Climbs 54
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 464m a.s.l
Faces W

Abseil off Penny Lane © RAB623

Crag features

There are four climbing areas with in this amazing section of the Wadi Shaha. Other then Roadside crag this area is the most convenient trad area in the UAE; directly off of the road. All of the climbs are between 15 and 50m.

Nearside and Junction are on the right side of the road mostly west facing. Nearside is the first set of route on the right side and Junction is a short walk further up the road where the road meets the Wadi on the right. There are 50+ route here that are very well cleaned and protected. With several anchor placements on the cliff to descend from.

Farside is on the left side of the road directly across the street from Nearside. This are has 4 well cleaned and protected trad routes, one trad route that is still open for a FA. There is one 30m sport route; Angle's Way 6a+ that is highly recommended and one 30m mixed sport/trad route; Devil's Slide 6b that is also very nice.

The fourth area is underdevelopment.

Shade depends on the time of day and season. No matter what time of day you will find shade in one of the areas. There is usually a nice mountain breeze flowing through the wadi.

See: http://www.redarmadapublishing.com/nearside_1.pdf

Approach notes

See: http://www.redarmadapublishing.com/nearside_1.pdf

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Nearside
2 Little Pee Dee
-
HVS 1
3 Tim's Tipple
-
E1 ** 4
4 Wild Goat
-
HVS  
5 Sunshade
-
VS 3
6 Pete's Corner
-
HVS 5a ** 8
7 Feathered freinds
-
HVS 5a ** 5
8 Tradistan Incursion
-
E4 **  
9 Spring Clean
-
HVS **  
10 Ooh Aah Cantona
-
E1 *** 1
11 Pimms in the Pool
-
HVS *** 2
12 Candyman
-
VS * 2
13 Cocaine Blues
-
E2 ***  
14 Happy Wanderer
-
VS *  
15 Irish Tea Party
-
VS  
16 Neighbour of the Beast
-
VS  
17 Project
-
M  
  Junction
19 Armbar Lane
-
E3 **  
20 Rolling Stock
-
VS * 1
21 Clapham
-
HVS  
22 Easter Crack
-
HVS  
23 Boy Racer
-
VS  
24 Overhung Hangover
-
HVS  
25 Le Detour
-
HVS  
26 French Connection
-
HVS  
27 Rob's Dilemma
-
HVS  
28 Pavement Cracks Left
-
S  
29 Pavement Cracks Right
-
VS  
30 Barefoot Lady
-
HVS *  
31 Chimney Crack
-
VS *  
32 A Band of Angels
-
E2 **  
33 Swing Low
-
VS *  
34 Sweet Chariot
-
VS  
35 Surgical Hands
-
E4 *  
36 Angel Dust
-
HVS *  
37 Juicy Lucy
-
HVS **  
38 Christmas Crack
-
E2  
39 Mud Bath
-
VS  
40 High Diver
-
E1  
41 Penny Lane
-
E1 *** 1
42 Spaghetti Junction
-
HVS *  
43 Chimney Crack 2
-
HVS  
44 The Sidings
-
VS 1
45 Sidings Direct
-
E3  
46 No Speeding
-
E1 **  
47 Leapfrog
-
HVS **  
48 Firebox
-
E1 *  
49 Great Western
-
HVS 5a *** 2
50 Highwayman
-
HVS *  
51 Orient Express
-
E1 ***  
52 The Groin
-
E1 *  
53 Angel's Way * 6a+ *** 4
54 Devil' s Slide 2 *** 1
55 Devil's Slide * 6b *** 1
56 Unknown 6c+ 6c+ ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Lawrie Brand