Climbs 244
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 2m a.s.l
Faces S

Nearing the finish of Beati... © goi.ashmore

Crag features

There are two sections of cliffs. The tidal island itself, which has some sections of good rock on the South face and Swanbridge, on the mainland side, a little further East than the East end of the island itself. 

The crag was visited by Phill Thomas, Andy Sharp and others in the early 1970s but no records of ascents were kept - most of the obvious routes will have been climbed then, so if you have first ascent information, or have done the routes before 2010, please claim and name and they will be adjusted so. The bouldering is new.

It is mostly a bouldering spot with a mix of rock types, both soft red sandstone and hard grey limestone. The bouldering is on the limestone with occasional use of the sandstone for footholds.

Swanbridge itself is sea-washed about an hour either side of higher high tides only. It consists of an excellent bench of very sharp crystalline rock with some good long traverses and a 15ft slab off to the East. It is accessed by walking East along slabs from Swanbridge beach. The bouldering keeps strictly off the red sandsone band for footholds unless specifically mentioned.

 

 

Approach notes

Sully Island is accessed via a natural tidal causeway, which disappears extremely quickly once the tide starts to rise. Visitors should check the tide times carefully, bearing in mind that it takes about 15 minutes to cross back to the mainland. Usually a safe window is about 2.5 hours either side of low. From the Penarth to Sully road, turn down the Swanbridge road sign posted to the Captain's Wife and park there to access the beach.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

