Climbs 108
Rocktype Artificial
Altitude 32m a.s.l
Faces all

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The route is under the slab © jimecallaw

Crag features

There are nine concrete boulders in all, with hundreds of problems of slab, vertical and overhanging nature. There are a great range of problems ideal for beginners, and some of the boulders are low enough that fear of heights can be removed entirely! The landings are shingle, which is safe enough for the easier climbs but still worth bringing a boulder mat and spotter to attempt the higher and harder problems. The taller boulders have threads at the top for setting up a top rope if required.

The first boulder (The Mushroom) is found when entering the boulder field from the Sailing Centre car park. If you've come from the golf course end you'll see the smaller boulders first.

The first route on each boulder should be fairly obvious and described well in terms of position. The routes then follow round clockwise for every boulder, so once you've located the first route you should be able to find the rest! There's an official guide at the link below, and some of the routes here are given their official route number in brackets after the climb name.

http://www.climbonline.co.uk/fairlop_waters.htm

Please note that the grading is being changed gradually to the Font system, so all new routes should be added with Font grades.

Approach notes

Access is a short walk from Fairlop underground station (central line). Walk along the main road past the entrance for the golf club, keep going until you reach the second entrance, the boulders are immediately on your right as you enter. Park as for walking just on the left.

Feb '15 Getting mossy in a lot of the cracks, especially on the Prominent Prow and Arches. Took a scrubbing brush to a couple of routes but it needs some proper gardening to get it all crispy fresh again.
edmundro - 29/Mar/15
Thanks for the feedback, yes it would be really good to make things a bit more logical. I began work on a new official guide which would be a bit more comprehensive and cover most of the new routes, but unfortunately I'm now living much further away and can't be sure when I'll have a chance even to go and confirm the grades which are waiting. If anyone is interested in lending a hand toward this project please get in touch. Otherwise I will do my best to get something done as soon as possible, as I appreciate it will really help those visiting the crag.
Radical-G - 13/May/12
Would be helpful to add all of the official guide problems (or add the numbers in brackets as you have started to do) and to have more description on each climb about where it is situated. Appreciate that most of this was done before the official guide and have moderated crags myself so know it is a lot of work. Just a bit confusing at present IMO.
TRNovice - 13/May/12
More details PDF mini guide and other useful info can be found at: http://www.climbonline.co.uk/fairlop_waters.htm
Steve Crowe - 22/Jun/11
fairlop is a decent local place just to get outside and enjoy. there are loads of routes and fun challenges. the only downside is that the boulders surface is super rough concrete. excellant for smearing but kills your hands quick!
mrmoe17 - 25/May/11
Cheers for the comments. Have updated the boulder names so they have the official and UKC names. I would recommend the official guide to anyone who is a relative beginner and has not climbed at Fairlop much, the UKC guide here serves to cover a lot more in the intermediate grades and records many climbs which are not listed on the official guide.
Radical-G - 17/Apr/11
Just come across Fairlop boulders & the official guide does not seem to match what is on UKC. Makes it difficult to work out what you are actually bouldering. Helpful if there was a topo of the UKC listed climbs. I would have thought UKC would stick to the official names for each boulder.
