Climbs 213
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 514m a.s.l
Faces S

Sam on the initial crux roof © switch

Crag features

Inland from the throbbing metropolis of Murcia you enter real spaghetti-western territory, scattered amongst the badlands are some interesting hills and at least one decent crag. Mula has two main sectors, but plenty of other bits of rock in the area appear to have been developed too. La Presa is the section by the dam, with 30 routes across the grades on good rock. Sector Ferrari overlooks the motorway and has almost 60 routes including many steep test-pieces. Most people will be able to fill a day or two here.

Sector Abuelo is a newly developed sector (not in the Rockfax guide) further along the escarpment overlooking the Murcia to Caravaca dual carriageway from Sector Ferrari. The left-hand section has superb jug pulling on conglomerate pockets. An exceptionally good venue which has proved to be one of the most popular in the Murcia area. Routes graded F2 are not F2 but are new routes whose grades are not known.

The crags face south and make great winter venues - summers here would be hotter that hell. The cliffs are sheltered, take very little drainage and dry rapidly.

There is a good quality steep new crag that is in the shade in the afternoon. Development is still taking place (April 2017). It is at the side of the lake formed by the dam. Park on the dam wall and go down the steps to the base of the first routes (1 min). There are many more new harder routes further right than those listed here. Go on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon and ask the locals for details. The topo that is being written was photographed. Check the crag photos

Approach notes

The small town of Mula is 30km west of Murcia, reached via the C415 which branches west off the E7/A15. Follow this for 21km and exit at Junction 20 - Mula Centro. Go round the roundabout and under the motorway. At the next roundabout take the first available right (immediately after the no entry signs for the motorway slip road - care needed) signed 'Embalsa la Cierva' and 'Ecopark'. Drive up here for 2.3km until just past the solar array. 

Sector La Presa - turn left and drive down steeply and round to a choice of parking spots, on the left ('Zona recreative') under the crag (can be boggy) or above the cliff, by the dam.

Sector La Presa - Lakeside - Continue along the tarmac past the dirt road turning for Ferrari and after about a km you pass the dam buildings and drive onto the dam wall itself. Park at the far end and go down the steps on the right to the waterside and the base of the first route.

Sector Ferrari - continue along the road for another 0.9km and turn right. Drive under the motorway and follow the rough cobbly road as it swings left then rises round some bends and up onto the plateau. There is parking on the left by a shady tree 2.8km after passing under the motorway. A good track leads to the cliff-top 100m away.

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Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