Impression of some easier problems from 2012 : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZw9NFWSncY
joepremier - 29/Oct/14
This is a nice crag. Revidi is a great traverse. Well worth a look
fyfee8a - 18/Jul/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sully Island
  Union Barons
3 Cerith's Vein D 2
4 Arthur Scargill f5 2
5 Hugh Scanlon f6A * 1
6 Jack Jones f6C * 1
7 Jimmy Knapp f6A+ * 1
  Viscount Stansgate
9 Post Office Tower f5 * 1
  Barbara Castle
11 Breathalyser f3+ 1
12 Motorway Speed Limit f4 1
13 Jack Straw f5+ * 1
14 In Place Of Strife f5 1
15 Jeremy Corbyn f4 1
  Dennis Healey
17 Savaged By A Dead Sheep V1 5b 1
18 Joe's Arete
-
f5+ 1
19 TR-2 f5+ 1
20 Practical Old Bruiser V1 5b 1
21 Joe's Roof f6A * 1
  Froggatt Ledge
23 Clown's Eliminate S 1
24 Hot Chives VS 5a ** 1
25 The Sully Joke f5+ * 1
26 Spartacus Ring Your Mother! f5+ * 1
27 Blow Jest VD 1
28 Benign Chives HD * 1
29 Sole Doubt VD 1
30 Narcissicist VD 1
31 Downhill Razor f4+ 1
  Joe's Garage
33 Joe's Garage Act I V0- * 1
34 Joe's Garage Act II V0- 4a 1
35 Joe's Garage Act III V0+ 5a * 1
  Cerith's Boulder
37 Does The Pope Slab In The Woods? f4 1
38 He Came, He Saw, He Slabbed In The Woods f5 4
39 Are Bears Catholic? f5+ 1
  Flying Crag
41 Russell's Teapot HS 5b * 1
42 Russell Grant's Teapot VD 1
43 Martian Crocker's Flying Circus VS 5b * 1
44 Monster's Inc f7B * 1
45 Don't Fear The Rhi-fer E1 5c * 1
46 Rhi Per Bahn f4+ 1
47 Rhi-naissance VS 4c ** 1
48 Rhi-Mergence E2 5b *** 1
  West End
50 Ministry Of Sully Walks S 4c 1
  The Parallel Egerton
52 I Wept For Alec Trench f5 * 1
53 I Saved Jason King f5 * 1
  Roy Of The Roaches
55 Brassieres In Time VD * 1
56 Reset Portion Of Gallery 69 HS 4a ** 1
57 Recent Porking in Gallery of 69s S 1
58 Eugene's Adze VD 1
59 Via Surfer Rosa VD 1
60 Val Qui Rie S 1
61 Slings Of Unreason D * 1
62 A Fistful Of Chris' Stools D 1
63 Duog! VD 1
  Chee Dale Mk II
65 6.9 Pounds Overweight HVD 1
66 The Sea Has A 5p Surcharge VD * 1
67 Stone The Roach S 1
68 Put Nicola Sturgeon Back In Her Cupboard HS 4a 1
69 Chee Tor Girdle Traverse III HS 4b 1
70 Cistern Malfunction S * 1
71 Daylight Snobbery VD 1
72 Floored By The Pies f6A * 1
73 The Okra f3+ 1
74 Golden Bile f4+ 1
75 Whales Of The Riverbank f5 1
76 Incremental Alabaster f5 * 1
77 Darl Pitch 3 f4 1
78 Battered By Water Wings f3 1
79 Naive And Sentimental Scrubber f6A+ * 1
80 General Impertinence D 1
81 Major Insouciance M 1
82 Lethal Doze f5 1
83 Lies Of A Stickleback f4 1
84 Tenth Life D 1
85 Seven Tons Overweight f4 * 1
  Bedsit
87 Carpentry S * 1
88 Pedwar M 1
89 Gravel M 1
90 Pet Wasp M 1
91 Uncle Denzil D 1
92 Second Most Famous Living Welsh Poet VD * 1
93 Siadwell S * 1
  The Queen Of Wales
95 Kirk Spartacus Jones f4 * 2
96 Catherine Spartacus Jones f5 ** 2
97 Michael Spartacus Jones f4+ * 2
98 Eugene Traverse-Jones f4+ * 2
  Howard Marks
100 Gamma Gamma Gamma Gamma Gamma Chameleon 5b * 2
101 Hamilton McMillan f6A * 1
102 Donald Nice f6B 1
103 Howard Marks f4 1
104 Rho Rho Rho Your Boat f4 * 2
  Pub Quiz
106 Frank Hovis f5 1
107 Sophia Gardens f5+ * 1
  Donkey Hotey
109 Facts Are The Enemy Of Truth f6B * 1
  Fishguard
111 Geraint Pillock f5+ * 1
112 Mrs Hideous f6A * 1
113 Hugh Pugh S 4b 1
114 Kenny Twatt HS 4a 1
115 Barry Welsh D 1
  Grumbly
117 Grumbly And District Choral Society HVS 5c 1
118 Ivor The Engine VD 2
119 Jones The Steam VD * 1
120 Idris The Dragon HVD 1
121 Dai Station HVD 1
  Fastback
123 2St8 The Obvious f5 1
124 Look At the St8 of U f4 1
125 G8s of Delirium V0- 1
126 Over w8 And Out of d8 M 1
127 Llwelyn The Gr8 D 1
128 I H8s You Fastback D 1
129 Battle Of The River Pl8 f5 * 1
  1990
131 The 1990 Problem f5+ * 1
132 Shadowing The Deutschemark f5 1
133 Security Council Resolution 678 f3+ 1
  Hibernia Boulder
135 Ad Hiberniam Non Veniam f6A * 2
136 Ad Hiberniam Mihi Venendum f5+ 2
  Reveni Boulder
138 Esse Vel Essene D 2
139 Eram Quod Es, Eris Quod Sum f4 2
140 Es Quod Es f4+ * 3
141 Esne Es Quod Sit f4 1
142 Dai Iactus Est V2 5c 3
143 Backblock Traverse f6B 5
144 Inter Caecos Regnat Strabo f7A+ * 1
145 Autem Et Super f6B+ * 1
146 Backblock Arete f6A 6a * 8
