Climbs 75
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 352m a.s.l

El Diente © Warren Earle

Crag features

A wonderfully atmospheric large mountain crag set in a beautiful rural setting. The climbing varies from single pitch sports climbs to long semi equipped trad routes.

One of the main features of the cliff is the large impressive detached pinnacle of El Diente easily located to the right of Pared Gris. The five routes which reach the summit are fully bolted and new abseil chains have been installed on the top in Feb 2011, The abseil into the breche only requires a 60 metres rope as there is another abseil point on the opposite wall.

Approach notes

From Cieza take the C330 towards Mula. To avoid Cieza town centre take the second exit off the Murcia-Albacete dual carriageway. At the roundabout ignore the Cieza sign and take the 1st exit towards Ascoy. At the junction turn left, go under the railway bridge and continue into Cieza passing a Renault dealership to your left. At the traffic lights (large Mercadona sign on your left) turn right. Ignore a right turn which is sign posted Caravaca. Go through a narrowing which is controlled by traffic lights and cross the bridge over the Rio Segura. After 4k take a right turn signposted Embalse del Quipar. At 10k after passing Sector El Puente there is a left fork going to the Embalse Delcarcabo. Just after this turning is a dirt road signposted Fuente Delobispo. Take this track for about 2k, turn left at a small white monument (well?) and then the next forestry track on right. Look for cairns which mark the paths up to the different sector

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sector Dracula
2 Hijos el Agobio
-
7b+  
3 Cholun Bolon
-
Project  
4 Gato Volador
-
Project  
5 El Ya Ya
-
8b  
6 Pervertida
-
8a+  
7 Rarezas
-
8b  
8 Chupa Sangre
-
8a  
9 Objetivo Hussein
-
8a  
10 La Embrujada de los Necios
-
8b  
11 La Noche me Confunde
-
8b+  
12 Brakulhez
-
7b  
13 Parretoski
-
6c+  
14 Parre y Cas
-
6a  
15 La Guarra
-
5c  
16 Suenos Humedas
-
Project  
17 Almejas y Mejillones
-
8a+  
  Sector La Balsa
19 Chocolate con churros
-
6a+  
20 Tatuaje solar
-
6a+  
21 Morocco
-
6a+ **  
22 Confesiones
-
5a  
23 San Patras
-
4c  
  Pared Primera
25 Arista Sur
-
VS 4c  
26 Diagonal
-
HVS 5a  
27 Espolon Directo
-
VS 4c  
  Sector Dartanan
29 Escritura y Condena
-
6b  
30 La Primera
-
6b+  
31 Sin nombre
-
6b+  
32 Sin Nombre
-
6c+  
33 Sin Nombre (un-named)
-
7a  
34 Echa le chapas
-
7a+  
35 ia Mimor
-
7b  
36 no name A
-
7b  
37 no name B
-
7c  
38 no name C
-
7b  
  Pared Gris
40 Mochilo
-
5a  
41 Pincho
-
5a  
42 Gazpacho
-
5a  
43 Bueno y que
-
VS  
44 Melomania
-
HVS 5a  
45 Sol Azul
-
HVS 5a  
46 Misterio en la oscuridad
-
HVS  
47 La pesadilla del Fricli
-
E3 5c  
48 Amanecer en Tripoli
-
E4 6a  
49 Fierabras E4 6a  
50 Don Quijote 6a+  
51 Viaje al moro
-
6b  
  Sector La Encia
53 Nudos
-
3+  
54 El tren de la bruja
-
4c  
55 Crisis
-
6a  
56 Tabula rasa
-
6a+  
57 Cristales rotos
-
5a  
58 Seis b,je,je
-
7a+  
59 Cronos
-
5c  
  El Diente
61 Arista
-
5a 1
62 Libertad 6b+  
63 Arco Iris
-
5a  
64 Sinfonia Alpina
-
6b  
65 Correcaminos
-
5a  
  Pared Roja
67 Innocencia E2 5c  
68 Sendro en el tiempo E2 5c  
69 Espolon Inaugural E1 5c  
70 Olivas Negras E1 5b  
  Pared de En Medio
72 Via de los Pepes E1 5b  
73 Valle de Ricote 6b  
74 Pilar de Cagitan E1 5b  
  Torre Nocturna
76 La cola del dragon
-
HVS 5a  
77 Espolon Nocturno
-
VS 4c  
  Sector Circo Oriental
79 Siberia VS 4c  
  Sector Piruli
81 Crak obvia
-
6b  
82 Via de los Juanjos 5c  
83 Corretones
-
4c  
84 Brecha del Quipar
-
3  
  Torres del Carcabo
86 Brecha del indio
-
VS 4b/4c  
87 Fisura Cherokee
-
6b  
88 Tomahawk
-
6a  
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