Rockfax topo looks dodgy around Wau ... Elisa. Wau is clearly identifiable, but then on the rock there's only one more bolt line before the 7a, whereas the guide has two 6bs. Also, Nirvana doesn't seem to be bolted; presumably it's a trad route on threads.
will_benfold - 04/Jan/17
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sector Abuelo - Gruyer
2 Pacum
-
5a *  
3 Abu
-
4c *  
4 Pimpagua
-
5c *  
5 007
-
6a+ *  
6 El Menhir de Obelix
-
6a *  
7 Gagando vinagre
-
6b *** 1
8 Mirate las yemas
-
6c ***  
9 Campusina
-
6a *  
10 Manolo cojeme la piedra
-
5c *  
11 Hormigaz
-
6c *  
12 Paquito el chocolatero
-
5c *  
13 Luna creciente
-
6a **  
14 Desvir game
-
5a **  
15 Me saltan los puntos
-
6c+ **  
16 Agromenaguer
-
6a+ **  
17 Japerus
-
6a+ ** 1
18 Me pillas liao
-
6b ** 1
19 New route 1
-
6a **  
20 New Route 2
-
6b **  
21 Soñica
-
6a+ **  
22 Feromonas de yegua
-
6c **  
23 La madre del corderos
-
6a **  
24 La Pepa 2 1
  Sector Abuelo - Fisuras
26 El Ultimo bicho
-
7b **  
27 Gitano
-
6a *  
28 Esher
-
7a+ *  
29 Piedad 2 1
30 Seman rampa 6b  
31 Osirio el infatico 2 1
32 Nini malo
-
6b+ ***  
33 Panzas de burra
-
6a+ ** 1
34 Correcaminos
-
6a+ *  
35 Fisura con Hermosura
-
6a ** 1
36 El techo del macho 7a+ **  
37 El macho
-
6b+ *** 1
38 A tu tito
-
7a+ **  
39 Fisura Taeni
-
6b ***  
40 Travesia Dolomiti
-
6c  
41 Fisuro Abuelico
-
6a+ ***  
42 Aprieta bien duro, el culo
-
6c+ ***  
43 Osito Osito 2
-
6b+ ***  
44 Yogurin
-
6c ***  
45 El increible Jul
-
7c+ ***  
46 Esaboria
-
7b ***  
47 Escuela de calor 2  
48 Julipan
-
6c+ ***  
49 Pipo
-
6c+ **  
50 Fisura Corque
-
6a+ **  
51 Diablesa
-
6b **  
52 Probe Miguel
-
7a **  
  Sector Abuelo - Zona Alta
54 Huertanica
-
6c+ ***  
55 Murcianica
-
6c+ ***  
56 Orzo Guey
-
6b **  
57 Mazinger Z
-
6c ***  
58 Calabobos
-
6a+ **  
59 Cuemum
-
6b+ *** 2
60 Esto no es una via ferrata
-
6b+ ***  
61 El 4 de los Navarros
-
7a+ ***  
62 Hermano
-
7a **  
63 La 69
-
7b+ *  
64 La chorrera
-
6c+ **  
65 Chinchetilla
-
6a+ ** 2
66 Come, duerme, folla escala y calla
-
6a * 2
67 El dia perfecto
-
6a+ * 1
68 Con manubrio en la mano
-
6b+  
69 Rure
-
5c **  
70 No te agarres al arbol
-
6a **  
71 Barbi reuniones
-
6a+ **  
72 El perro verde
-
6b+ **  
73 Barbi montanera
-
6b * 1
74 Kent escalador
-
6a **  
75 Zamorano
-
5c ** 2
76 El Palomo
-
6a ** 2
77 Mirame los calcetines
-
5a 1
78 Braulia
-
4c * 1
79 Tercero aereo
-
4c 1
80 Obdulia
-
4c 1
81 Via Apu
-
4c 1
82 Nacu Nacu
-
6a+  
83 Ippon
-
5c 1
84 Shoreikan
-
6c  
85 El Oliva
-
6b  
86 Capitan Una
-
6b  
87 Juputa
-
6b  
88 Super Mario
-
6b  
89 Chaparrasca
-
6b  
90 El poyon de Kike
-
6a+  
  Sector Ferrari
92 Sogun 8a **  
93 Sucina 8a+ **  
94 Fissuros 7a * 1
95 Bohemia 6a * 2
96 No Senda de Jano 5a 7
97 Senda de Jano 3 * 9
98 El Karma 5a * 9
99 Bromas no Gracias 4a * 8
100 Suspiros 5c * 4
101 Atrame 6a+ * 3
102 Mentira 6c * 3
103 Acoojoneitor 6b * 1
104 Pescozon 6c+  
