Climbs 94
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 550m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Looking down from Long Scar © Obi Wan

Crag features

Good rock, provides a good companion to Black Scar with generally easier routes than Black Crag.

Also has four boulders with 30+ problems on rough, clean rock with good landings.

Approach notes

Approach from parking near the Three Shire Stone at the top of Wrynose Pass (GPS  54.414411, -3.115861).

Uphill approach on a good path, approx. 20 mins

 

Guidebooks

Lakes Bouldering

The first dedicated bouldering guidebook to the Lake District, spanning a range of areas largely in the National Park and all north and west of the M6 junction 36. The guide is intended to be useful to the visiting climber looking for a day or evening's light bouldering just as much as the hard-core local with decent coverage for the V1 and V9 boulderer alike.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Langdale (2013)
LakesBloc Website

Out of print:
Langdale (1999)
Not an indifferent crag at all, but a delightful venue, save it for a warm summer evening. The current guidebook only shows off a small amount of this crags potential. Rough rock, stunning views, and can get a bit wild - a perfect Lakeland crag
Mark Eddy - 02/Mar/12
Great for first lead, plenty of routes around
phil morton - 27/Jul/06
SW facing. Great beginner's crag. Only 15 minutes from the road along a good path yet it's still quiet. Very, very grippy rock but don't fall - they don't call it Long Scar for nothing! However, there's no polish and there's little growing on it as it catches a lot of sun and wind (so can be chilly too). But, the holds tend to be smallish and take the guidebook grades with a heavy pinch of salt (some up, some down).
James Kidd - 13/Sep/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Hand Section
2 Edge Crack HVS 5a 5
3 Flake Crack HVS 5a * 27
4 Trumpet HVS 5a * 13
5 Long Stand VS 4c 5
6 Trombone HVS 5b 12
7 Brass Band D 42
8 Dayshift VS 4b * 7
9 Nightshift VD * 64
10 Big Band VS 4c * 25
11 Glen Miller HS 4b 35
12 Dot's Delight VD ** 212
13 Roxy D 32
14 Lucy VD 32
15 Great White VS 4c * 34
16 Long Scar Groove S 4a ** 74
17 Monster in a T-Shirt HVS 5a * 76
18 The Singing Cowboy VS 4c * 140
19 Cowgirl VS 4c 4
20 Roundup HS 4a 34
21 All the Sixes E3 5c * 2
22 Silver E2 5b 3
23 Trigger S * 81
  Katie's Dilemma area
25 Green Treacle HS 4a * 162
26 Longy Chewed HS 4a 37
27 Tornado Alley HVS 5a 17
28 The Opportunist VS 4b 29
29 Heart of the Matter VS 4b * 125
30 Step to the Right VS 4b * 121
31 Katie's Dilemma VS 4b ** 577
Climb name Grade
32 Something Stupid HVS 4c * 343
33 Forrudd VS 4b * 113
34 The Gentle Touch
-
HVS 5a 1
35 Sam's Saunter HS 4b * 581
  Right Hand Section
37 Old Holborn Direct Start * D ** 7
38 Llywndyrys VS 4b * 86
39 Nipper HS 13
40 Platt Gang Groove D * 657
41 Intruder's Corner VD * 609
42 Extravaganza MS 10
43 Marriage S 8
44 Old Holborn M * 409
45 Rizla Rib VD * 180
46 Slab and Rib S 4a ** 22
47 Twin Cracks Right VS 4c * 154
48 Islay VD 152
49 Tiree M 30
50 Coll
-
M 18
51 Billy's Climb S 3c * 159
  Fence Boulder
53 Problem 1
-
f2 1
54 Problem 2
-
f2 1
55 Problem 3
-
f3 1
56 Problem 4
-
f5  
57 Problem 5 (Rockfax Problem 1) f5 12
58 Problem 6
-
f6A  
59 The Great Puntender f6A+ 4
60 Curry Club f6C+ * 2
61 Penitentiary f7A * 1
62 Problem 10 f7A 1
Climb name Grade
63 Problem 11
-
f6C *  
64 The Stephanator * V2 5c * 2
  Boulder 1
66 Problem 12 (Rockfax Problem 2) f5+ 15
67 Problem 13 (Rockfax Problem 3) f5+ 14
68 Problem 14 (Rockfax Problem 4) f5 9
69 Problem 15 (Rockfax Problem 5)
-
f4 5
70 Problem 16
-
f5+  
  Boulder 2
72 Problem 17 f7A  
73 Left Slab
-
f4 4
74 Gem
-
f6A * 7
75 Right Slab
-
f5 3
76 The Nose
-
f6C  
  Boulder 3
78 Problem 22 (Rockfax Problem 9)
-
f5 2
79 Problem 23 (Rockfax Problem 10)
-
f5+ 5
  Long Scar Scarp
81 Problem 24 (Rockfax Problem 11)
-
f3 17
82 Problem 25 (Rockfax Problem 12)
-
f2 18
83 Problem 26 (Rockfax Problem 13)
-
f4 21
84 Problem 27 (Rockfax Problem 14)
-
f2+ 17
85 Problem 28
-
f3  
86 Problem 29
-
f2+  
87 Problem 30 (Rockfax Problem 15)
-
f3 17
88 Problem 31 (Rockfax Problem 16)
-
f5+ * 14
89 Left Wall
-
f5+ * 23
90 Problem 33 (Rockfax Problem 18)
-
f5 20
91 Problem 34 (Rockfax Problem 19)
-
f4 20
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers net and LGraham