Climbs 209
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 235m a.s.l
Faces all

Mike Owen, Action Discrete, Secteur Le Discret (St Cezaire), Alpes Maritimes, France. © Nicolas Lesage

Crag features

It is posible to climb all year, although it can be humid in December and January, due to the close proximity of the river. The crags offer some of the best tufa climbing in the south of France. However, there are some big runouts (apparently recently requipped: MO 9/3/12) on the original north-facing secteur (accessed by the via ferratta).

Approach notes

There are topos and a map on Niceclimb.com and jegrimpe.com (under "Olivier Germain").

All these cliffs, generally called "St Cezaire", are located in the bottom of the valley approximately 5km between St Cezaire and Mons along the D105.

The first 3 are located approximately 200m before the bridge crossing the river "Siagne", where a small roads branches to the right underneath some very big cliffs: Secteur Roi du 7/Bruno is immediately above; Secteur EDF (you need to be discreet here, but climbing is tolerated) is just after the metal gate, 200m further on, barring access by car (park just before it on the left); Kalymnos is found by following the road on foot from the EDF parking until, just after the big house, a path on the right ascends upwards, turn left immediately after the 2nd bend (level with the roof of the house) and traverse northwards for approx 100 to 200m then up to the cliff, via one in situ handline.

The other 3 cliffs are located either side of the river "Siagnole" by following a path on the left bank for 500m and either traversing the river (for the south facing secteur) or by ascending the hillside and a short via ferrata. Park your car just after the bridge over the "Siagne" at the road junction. Parking can get busy here at weekends in summers due to family picknics.

Secteur Jean Marc Genevois is above the car park for Secteur EDF: a path leads up steeply opposite the left end of the parking, then traverses right under a cliff to eventually reach a chain, then up and back left passing another chain and eventually arriving at the right side of the cliff after about 10 mins.

