** 1
17 Just Married
-
8b *  
18 Joe Bar Team L1
-
7b+ *** 6
19 Joe Bar Team (L1+L2)
-
7c *** 4
20 Tilt
-
8b ** 1
21 Highway 42
-
8b ** 2
22 Marroushka
-
8b **  
23 Maia
-
8b+ **  
24 Humphrey
-
8a+ *** 1
25 Visa Pour Bielsa
-
8a *** 4
26 Arrampicata y Mozzarella L1 7a ** 5
27 Arrampicata y Mozzarella (L1+L2)
-
7c+ *** 2
28 Rebord de Fosse 7b+ *** 4
29 50 Millions de Consommateurs 6c+ *** 7
30 Le Corbeau et le Renard 7b+ *  
31 Moi JE
-
7a ** 8
32 Consomme 7b *** 7
33 Amandine 8a  
34 Chupeta 8a+  
35 Agua Mineral
-
7c+  
36 Agua Mineral (RH Finish) 7c  
37 Tamalous 8a+  
  Rincon de Sin
39 Rosae
-
7c+ ***  
40 Adidas 7c *** 1
41 Pétroglyphes Project  
42 L'Anartiste
-
7a+  
43 Paraguayo
-
7b  
44 Anthropecéne (L1) 7a+ *** 1
45 Anthropecéne (L1+L2)
-
Project  
46 Repeunchous
-
7b+ ** 2
47 Salamalees
-
7b+ **  
48 Hola que tal
-
7b *** 4
49 Fissure Davy
-
7a+  
50 Plafond de verre 6b+ ** 1
51 Shirley et Dino 6a+ 2
52 Bluetooth
-
7c  
53 Veron
-
7c+  
54 Marche Pied 7c ***  
55 Popero (L1) 7c ***  
56 Popero (L1+L2)
-
8a+  
57 Cabytcho
-
8a ***  
58 Big Fat
-
8a+  
59 Ninja Warrior Project  
60 Kéfir
-
8a+  
61 Good Time L1
-
7a+ ** 1
Climb name Grade
62 Good Time (L1+L2) 8a ***  
63 Izzy Rider L1 7a+ ** 3
64 Izzy Rider (L1+L2)
-
7c+ *** 1
65 Rocky Rider
-
7c ***  
66 El Esquimazau (L1)
-
6b+ ** 2
67 El Esquimazau (L1+L2)
-
7b *** 4
68 Sorry Angel L1 7a *** 3
69 Sorry Angel (L1+L2)
-
7b+ **  
70 Planosphére (L1)
-
7a ** 2
71 Planosphére (L1+L2) 7c+ ***  
72 Vases communiquant Project  
73 Vegan L1
-
7b+ ***  
74 Vegan (L1+L2)
-
8a+  
75 Made in Rincon 8c ***  
76 Future Incertain
-
Project  
77 Syracuse
-
7a+  
78 Juanita bananas
-
7a  
79 Balance 7a+ **  
80 La tete dans le cul 1  
81 Unknown 7b  
82 Quasimodo 7b+ **  
83 Chewbacca 7b+ **  
84 Sea Shepherd 7a+ ** 1
85 Rainbow Warrior 7a * 1
  Super Devotas
87 Voie Pascal
-
7c+  
88 Voie Eric
-
8a+  
89 Natural L1
-
7b+ 1
90 Natural (L1+L2)
-
8a **  
91 Naranja 8a+ ***  
92 Creo Que No L1
-
6c+ *** 1
93 Creo Que No (L1+L2)
-
8b ***  
94 Coulo
-
8b ***  
95 X 8a *** 1
96 Y 8a+ ***  
97 Fischer King
-
8b ***  
98 Castor Boiteux 7c  
99 Peril Jaune
-
8a 1
100 Parfum de Kalymnos
-
8a ** 2
101 La Traversee des Dieux 8a *** 1
102 Dresseur de Loups Project  
103 Labrum 8a+ ***  
104 Recession Sous Epineux 8b+ ***  
