UKC

Climbs 246
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 2m a.s.l
Faces S

Nearing the finish of Beati... © goi.ashmore

Crag features

There are two sections of cliffs. The tidal island itself, which has some sections of good rock on the South face and Swanbridge, on the mainland side, a little further East than the East end of the island itself. 

The crag was visited by Phill Thomas, Andy Sharp and others in the early 1970s but no records of ascents were kept - most of the obvious routes will have been climbed then, so if you have first ascent information, or have done the routes before 2010, please claim and name and they will be adjusted so. The bouldering is new.

It is mostly a bouldering spot with a mix of rock types, both soft red sandstone and hard grey limestone. The bouldering is on the limestone with occasional use of the sandstone for footholds.

Swanbridge itself is sea-washed about an hour either side of higher high tides only. It consists of an excellent bench of very sharp crystalline rock with some good long traverses and a 15ft slab off to the East. It is accessed by walking East along slabs from Swanbridge beach. The bouldering keeps strictly off the red sandsone band for footholds unless specifically mentioned.

 

 

Approach notes

Sully Island is accessed via a natural tidal causeway, which disappears extremely quickly once the tide starts to rise. Visitors should check the tide times carefully, bearing in mind that it takes about 15 minutes to cross back to the mainland. Usually a safe window is about 2.5 hours either side of low. From the Penarth to Sully road, turn down the Swanbridge road sign posted to the Captain's Wife and park there to access the beach.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