105 Wapa 6b ** 5
106 Puton Verbenero 7a  
107 Master 7b  
108 Desbrozadora Humana 6c ** 3
109 Osaka 6c+ ** 3
110 Las Medias pas las tiras 6b 2
111 Pinipon 6a+ * 3
112 Sikozen 5c ** 10
113 Peskera 6a * 2
114 Dojitsu 6a+ *  
115 Ramses 6a 1
116 Wau 6a+ * 1
117 Duendeando 6b ** 6
118 Tropico Utpoico 6b ** 11
119 Elisa 7a * 5
120 Violeta 6a *** 14
121 La Primera 6a+ *** 13
122 Al Grano 6a ** 8
123 Cuesta de Pako 6a * 2
124 Nirvana 6a **  
125 Lula 8a *  
126 Siamesa 7b+ *** 1
127 Hermanas 7b *** 13
128 Libertad 7b+ *** 5
129 Deseo 7c+ ***  
130 Espolonia 7c+ ***  
131 Banana Jack 7b+ *** 1
132 Pata Negra 8a **  
133 Mundaka 6c+ *** 9
134 Sikadur 7a+ ** 3
135 Suenos 7c+ ***  
136 Ramera 7b+ *** 6
137 Cartegenera 6a+ *** 20
138 Techo de Carta 6b ** 2
139 Oltra Techo 6c+ **  
140 Chispas 7b+ **  
141 Puff 8a *** 2
142 Ave Cesar 8a+ **  
143 Flipante 6b+ ** 3
144 La Hija Silvia 6a ** 11
145 Junko 4c * 6
146 Diedroki 5c *** 17
147 Artifo 5c *  
148 O Sel Ling 5a * 2
149 La Ultima 5a ** 12
150 Pico 8a ***  
  Sector La Presa
152 Granadinos Satélites 6c **  
153 Jou de Cabrons 6b+ **  
154 Rubio 7a **  
155 Colorin 7c *  
156 Cordinos 6b+ * 1
157 Chocholina 7a+ *  
158 Sabrina 7b *  
159 Ave Nocturna 7a *  
160 Pájaro Fósil 6c+ **  
161 Juega Con Mi Rajita 6b+ *  
162 Juega Con Mi Verga 6b ** 3
163 El Tío Del Maletín 7b+ *  
164 Chochos Voladores 6b *** 7
165 Víctor 7a *  
166 Zipi 6b * 1
167 Zape 6a+ * 3
168 Que Difícil Me Salió 7c+  
169 Algarrobo 6b+ **  
170 Voy a Ser Papá 6a * 7
171 La Primera 5c * 14
172 La Negra Flor 6a ** 8
173 Machu Picha 6b * 3
174 Chocho Baby 5c * 6
175 Cataplines 5c * 6
176 Alerones 5a * 19
177 Señorita a Domicilio 3 2
178 Kijano 3 3
179 Pedrolo Volador 4a 7
180 Ale Churri 4a * 11
181 Estrecha 4a * 15
182 Junko 6a ** 17
183 Manos Unidas 4c * 20
184 Año Mariano 4a * 18
185 Bosch 4a * 17
186 Castro 4c * 19
187 Pelota Saltarina 4c * 17
188 El Hombre Sin Cuerpo 4c * 10
189 Copón S.L. 5a * 15
190 Piensa en Verde 5a * 16
  Lakeside Crag - bottom of the steps down from the dam wall
192 Roca Adictiva *
-
7b  
193 Danza Vertical *
-
6b+  
194 Coronel Lombriz *
-
6b+ 1
195 Olivia *
-
6b+ 1
196 Valeria *
-
6c 1
197 Captain Salami *
-
6a+ 1
198 Restaurada *
-
6b+  
199 Carata de Alvaro *
-
6b+  
200 Cepislalidia *
-
7a  
201 5 Largo *
-
6a 1
202 Guly *
-
6b+  
203 La Tapa de la Zananoria *
-
6b  
204 Oruso Ingemtil *
-
6b+ 1
205 Dios Indio *
-
6c  
206 El Despertar *
-
7a+  
207 Tita Power *
-
7b  
208 Chorrera *
-
7b  
209 Pelotas de Pancho *
-
7b  
210 Pancho *
-
6c  
  Trackside wall - below the main crag
212 La Puella de Coyillas *
-
4b  
213 Proteccion Gel *
-
4c  
214 La Chapa de la Cocu Cota *
-
5b  
215 Cou Chaulas y a la Lac *
-
6a  
216 Aslata al Congreso *
-
6b  
217 F *
-
6c  
218 Gemela I *
-
6a+  
219 Gemela D *
-
6a+  
220 Vuelo Sinmotor *
-
6b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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