Climbs 360
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 887m a.s.l
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Felipe Cabeça at " Black Sabbath, 8a fr" at Serra do Cipó © fernandolessa

Crag features

World-Class and very popular limestone sport venue. There are three climbing areas (massive outcrops in the middle of the savannah landscape) called Group 1, Group 2 and Group 3. The most popular sectors are in Group 1, home of the famous Sala da Justiça with some of the classic and most beautiful long and sustained routes of Serra do Cipó. The guidebook was released in 2015 but new routes have been added and a whole new sector, Rockmaster, was also developed after the guidebook was published.

Brazil has its own climbing grades, somewhat similar to the French grading system, which is used on this page. 

There is also an outstanding bouldering area nearby called Conceição do Mato Dentro that it is worth checking. Ask the locals!

Where to stay:

Abrigo G3 - owned by climbers and very convenient as you can walk to the crags. Email: magraodocipo@gmail.com. Website: abrigog3.blogspot.com. Telephone: +55(31)9681-6693

Refugio São Francisco - you will need a car to get to the crag. Website:  https://refugiosaofrancisco.com

How to get there: Get a domestic flight to Confins Airport (Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais) from any of the major aiports in Brazil. From there, you can hire a car and drive 73km to Serra do Cipo, via MG-010 going through a town called Lagoa Santa. You can also get there by bus from Belo Horizonte town centre (www.expressounir.com.br). Depends on where you are staying, you don´t really need a car in Cipo, so check with your hostel if they provide any transportation service from and to Confins Airport. 

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Group 1: Sector Zuma
2 Assombrolius e Bicolius
-
6b+ 1
3 Aracnofobia
-
5c 1
4 Nas Montanhas da lua
-
6c 2
5 Liseba
-
6c 2
6 Tobogã
-
7a+ 1
  Group 1: Sector Vale de Blair
8 Segredo De Blair
-
6b+ 1
9 10 Almas 7b 3
10 Via de Blair 6c 2
11 Dulce Amargo
-
7a 1
12 Sutra
-
6b+ 1
13 Leão da Montanha
-
7a 1
14 Mr Blair
-
6c+ 1
15 Solstício De Inverno
-
6c+ 1
  Group 1: Sector Vale do Papagaio
17 Mani Para Los Monos
-
6c+ 1
18 Torre De Babel
-
6c 1
19 Chicamocha
-
6c 1
20 Jogo Rápido
-
6c 1
21 Fim de Tarde
-
6b+ 1
22 Samba Pra Iaiá
-
6c+ 1
23 Entre Ilhas 6c+ 1
24 Gigantinho 6c+ 1
25 Pai Coruja 6c+ 1
26 Amor Incondicional 6c 1
27 Gigall-In 7a 2
28 Braços Morgados, Dedos Rosados
-
7a+ 1
  Group 1: Sector Yoga
30 Namastê
-
7a 1
31 Pujha
-
6c+ 1
32 Buda
-
6c+ 1
33 Surya
-
6c+ 1
34 Sabedoria Oriental
-
6b+ 1
  Group 1: Sector Serra Pelada
36 Calientando
-
6b+ 1
37 Canil
-
6c+ 1
  Group 1: Sector Rockmaster
39 1 Em 100 * 5c 1
Climb name Grade
40 Anjo Negro * 6b+ 1
41 Mate Leao * 6a+ 1
42 Piedra Parada * 6b 1
43 2 Em 1 * 6c 1
44 Branquiara * 6c+ 1
45 Oiapoque * 6c 1
  Group 2: Sector Foda
47 Qual É A Nota?
-
6c+ 1
48 Você Decide
-
6b+ 1
49 Pra Elas
-
5c 1
  Group 2: Setor PCC
51 Só Rino 6b+ 2
52 Fogueteiro 6b+ 2
53 Pablo Escobar
-
7b 1
54 Escadinha
-
7a+ 1
55 Marfin
-
7a+ 1
56 Ébano
-
7a 1
57 Ressaca
-
6b+ 1
  Group 3: Sector Calada da Noite
59 Na Calada da Noite
-
7a+ 3
60 Michaelangelo
-
6b+ 1
61 Mestre Splinter
-
6b+ 1
62 Donatello
-
6c+ 2
  Group 3: Sector Anfiteatro
64 Dr Jekyll
-
6c+ 1
65 Johnny Quest 6b+ 6
  Group 3: Sector Caverna do Dragão
67 Vingador
-
7a+ 1
  Group 3: Sector Cangaço
69 Sextão Sessentão 6b+ 3
70 O Cravo e a Rosa
-
6c+ 1
  Group 3: Sector Melzinho
72 Melzinho Na Chupeta
-
5c 2
73 Sem Compromisso
-
6c 1
  Group 3: Lamúrias
75 Dilúvio Na Saens Peña 6c 1
76 O dia em que a terra parou 6c+ *** 3
77 Lamúrias de um viciado 6c+ *** 2
Climb name Grade
  Group 3: Sala da Justiça
79 Sinos de Aldebaran 7b+ ***  
80 Ética (first pitch) 7a *** 1
81 Ética Decomposta 7c+ ***  
82 Heróis da Resistência (first pitch) 7c *** 1
83 Bonitinha mas Ordinária 6b * 1
84 Injustiça Social 6a * 2
  Group 3: Sector Ninhos
86 Ninhos
-
6b 5
87 Salsa Punk 7a 3
88 Nobres Vagabundos 6a+ 1
89 Rei do Torresmo 6c * 3
  Group 3: Sector Vale da Perseguida
91 Chorreira Musical 6c 1
92 Andróide
-
7a+ 1
93 Entre as Pernas da Perseguida
-
7a+ 1
94 Oito Oito
-
6b+ 1
95 Legalize Já
-
6b+ 1
96 Vai mané
-
6c+ 1
  Group 3: Sector Thundercats
98 Cheetara
-
7a+ 1
99 Pó Pô Pó
-
6b 1
100 Diversão Garantida 6b ** 1
101 Arena da Morte 6c+ *** 1
102 Bárbaros
-
6c 4
  Group 3: Sector Vale Zen
104 Olho de Cristal 6c+ 2
105 Estriquinada
-
5c 1
106 Se Não Matar Engorda
-
6c+ 1
107 Carne Amarga
-
7a 1
108 Avenida Brasil
-
6b+ 1
109 Flash Black 6c 2
110 Avenida das Torres
-
6c 1
111 Jequitibá
-
6c+ 1
112 Senhores da Verdade 6c 1
113 Gigante Pela Própria Natureza 6c *** 2
114 Un named - new route *
-
5b 1
115 Un named - new route2 *
-
6c+ 1
116 Unknown new route * 6a+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Blitzkrieg Bop