Climbs 45
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 21m a.s.l
Faces S

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First multi-pitch lead.... on Swanage jugs..... Wall Street HS 4b. © si cooke

Crag features

Cormorant Ledge is an extensive section of crag with a small number of good low and mid-grade lines, including a couple of classics. It is possible to gain access to either end of the area by abseil, and a visit can be added on to a day at Guillemot East without the need to move gear or abseil station.

Approach notes

Guillemot Ledge is approached from Langton Matravers. From just outside Swanage town, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down the road (on a track for the last 150m) just beyond Langton House. From the parking, walk south on a good path/track to Spyway Barn. Continue through two fields until the cliff-top path is reached. Turn left and follow the path to just past the next stone wall. Drop diagonally right, down a steep hillside, to reach another stone wall. Follow the valley bottom to reach a rickety stile in the fence.

From the rickety stile, follow a fence line left to a wall. Continue along the fence line and cross the fence at the fourth wooden stile (about 150m from the wall). Drop down into a small quarry. An abseil stake is in the floor of the quarry 25m from where the path enters.

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply west of Sea Cow and east of Oran

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)

Out of print:
new stake in place (09/08/2009)
uncontrollable - 09/Aug/09
the abseil stake is past it's sell-by-date, do not use! it bends very easily at ground level (as of 30/07/2009)
frodostickel - 30/Jul/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Main Area
2 Ambler Gambler HVS 5a ** 16
3 Dead Red
-
E1 5b ** 3
4 Golden Mother E1 5b  
5 Stretch
-
VS 4b 4
6 Cormorant Buttress West S 4a ** 97
7 Medium Spicy
-
HVS 5a 1
8 Mirabilis
-
HVS 5a 1
9 Cormorant Buttress East S 4a 3
10 Pandora E1 5c  
11 Ace of Spades E1 5b ** 2
12 French Lessons HVS 5b  
13 Sea Cow HVS 5a  
14 Sunset Finish HVS 5b  
15 Rusty Groove HVS 5a  
16 Serpent E1 5a  
Climb name Grade
17 Flake Crack E1 5c 1
18 Stern Mistress E1 5b  
19 Cruel Passions E3 5c  
20 Brass Monkey
-
VS 4c * 2
21 Middle Buttress
-
HVS 8
22 Sambapati
-
VS 4c 2
23 Squeez It Pleez It HVS 5a * 2
24 Rubble Rouser VS 4c  
25 Snap Crack HVS 5a  
26 Excalibur VS 4c 2
27 Ricochet VS 4c  
28 Jupiter
-
VS 5a  
29 Jupiter Variation
-
HVS 5b 1
30 Abysmal HVS 5a  
31 Blockbuster E4  
32 Tape and Ape
-
E5 6b * 2
Climb name Grade
33 Black Jack HVS 5a * 19
34 Quality Street HVS 4c *** 263
35 Wall Street HS 4b *** 368
36 Wall Street Crash HVS 5a, 4c ** 9
37 Minarette E1 5b ** 4
38 Captain Cat
-
HVS 5a * 7
39 Oran S 4a * 97
40 Free Fall Cafe E1 5b * 4
  Reforn Quarry East
42 Lunatic Fringe VS 5b  
43 Jackal
-
VS 4c  
44 Pendulum
-
HVS 5a  
45 Rhythm E1 5b  
46 Brainless and Nameless HVS 5a  
  Lost To The Sea
48 Easter Egg VS 4c * 5

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