Le Discret is about a 30 minute walk and quite complicated to get to without help from a local. See the map to locate parking (please don't block the road). From the barrier take the uphill fork, then skirt left below the hydro-electric station over a metal bridge and up the hill to the canal. Follow the path besides the wall for a kilometre or so (the path goes up and down several times) to arrive at a steep uphill section. After a couple of minutes the path goes back down hill.Take the worn (but easy to miss) path that doubles back on the left. Follow this steeply down hill, past lots of hand lines to arrive at the crag. The crag is in the shade until around 2pm, so is best in spring and autumn.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Le Royaume du Sept - Secteur Bruno (St Cezire 6)
2 Route 1
-
7b *  
3 Route 2
-
7b **  
4 Route 3
-
7a *** 1
5 Route 4
-
7b+ *** 2
6 Route 5
-
7a+ *** 1
7 Route 6
-
7b+ *** 1
8 Route 7
-
7a+ *** 1
9 Route 8
-
7b *** 1
10 Route 9
-
7c+ ** 1
11 Route 10
-
7b+ ** 1
12 Route 11
-
7c ** 1
13 Route 12 7b+ * 1
14 Route 13
-
7b+ *  
15 Route 14 7b *** 1
16 Route 15 7a *  
17 Route 16 7a+ **  
18 Route 17
-
7a *** 2
19 Route 18 7b *** 2
20 Route 19
-
7b ** 1
21 Route 20
-
6c ** 2
  Secteur EDF (St Cezaire 1)
23 Unknown Name 1
-
6c+ *  
24 Unknown Name 2
-
5c *  
25 Unknown Name 3
-
6b+ ** 3
26 Unknown Name 4 7a * 3
27 L'Eveil
-
7b+ ** 1
28 Unknown Name 5
-
7c *** 2
29 Unknown Name 6 7b *** 2
30 Resistanzia 8b ***  
31 Unknown Name 7 7b ** 1
32 Le Bal des Vampires 7b+ *** 2
33 Twist Again 7c+ *** 1
34 Twist a Bras 8a ** 1
35 A Bras Qu'a des Bras 8a+ *  
36 AC/DC
-
7b ** 1
37 Unknown Name 8
-
7c  
  Secteur Kalymnos (St Cezaire 4)
39 Ce Bourrin D'Antonin
-
7b+ * 1
40 Stupeur et Tremblements
-
8a+ * 2
41 Connexion Girl 7b *** 1
42 Quelle Aventure
-
6c * 1
43 La Pieuvre
-
7b *** 2
44 Shamallow Shoes
-
7a+ *** 4
45 Search les Prises 7c+ ** 2
46 Cendrillon Today 7c+ * 1
47 Fidgy, c mon amie 6c *** 5
48 Ferraro Rocher
-
7c ** 1
49 Arts Plastocs 7b+ * 1
50 Vers la Lune
-
8a *  
51 Objective Zero
-
7b+ * 1
  Face Sud (St Cezaire 2)
53 Climb 1 6b+ 1
54 Climb 2 5c 1
55 Climb 3 6c *  
56 Climb 4 7c ** 1
57 Climb 5 7c+ ** 1
58 La deuxieme voie de Titi
-
8a ** 1
59 La premier voie de Titi 8a *** 1
60 Climb 6 7b+ **  
61 Climb 7 7b *** 1
62 Colo Re 6c+ *** 1
63 Climb 9 7a+ *** 1
64 Climb 10
-
7b+ *** 1
65 Climb 11
-
7b *** 1
66 Climb 12 7a+ *** 1
67 Climb 13 7b * 1
68 Climb 14 8a *  
69 Climb 15 7c  
70 Climb 16 7b *** 1
71 Petite Enterprise 7a+ ** 1
72 Climb 17 7b * 1
73 Climb 18
-
7a+ ** 1
74 Climb 19 7c *** 1
75 Climb 20 7c ** 1
76 Climb 21
-
7a *** 1
77 Climb 22
-
6c+ * 1
78 Climb 23
-
7b * 1
79 Climb 24
-
7b * 1
80 Climb 25
-
7b *** 1
81 Climb 26 7a+ *** 1
  Face Nord: En Haut (St Cezaire 3)
83 Gregouillette
-
7a  
84 Granytorex
-
7b+ *  
85 Ca Gratte Et Ca Passe
-
7c ** 1
86 Charlie Go
-
7c *  
87 Titi Et Gros Minet
-
7c+ ** 1
88 Judas Mon Guide
-
7c *** 1
89 Tuscanosaure 7c+ *  
90 Master Killer 7c+ *** 1
91 Sublime Demensia 8a *** 2
92 Devine Intervention Direct 8a **  
93 Devine Intervention 7c+ *** 1
94 Partie Cachee 8b+ ***  
95 Attitude 8a+ *** 1
96 Coup De Boule Project  
97 Symphonie Et Destruction
-
8b ** 1
98 Chaud Crane
-
8a *** 2
99 Massacre Au C100 7b *** 2
100 La Fou Moi La 7a ** 2
101 Cent Peur Et Sangliers
-
7a * 1
102 Falaise A Brutes 7a+ *** 2
103 Les Milles Secousses 7b ** 2
  Face Nord: En Bas (St Cezaire 5)
105 Not Known
-
5c  
106 Again Unknown
-
6b+  
107 4eme Etoile
-
6b+ * 1
108 L'Anello Magico
-
7a+  