jaxxman - 15/Apr/11
Definitely a good idea, I will try to find a good way of doing this. While a lot more routes are included here, being able to cross reference them with the visual guide would be very helpful and make finding the routes a lot easier.
Radical-G - 09/Nov/10
Have been here a few times with my family, it's great as they can mess about on the boulders while I do specific routes. There is an official guide to the boulders though, which doesn't follow the same routes as the guide here, maybe they should be aligned?
tom_greenwich - 27/Oct/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Magical Mushroom Boulder
2 Liptricks (2) f6A 22
3 Into the Clouds (1) VB 19
4 Give Me Some Time f5+ * 17
5 Horse Trot f4 12
6 Primiura Donna f4+ 23
7 Carl's Delight f4 14
8 Rich's Demise f5 12
9 Girdle Traverse f4 7
10 A Sloth on Holiday f5 * 4
  The Dinosaur / The Prominent Prow
12 Nosejob f5 23
13 Face/Off (4) f3+ 23
14 Crack Layawy f4+ * 20
15 Sailor's Revenge f5+ ** 7
16 Vixen Party f4 12
17 The Orke Slab VB 16
18 Round Face f3+ 10
19 Little Crack f4 * 14
20 Star Wars f5+ * 12
21 Massive Crack f4 ** 17
22 Layaway Crack VB 11
23 Big Crack f4 8
24 Off/Face (5) f4+ 11
25 Girdle Transverse f4+ 6
  Durdle Door / The Arches
27 Step Up f3+ 18
28 Can You Hear Me Major Tim? f4 12
29 Koh Pan Yang f3+ 13
30 Theula f4 8
31 Ethel For Your Feet f5 3
32 The Promise of More to Come f6A+ * 3
33 Wide Arete f5 8
34 Across Purposes f4+ * 8
35 Suzy's Shoes f4 12
36 Berlin f5 13
37 Cordially Reminiscent f3+ 16
38 Justice In Greenery f3+ 13
39 Charles Saatchi is made of Playdough f4+ 4
Climb name Grade
40 Burying The Hatchet f4 9
41 QS f4 9
42 Toast + Jam f4 8
43 There's No Place Like Homebase f4 5
44 Grey Matter f4 7
45 No Grooves Rock's Revenge f5 3
46 Stand Start Art f5 4
47 Durdle Girdle f5+ ** 5
48 Welcome To Fullmore f7A ** 3
  The Bat's Rest / Dumbo the Elephant
50 Spine (1) VB 23
51 Chips f4+ 23
52 Very Easy Springy f4 23
53 It's A Toigar! (4) f5 20
54 Crispin's Wake VB 19
55 Collaborating with Santa (2) f3+ 24
56 The Fat Bat f5+ * 7
  The Behemoth / The Enormous Roofed Block
58 Top Crack (8) f3+ 34
59 Cloud Atlas f4+ 23
60 Spaghetti Snaps f5 * 16
61 Definitely V7 f3+ 32
62 Slaprock Trio VB 15
63 Through the Eye of the Crack (4) f2 28
64 Spongecake (3) f4 32
65 Sans Arete VB 22
66 Ascend the Descent (1) VB 31
67 Sans Inside Edge (12) f5 * 21
68 [Insert Extremely Pertinent Name Here] f6A+ * 11
69 Rescuing my Socks (11) f5+ 16
70 Mariposa Assesina f6A 5
71 Under Cover (10) f5+ * 25
72 Intransigence (9) f5+ * 17
73 Ollie's dyno V3 ** 2
74 Going to the Zoo Tomorrow f5 13
75 Going to the Zoo Today f6B ** 1
76 Epic dyno V4 *** 1
  The Roof Boulder / Fairy's Cave
78 Fairy's Cave - Route 1 (1)
-
VB 20
Climb name Grade
79 The Pibbles Problem (2) f6A * 37
80 Fairy's Cave (3) VB 8
81 Fairy's Cave - Route 3
-
f2 19
82 Fairy's Cave - Route 4
-
VB 20
83 Fairy's Cave - Route 5
-
VB 16
84 Fairy's Cave - Route 6
-
VB 20
85 Fairy's Cave - Route 7
-
VB 16
86 Fairy's Cave - Route 8
-
VB 16
87 Splendid f4 9
88 Pibbles Girdle f4+ 8
  Twin Peaks
90 Twin Peaks - 1 VB 18
91 Twin Peaks - 2 VB 19
92 Twin Peaks - 3 f3+ 22
93 Twin Peaks - 4 f4 23
94 Twin Peaks - 5 VB 21
95 Twin Peaks - 6 VB 20
96 Twin Peaks - 7 VB 19
97 Ammonite Girdle f4+ * 11
  The Petit Block
99 Petit Block - Route 1
-
VB 15
100 Petit Block - Route 2
-
VB 15
101 Petit Block - Route 3
-
VB 15
102 Petit Block - Route 4
-
VB 15
103 Child's play f3+ * 7
  The Final Boulder
105 Arch Traverse VB 7
106 Arch Of A Frig f4 * 13
107 The Final Boulder - 1 VB 15
108 The Final Boulder - 2 VB 15
109 The Final Boulder - 3 VB 16
110 The Final Boulder - 4 VB 22
111 The Final Boulder - 5 VB 14
112 The Final Boulder - 6 VB 14
113 The Final Boulder - 7
-
VB 15
114 The Final Boulder - 8 VB 14
115 The Final Boulder - 9 VB 15
116 The Final Boulder - 10
-
VB 14
117 Dinosaur dyno V1 ** 3

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