Climbs 218
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 514m a.s.l
Faces S

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Sam on the initial crux roof © Si Witcher

Crag features

Inland from the throbbing metropolis of Murcia you enter real spaghetti-western territory, scattered amongst the badlands are some interesting hills and at least one decent crag. Mula has two main sectors, but plenty of other bits of rock in the area appear to have been developed too. La Presa is the section by the dam, with 30 routes across the grades on good rock. Sector Ferrari overlooks the motorway and has almost 60 routes including many steep test-pieces. Most people will be able to fill a day or two here.

Sector Abuelo is a newly developed sector (not in the Rockfax guide) further along the escarpment overlooking the Murcia to Caravaca dual carriageway from Sector Ferrari. The left-hand section has superb jug pulling on conglomerate pockets. An exceptionally good venue which has proved to be one of the most popular in the Murcia area. Routes graded F2 are not F2 but are new routes whose grades are not known.

The crags face south and make great winter venues - summers here would be hotter that hell. The cliffs are sheltered, take very little drainage and dry rapidly.

There is a good quality steep new crag that is in the shade in the afternoon. Development is still taking place (April 2017). It is at the side of the lake formed by the dam. Park on the dam wall and go down the steps to the base of the first routes (1 min). There are many more new harder routes further right than those listed here. Go on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon and ask the locals for details. The topo that is being written was photographed. Check the crag photos

Approach notes

The small town of Mula is 30km west of Murcia, reached via the C415 which branches west off the E7/A15. Follow this for 21km and exit at Junction 20 - Mula Centro. Go round the roundabout and under the motorway. At the next roundabout take the first available right (immediately after the no entry signs for the motorway slip road - care needed) signed 'Embalsa la Cierva' and 'Ecopark'. Drive up here for 2.3km until just past the solar array. 

Sector La Presa - turn left and drive down steeply and round to a choice of parking spots, on the left ('Zona recreative') under the crag (can be boggy) or above the cliff, by the dam.

Sector La Presa - Lakeside - Continue along the tarmac past the dirt road turning for Ferrari and after about a km you pass the dam buildings and drive onto the dam wall itself. Park at the far end and go down the steps on the right to the waterside and the base of the first route.

Sector Ferrari - continue along the road for another 0.9km and turn right. Drive under the motorway and follow the rough cobbly road as it swings left then rises round some bends and up onto the plateau. There is parking on the left by a shady tree 2.8km after passing under the motorway. A good track leads to the cliff-top 100m away.

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Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