Impression of some easier problems from 2012 : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZw9NFWSncY
joepremier - 29/Oct/14
This is a nice crag. Revidi is a great traverse. Well worth a look
fyfee8a - 18/Jul/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sully Island
  Union Barons
3 Cerith's Vein D 2
4 Arthur Scargill f5 2
5 Hugh Scanlon f6A * 1
6 Jack Jones f6C * 1
7 Jimmy Knapp f6A+ * 1
  Viscount Stansgate
9 Post Office Tower f5 * 1
  Barbara Castle
11 Breathalyser f3+ 1
12 Motorway Speed Limit f4 1
13 Jack Straw f5+ * 1
14 In Place Of Strife f5 1
15 Jeremy Corbyn f4 1
  Dennis Healey
17 Savaged By A Dead Sheep V1 5b 1
18 Joe's Arete
-
f5+ 1
19 TR-2 f5+ 1
20 Practical Old Bruiser V1 5b 1
21 Joe's Roof f6A * 1
  Froggatt Ledge
23 Clown's Eliminate S 1
24 Hot Chives VS 5a ** 1
25 The Sully Joke f5+ * 1
26 Spartacus Ring Your Mother! f5+ * 1
27 Blow Jest VD 1
28 Benign Chives HD * 1
29 Sole Doubt VD 1
30 Narcissicist VD 1
31 Downhill Razor f4+ 1
  Joe's Garage
33 Joe's Garage Act I V0- * 1
34 Joe's Garage Act II V0- 4a 1
35 Joe's Garage Act III V0+ 5a * 1
36 Latent Appliance Fetishist S 4a 1
  Cerith's Boulder
38 Does The Pope Slab In The Woods? f4 1
39 He Came, He Saw, He Slabbed In The Woods f5 4
40 Are Bears Catholic? f5+ 1
  Flying Crag
42 Russell's Teapot HS 5b * 1
43 Russell Grant's Teapot VD 1
44 Martian Crocker's Flying Circus VS 5b * 1
45 Monster's Inc f7B * 1
46 Don't Fear The Rhi-fer E1 5c * 1
47 Rhi Per Bahn f4+ 1
48 Rhi-naissance VS 4c ** 1
49 Rhi-Mergence E2 5b *** 1
  West End
51 Ministry Of Sully Walks S 4c 1
  The Parallel Egerton
53 I Wept For Alec Trench f5 * 1
54 I Saved Jason King f5 * 1
  Roy Of The Roaches
56 Brassieres In Time VD * 1
57 Reset Portion Of Gallery 69 HS 4a ** 1
58 Recent Porking in Gallery of 69s S 1
59 Eugene's Adze VD 1
60 Via Surfer Rosa VD 1
61 Val Qui Rie S 1
62 Slings Of Unreason D * 1
63 A Fistful Of Chris' Stools D 1
64 Duog! VD 1
  Chee Dale Mk II
66 6.9 Pounds Overweight HVD 1
67 The Sea Has A 5p Surcharge VD * 1
68 Stone The Roach S 1
69 Put Nicola Sturgeon Back In Her Cupboard HS 4a 1
70 Chee Tor Girdle Traverse III HS 4b 1
71 Cistern Malfunction S * 1
72 Daylight Snobbery VD 1
73 Floored By The Pies f6A * 1
74 The Okra f3+ 1
75 Golden Bile f4+ 1
76 Whales Of The Riverbank f5 1
77 Incremental Alabaster f5 * 1
78 Darl Pitch 3 f4 1
79 Battered By Water Wings f3 1
80 Naive And Sentimental Scrubber f6A+ * 1
81 General Impertinence D 1
82 Major Insouciance M 1
83 Lethal Doze f5 1
84 Lies Of A Stickleback f4 1
85 Tenth Life D 1
86 Seven Tons Overweight f4 * 1
  Bedsit
88 Carpentry S * 1
89 Pedwar M 1
90 Gravel M 1
91 Pet Wasp M 1
92 Uncle Denzil D 1
93 Second Most Famous Living Welsh Poet VD * 1
94 Siadwell S * 1
Climb name Grade
  The Queen Of Wales
96 Kirk Spartacus Jones f4 * 2
97 Catherine Spartacus Jones f5 ** 2
98 Michael Spartacus Jones f4+ * 2
99 Eugene Traverse-Jones f4+ * 2
  Howard Marks
101 Gamma Gamma Gamma Gamma Gamma Chameleon 5b * 2
102 Hamilton McMillan f6A * 1
103 Donald Nice f6B 1
104 Howard Marks f4 1
105 Rho Rho Rho Your Boat f4 * 2
  Pub Quiz
107 Frank Hovis f5 1
108 Sophia Gardens f5+ * 1
  Donkey Hotey
110 Facts Are The Enemy Of Truth f6B * 1
  Fishguard
112 Geraint Pillock f5+ * 1
113 Mrs Hideous f6A * 1
114 Hugh Pugh S 4b 1
115 Kenny Twatt HS 4a 1
116 Barry Welsh D 1
  Grumbly
118 Grumbly And District Choral Society HVS 5c 1
119 Ivor The Engine VD 2
120 Jones The Steam VD * 1
121 Idris The Dragon HVD 1
122 Dai Station HVD 1
  Fastback
124 2St8 The Obvious f5 1
125 Look At the St8 of U f4 1
126 G8s of Delirium V0- 1
127 Over w8 And Out of d8 M 1
128 Llwelyn The Gr8 D 1
129 I H8s You Fastback D 1
130 Battle Of The River Pl8 f5 * 1
  1990
132 The 1990 Problem f5+ * 1
133 Shadowing The Deutschemark f5 1
134 Security Council Resolution 678 f3+ 1
  Hibernia Boulder
136 Ad Hiberniam Non Veniam f6A * 2
137 Ad Hiberniam Mihi Venendum f5+ 2
  Reveni Boulder
139 Esse Vel Essene D 2
140 Eram Quod Es, Eris Quod Sum f4 2
141 Es Quod Es f4+ * 3
142 Esne Es Quod Sit f4 1
143 Dai Iactus Est V2 5c 3
144 Backblock Traverse f6B 6
145 Inter Caecos Regnat Strabo f7A+ * 1
146 Autem Et Super f6B+ * 1
147 Backblock Arete f6A 6a * 8
