Climbs 109
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 340m a.s.l
Faces E

Crag features

The obvious series of small buttresses and boulders across the valley from the Wainstones. Looks pretty poor until you get up close. Bouldering is actually better than that at the Wainstones, but most of the 'routes' are really just high-balls [Jamie 6/05]. It's worth noting that the directions for each buttress given in the bouldering guide are back to front and should be ignored, the map can still be used though.

Approach notes

Wander directly over from the Wainstones, then turn left to walk just up-hill of the drystone wall which runs some way beneath the crag. 10-15 mins from Wainstones

Advise not to go in middle of bracken, hacking through bracken rather tiresome.
freemanTom - 09/Aug/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Wall Buttress
2 Opening Gambit VS 4c  
3 Wall and Crack S 3
4 Crac VS 4c 1
5 Desiree VS 4b  
6 Optical Trap f6A+  
  Plantation Buttress
8 Endgame VS 4c 3
9 Fraggle Rock HVD 6
  Dead Tree Buttress
11 Bravo HS 4b 2
12 Stumpy HS 4b 1
13 Dead Tree Wall HS 4b 2
14 Dead Tree crack S  
15 Dead Tree Groove VD 4
16 Dead loss HS 4b 3
17 Dead End M 6
  Undercut Buttress
19 All In One VS 4b 2
20 Classic Rock HVS 4c ** 6
21 No Limits HVS 5c ** 4
22 No Limits - Direct Start E1 6b ** 2
23 No Limits - Direct Finish E1 6a * 1
24 Sickle S * 1
25 Sickle Direct VS 5a * 1
  Easy Slab
27 Gardener's World D 2
  Bilsdale Buttress
29 Fa├žade S 4b 4
30 Letterbox Wall HVS 5b ** 8
31 Party Piece HVS 5b * 5
32 Visa Versa D * 5
  Capstone Buttress
34 Insatiable Desire E1 6a 4
35 Capstone Corner VD 3
  Neb Buttress
37 Out Of Reach E1 5c 5
38 Nebula S ** 7
39 Buttress Route VS 5a ** 6
40 Neb Direct E1 6a 1
41 Harum Scarum E1 5c * 5
42 Tough Enough HVS 5b 4
  Midget Gem Block
44 Midget Slab f7A  
45 Midget Crack f7A * 1
Climb name Grade
46 Midget Gem f5+ 2
47 Midget Gem (Sit Start) f7A  
  Three Tier Buttress
49 Three Tier Climb HS * 6
  Little Buttress
51 Small Time VD  
52 Child's Play VS 4c * 2
53 Kiddie Time VS 5b * 2
  Delta Slab
55 Delta Force VS 4c 2
56 Delta Slab S * 8
57 Delta Slab Arete HS * 7
  Fern Buttress
59 Fern Crack S 1
60 Hungover D * 3
61 Fern Groove HVS 5b ** 5
62 Fern Gully D 1
63 Fern Gully Variation VS 4c  
  Little Shelf Buttress
65 Over The Hill f4 1
66 Over the Hill (Sit Start) f5+ *  
67 Little Shelf f3+ 2
  Shelf Buttress
69 White slab VD 1
70 Left Chasing Desire f7C *  
71 Chasing Desire f7C **  
72 Oblivion f7C+ *  
73 Franks Chimney VD 1
74 Trivial Pursuit f5+ ** 6
75 Trivial Pursuit (Sit Start) f7B ** 2
76 Leaning Corner VD 2
  Shelf Buttress Boulders
78 Frank's Slab VD * 4
79 Lay Z Day f5  
  The Ridgeway
81 Cold Cut f6B 1
82 The Ridgeway D 5
83 The Ridgeway Variations f3+  
84 The Ridgeway Variation Prob 6 V8+ 1
85 The Ridgeway Variation Prob 7 V8 1
86 The Ridgeway Variation Prob 8 V8 1
87 The Ridgeway Variation Prob 9 V6 1
88 The Ridgeway Variation Prob 10 f2  
  Yeti Blocks
90 Under Pressure f5 1
Climb name Grade
91 Hoppings f3 1
92 Ice Ice Baby f4 1
93 Vanilla Ice f4 1
94 Yeti f6C+ 1
95 Yeti Traverse f6B  
96 Sasquatch f3+  
  End Block
98 Uptime S 1
  Cold Moor Buttress
100 Twinkle Toes VD 4a * 16
101 Cold Cut S 4b * 9
102 Cold Fusion VS 5a * 7
103 True Fusion VS 5b * 7
104 Oblique Crack D 14
105 Cold Sweat E1 6a ** 6
106 Chilled Out E2 6a 5
107 Beak Ridge HS 4b *** 29
108 Cool Dude VS 5b 4
109 Cool Dude (Sit Start) f6A+ *  
110 Cold Shoulder VD 7
111 Cool Juggler HVS 5b 6
  The Nose
113 Cold Turkey f6C * 1
114 Placebo Grenade f7A+ ** 2
  Pathside Block
116 The Edge f6C  
117 Absolute f6C  
  North Buttress
119 Friday 13th
-
E1 5c 2
120 Cold Turkey E2 6a * 4
121 Overhanging Wall (Aid) E1 5c 1
122 Overhanging Wall (Free) E2 6b 3
123 Spine Chill
-
HVS 5b *** 10
124 Footless Crowe E3 6b ** 2
125 Stone Cold Crack HVD 3
126 Pickpocket VS 5a  
127 Green Streak VS 5b 1
128 Coolant VD 1
  West Wall
130 North West Ridge D 1
131 Coolabah f4+  
132 Cooling Down f3+ 1
133 Absolute Zero f3 1

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