UKC

Climbs 124
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 125m a.s.l
Faces SW

the crag in the city © jamestheyip

Crag features

This striking geological feature overlooking central Edinburgh has been popular with local climbers for generations. The quantity of good climbing is not proportional to the quantity of rock, but its convenience makes it a great resource for Edinburgh climbers, with superb views.

The South Quarry offers some good bouldering and short routes, and is often busy on summer evenings. The steep and polished testpieces of the Black Wall are the highlight, but there is plenty more to play on. From an old guide (http://scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Salisbury_Crags): 'the moves themselves are the aesthetic objective rather than the lines'.

The routes are usually soloed, as protection and belays are generally lacking. The best lines of descent in the quarry are the Moderates, otherwise walk around the long way. Many unlisted routes and variations have also been climbed.

Expect curiosity from tourists.

traverses on black wall given route grades 

Approach notes

Permission to climb is in theory granted by getting a free pass from the Historic Scotland Park Ranger Service, who hide in a wee glass fronted building behind Holyrood Palace. The requirement of the pass isn't heavily enforced, and because most climbers stick to bouldering in the South Quarry, reports of problems are rare.

Guidebooks

I was bouldering here about 30 years ago (A hand traverse on the front face by the quarry). Some small pebbles came past me and I thought it was kids kicking them over from above. I shouted up, but they didn't stop. I went round the corner to work on a different problem. About three minutes later - HUMUNGOUS sound of thunder. When I went to look there was about 50 tons of rock where I had just been. It has all grown over now, but what used to be a hollow is now level. The rocks at Salisbury crags can be a little loose sometimes.....
Tam O'Bam - 28/Mar/15
Easy traverse bouldering around the majority of the quarry and original trad routes are soloable for those with the balls. The highlight is the black wall which provides several excellent polished testpieces.
doug5_10 - 25/Apr/07
Lots of polished traverse bouldering at all grades. Can get a little busy during the summer but there is a good vibe between all climbers. Expect an audience of gawping tourists and neds.
camw - 23/Jun/06
75m of easy bouldering on three elevations 25m of hard bouldering on one elevation Beware Neds from above
220bpm - 04/Jul/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Pic Robbieson D 7
2 The Great Electrocardiogram Traverse VS 5a 1
  the cat nick
4 Cat Nick Arete
-
D 2
5 Cat Nick Arete (winter)
-
V 4 * 2
6 The Cat Nick M 13
7 The Cat Nick (winter) III ** 25
8 Cat Nick Buttress
-
VD 1
  great quarry
10 Transatlantic Trip
-
E3 5c 1
11 The Ragged Rascals
-
E3 5c  
12 Straight Satan
-
E2 5c 2
13 Walking On Sunshine E3 6a *** 2
14 Steeplejack's Staircase E2 5b * 4
15 Election Special
-
E2 5c  
16 Ginger Nymphos Lust
-
E2 6a * 2
17 After the Axe
-
E2 5b/c 2
18 The Blackdance
-
E2 5c ** 1
19 Second Offence
-