147 Ut Mihi Non Tenues f7A * 1
148 Ut Mihi Non Tenues (Hanging Start) f7A+ * 1
149 Finis Coronat Opus f7A+ 6c * 1
150 Maledixi f7A * 1
151 Maledixis f7A+ * 1
152 Maledixit 7c * 1
153 Malediximus 7c * 1
154 Maledixitis 7c+ ** 1
155 Maledixerunt! 8a ** 1
156 Cogitavisti Valedixissem f7A+ ** 1
157 Ava Repens f7A * 1
158 Ava Scandens 7c+ ** 1
159 Ava Saltans 7c+ ** 1
160 Ava Ambulens 7c+ * 1
161 Nemo me impecunia lacessit V2 5c 4
162 Per Otium, Progressus Sum V3 * 5
163 Implicari! V4 * 4
164 Canis Malus Iterum Fugit! 6b+ * 17
165 Puella Maior Minorem Vorat 7a * 1
166 Venare Canem! 7a+ * 1
167 What's Weetabix in Latin? V0 6
168 Caeci Erant V2 3
169 Beati Silures Quibus Bibere Vivere Est 7b+ *** 5
170 Maledicti Ordovices Quibus Respirare Praequeri Est 7c ** 1
171 Brigantes into Recessi 7b ** 1
172 Brigantes Into Revidi 7b+ ** 1
173 Revidi, Reveni, Revici 7b ** 12
174 Horum Omnium Fortissimi Sunt Brigantes (easy version) 7c ** 1
175 Horum Omnium Fortissimi Sunt Brigantes 7c+ *** 1
176 Septentrio Maestus Est 7c+ ** 1
177 Omnes Trans Omnia 7c+ ** 1
178 Veni, Vidi, Recessi 7a+ * 15
179 Silures Saltant Sobri Nec f5+ * 2
180 Non Fluctuat, Nec Mergitur Hic f3+ 2
181 Semper Idem Nonnumquam, Vidisne f6A+ 2
182 Ystradgynlais Delendum Est f3 2
183 Reverse Of Ava Scandens 7c ** 1
184 Reverse of Revidi 7b * 1
185 Reverse of Beati 7b+ * 1
186 Reverse of Brigantes
-
7c * 1
187 Reverse of Omnes Trans Omnia
-
7c+ * 1
188 Reverse of Recessi
-
7a+ * 1
189 Reverse of Puella Maior
-
7a+ 1
190 Reverse Of Canis Malus
-
6c * 1
  Catatonia Wall
192 Things Are Getting Strange D 4
193 I'm Starting To Worry HD 2
194 This Could Be A Case VD 1
195 For Mulder And Sully! S * 1
196 Road Rage VS 5a * 1
197 When Barry Met Sully D 1
  Aberdaberdare
199 Matt's Route 2 HVS 5b * 1
200 Matt's Route 1 HVS 5b * 1
201 Where Eagles Aberdare E2 5b * 1
  Merthyr She Wrote
203 Jape Of The Furry Country VS 5a 1
204 The Pandy Clock HVS 5a * 2
205 Crawshay's Castle E1 5b * 2
206 Merthyr On The Orient Express VD * 1
207 Dowlais Flop VS 5a * 2
208 Breakout f5 * 3
209 Take Her Up The Blorenge VS 5a 1
210 Breakaway f6A * 3
211 Call Canute! E1 5a 1
  Twin Town Sector
213 He Wanted To Be Buried At Sea, See? S 4a * 1
214 Who? S 4a 1
215 Fatty M 1
216 He Wanted To Be Buried At Sea! S 1
217 Good Old Boy, Fatty VD 1
218 Fuck Off Back To Noddy Land! E1 5a ** 1
219 Captain Says A Few Words f6A+ * 1
220 Bit Of A Sing Song f6A 1
221 In With The Sharks! 7a * 1
222 Nice Pot Of Sticky-Sticky VS 4c 1
223 Get Yer Own Fucking Glue! VS 4c * 1
  Bananarama
225 Bananarama's Wiemaraner's Panamanian Panorama f2+ 1
  Bummed
227 Country Song HS 4c 1
228 Moving In With VS 4c * 1
229 Mad Cyril VS 4c * 1
230 Fat Lady Wrestlers VS 4c * 1
231 Performance VS 4c 1
232 Brain Dead VS 5a 1
233 Lazyitis f6A ** 1
234 RH Start to Lazyitis (needs a name) f6B+  
  Guest Informant
236 Guest Informant f6A * 1
  Plinth Boulder
238 Beware The IDS Of March! f6A+ * 1
239 The Panama Papers f6B * 1
  The Red Zone
241 Captain Hook f6B+ * 1
  Aquatic Carnivore Of Cetecean Lineage
243 Pete Hook f7A * 1
244 Konnie Huq f6B 1
  East End
246 She Was A Girl From Birmingham f5+ 1
  Swanbridge
  1914 Bench
249 Haelen Bridge f7A * 4
250 Yser 7c ** 3
251 Race To The Sea 7c+ *** 1
252 Charleroi V4+ * 4
253 The Marne 7b * 3
254 The Retreat From Mons 7b * 6
255 The Aisne 7b+ ** 2
256 Le Cateau 7a+ * 12
257 Smith-Dorrien V3 * 12
258 Enola Gay f7A * 1
259 Fat Man 7c ** 2
260 Window Lickers Of The World Unite And Take Over 7c ** 1
261 The Strange Death Of Liberal England 7c+ ** 1
262 Bockscar 7b * 2
263 Little Boy V4 3
264 Rhiw De Sully f6B 1
265 Roux De Sully f6A+ 1
266 Rue de Sully V3 6a * 3
267 Second Septermberprogramm For Juncker f6C * 1
268 Petit-Croix f6C * 1
269 Mons f5 5
270 With General French 7a+ * 2
271 One Way Ticket To Troisvierges Station f6B+ * 1
272 Sully Cat V2 6a 2
273 First Ypres V3 6a 3
274 Unamed V2 5c * 3
275 Panthersprung V2 5c 4
  Slabs Area
277 Sully Arete V0- 4c 12
278 Sully View Slab f5 ** 19
279 Sully Buggers V1 5c * 7
280 Sully Bully V0+ 5b 5
281 Far Too Sully V2 5
282 Stop That! It's Sully! f4 1

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