Climbs 118
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 664m a.s.l
Faces SE

Soloing Johnny, Marin © Chris the Tall

Crag features

To the northwest of the double-town of Elda/Petrer is a prominent cream-coloured dome of rock where a slabby crag sits on the crest of the hill. Developed in the 1960's then rebolted in 1992, this is not a cliff for the hard-core but climbers who operate up to 6a and 6b should find a visit here very rewarding. 

The central section of the cliff is home to 20 pleasant low-grade climbs, up to 60m high, very well bolted, generally slabby and with some multi-pitch options. Many of the climbs have their names and approximate grades painted at their foot in large ugly writing. Five minutes walk further west is an excellent steeper crag which has a great set of slightly harder routes. There are also a few other routes dotted around on several smaller sectors that have good climbing and will usually be quieter.

The crag is southeast-facing and rapid-drying, though high enough to be exposed to the wind.

Approach notes

Take the A31 Madrid road northwest from Alicante for 32km to Elda/Petrer, pass the castle and then continue past the right turn at the sign 'Centro Commercial' (used on the approach to Penyal del Corb and Foradà). 800m after a petrol station, take the slip-road off to the right signed 'Elda' and 'Hospital' then loop back over the motorway and head back towards Elda. Go around a long right-hand bend to a roundabout (keep with the signs to Sax) and, after 1km, turn right at T-junction (signed 'Sax') and drive over a col. The road descends under power-lines, on a long right-hand bend; turn left immediately left of gates set under an orange tiled-roof ('La Curva') and follow the track for 1.3km. Turn left through some grey concrete gate posts with old rusty iron gates and park on the right after 1km at a large car park with information board on top of the hill. A track starts opposite the northern end of the car park and heads steeply to a col overlooking Elda, between the two main buttresses. The rocks are reached in less then ten minutes.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)

Out of print:
Parking for a few cars at first corner is still available, from here walk up path as described in rockfax which will bring you past Sector Senda and onwards to the main face. More parking is available further up the road where a path will lead you through to the area described as far left in Rockfax, alternatively there are three newer sectors on the same side as viewed from the parking area which give some welcome morning shade.
fatbuoybazza - 11/Apr/11
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Climbs at this crag

43Fierecilla6a+ 12
44Supercosme6a 12
45No me jodas el grado, Nano5c 18
46La Marrana5a 23
47Wini Wini5c *22
48No me toques el Chouchou6a *14
49Ester Sabadell
-
6a+ **6
50El Mojino5c *10
51Huevecillos colgandillos6a+ *11
52Machito Machoman6a *16
53Conginipollas6b 8
54Esto es lo que quieres esto es lo que tiennes6c 3
55Super Freire5c **22
56Super Angel5c *3
57La mala Vida5c *1
 Sector Clásico 
59Aniversario5c ***22
60Jhony4a ***361
61Cuatro latas5c *44
62Anibal6a 39
63Con dos pelotas6b+ *2
64Fuerza bruta6c 10
65El Nombre de los malditos de Satán6b+ 5
66Petreles5a ***142
67Mermelada del futuro6a 38
68Placa gris5c ***122
69Prats4c ***264
70Súbete con la cuchara6b *22
71Kiki5c **56
72Carmela4a 22
73Maika4c **123
74Paquita trueno5a *40
75Dalia5a **46
76Agust4c **146
77Jake mate5c ***105
78Puente aereo5a **76
79Manolito5a **44
80Capicua4c **80
 Sector Senda 
82Matarile6b 6
83Chicho5a *23
84Lemonchelo5c *16
85Todo es empezar5a 12
86El dia que me case6a 19
87Tres amigos y una cuerda6a+ *10
88Prueba y te gustara6a+ *9
89Sacjustu6a *11
90Quinto5c 6
91Salma5a *13
92Paleta5a *7
93Picoleta5c 7
94Villa latas6b  
95Rijapi6a+ 2
96Via vendeta6a 2
 Sector Juegos de verano 
98Elemento V
-
6a  
99El 80%
-
6b  
100E. concentrado
-
6b+  
101Mondo diagonal
-
6b+  
102Un día con Alain
-
7b  
103Tu que opinas
-
6b+  
104Fifo
-
6a+  
105Fofo
-
6b  
106Tres pelos
-
6b  
107Súper cazos
-
6b+  
 Sector Espolon Noroeste 
109En Singular
-
5c 3
110Muy frágil
-
5a 3
111Mi mejor amigo y yo
-
4a 1
112Gravedad 0
-
4a 1
113Salamandra
-
6a 2
114Héroes de la ciudad
-
6b  
115La Chorrera
-
6b+  
116Histeria
-
7a  
117Puedes o te ayudo
-
6a  
118Variante
-
6a+ 1
 Sector Mini Noroeste 
120Tentetieso
-
5c  
121Desorientativo "Sies a mas"
-
6b+  
122Falangitis
-
7a  
123Aprietas que te petas
-
7a+  
124Hermano inhumano
-
6a  
125A vista de pajaro
-
6a+  
126No name *7a 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer fatbuoybazza