E3 5c  
20 Ped Xing
-
E1 5b *  
21 Walk On By
-
E2 5a  
  great buttress
23 Great Buttress
-
VD ** 6
  western buttress
25 Hewit's Groove
-
VS 4c  
26 Horne's Slab
-
VS 5a 1
27 Black Corner
-
HVS 5a *  
28 Groove Route
-
VS 4c  
29 Wall Route
-
S  
30 Slab and Wedge Route
-
VD  
  south quarry
32 Doubledecker
-
S 1
33 Doubledecker Variation
-
VD  
34 Harrison's Climb
-
S ** 2
35 Archie's Slab
-
HVS 5a * 1
36 Wicked Lady
-
VS 4c ** 15
37 Original Route
-
M 18
38 Original Route Direct VS 4c 4
39 Athlete's Arete HVS 5a 20
40 The Long Stride
-
M * 11
41 The Long Stride Variation VS 5a * 17
Climb name Grade
42 White Slab VD 51
43 White Slab Arete f3 ** 20
44 Rotten Overhang
-
HVS 4b 4
45 Rotten Overhang Traverse Low f6A+ 36
46 Rotten Overhang Traverse Central f5 27
47 The Splits
-
S 9
48 Splits Eliminate f6A+ 13
49 The Lift Arete
-
VD 35
50 The Lift
-
M * 61
51 Initial Route
-
VS 5b * 14
52 Structural Integrity E1 5b ** 4
53 Horrible Hook
-
VS 4c 7
54 Red Slab
-
D * 38
55 Hyphen Route HVS 5a * 15
56 Black Slab
-
S ** 31
57 Black Slab Eliminate f5+ 26
58 Idle Gossip E3 5c * 15
59 Clown Army and the Riot Polis HVS 5a ** 10
60 Spike Fright
-
HVS 5a * 16
61 A Nightmare of White Apples E2 5b * 3
62 Notch Climb
-
S 8
63 Recess Climb
-
S * 21
64 Recess Climb Variation
-
VS 4c 5
65 Graham's Route
-
S * 20
66 Rib and Mantelshelf
-
S 15
67 Sentry Box
-
S * 15
68 Hanging Slab
-
S * 19
69 Roofer Madness
-
HVS 5a 1
70 Roofer Traverse f6A+ 59
71 Roofer Right Hand f6A+ 23
72 Roofer Wall f4 10
73 Black Chimney
-
S * 17
  The Little Black Wall
75 Little Black Wall Traverse f6A+ ** 67
76 Sidepull Eliminate f6B+ * 13
77 The Flake f4+ 30
78 Crimp Eliminate f6A+ 21
79 The Juggy Undercut f4+ 21
  the black wall
81 The Black Wall Traverse 7a *** 123
82 Black Wall Traverse (L-R low start) 7a+ ** 13
Climb name Grade
83 Black Wall Traverse (L-R low) 7c ** 7
84 Black Wall Traverse (R-L) 7a ** 26
85 Black Wall Traverse (R-L low) 7c ** 7
86 Black Wall, Left Wall Direct f6B 18
87 Black Wall, Layback Problem f6B * 26
88 Layback Problem SS f7B  
89 Black Wall, Layback Problem Direct f6B * 17
90 Black Wall, Press Problem f6C+ ** 6
91 The Shield f6C ** 15
92 Black Wall, 'M' problem f6B * 15
93 Black Wall, Central Wall Eliminate f6C ** 7
94 Black Wall, Central Highball Problem f6B *** 21
95 Black Wall, Right Wall Problem f6A * 29
96 Black Wall, Right Wall Problem Eliminate f7A+ * 9
97 Black Wall, Right Wall Problem Sit f7B * 1
98 Black Wall Arete f4+ 46
99 Black wall link f7B+ 1
  eastern buttress
101 Black Chimney Buttress
-
VD * 6
102 Recess Traverse f6A 26
103 Slab Eliminate f6A+ 15
104 Hanging Nose f4 12
105 Eastern Buttress Face Route
-
VD 2
106 Juggy Traverse f6A 35
107 Non-Juggy Traverse f6B+ 17
108 Devo Max Traverse f7A 2
109 The Bulge f6B 16
110 Slap Slap Slap f6C+ ** 1
111 Overhang Problem f6A * 15
  middle quarry
113 Butterfly
-
S  
114 Toujours Tout Droit
-
VS 4c  
115 Tournez en Face a ma Gauche
-
S  
116 The Slant
-
D  
117 Centre Slab
-
M * 7
  pinnacle quarry
119 The Conflict with Temptation
-
S 3
120 Falseface
-
S  
121 Pinnacle Face
-
VD * 7
122 Pinnacle Corner
-
VD 4
123 Pinnacle Corner Variation
-
S 1

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