Climbs 66
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 90m a.s.l
Faces S

Why Scottish quarried trad is worth fighting for - committed and loving it. © Fiend

Crag features

The old or closed quarry - "Cambusbarron Quarry" is now referred to as "Thornton's Quarry" in the most recent SMC guide.

The new/open quarry "Cambusbarron West" is now referred to as Fourth Quarry.

High standard single pitch routes and a few good boulder problems.

Very sheltered, catches evening sun in summer.

However, the closed quarry is seldom dry in winter.

Must Dos :

Big Country Dreams - E4 6a

Both Ends Burning - E5 6b

The Purr-Blind Doomster - E5 6a

Spanking the Monkey - font 7a

Monkey Spanking - font 7b

Approach notes

Limited parking - park with consideration


First time in the quarry today and we enjoyed (there are more climbs in my grade S - VS4c here than in the Fourth quarry). Rock is sound but needs a good clean and there are lots of bugs (Tash didn't enjoy them). Could really benefit from removing some of the trees (vegetation in general) to allow some light in to dry the walls after rain. Will be back!!
CyberTaff - 02/Aug/12
Youtube view of this venue but not very clear due to the amount of trees.
Denpov - 14/Feb/11
Worth noting that Spanking The Monkey is more like Font 6c-ish, not Font 7b. It was given E5 6a originally, and English 6a is nowhere near Font 7b. It's actually English 6b, therefore Font 6c-ish. *** and great fun.
Fiend - 23/Feb/10
'Thornton's Quarry', as it is known locally, is as intimidating as it is excellent. If you are unused to the rock-type it is well worth serving an apprenticeship in the neighbouring 'Fourth Quarry', which is better suited to lower to mid grade climbers, before taking on the challenges presented by such classics as 'Big Country Dreams', 'The Purr-Blind Doomster' or 'Nandralone'. Your efforts will be well rewarded in both the venues!
dodfoster - 15/May/06
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Climbs at this crag

23Power of EnduranceE5 6b **15
24Quantum GruntE3 6a **26
25Visions of MonacoE3 5c 32
26CumacomaE5 6b 1
27Big Country DreamsE4 6a ***104
28Grace Under PressureE1 5b *50
29Formica CrackE3 6a **9
30The Purr-Blind DoomsterE5 6a ***52
31Quasi Pulls ThroughE4 6a/b 2
32Pig RouteE3 5c 2
33Both Ends BurningE5 6b ***18
34Fuel for ThoughtE3 5c 1
35The CrowdE6 6a/b 2
36Running on MethaneE4 6a 2
37Murray's GrooveE2 5c 1
38Auto GiroE6 6c *1
39Adulterer's RepentanceE3 5c  
40Economy DriveE3 6a ** 
41ContortionismE6 6c  
42Anabolic SteroidsE6 6b *1
43LDVf4 *26
44Spanking the Monkeyf7A ***44
45Monkey Spankingf7B ***3
46Jerkin' the Gherkinf6C+ **2
47Lambrini Bloc Leftf6A **2
48Lambrini Bloc Rightf5 *1
49The Bustup
VS 4c  
50Cybersex 5
E6 6b/c * 
51NandraloneE8 6c *** 
52Anger ManagementE5 6b ** 
53Bobbin RobinE2 5b 4
54TrailblazerE2 5c **36
55Gun FuryE2 5c 3
56PathfinderE1 5b *13
57Traversef7A 1
58Thug of WarE4 6b  
59Left Slanting Crackf6A *4
60Phantom PowerE1 5b 4
61Dr. Dre's OrgasmatronE3 5c *4
62Snatcher's Oblivionf6A+ **1
63Auroras Encoref5+ **1
64Western Blocf5+ *1
65Stumpy Cornerf4 1
66Stumpy ArĂȘtef4+ 1

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