Climbs 136
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 600m a.s.l
Faces SE

Crag features

These are the crags overlooking the "Grande Corniche" road as it winds down from La Turbie towards Monte Carlo. The climbing is very similar to the La Turbie crags. However, the routes are more varied, the bolting is friendlier, and the grades, in general, seem less severe. Some of the best climbs in Les Alpes Maritimes are located here.

Generally speaking, a lot of the crags offer shelter during rain, and they dry out quickly after rain, though any routes with tufas take longer (especially in Les Marches du Palais, which can seep for a long time once wet).

Ideal for climbing from early autumn through to late spring. It is possible to climb in the shade in summer, but expect it to be hot.

All styles are catered for: slabs, overleaning walls, edges, pockets, tufas and even upside down cave climbing.

Pitch lengths vary from 10 to 15m (Petit Palais), 20 to 25m (Le Palais) to about 30 to 35m (Alcatraz). Due to the friendly bolting, a large number of quick draws is helpful, so take 20 (including some long ones, to reduce rope drag).

Approach notes

Les Marches du Palais: Park at the large carpark on the left (driving downhill) uphill from "La Vista Palace Hotel". Walk 100m back up the road (taking care with the traffic) and take the path on the right (possible to park here), passing some derelict buildings and heading towards the obvious cave, 5 mins.

Petit Palais: Park at the same place and take the same path. However after approx 100m take the handline up the rocky slope. Continue steeply uphill, past some handlines, for about another 10 mins to arrive at the right hand end of the crag. Time: about 15 mins.

Le Palais: As for Petit Palais but pass this steeply on the right, then traverse upwards and left across the hillside above Petit Palais, to arrive at the hidden crag after about 30 mins in total. This is a very steep and difficult approach, so may take even longer.

Alcatraz and L'Evade: Parking is very difficult and restricted to a few places near the first pair of large bends, as you go downhill, about 500m uphill from the A8 maintenance access road (which has a large gate across it). Take great care when walking along the road as traffic is fast. After the lefthand bend, there is a concrete road on the left and space at the bottom for about 5 cars. Park here, or back up the road wherever possible. Follow the steep concrete road uphill. At the first left bend there is a small path on the right, follow this steeply uphill. The path eventually levels out and traverses rightwards across the hillside. Continue past the large metal safety nets (that protect the traffic below) and then steeply uphill through the trees. The path levels out again and continues right for about 200m to the end of a shady buttress of rock with a sign for L'Evade. Take the path uphill for Alcatraz, and down for L'Evade. Time: 15 to 20 mins. Voila!