109 Le Fossile 7b+ * 2
110 Luna Cool 6b *** 6
111 Comme Des Pas Qui S'eloignent
-
6c+ *** 4
112 Nouveau Niveau
-
7a ** 7
113 Voie 9
-
7a ** 4
114 Les Ours Sont-ils Maniaques?
-
7b *** 5
115 Joystick
-
7c ** 2
116 Il Naso D'argento Project  
117 L'Ethique Au Tacquet
-
7c+ ** 2
118 Terreur Nocturne 7c+ *** 2
119 Les Bertots En Vacances 8b *  
120 Bord De Levre 8b *  
121 D'Est En Ouest
-
8a+ *** 2
122 Scorpions
-
8a *** 2
123 Marcsupitami
-
7a+ *** 5
124 Meme depart de Marcsupilami
-
7a+ * 1
125 Toute Le Bonheur Du Monde
-
7a * 4
  Le Discret
127 La Révolution des Flanby
-
6c 1
128 Pour Une Poignee De Sel
-
7a * 1
129 Moody L1
-
6c  
130 Moody L1 + L2
-
8a  
131 C'est dément
-
6c+ *** 1
132 Vent De Terre L1
-
6c ** 1
133 Vent De Terre L1 + L2
-
7c+ ** 1
134 Rectification L1
-
6c+ * 1
135 Rectification L1 + L2 8a  
136 L'erreur est humaine 7c 1
137 Chapeau Pointu
-
6b+ ** 4
138 Chapeau Pointu L1 + L2 8a 1
139 La Lune comme une etoile de Mer L1
-
6c  
140 La Lune comme une Etoile de Mer L1 + L2
-
7a  
141 La Lune comme une Etoile de Mer L1 + L2 + L3 8a+  
142 Le bonne cause L1
-
5c  
143 Le bonne cause L1 + L2 7a+  
144 Douche froide L1
-
5c  
145 Douche froide L1 + L2 (sortie gauche)
-
8a  
146 Douche froide L1 + L2 (sortie directe)
-
8a+  
147 El Percolator 8a+  
148 Culbuto L1
-
6c  
149 Culbuto L1 + L2 8a+  
150 You fuck my rope 7c  
151 La Taille Ça Compton L1
-
7b+  
152 La Taille Ça Compton L1 + L2
-
8b  
153 L'homme de Vénus
-
8b  
154 Et clac le doigt L1
-
8a+  
155 Et clac le doigt L1 + l2 8a+  
156 Le Diable Est Dans Les Details 8a+ *** 2
157 Inch of dust L1 7c+ *** 2
158 Inch of dust L1 + L2 8a *** 2
159 Hilti Base Jump L1 8a *** 2
160 Hilti Base Jump L1 + L2
-
8a+ ***  
161 Action Discréte L1
-
7a+ ** 2
162 Action Discréte L1+ L2
-
7c ** 1
163 Polisson Avenue L1
-
5a 1
164 Polisson Avenue L1 + L2
-
7b+ ** 1
165 Faut pas étre cardiaque
-
7b  
  Secteur Jean Marc Genevois
167 Nell
-
6b+ * 2
168 Bas le Voile
-
6b * 1
169 Un Monde Imparfait
-
7a+  
170 OGM, Non Merci
-
6b+ *** 4
171 Les Lois du Marches L1
-
7a ** 2
172 Les Lois du Marches L1 + L2 7c ***  
173 Au Bonheur des Gammes
-
7a *** 1
174 Grimpe et Basta
-
6c+  
175 Pane, Amore et Fantasia
-
6c+  
176 M'en Bati Sieu Nissart
-
6c+  
177 Vous Etes Ce Que Vous Grimpez
-
7a  
178 Restons Motive L1
-
6c+  
179 Restons Motive L1 + L2
-
7c+  
180 Et Un, Et Deux, Et Trois Essais L1
-
7a * 1
181 Et Un, Et Deux, Et Trois Essais L1 + L2
-
7b+ *** 1
182 Grimpe Attitude L1
-
7a+ * 1
183 Grimpe Attitude L1 +L2
-
7b ** 1
184 Prenons de la Hauteur L1
-
6c+  
185 Prenons de la Hauteur L1 + L2
-
7a+  
186 Terra Incognita
-
7b  
187 Les Souliers de Jean
-
7b  
  Les Malines
189 Symphonie de Printemps 6b 4
190 Le Grand Demenagement 5a 2
191 La Memoire et la Mer 6a+ 4
192 Aligators 117 6a+ 2
193 Impasse Kadavresky 6c+ 5
194 Maeta 6a 4
195 Fourmidable 6a 4
196 Arrhes du bonheur
-
6b+ 1
197 Enfin la plague
-
5c 2
198 Le lion du panshir
-
7a ** 3
199 Helly holy mekanik quantik
-
7a ** 1
200 La colère d'Eole
-
5a * 1
201 GSXF 750
-
7a * 1
202 Bleau, ça colle!
-
7a+ *** 1
203 Blondin
-
5c * 1
  Village
205 La lune comme une etoile de mer
-
7a ** 1
206 Nee Sous X 6b 2
207 Tire Pas Trop Fort
-
5c 3
208 Les Guerrieres Rouges 6b+ 2
209 Meditation Sentimentale 6c 1
210 Waldo 4b 1
211 Climb 2 (Le Village) 6a 1
212 Arque en ciel 7b 1
213 Mato 6c 1
214 Vol au-dessus de la Siagne 7a 1
215 Climb 12 (le Village) 7a+ 1
216 Vitamine B52
-
6b 1
217 Robin 6a 1
218 Siame 5c 1
219 Le Def 6a+ 1

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