Climbs 40
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 21m a.s.l
Faces S

First multi-pitch lead.... on Swanage jugs..... Wall Street HS 4b. © si cooke

Crag features

Cormorant Ledge is a very long section of crag with a handfull of good low and mid-grade lines including a couple of classics. It is possible to gain access easily to either end of the area by abseil and a visit can be added on to a day at Guillemot East without the need to move gear or abseil station. The tops of many of the routes in this area are very loose but on the routes described here they are either solid due to quarrying or regular traffic.

Approach notes

Approach as for Dancing Ledge to the last stile before you drop down the huge slope to the quarry. Turn left (looking out) and follow the ridge track to cross the next stone wall. Drop diagonally right down a steep hillside to reach another stone wall. Follow the valley bottom to reach a rickety stile in the cliff-top fence.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply west of Sea Cow and east of Oran

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)

Out of print:
new stake in place (09/08/2009)
uncontrollable - 09/Aug/09
the abseil stake is past it's sell-by-date, do not use! it bends very easily at ground level (as of 30/07/2009)
frodostickel - 30/Jul/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Ambler Gambler
HVS ** 14
2 Dead Red
E1 5b ** 3
3 Stretch
VS 4b 4
4 Cormorant Buttress West S 4a ** 92
5 Medium Spicy
HVS 5a 1
6 Mirabilis
HVS 5a 1
7 Cormorant Buttress East S 4a 3
8 Ace of Spades
E1 4c, 5b ** 2
9 Flake Crack E1 5c 1
10 Brass Monkey
VS 4c * 2
Climb name Grade
11 Middle Buttress
12 Sambapati
VS 4c 1
13 Squeez It Pleez It
HVS 5a,4b * 2
14 Excalibur VS 4c 2
  Reforn Quarry
16 Jupiter
VS 5a  
17 Jupiter variation
HVS 5b 1
18 Tape and Ape
E5 6b * 2
19 Black Jack
HVS 5a,4c * 19
20 Quality Street HVS 4c *** 239
Climb name Grade
21 Wall Street HS 4b *** 334
22 Wall Street Crash HVS 5a, 4c ** 10
23 Minarette E1 5b ** 4
24 Captain Cat
HVS 5a * 7
25 Oran S 4a * 91
26 Free Fall Cafe E1 5b * 4
  Lost To The Sea
28 Easter Egg VS 4c * 5
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Marti999