Climbs 447
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 75m a.s.l
Faces SW

john gaskins on hugh 9a © DEvans

Crag features

A stunningly beutiful crag set in the Charente just south of Angouleme boasting some magnificent routes of varying degrees of difficulty. Routes range from 3 to "Hugh" at 9a! Most of which are 5 and above but there is plenty lower in the grade if you do a tour of the valley.

All routes are bolted with one or two exceptions that are A0/A1. The bolts are generally good, spaced nicely and there are chains or double bolts in situ for a lower off / abseil. Alternatively access to the top of the crag is good although take a machette in the summer months.

* The valley boasts 28 seperate blocs / Buttresses each described in the climb list with their climbs below. The blocs are numbered from right to left but for each bloc the climbs are described from Left to Right parking is at bloc 10.

The updated guide book (2012)lists 42 separate blocs, the total number of climbs is still around the 450 mark. The 2012 guide also numbers the blocs from left to right along with the climbs on the bloc, parking is located at the base of bloc 21.

Approach notes

Popular with runners and cyclists alike, parking is good but it can get quite busy at weekends. The new guide mentions where access should be 'respected'

The blocs are now numbered from left to right with the climbs continuing to be described from Left to Right. Parking is at bloc 21 adjacent to the noticeboard. Beyond the parking area is the access road to the paper mill - no further parking is available and there is no turning space.

Access to bloc 19 is up the marked track to the west of bloc 18 and not the newly trodden direct path from the road. The beret-wearing gentleman from the paper mill with the flailing arms did suggest that we used another path...

Guidebook available from the tourist office in Angouleme and the local Decathlon store.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

I visited this place in August 2013 and really liked it. The rocks are beautiful and most bolts are in excellent condition. Many of the climbs on the largest rock (at the large parking) are quite hard due to the tough overhang at the foot at the rock. Be sure to check the smaller blocs hidden behind the trees along the road out as well, especially if you want to avoid the direct sun in summer. To get there, ask for the 'Moulin de Verger' in Puymoyen or set your navigation device to 'Rue du Moulin du Verger 1'. The signs claim the road in a rather wealthy neighborhood was a dead end, but it turns into a country trail and brings you to the rocks, about 400 meters after the last house.
dfsp_spirit - 31/Aug/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Bloc de la cheminee (1)
2 La Rosee
-
5c * 3
3 Bidoigts pour monocephales
-
7a  
4 La PJ
-
6a 1
5 La Pejibus
-
6a+  
6 Pied nickele contre doigts d'acier
-
7a+  
7 Cocoricodoigts
-
7b  
8 Le con de Florence
-
7a *  
9 La grande forn
-
7b  
10 La traversee imperiale
-
6a * 1
11 La grande ravier
-
7a+ 1
12 La 9e symphonie
-
6a  
13 Le Zebulon
-
6a+  
14 La chiminee
-
4c 2
15 Think punk
-
6c  
16 Si signore
-
7a  
17 La proue
-
6a 1
18 La 7e hard
-
7a  
19 La Ouistiti
-
6a 1
20 La traversier (a 2 m du sol)
-
7a 1
  Les Terrasses et Le balcon (2)
22 Re
-
3  
23 Cu
-
3+  
24 R e
-
4c 2
25 Ra
-
4a  
26 Gremlins
-
5a 1
27 Black trombone
-
5a 2
28 Salle temp pour les louches
-
7a+  
29 Le Balcon
-
3+  
30 Demoniaque Mr Newton
-
7b  
31 Le Croissant Rouge
-
6a 1
32 Le Voie de doite
-
4c  
  Le Miroir (3)
34 Calin Paillard
-
5c 1
35 La Voie de Gauche
-
5a 1
36 Le fete de nerfs
-
6a 1
37 Mortelle randonee
-
6b  
38 In Extremis
-
6c  
39 La Snoopy
-
6b  
40 La Direct Geurin
-
6b  
41 La Spartiate (varient du depart)
-
6a  
42 La Gratonnique velue
-
6c  
43 La coeur de lion
-
6b+ 1
44 Le moyenne ravier
-
6c 1
45 La Traversee du miroir
-
5a * 1
46 La doigts dans la nez
-
7a  
47 Dragees sans bapteme
-
7a 1
48 Les Abeilles
-
5c 2
49 L'ascent'heurt
-
4a 2
  La gousseault (4)
51 Big Foot
-
7a  
52 La Voici
-
7a+ 1
53 La Gousseault
-
7b+  
54 Andantino
-
7c+  
55 Take your fingers out of it!
-
8a  
56 Tonight
-
7b+  
57 La Reviola
-
7a 1
58 La peur aux doigts
-
7a  
59 La mere michue
-
4a 1
60 Arete michue
-
3+  
  Le Dalles Lassie et L'indien (5)
62 Les dalles lassie
-
4c 1
63 La Dulfer
-
5a  
64 La Jump
-
6b  
65 La venitienne
-
7a  
66 Show lapin 7
-
7a  
67 La panama
-
7b  
68 Traversee der soupirs
-
5c 1
69 Traversee de Venise
-
6a  
70 Show Devant
-
6b  
71 Le petit dalle
-
3+  
72 Squaw vadis
-
6c  
73 L'indien
-
7a  
74 L'indien directe
-
7b  
75 Oeil de boullion gras
-
6b  
76 L'arete de poisson
-
3+ 2
77 Boss Frog
-
8a+  
  La Ravier / La Sans Nom / Le Renard (6)
79 Cendres de Lune
-
8a  
  Le Mur Guerin / Bloc Z (7)
81 Suspiria *
-
7c  
  La Brioche (8)
83 L'oeil du cyclone *
-
7a  
  Le Grand Toit (9)
  Falaise Principale (10)
86 Do *
-
6c  
87 Re *
-
5c 1
  Bloc De La Vielle Grand-mere (11)
89 Mi *
-
4a 1
  Bloc /du /moulin (12)
91 Fa *
-
3+ 1
92 (cle) *
-
4a 1
93 Sol *
-
4c 1
94 La *
-
3+ 1
95 Si *
-
3  
  Moved climbs
97 La Saintongeaise
-
5c 2
98 Enfin Libre
-
6b 1
99 La Voie Des Nids
-
6b 2
100 Rock To The Rescue
-
6b 1
101 Le Fil A Plomb
-
6b 1
102 Prises Rapides
-
5c 1
103 La Mortier
-
5c 1
104 La 26
-
5c 1
105 Bock Challenge f6B+ 1
106 Bak a Sable f6A 1
107 Tria De (sit-start)
-
f6C 1
108 Mea Culpa f7B+ * 1
109 Contact f7B+ ** 1
110 La Deirdre du Moulin
-
5a 1
111 Le Pilier d'angle
-
6a 1
112 La Terray
-
5c 1
113 La 69
-
5c 3
114 La Tellier
-
6a+ 1
115 Histories follies
-
6b 1
116 La Paulette
-
6b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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