148 Ut Mihi Non Tenues f7A * 1
149 Ut Mihi Non Tenues (Hanging Start) f7A+ * 1
150 Finis Coronat Opus f7A+ 6c * 1
151 Maledixi f7A * 1
152 Maledixis f7A+ * 1
153 Maledixit 7c * 1
154 Malediximus 7c * 1
155 Maledixitis 7c+ ** 1
156 Maledixerunt! 8a ** 1
157 Cogitavisti Valedixissem f7A+ ** 1
158 Ava Repens f7A * 1
159 Ava Scandens 7c+ ** 1
160 Ava Saltans 7c+ ** 1
161 Ava Ambulens 7c+ * 1
162 Nemo me impecunia lacessit V2 5c 4
163 Per Otium, Progressus Sum V3 * 6
164 Implicari! V4 * 4
165 Canis Malus Iterum Fugit! 6b+ * 18
166 Puella Maior Minorem Vorat 7a * 1
167 Venare Canem! 7a+ * 1
168 What's Weetabix in Latin? V0 6
169 Caeci Erant V2 3
170 Beati Silures Quibus Bibere Vivere Est 7b+ *** 5
171 Maledicti Ordovices Quibus Respirare Praequeri Est 7c ** 1
172 Brigantes into Recessi 7b ** 1
173 Brigantes Into Revidi 7b+ ** 1
174 Revidi, Reveni, Revici 7b ** 12
175 Horum Omnium Fortissimi Sunt Brigantes (easy version) 7c ** 1
176 Horum Omnium Fortissimi Sunt Brigantes 7c+ *** 1
177 Septentrio Maestus Est 7c+ ** 1
178 Omnes Trans Omnia 7c+ ** 1
179 Veni, Vidi, Recessi 7a+ * 15
180 Silures Saltant Sobri Nec f5+ * 2
181 Non Fluctuat, Nec Mergitur Hic f3+ 2
182 Semper Idem Nonnumquam, Vidisne f6A+ 3
183 Ystradgynlais Delendum Est f3 2
184 Reverse Of Ava Scandens 7c ** 1
185 Reverse of Revidi 7b * 1
186 Reverse of Beati 7b+ * 1
187 Reverse of Brigantes
-
7c * 1
188 Reverse of Omnes Trans Omnia
-
7c+ * 1
189 Reverse of Recessi
-
7a+ * 1
Climb name Grade
190 Reverse of Puella Maior
-
7a+ 1
191 Reverse Of Canis Malus
-
6c * 1
  Catatonia Wall
193 Things Are Getting Strange D 4
194 I'm Starting To Worry HD 2
195 This Could Be A Case VD 1
196 For Mulder And Sully! S * 1
197 Road Rage VS 5a * 1
198 When Barry Met Sully D 1
  Aberdaberdare
200 Matt's Route 2 HVS 5b * 1
201 Matt's Route 1 HVS 5b * 1
202 Where Eagles Aberdare E2 5b * 1
  Merthyr She Wrote
204 Jape Of The Furry Country VS 5a 1
205 The Pandy Clock HVS 5a * 2
206 Crawshay's Castle E1 5b * 2
207 Merthyr On The Orient Express VD * 1
208 Dowlais Flop VS 5a * 2
209 Breakout f5 * 3
210 Take Her Up The Blorenge VS 5a 1
211 Breakaway f6A * 3
212 Call Canute! E1 5a 1
  Twin Town Sector
214 He Wanted To Be Buried At Sea, See? S 4a * 1
215 Who? S 4a 1
216 Fatty M 1
217 He Wanted To Be Buried At Sea! S 1
218 Good Old Boy, Fatty VD 1
219 Fuck Off Back To Noddy Land! E1 5a ** 1
220 Captain Says A Few Words f6A+ * 1
221 Bit Of A Sing Song f6A 1
222 In With The Sharks! 7a * 1
223 Nice Pot Of Sticky-Sticky VS 4c 1
224 Get Yer Own Fucking Glue! VS 4c * 1
  Bananarama
226 Bananarama's Wiemaraner's Panamanian Panorama f2+ 1
  Bummed
228 Country Song HS 4c 1
229 Moving In With VS 4c * 1
230 Mad Cyril VS 4c * 1
231 Fat Lady Wrestlers VS 4c * 1
232 Performance VS 4c 1
233 Brain Dead VS 5a 1
234 Lazyitis f6A ** 1
235 RH Start to Lazyitis (needs a name) f6B+  
  Guest Informant
237 Guest Informant f6A * 1
  Plinth Boulder
239 Beware The IDS Of March! f6A+ * 1
240 The Panama Papers f6B * 1
  The Red Zone
242 Captain Hook f6B+ * 1
  Aquatic Carnivore Of Cetecean Lineage
244 Pete Hook f7A * 1
245 Konnie Huq f6B 1
  East End
247 She Was A Girl From Birmingham f5+ 1
  Swanbridge
249 Australians In Europe f6A * 1
  1914 Bench
251 Haelen Bridge f7A * 4
252 Yser 7c ** 3
253 Race To The Sea 7c+ *** 1
254 Charleroi V4+ * 5
255 The Marne 7b * 3
256 The Retreat From Mons 7b * 6
257 The Aisne 7b+ ** 2
258 Le Cateau 7a+ * 12
259 Smith-Dorrien V3 * 12
260 Enola Gay f7A * 1
261 Fat Man 7c ** 2
262 Window Lickers Of The World Unite And Take Over 7c ** 1
263 The Strange Death Of Liberal England 7c+ ** 1
264 Bockscar 7b * 2
265 Little Boy V4 4
266 Rhiw De Sully f6B 1
267 Roux De Sully f6A+ 1
268 Rue de Sully V3 6a * 3
269 Second Septermberprogramm For Juncker f6C * 2
270 Petit-Croix f6C * 1
271 Mons f5 6
272 With General French 7a+ * 2
273 One Way Ticket To Troisvierges Station f6B+ * 1
274 Sully Cat V2 6a 2
275 First Ypres V3 6a 3
276 Unamed V2 5c * 3
277 Panthersprung V2 5c 4
  Slabs Area
279 Sully Arete V0- 4c 13
280 Sully View Slab f5 ** 20
281 Sully Buggers V1 5c * 7
282 Sully Bully V0+ 5b 7
283 Far Too Sully V2 6
284 Stop That! It's Sully! f4 2

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