Climbs 50
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 427m a.s.l
Faces SW

Area 1 © agolay

Crag features

Hawks Stones AKA Hugencroft

The crag has been 'off the radar' despite it's roadside position for many years due to ongoing disputes with local land owners. Please adhere to the BMC RAD and heed the notices.

The myriad of moorland buttresses and pinnacles provide an extensive array of bouldering and some quality trad lines. The rock is green in places (usually the north facing sections) and where it isn't green it is slightly scrittly - as you'd expect on a forgotten crag - nothing a soft brush won't solve, provided you're gentle...

The landings are varied but in the main are mostly good, however recent tree planting around the trad/highball sectors make landings here occasionally tricky and will eventually become tree-choked.

The crag gets any of the weather going - this means it can dry quickly but can also catch what little poor weather there is around!

Climbs have been given names for their addition to UKC. Please feel free to inform of their actual FA (If known) names. The Climbs are described LEFT to RIGHT and the list is far from definitive - it's a big crag!

Approach notes

Access to the crag is via a track from the Sportsmans

Access Advice

Access to this crag has a long history due to issues between the landowner and climbers. It is now designated as Open Access land under the CRoW Act and climbers have a statutory right of access. Climbers are asked to use the requested access route, and adhere to the following guidelines:

  • Please do not damage the fencing - use the stiles
  • No dogs
  • No defecation in the crag area
  • No wire brushing

The prominent ‘Sugarloaf’ boulder (western end) is not on Open Access land.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 5 April to 23 May

Reason: Other Conservation

The landowner's have the right to restrict access for 28 days/year for land management purposes. It is their responsibility to manage restrictions and notification should be errected at the main access point.

Guidebooks

Ive known about this crag for some time and wondered if it would ever get put up, it didn't so i went ahead and did it - not being that great at bouldering ive only put up a few easy climbs but there are loads more on offer! If you want something put up on here give me a shout - the more the merrier.
agolay - 16/Jun/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Block One
2 Sweet William f4 6
3 Barbara Allen f5 3
4 True Lover's Knot f4+ 4
  Block Two
6 Green Wall f6A 6
7 Royston Vasey Rib f4 6
8 Huggin' Aloft f4 6
9 Local's Wall f6A+ 4
10 Precious Things f6B+ * 3
  Cave & Cleft Area
12 Cave Squirm f5 1
13 Chimney Sweep f5+ 1
14 Flounder f6C * 2
15 Easy Crack f3 3
16 Easy Wall f4 2
  Block Four
  Undermined by Rabbits
19 Tumbling Down the Rabbit Hole f5 * 2
20 Undermined by Rabbits f6C+ * 4
21 Through the Looking Glass f5+ * 2
22 Of Cabbages and Kings f6B * 3
  Block Seven
24 Back Stabber f5+ 1
25 High Stakes f4+ 1
  Block Eight
27 Romp f4 2
  Block Nine
29 Pocket Direct
-
f5 1
  Hanging Groove
31 Vive le Tour! f6C * 3
  Block Eleven
33 Pocketed Arete f6A 1
34 Surprise Slab f5 * 2
  Watercourse Wall
36 Stile Wall HVS 4c 2
37 Old School Crack VS 4b *  
38 Gaz's Wall f7B  
39 Classic Crack HVS 5a *  
40 High and Mighty E2 5c * 3
  Hawks Stones Pinnacle
42 Come Walk With Me E5 6a ** 3
43 Easy Slab
-
f4+ 5
44 Three Tier Wall
-
f4+ 4
45 Holly Tree Arete
-
f6C 1
46 Sunshine Slab
-
f5 * 3
  Eagles Nest
48 Its Not My Stile E4 6a 3
49 Chips and Gravy
-
E3 5c 3
50 Eagles Nest HVS 5b *** 3
51 Raptor
-
HVS 4c * 1
52 Jordan and Ibbo's Wall
-
E5 6a  
  Hanging Seam
54 Hanging Seam
-
f5  
  Rams Head Slab
56 Suit Ewe
-
VS 4c *  
57 Suit Ewe Arete
-
HVS 5a  
58 Rams Head Slab
-
E3 5c 2
59 Arrhythmia E4 6a 2
60 Pulse Racer E6 6c ** 1
  Duelling Aretes
62 The Scoop
-
f7A  
63 Billy Elliot f6B+ ** 2
64 Stunning Arete f6B+ * 1
65 End of the Line
-
f5+ *  

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