Climbs 69
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 90m a.s.l
Faces S

Why Scottish quarried trad is worth fighting for - committed and loving it. © Fiend

Crag features

One of the best venues in the central belt for those operating in the E3-5 range. (Plenty to go at above and below too). Camby (AKA Thorntons)has had a bit of a renaissance in 2017 with a committed band of locals tidying things up, clearing back vegetation and giving some of the routes a much needed scrub. (There is still much to do....)

Very sheltered, left wall catches evening sun in summer. However, can seep quite a bit over the winter. Very close to the M9 so makes an ideal stopping off point if heading further north or south.

 

Loose Rock & Dirt:

Thorntons has its fair share of loose rock and dirty holds, although feels more solid than Forth. (Its quarried so fairly new as far as cliff faces go, and there are many larch trees above which drop needles down the routes every autumn). That’s not to say its not a good place to climb but that caution is advised on the less trafficked routes. (Abb it and clean it properly for yourself and the benefit of others if you have any doubt.)

Approach notes

Limited parking - park with consideration

Guidebooks

First time in the quarry today and we enjoyed (there are more climbs in my grade S - VS4c here than in the Fourth quarry). Rock is sound but needs a good clean and there are lots of bugs (Tash didn't enjoy them). Could really benefit from removing some of the trees (vegetation in general) to allow some light in to dry the walls after rain. Will be back!!
CyberTaff - 02/Aug/12
Youtube view of this venue but not very clear due to the amount of trees. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ww9kRMesKDA
Denpov - 14/Feb/11
Worth noting that Spanking The Monkey is more like Font 6c-ish, not Font 7b. It was given E5 6a originally, and English 6a is nowhere near Font 7b. It's actually English 6b, therefore Font 6c-ish. *** and great fun.
Fiend - 23/Feb/10
'Thornton's Quarry', as it is known locally, is as intimidating as it is excellent. If you are unused to the rock-type it is well worth serving an apprenticeship in the neighbouring 'Fourth Quarry', which is better suited to lower to mid grade climbers, before taking on the challenges presented by such classics as 'Big Country Dreams', 'The Purr-Blind Doomster' or 'Nandralone'. Your efforts will be well rewarded in both the venues!
dodfoster - 15/May/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lefthand Bouldering
2 Bro's Arete f4+ 10
3 Fast and Cheap f6A 6
4 Treehugging f3 9
5 Sandal-wearing f5 7
6 Pebble Dashed f6A 9
7 Hippy Bastard f3 7
8 Suck My Oil f4+ 4
9 Kamikaze f6A+ ** 2
10 Withdrawl Wall f5 7
11 Feel My Vineyard
-
f5+ 5
  3 Steps Area
13 Grangemouth High Grooves HS 4b 15
14 Bo's Groove VS 4c 11
15 Bo's Arete HVS 5a * 11
16 Bo's Arete Direct E1 5c ** 19
17 Stomped VS 4c 2
18 Blockbuster VS 4c 32
19 Catch the Pidgeon S * 5
20 John's Wall f6A+ ** 3
21 John's Arete f4 2
22 Three Step Corner S 29
23 Ballroom Blitz E2 5c 2
24 Ground Force HVS 5a 12
  Main Left Wall
26 Power of Endurance E5 6b ** 16
27 Quantum Grunt E3 6a ** 28
28 Visions of Monaco E3 5c 34
29 Cumacoma E5 6b 3
30 Big Country Dreams E4 6a *** 117
31 Grace Under Pressure E1 5b * 57
32 Formica Crack E3 6a ** 8
33 The Purr-Blind Doomster E5 6a *** 40
34 Quasi Pulls Through E4 6a/b 2
35 Pig Route E3 5c 2
36 Both Ends Burning E5 6b *** 20
37 Fuel for Thought E3 5c 1
38 The Crowd E6 6a/b 2
39 Running on Methane E4 6a 2
40 Murray's Groove E3 6a ** 10
41 Auto Giro E6 6c * 1
42 Adulterer's Repentance E3 5c  
43 Economy Drive E3 6a **  
44 Contortionism E6 6c  
  Lambrini Boulder
46 Lambrini Bloc Left f6A ** 2
47 Lambrini Bloc Right f5 * 1
  Spanking Boulder
49 LDV f4 * 26
50 Spanking the Monkey f7A *** 34
51 Monkey Spanking f7B *** 3
52 Jerkin' the Gherkin f6C+ ** 2
  Back Wall
54 Anabolic Steroids E6 6b * 1
55 Tarzan E3 5c  
56 The Bustup
-
VS 4c  
57 Cybersex 5
-
E6 6b/c *  
58 Nandralone E8 6c ***  
59 Anger Management E5 6b **  
60 Bobbin Robin E2 5b 4
61 Gun Fury E2 5c 13
62 Moving Shadow E6 6b ***  
63 Trailblazer E2 5c ** 44
64 Pathfinder E1 5b * 18
65 Left Slanting Crack f6A * 5
66 Thug of War E4 6b  
67 Traverse f7A 1
  Right Wall
69 Phantom Power E1 5b 4
70 Dr. Dre's Orgasmatron E3 5c * 4
71 In Hiding
-
E3 5c  
  Righthand Bouldering
73 Auroras Encore f5+ ** 1
74 Snatcher's Oblivion f6A+ ** 1
75 Western Bloc f5+ * 1
76 Stumpy Corner f4 1
77 Stumpy ArĂȘte f4+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Burnsie