Rockfax topo looks dodgy around Wau ... Elisa. Wau is clearly identifiable, but then on the rock there's only one more bolt line before the 7a, whereas the guide has two 6bs. Also, Nirvana doesn't seem to be bolted; presumably it's a trad route on threads.
will_benfold - 04/Jan/17
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sector Abuelo - Gruyer
2 Pacum
-
5a *  
3 Abu
-
4c *  
4 Pimpagua
-
5c *  
5 007
-
6a+ *  
6 El Menhir de Obelix
-
6a *  
7 Gagando vinagre
-
6b *** 2
8 Mirate las yemas
-
6c ***  
9 Campusina
-
6a *  
10 Manolo cojeme la piedra
-
5c *  
11 Hormigaz
-
6c *  
12 Paquito el chocolatero
-
5c *  
13 Luna creciente
-
6a **  
14 Desvir game
-
5a **  
15 Me saltan los puntos
-
6c+ **  
16 Agromenaguer
-
6a+ **  
17 Japerus
-
6a+ ** 1
18 Me pillas liao
-
6b ** 1
19 New route 1
-
6a **  
20 New Route 2
-
6b **  
21 Soñica
-
6a+ **  
22 Feromonas de yegua
-
6c **  
23 La madre del corderos
-
6a **  
24 La Pepa 2a 1
  Sector Abuelo - Fisuras
26 El Ultimo bicho
-
7b **  
27 Gitano
-
6a * 1
28 Esher
-
7a+ *  
29 Piedad 2a 1
30 Seman rampa 6b  
31 Osirio el infatico 2a 1
32 Nini malo
-
6b+ ***  
33 Panzas de burra
-
6a+ ** 1
34 Correcaminos
-
6a+ *  
35 Fisura con Hermosura
-
6a ** 2
36 El techo del macho 7a+ **  
37 El macho
-
6b+ *** 2
38 A tu tito
-
7a+ **  
39 Fisura Taeni
-
6b *** 2
40 Travesia Dolomiti
-
6c  
41 Fisuro Abuelico
-
6a+ *** 1
42 Aprieta bien duro, el culo
-
6c+ ***  
43 Osito Osito 2
-
6b+ ***  
44 Yogurin
-
6c ***  
45 El increible Jul
-
7c+ ***  
46 Esaboria
-
7b *** 1
47 Escuela de calor 2a  
48 Julipan
-
6c+ ***  
49 Pipo
-
6c+ **  
50 Fisura Corque
-
6a+ ** 1
51 Diablesa
-
6b ** 1
52 Probe Miguel
-
7a **  
  Sector Abuelo - Zona Alta
54 Huertanica
-
6c+ *** 2
55 Murcianica
-
6c+ *** 2
56 Orzo Guey
-
6b **  
57 Mazinger Z
-
6c ***  
58 Calabobos
-
6a+ ** 1
59 Cuemum
-
6b+ *** 3
60 Esto no es una via ferrata
-
6b+ ***  
61 El 4 de los Navarros
-
7a+ ***  
62 Hermano
-
7a **  
63 La 69
-
7b+ *  
64 La chorrera
-
6c+ ** 1
65 Chinchetilla
-
6a+ ** 3
66 Come, duerme, folla escala y calla
-
6a * 3
67 El dia perfecto
-
6a+ * 2
68 Con manubrio en la mano
-
6b+  
69 Rure
-
5c **  
70 No te agarres al arbol
-
6a **  
71 Barbi reuniones
-
6a+ **  
72 El perro verde
-
6b+ **  
73 Barbi montanera
-
6b * 1
74 Kent escalador
-
6a ** 1
75 Zamorano
-
5c ** 3
Climb name Grade
76 El Palomo
-
6a ** 2
77 Mirame los calcetines
-
5a 1
78 Braulia
-
4c * 1
79 Tercero aereo
-
4c 1
80 Obdulia
-
4c 1
81 Via Apu
-
4c 1
82 Nacu Nacu
-
6a+ 1
83 Ippon
-
5c 2
84 Shoreikan
-
6c 1
85 El Oliva
-
6b 1
86 Capitan Una
-
6b  
87 Juputa
-
6b  
88 Super Mario
-
6b  
89 Chaparrasca
-
6b  
90 El poyon de Kike
-
6a+  
  Sector Ferrari
92 Sogun 8a ** 2
93 Sucina 8a+ **  
94 Fissuros 7a * 6
95 Bohemia 6a * 2
96 No Senda de Jano 5a 12
97 Senda de Jano 3a * 12
98 El Karma 5a * 13
99 Bromas no Gracias 4a * 11
100 Suspiros 5c * 7
101 Atrame 6a+ * 6
102 Mentira 6c * 6
103 Acoojoneitor 6b * 3
104 Pescozon 6c+  
105 Wapa 6b ** 9
106 Puton Verbenero 7a 3
107 Master 7b 1