105 Name Unknown 5
-
Project  
106 Voie Daniel
-
8a+  
107 Voie Tonio
-
8a  
108 Tsi Nah Pa
-
7b+  
109 Name Unknown 2 7b ** 1
110 Crack
-
6b+ ** 3
111 Traverse Out Of Crack
-
6b+ *  
  Las Devotas, Secteur Embrouille
113 L'Embrouille 7c *** 1
114 2. Unknown Name
-
8a+  
115 L'Embuscade
-
8a **  
116 4. Unknown Name
-
7b ** 1
117 5. Unknown Name
-
7a+ **  
118 6. Unknown Name
-
7a *  
119 7. Unknown Name
-
7a *  
120 8. Unknown Name
-
6b+ *  
121 Ca Roule Ma Poule
-
7a+ *** 5
122 Tarlouze
-
7b+ *** 1
Climb name Grade
123 11. Unknown Name
-
7b *  
124 Five Plus 5b  
125 Solo con Faceta
-
6a+ * 3
126 Talea 7a+ *** 3
127 15. Unknown Name
-
6b ** 4
128 Personne L1
-
6b+ ** 9
129 Personne (L1+L2)
-
6c+ *** 10
130 La Ballade L1
-
6b *** 7
131 La Ballade (L1+L2)
-
7a+ *** 10
132 La Desidia L1
-
6c+ ** 6
133 La Desidia L1 + L2 (+L3)
-
7b *** 7
134 Tout Feu Tout Flamme L1
-
6c ** 4
135 Tout Feu Tout Flamme (L1+L2)
-
7b ** 2
136 20. Takoman L1
-
7a * 2
137 21. Unknown Name (L1)
-
6b ** 10
138 21. Unknown Name (L1+L2)
-
Project  
139 22. Unknown Name L1 6a *** 11
140 22. Unknown Name (L1+L2)
-
7b *** 6
  Las Devotas, Secteur Bicho
142 23. Unknown Name
-
6c *** 6
143 La Renverse
-
7c+ ** 1
144 La Deche
-
7b+ *** 8
145 Bicho L1
-
7a *** 6
146 Bicho (L1+L2)
-
7b *** 10
147 A'Tchao
-
7a+ *** 14
148 Medeur L1
-
6c+ ** 1
149 Medeur (L1+L2)
-
7b ** 1
150 Le Rose de Bielsa 7b+ *** 3
151 Ulimaco L1
-
6c 3
152 Ulimaco (L1+L2) 7a+ 4
153 Ailen Rock 7a *** 16
154 Terror Guache 7a * 6
155 On Mange Le Pain Blanc 7a *** 3
156 La Fauve (Original line) 6c ** 5
157 La Fauve 2.0 (new direct line) 6c+ ** 5
158 Araknofilia
-
6c+ *** 7
159 Araknofobia 7a+ ** 5
160 El Violin 7b * 3
161 El Sr. de Itoiz 7b ** 8
162 Kundalini 7b *** 8
163 Black Cat Masque 7a+ *** 2
164 Project Project  
165 La Soupe auz Choux
-
7a ** 4
166 Corinda 7a *** 1
167 Du Sel dans les Plaies
-
7a 3
168 Carlito 7a *** 6
169 Terre Courage 7a+ *** 7
170 Manu Tchao 6c *** 5
171 Super Reglettas
-
7a+ *** 6
172 Helas Bouteillas 6c+ *** 7
173 Prima Vera 7a *** 9
174 Trompe le monde 7b  
175 L'ange bleu
-
7a+ 1
176 sans nom
-
6c+ 2
  New/Unsorted
178 Tu do bas buxaco
-
6a 1
179 Ixo Rai
-
5b 1
180 Domador sin oso
-
5b 1
181 La Primeriza
-
5b 1

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