Climbs 246
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1114m a.s.l
Faces S

Carillo-Cantabella - Leyva 5+ *** © Matt1234

Crag features

A long way south of the popular climbing areas around Benidorm and Calp, lurks Leyva, a major venue that is well worth a visit. It is a magnificent cliff of international significance with 60 major routes; the main face being a 150 metre high, south-facing wall of great rock. The early routes here were done in traditional style originally but all the best climbs are now fully bolted. All that is required for these is fifteen quickdraws and double ropes for the abseil descent. If you prefer to travel even lighter, and just use a single rope, it is possible to walk off the right-hand side of the cliff. Down and right of the main cliff there are two smaller crags with a good selection of single pitch sport climbs across a range of difficulty, the Sectors de la Cueva and Pecera.

The cliff faces south and is a great winter venue; it is possible to climb on the face in T-shirts whilst the hollows are filled with frost. If there is a wind blowing then you won't get much shelter on the high face. Summers are usually too hot as all the cliffs face almost due south.

Approach notes

Follow the motorway south from Alicante, round Murcia (80km) then continue southwards for another 22km to a turn off that runs into the town of Alhama de Murcia. Turn right in the centre of town onto the C3315 (signs for Mula) and follow this to a left turn about 6km from the edge of town signed 'El Berro 7.5km'. (Straight on is also signed to 'El Berro' but is 10km). Drive steeply uphill to a turning on the right to El Berro but continue straight for 3 kms. Turn right onto a tarmac road with white Regional Park signs. After 200m go right again onto good dirt road (Regional Park signs). Continue to the parking area after 1km. Take main track past green gates. The cliffs are a 30-50 minute walk up the main track. 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)

Out of print:
Fantastic crag 91 routes 100 - 200m long mixture of trad, semi bolted and fully bolted sport routes.
mike sh - 29/Mar/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Main Face
2 Pequeño Pepillo 6a *** 3
3 Carillo-Cantabella 5c *** 53
4 Gallego-Seiquer 6b ** 2
5 Carrillo - del Campo 6b+ ** 4
6 Riglos 6c ** 2
7 Fisura Carrillo - Vera 6b *** 10
8 Eiger 6c *** 1
9 Historia intermiable 6b+ *** 5
10 Gallego-Carillo 6b **  
11 Carnaval 6a+ ** 15
12 Yosemite 7b **  
13 Lavaredo 7a **  
14 Gallego - Hurtado 5c ** 2
15 Fisura Snoopy 6a *  
  Las Cuevas
17 Deseo 6c *** 1
18 La proa 7c+ *  
19 Saltamontes cagón 7a+ ** 1
20 La continuidad me va 7c ** 1
21 Copón de reyes 7b+ **  
22 Cricifixion 7a+  
23 Pelotilla colgadera 7a * 3
24 El cielo puede esperar 7a+ *** 7
25 Divinas palabras 7a+ *** 3
26 Hombre wpo 7b+ ***  
27 Sube tu que de risa 6b ** 3
28 Soy un cagalindres 7a+ *  
29 Poder de la mente 8a **  
30 Humeando y resbalosa 7b+ ** 3
31 Quien la sigue la consigue 8a *  
32 Crucifixión 7b **  
33 Señorita Calamidad 8b ***  
34 Café con leche Mon 8b+ ***  
35 Pank Floud 7b 2
36 Hostia Ernesto 6c ** 3
37 Subiendo como la espuma 7a *** 5
38 India 7b *** 2
39 Era un hombre... 8a ***  
40 Los picapiedra 6c+ * 2
41 Moniga atomica 6b ** 5
42 Chúpame la minga, dominga 6c 2
43 Yabadaba du 6b 1
44 Pumuky 6c  
45 Licantropo 7b+ **  
46 Marabunta 6a  
47 4+ que fobia 4c 5
48 Aquí no me caigo 6a  
49 Un beso o una flor 5c 3
50 No name 5c 3
51 Debiste 5c 1
  Derecha
53 Pajaro Ioco
-
6a  
54 Pajaro Ioco extension
-
7a  
55 Chicas Catolicas
-
2  
56 Mas te Vale Camaron
-
7b+  
57 Flaky de Maky
-
6c  
58 Solo una Sonrisa
-
6a  
59 Con Pelos ne la Lengua
-
6b+  
60 El beso negro
-
6a+ * 1
61 La dolorosa
-
6b * 1
62 La pinchosa
-
6c * 1
63 No es Broma Lo Que Desploma
-
8a 1
64 Route 11
-
6c  
65 Caga Superficial - (may not exist)
-
7c+  
66 Caja Hondo
-
7a+  
67 Tira de la Cadena
-
7b  
68 Hemorroides
-
7a+  
69 Cristina, Venta a mi Piscina
-
7a  
  Le Pecera
71 Diedro Barracuda 6a ** 8
72 Pez globo 6a * 4
73 Tiburón Martilla 6b ** 6
74 Congerie Belga 6c ** 3
75 El boquerón 6b+ ** 3
76 El mero 6b+ ** 1
77 Nudibranquio 6b+ * 1
78 El abadejo 7b  
79 Pulpo roquero 6b * 3
80 Lenguado Bulero 6a+ * 1
81 La manta ray 6a * 3
82 Pastinaca 6a * 4
83 El metillon colaro 6b * 4
84 El rascacio 6a * 4
85 El sarga real 6a+ * 4
86 La ballena azul 6a ** 7
87 La tortuga carey 5c ** 10
88 El delfín 5a ** 15
  To be checked
90 Bonsay * 6b+ *** 2
91 Espolón Terray * 5a * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83