Climbs 18
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Berny on the crux © Samuel Wainwright

Crag features

Set above the glistening waters of North Third Reservoir, this extensive outcrop of dolerite certainly boasts one of the best outlooks of any of the crags around Stirling. The crag is of the same rock type as the nearby Cambusbarron quarries, however being a natural outcrop, the rock is a lot more weathered providing some really superb traditional jamming crack lines with very little in the way of face holds. That being said, there is a lot of loose rock to contend with (esspecially on the top outs) along with a fair amount of vegetation in the cracks. 

The crag dries relaiviely quickly and recives plently afternoon sunshine. In the winter the crack lines have a tendancy to seep and may become a bit green and unwelcoming. It can also be midgey on a still, damp day. 

Must do's include Jezebel and Flying Dragon. 

There is almost certainly scope for new routes at this crag.

Approach notes

The easiest approach is from the North Third Reservoir Road, the SMC description suggests driving up the minor road up to below the dam, however this is often locked but there are a few spaces on the main road that can be used if this is the case. Another option is to continue driving to the next junction and take a left continuing around the edge of the reservoir. Before long a few spaces are reached where the road descends towards the reservoir and you can follow a faint path through feilds to the dam.

To quickest way to get to the crag follows the path from the eastern edge of the dam along the shore into the forest and then up towards whichever sector you're going to. Birds and Bees sector is on the Left with Jezebel and Flrying Dragon on the right.

An alternative approach (considerably less bush wacking!) follows the main path along the top of the escapment which is accessed from a path which goes directly uphill from the eastern edge of the dam. An abseil can then be made into whichever area required.   

Guidebooks

Visited this today to scope some of the starred routes. Access very tough through the bracken and trees though if you loop over the top onto the good footpath and find a descent path it would be easier but trickier to find the areas. Faulty Tower area was VERY overgrown. In particular, Syblline Slab which could do with a properly good clean. Red Tower was similar but marginally better, awkward to find but VERY impressive when you do. Again, both the good lines of Flying Dragon and Jezebel could do with a clean to rid them of lichen, loose rock and the horrible solidified mud that you get on Dolerite. Overall, this places needs A LOT more traffic but with this and Cambusbarron being the closest crags to Stirling there's little chance people will choose this over the other. A real shame cause it's stunning when you get up there!
Gabe Oliver - 09/Jun/13
Does anyone know the name of the buttress which has Faulty Tower on it?
CyberTaff - 04/Mar/12
Had a look at this on sat. Red Tower looks good (solid clean rock) but most of the rest was covered in lichen. Needs more traffic for sure.
CyberTaff - 21/Nov/11
Probably THE best jamming between Yorkshire Grit and Staffin / Ardmair!
Fiend - 12/Apr/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 CSC Arete S 4a 2
2 Dragon Arete VS 4a 1
3 Faulty Tower VS 4c 2
4 Syblline Slab E2 5c ** 6
  Birds and Bees Buttress
6 Rockhopper Rib E3 5c * 6
7 Beeline
-
HVS 5a 4
Climb name Grade
8 Cuckoo Crack
-
VS 5a 7
9 Procrastinator's Crack E2 5c ** 4
  Red Tower
11 The Flying Dragon E2 5c *** 21
12 Jezebel E1 5b *** 42
13 Bejeezus E2 5b * 1
14 Jim's Chimney
-
VS 4b 7
Climb name Grade
15 Red Shift
-
E6 6b ** 6
16 Red Shift (Variation)
-
E6 6a 1
17 Flaky Scalp S 4a  
18 Beemer
-
E3 5c 1
19 Sma' Gell
-
E2 5c 4
20 My Love for you is like a Train D 1

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