Climbs 118
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 664m a.s.l
Faces SE

Soloing Johnny, Marin © Chris the Tall

Crag features

To the northwest of the double-town of Elda/Petrer is a prominent cream-coloured dome of rock where a slabby crag sits on the crest of the hill. Developed in the 1960's then rebolted in 1992, this is not a cliff for the hard-core but climbers who operate up to 6a and 6b should find a visit here very rewarding. 

The central section of the cliff is home to 20 pleasant low-grade climbs, up to 60m high, very well bolted, generally slabby and with some multi-pitch options. Many of the climbs have their names and approximate grades painted at their foot in large ugly writing. Five minutes walk further west is an excellent steeper crag which has a great set of slightly harder routes. There are also a few other routes dotted around on several smaller sectors that have good climbing and will usually be quieter.

The crag is southeast-facing and rapid-drying, though high enough to be exposed to the wind.

Approach notes

Take the A31 Madrid road northwest from Alicante for 32km to Elda/Petrer, pass the castle and then continue past the right turn at the sign 'Centro Commercial' (used on the approach to Penyal del Corb and Foradà). 800m after a petrol station, take the slip-road off to the right signed 'Elda' and 'Hospital' then loop back over the motorway and head back towards Elda. Go around a long right-hand bend to a roundabout (keep with the signs to Sax) and, after 1km, turn right at T-junction (signed 'Sax') and drive over a col. The road descends under power-lines, on a long right-hand bend; turn left immediately left of gates set under an orange tiled-roof ('La Curva') and follow the track for 1.3km. Turn left through some grey concrete gate posts with old rusty iron gates and park on the right after 1km at a large car park with information board on top of the hill. A track starts opposite the northern end of the car park and heads steeply to a col overlooking Elda, between the two main buttresses. The rocks are reached in less then ten minutes.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)

Out of print:
Parking for a few cars at first corner is still available, from here walk up path as described in rockfax which will bring you past Sector Senda and onwards to the main face. More parking is available further up the road where a path will lead you through to the area described as far left in Rockfax, alternatively there are three newer sectors on the same side as viewed from the parking area which give some welcome morning shade.
fatbuoybazza - 11/Apr/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Placas Pinchosas
2 Érase una vez 6a 59
3 5 minutos 5c * 84
4 Tormento vertical 6b+ 35
5 Por aquí menos 5a * 78
6 Por aquí cualquiera 4c * 119
7 Via Venneto 5a * 59
8 Hurly Burly 5a * 65
9 El sexo sentido 5c * 72
10 Out of control 4a * 121
  Cueva de Marín
12 Aventuras en pañales 3+ * 118
13 Novatos con gato 5c * 107
14 Pisando chapas 6a+ * 28
15 Si te dicen que cai 6b * 42
16 Descoco Tensión 6b *** 143
17 El Mono mecánica 6c ** 37
18 El Vuelo del Murciélago 6a ** 94
19 El Vuelo extension 6c+ 23
20 No name 7a 2
21 Techitos Free 6b+ * 28
22 Un lugar llamado libertad 7b+ *  
23 Alegato final 7b+ * 2
24 El vuelo del abuelo 6b ** 49
25 El dia de la bestia Project 4
26 El reino del vacio 6c * 9
27 El mascazo 6b 18
28 Mi ultima palabra 6b+ 7
29 Piluca que te desnucas 6a+ * 25
30 Paranoik 6a ** 134
31 Decoracion inminente 6b * 6
32 Hueco Roja 6b * 13
33 Un dia sin Alain 6a+ * 36
34 D.2 Mágicos 6b ** 49
35 Miedo me Da 6b * 38
36 Climb to the right of Miedo me Da 5c 6
37 Arana 7a 5
38 Los Churrukatas 4c 2
39 El Nino 4a 3
40 La Nina 3 2
  Sector Intermedio
42 La Gata novata 6c * 4
43 Super Jose 5c * 14
44 Fierecilla 6a+ 12
45 Supercosme 6a 12
46 No me jodas el grado, Nano 5c 19
47 La Marrana 5a 24
48 Wini Wini 5c * 23
49 No me toques el Chouchou 6a * 15
50 Ester Sabadell
-
6a+ ** 6
51 El Mojino 5c * 12
52 Huevecillos colgandillos 6a+ * 12
53 Machito Machoman 6a * 18
54 Conginipollas 6b 10
55 Esto es lo que quieres esto es lo que tiennes 6c 4
56 Super Freire 5c ** 22
57 Super Angel 5c * 3
58 La mala Vida 5c * 1
  Sector Clásico
60 Aniversario 5c *** 22
61 Jhony 4a *** 374
62 Cuatro latas 5c * 46
63 Anibal 6a 40
64 Con dos pelotas 6b+ * 2
65 Fuerza bruta 6c 11
66 El Nombre de los malditos de Satán 6b+ 5
67 Petreles 5a *** 147
68 Mermelada del futuro 6a 41
69 Placa gris 5c *** 126
70 Prats 4c *** 275
71 Súbete con la cuchara 6b * 22
72 Kiki 5c ** 57
73 Carmela 4a 22
74 Maika 4c ** 121
75 Paquita trueno 5a * 41
76 Dalia 5a ** 47
77 Agust 4c ** 153
78 Jake mate 5c *** 105
79 Puente aereo 5a ** 79
80 Manolito 5a ** 44
81 Capicua 4c ** 81
  Sector Senda
83 Matarile 6b 6
84 Chicho 5a * 24
85 Lemonchelo 5c * 17
86 Todo es empezar 5a 12
87 El dia que me case 6a 20
88 Tres amigos y una cuerda 6a+ * 11
89 Prueba y te gustara 6a+ * 10
90 Sacjustu 6a * 11
91 Quinto 5c 6
92 Salma 5a * 13
93 Paleta 5a * 7
94 Picoleta 5c 7
95 Villa latas 6b  
96 Rijapi 6a+ 2
97 Via vendeta 6a 2
  Sector Juegos de verano
99 Elemento V
-
6a  
100 El 80%
-
6b  
101 E. concentrado
-
6b+  
102 Mondo diagonal
-
6b+  
103 Un día con Alain
-
7b  
104 Tu que opinas
-
6b+  
105 Fifo
-
6a+  
106 Fofo
-
6b  
107 Tres pelos
-
6b  
108 Súper cazos
-
6b+  
  Sector Espolon Noroeste
110 En Singular
-
5c 3
111 Muy frágil
-
5a 3
112 Mi mejor amigo y yo
-
4a 1
113 Gravedad 0
-
4a 1
114 Salamandra
-
6a 2
115 Héroes de la ciudad
-
6b  
116 La Chorrera
-
6b+  
117 Histeria
-
7a  
118 Puedes o te ayudo
-
6a  
119 Variante
-
6a+ 1
  Sector Mini Noroeste
121 Tentetieso
-
5c  
122 Desorientativo "Sies a mas"
-
6b+  
123 Falangitis
-
7a  
124 Aprietas que te petas
-
7a+  
125 Hermano inhumano
-
6a  
126 A vista de pajaro
-
6a+  

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