Climbs 34
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 320m a.s.l

Cambridge Crack © RobBrooks

Crag features

The biggest quarry at Mow Cop dominated by the Castle Crack Face

Approach notes

Climbing on the old man of mow is not permitted by the National Trust but is totally worth it for some stunning routes. Parking in castle car park and dirt tracks from there. Can get swampy

Access Advice

This whole area is popular with the general public due to its folly, viewpoints etc. The National Trust has concerns over the state of the rock and dangers to the public. Do not climb on The Old Man (it continues to shed rock and lean with increasing angle each year). In addition, the area also contains a few disused quarries inc; Millstone Quarry is not NT land and ownership is uncertain. If you climb here be sensitive to the privacy of the people in the bungalows to the north.

No one seemed to bothered about us climbing up the old man of mow. Some even stopped to take pictures. I don't know how to reach the bolt on top, any ideas would be helpful :)
RobBrooks - 26/Oct/14
Went boulder up there 19th June 2010. Was told i wasn't allowed as people get hurt and NT is liable. so I duly de-shoed and walked down chatting with the wardens about how nice the place is. They then said that if i was a member of the BMC with reg card to back up insured liablity they do not have a problem climbing anywhere on mow cop. just inform them when and where. They did also say that The Old Man is totally off limits as the crack is being measured constantly as it grows wider all the time. Very unstable. Any mor edetails give me a message.
ungracefulathlete - 20/Jun/10
Previous post has page breaks removed! Email detail starts at "The last meeting" and ends at "guidebook notes state."---My personal comments start from "When I try to climb there again".
EZ - 08/Nov/09
I have had a response from the BMC as follows: The last meeting that I had with the Nat Trust was well before the 2004 guide and I met with their Officer from Styal Office. Millstone Quarry was not part of their jurisdiction or ownership and they did not know who owned it, although he did express the opinion that if no one claimed ownership then the N.T. might 'claim'it. However, even if this has happened it is no reason to prevent climbing as there were no objections to climbing per se raised at this meeting. All they asked for was that climbers did not create a nuisance to the owners of the bungalows on the north side of the quarry. The Reach HS 4a is not near these bungalows. Their restrictions at Mow are for two reasons: 1. Danger to the public walking underneath - Folly Cliff. 2. Unstable rock - The Old man. Other than that the N.T. Officer had no objection to climbing either at the Trig Point or at the back (south side) under the Folly as the guidebook notes state. When I try to climb there again I will do so sensitively by advising the Styal National Trust office of my intention, parking elsewhere than the NT car park, and with this email printed and a copy of the most recent guidebook in my hand so that I can advise the wardens when approached. For reference the response to me was from Guy Keating and the Local Access rep who handled the enquiry was Dave Bishop. Thanks to these and the BMC for their work regarding this access issue.
EZ - 08/Nov/09
I have just been asked to leave the Millstone Quarry area by the National Trust wardens (three of them). The regional access database was last updated in 2006 stating that the Millstone Area is not owned by the NT ( http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=751 ). I am currently waiting for response from the BMC to advise and will update here accordingly.
EZ - 17/Oct/09
Eh up mate, call in next time you're up here.
rcs - 16/Jul/08
Climbing is not allowed on The folly Cliff, Hawks Hole Quarry and the Old Man of Mow. Climbers are tolerated on Millstone Quarry but you will get questioned by the warden who seems to have the ability to appear like the shop keeper in Mr Ben, talk to him hes not a bad chap, the main worry is the loose rock and the local kids trying to copy what you are doing
NIGBEE - 19/May/06
climbing is no longer allowed at mow cop
deeje - 24/Oct/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Old Man of Mow
2 Spiral Route VS 4a ** 14
3 The Direct Route HVS 5a 1
4 Alsager Route VS 3
5 The Lee Side E1 5a  
6 Cambridge crack VS 4c  
7 Piton Route E1 5b  
8 Express route VS 5a 1
9 Ollie's Rise HVS 6a  
10 TechnoDisco E6 7b *** 1
  The Old Man's Quarry
12 Cioch Groove VD  
13 Crystal Voyager HVS 5a  
14 Initiation Wall VS 4b 2
15 B.S. Mow E1 5c  
16 The Arete E3 5c  
17 Man Mow E1 5a  
18 Folly Berger HVS 5a  
19 Right Tot HVS 4c  
  Millstone quarry
21 The Reach HS 4a 3
22 Carbonel VS 4c ** 3
23 Silent Scream E3 6a  
24 Bow and arrow VS 4c * 1
25 Special branch E1 5b  
26 Castle Crack VS 4b * 7
27 Crystine E2 5b *  
28 Arête and Slab Climb S 4
29 Executioner HS 1
  Hawks hole quarry
31 10 Green Bottles V5+ 1
32 Lost Your Bottle V2 2
  Sunset boulder
34 Left arete V1 1
35 Leatherface V3 1
36 Handsup V4 1
37 Jackup V2 1
38 Rockover VE 1
39 Do you ever fall? V2 1

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