Climbs 26
Rocktype Dolerite

Faces SW

Bouldering © Sophie Nicol

Crag features

Limited but enjoyable climbing. Routes from 3 to Font 7a+.

Routes are slightly overgrown at top but the rock is generally sound. Quarry consists of main face and two side walls. The main face is roughly 8-9m high with several cracks, left wall has two chimney routes (4a and 5a) and the right wall offers various routes as well (though most are overgrown in summer). Bouldering is possible but hindered by rocky landing on some routes (plenty of mats and spotters needed). Graffiti on main wall suggests potential conflict of usage between climbers and local kids.

Access to the top of the crag can be made by following the path up the right of the crag, then round through the trees. A Gap in the fence allows access to the top of the routes.

The fence is generally sound for anchoring, although it is some distance from the cliff face.

A Tree on the left (looking from below)is also fairly sound.

PARKING:

Parking is best on Seil Drive, just 2 seconds round the corner from the crag. Try not to block the junction with Old Castle Road as it's a tight one at the best of times!

Approach notes

From the stairs at Cathcart Train Station, turn left down the pedestrian tunnel. Left again up Delvin Road, then straight over the junction to Old Castle Road. Follow Old Castle road uphill, past the Old Smiddy Pub, untill it's juction with Seil Drive. The quarry is behind railings on left just before Seil Drive. It is NOT in Linn Park as some guides suggest but instead lies directly opposite the entrance to the park.

Guidebooks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rcIeTbVnUUU
Denpov - 14/Aug/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 There is no spoon f7A+ *** 2
2 Blue Tit's Nest Crack
-
V1 5a * 19
3 Girdle Traverse
-
V1 5b 9
4 Wullie's Crack V1 5a * 23
5 DF118's V4 6a+ 4
6 Layback Crack V0 4c 16
7 Coleptra Crack
-
VB 3b 18
8 Snowy's Big Traverse
-
V4 6b 7
9 Thin Finger's Crack E1 5c 8
10 Last Route
-
none 4a 15
11 Mountain Climber Route
-
none 4c 22
12 Grotty Groove V0 4c 3
13 Andrew's Wall
-
V0 4c 11
14 Chockstone Crack V1 5a 7
15 Blue Tit's Left Hand f5 * 7
16 Blue Tit's Right Hand f5 11
17 The Press f3+ 9
18 Coleptera Traverse f6A * 3
19 The Red Pill f7A * 3
20 Ten Year Wall f6A 5
21 Everest Corner VB 3b 2
22 Right Wall VB 3b 2
23 Easy ArĂȘte VB 3a 1
24 Consolation VB 3a 1
25 The Long Reach VB 4a 2
26 Mudcrack VB 4b 1

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