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Le Palais
2 Le retour de l'enfant prodige
-
7a+  
3 In tartiflette we trust
-
7c  
4 Vini, vedi, vici
-
6c+ ** 2
5 Les mondes paralleles
-
7b  
6 Unknown Name
-
7c  
7 Gogo
-
8c ***  
8 Signal Ethique
-
8b+  
9 Est ce ainsi que les hommes vivent? 8a **  
10 En Attendant le Hubbert Peak
-
8a *** 1
11 La mort de Cesar
-
8a *** 1
12 Les boulets ne sont jamais seuls
-
7a+ ** 2
13 Avec vue sur l'horreur
-
7b+  
14 Le 6b de Thomas
-
7a  
15 Insatiable petite fouine
-
7c  
16 Poet-Poet
-
8b  
17 Le toit du Juste
-
8a **  
18 18m De Bonheur
-
7b *** 1
19 La mort du petit cheval
-
7c ** 1
20 Je ne pratique pas le tchintoisme
-
7b+ *** 2
21 Fin de siecle
-
7b *** 2
22 L'echequier du mal
-
7b ** 1
23 Erotica
-
7b * 1
24 Je t'emmene au vent
-
7c *** 1
25 Lucky Luke
-
7c ***  
26 C'est trop enorme
-
7c+  
27 Domaine public
-
7a ** 1
28 C'est enorme
-
7c  
29 Lou pitchoun
-
7a ** 1
30 Aux sombres heros de l'amer
-
7b+  
31 Annot ne s'en remettra
-
7c  
32 Trop bon trop con
-
6c ** 1
33 Ciao Dam's
-
6c+ * 1
  Les Marches du Palais
35 La Revolutionaire
-
7a+ ** 2
36 Arnaque A8 L1
-
6b * 3
37 Arnaque A8 L1 + L2
-
7b ** 1
38 L'homme faible du moment
-
7c+ *** 9
39 Nosferatu 8a *** 5
40 Connexion Democratie Nosferatu
-
8b ***  
41 La derniere jour du democratie
-
8b+ ***  
42 Connecting People
-
8a *** 1
43 Come On Democratie 7c *** 4
44 Come on Chris
-
7c *** 13
45 Qui dort Couine
-
7b+ *** 17
46 Une bonne raclee
-
7a+ ** 15
47 Sur des rails
-
7b ** 2
Climb name Grade
  le petit palais
49 Engage Ou Degage
-
8a+  
50 Saucisson Sauvage
-
7c  
51 Ouvreur Pas Fini
-
7b+  
52 Nice Climb
-
7b+ ** 1
53 Too Nice For You
-
7c  
54 Yo Momma
-
7c  
55 It's Up To You
-
7c+  
56 Ideal Pouf
-
7b * 1
57 Quel Trip Te Guette?
-
7c+ *** 1
58 Lolo Le Gros Poireau
-
7c ***  
59 Super Gladiator
-
7c ***  
60 Gladiator
-
7b+ *** 1
61 Le Retour De Mo
-
7c+ *  
62 Cent Contests
-
7c *  
63 L'adieu A Karine
-
7a+ *** 1
64 J'me Suis Fait
-
6c+ 1
  Alcatraz
66 Sian d'aqui
-
6c+ 1
67 Faut pas les avoir trop mou mon petit
-
7b  
68 Trop facile pour les ecureuils
-
7a+ 1
69 Athena
-
7b  
70 La traversedes anges L1
-
7a+  
71 La traversedes anges L1 + L2
-
8a  
72 L'etage du dessus
-
7c+  
73 C'n'est pas classique 7b+  
74 Voleur de voies
-
7c 5
75 Les pieds dans le plat
-
8a ** 3
76 Mont Fantasme
-
7c+ *** 3
77 Face Man
-
7a+ *** 2
78 Men In Black
-
7b 1
79 Le Circuit Pro
-
7b+ ** 5
80 Gramonet Assis Sur Un Tapis Volant Plein De Caca Boudin
-
7b ** 5
81 Sandric Au Mastic!
-
7a *** 9
82 Richou, where are you?
-
7b 4
83 Guillaume Le Grand
-
7c+ 2
84 Le 7a Berhault
-
7b+ 1
85 Vulvoplastie
-
6c ** 5
86 Monitrice D'excitation
-
7a+ 3
87 Oh Capitaine
-
6b 12
88 Boulet de l'espace
-
6c+ 5
89 Cromagnon triangulaire waterproof
-
7b+ 4
90 Unknown 6c+ * 1
91 Bonnes fêtes 6b+ ** 1
92 Tetris 6a ** 8
93 Lily La Petite Furie
-
5c *** 7
94 Pour les nains
-
6a+ *** 8
95 The Artist
-
6b 2
Climb name Grade
96 Jour blanc
-
5c *** 6
97 Le Petit Dictateur
-
6c+ 4
98 Capone
-
7b+ 1
99 Yoda
-
7a 4
100 Short Cut
-
8a+  
101 La Compete Des Poulettes
-
7a 3
102 Lopette Brownie
-
7a+ 5
103 Unknown 2 6c 2
104 Mediterranee
-
6c 3
105 Philosophe Antiartiste
-
7a+ *** 6
106 Mort De Points L1
-
6b+ ** 4
107 Mort De Points L1 + L2
-
7b+ 2
108 Investissement Long Terme L1
-
6a+ *** 3
109 Investissement Long Terme L1 + L2
-
6c+ *** 3
110 Frequence Mamouth
-
7a+ *** 6
111 Le Mur C'est Dur
-
7a 4
112 Velcro Humain L1
-
7a *** 5
113 Velcro Humain L1 + L2
-
7c *** 7
114 Les Points De Grenouille L1
-
7a *** 5
115 Les Points De Grenouille L1 + L2
-
7b+ *** 2
116 Les Bidochons Au Petit Palais
-
7b+ ** 3
117 Le 8a Pour Les Nuls L1
-
7a ** 5
118 Le 8a Pour Les Nuls L1 + L2
-
7c ** 2
119 De L'acide Dans Les Idees
-
7b+ *** 3
120 La technique de l'homme ivre
-
7a+ *** 3
121 La technique de l'homme a jeun
-
7b 1
  L'Évadé
123 1 8a  
124 2
-
7a+ 1
125 3
-
6b ** 4
126 Djihadieu
-
7b  
127 Imam.....
-
6c ** 2
128 6
-
6c+ * 2
129 7 7c  
130 8
-
6b+ * 4
131 Clint Eastwood
-
7a+ ** 1
132 Bourkatastrophe
-
7a *** 3
133 11 7a+ * 2
134 12
-
7b+ ** 2
135 Connexion 12/Colt 45
-
7c+  
136 Colt 45 8a ** 1
137 Daécharge 7c+ 1
138 Alkaida
-
7c ** 2
139 Les bocaux...
-
7a+ *** 2
140 17
-
6c ** 1
  Arete des Hirondelles
142 Arete des Hirondelles D- ** 1

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