108 Desbrozadora Humana 6c ** 9
109 Osaka 6c+ ** 3
110 Las Medias pas las tiras 6b 5
111 Pinipon 6a+ * 10
112 Sikozen 5c ** 29
113 Peskera 6a * 10
114 Dojitsu 6a+ * 4
115 Ramses 6a 4
116 Wau 6a+ * 5
117 Duendeando 6b ** 18
118 Tropico Utpoico 6b ** 23
119 Elisa 7a * 10
120 Violeta 6a *** 43
121 La Primera 6a+ *** 35
122 Al Grano 6a ** 17
123 Cuesta de Pako 6a * 8
124 Nirvana 6a ** 5
125 Lula 8a *  
126 Siamesa 7b+ *** 4
127 Hermanas 7b *** 28
128 Libertad 7b+ *** 8
129 Deseo 7c+ ***  
130 Espolonia 7c+ *** 2
131 Banana Jack 7b+ *** 1
132 Pata Negra 8a **  
133 Mundaka 6c+ *** 22
134 Sikadur 7a+ ** 8
135 Suenos 7c+ *** 1
136 Ramera 7b+ *** 17
137 Victor (Ferrari) * 6b *** 1
138 Cartegenera 6a+ *** 48
139 Techo de Carta 6b ** 8
140 Oltra Techo 6c+ **  
141 Chispas 7b+ **  
142 Puff 8a *** 4
143 Ave Cesar 8a+ **  
144 Flipante 6b+ ** 7
145 La Hija Silvia 6a ** 24
146 Junko 4c * 18
147 Diedroki 5c *** 42
148 Artifo 5c * 2
149 O Sel Ling 5a * 2
150 La Ultima 5a ** 26
Climb name Grade
151 Pico 8a ***  
152 Right of puff *
-
7b+ 2
153 Unknown *
-
7a+ 3
  Sector La Presa
155 Granadinos Satélites 6c **  
156 Jou de Cabrons 6b+ **  
157 Rubio 7a **  
158 Colorin 7c *  
159 Cordinos 6b+ * 1
160 Chocholina 7a+ *  
161 Sabrina 7b *  
162 Ave Nocturna 7a *  
163 Pájaro Fósil 6c+ ** 1
164 Juega Con Mi Rajita 6b+ * 1
165 Juega Con Mi Verga 6b ** 5
166 El Tío Del Maletín 7b+ *  
167 Chochos Voladores 6b *** 14
168 Víctor 7a *  
169 Zipi 6b * 2
170 Zape 6a+ * 6
171 Que Difícil Me Salió 7c+  
172 Algarrobo 6b+ **  
173 Voy a Ser Papá 6a * 10
174 La Primera 5c * 20
175 La Negra Flor 6a ** 17
176 Machu Picha 6b * 6
177 Chocho Baby 5c * 11
178 Cataplines 5c * 11
179 Alerones 5a * 31
180 Señorita a Domicilio 3a 3
181 Kijano 3a 3
182 Pedrolo Volador 4a 11
183 Ale Churri 4a * 18
184 Estrecha 4a * 23
185 Junko 6a ** 28
186 Manos Unidas 4c * 28
187 Año Mariano 4a * 28
188 Bosch 4a * 36
189 Castro 4c * 33
190 Pelota Saltarina 4c * 23
191 El Hombre Sin Cuerpo 4c * 15
192 Copón S.L. 5a * 23
193 Piensa en Verde 5a * 27
  Lakeside Crag - bottom of the steps down from the dam wall
195 Roca Adictiva *
-
7b  
196 Danza Vertical *
-
6b+  
197 Coronel Lombriz *
-
6b+ 1
198 Olivia *
-
6b+ 1
199 Valeria *
-
6c 1
200 Captain Salami *
-
6a+ 1
201 Restaurada *
-
6b+  
202 Carata de Alvaro *
-
6b+  
203 Cepislalidia *
-
7a  
204 5 Largo *
-
6a 1
205 Guly *
-
6b+  
206 La Tapa de la Zananoria *
-
6b  
207 Oruso Ingemtil *
-
6b+ 3
208 Dios Indio *
-
6c 2
209 El Despertar *
-
7a+ 2
210 Tita Power *
-
7b  
211 Chorrera *
-
7b  
212 Pelotas de Pancho *
-
7b 2
213 Pancho *
-
6c 2
214 Requiem el Negu *
-
6b+ 1
  Trackside wall - below the main crag
216 La Puella de Coyillas *
-
4b 1
217 Proteccion Gel *
-
4c  
218 La Chapa de la Cocu Cota *
-
5b  
219 Cou Chaulas y a la Lac *
-
6a  
220 Aslata al Congreso *
-
6b 1
221 F *
-
6c  
222 Gemela I *
-
6a+  
223 Gemela D *
-
6a+  
224 Vuelo Sinmotor *
-
6b 1
225 Marta *
-
7a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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