UKC

Climbs 119
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 664m a.s.l
Faces SE

Soloing Johnny, Marin © Chris the Tall

Crag features

To the northwest of the double-town of Elda/Petrer is a prominent cream-coloured dome of rock where a slabby crag sits on the crest of the hill. Developed in the 1960's then rebolted in 1992, this is not a cliff for the hard-core but climbers who operate up to 6a and 6b should find a visit here very rewarding. 

The central section of the cliff is home to 20 pleasant low-grade climbs, up to 60m high, very well bolted, generally slabby and with some multi-pitch options. Many of the climbs have their names and approximate grades painted at their foot in large ugly writing. Five minutes walk further west is an excellent steeper crag which has a great set of slightly harder routes. There are also a few other routes dotted around on several smaller sectors that have good climbing and will usually be quieter.

The crag is southeast-facing and rapid-drying, though high enough to be exposed to the wind.

Approach notes

Take the A31 Madrid road northwest from Alicante for 32km to Elda/Petrer, pass the castle and then continue past the right turn at the sign 'Centro Commercial' (used on the approach to Penyal del Corb and Foradà). 800m after a petrol station, take the slip-road off to the right signed 'Elda' and 'Hospital' then loop back over the motorway and head back towards Elda. Go around a long right-hand bend to a roundabout (keep with the signs to Sax) and, after 1km, turn right at T-junction (signed 'Sax') and drive over a col. The road descends under power-lines, on a long right-hand bend; turn left immediately left of gates set under an orange tiled-roof ('La Curva') and follow the track for 1.3km. Turn left through some grey concrete gate posts with old rusty iron gates and park on the right after 1km at a large car park with information board on top of the hill. A track starts opposite the northern end of the car park and heads steeply to a col overlooking Elda, between the two main buttresses. The rocks are reached in less then ten minutes.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)

Out of print:
There are 4 new short easy (Fr 3/4?) bolted lines right of Capicua (sector Clasico). Climbed them with our kids late Dec 17.
ChrisJD - 07/Jan/18
Parking for a few cars at first corner is still available, from here walk up path as described in rockfax which will bring you past Sector Senda and onwards to the main face. More parking is available further up the road where a path will lead you through to the area described as far left in Rockfax, alternatively there are three newer sectors on the same side as viewed from the parking area which give some welcome morning shade.
fatbuoybazza - 11/Apr/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Placas Pinchosas
2 Érase una vez 6a 60
3 5 minutos 5c * 85
4 Tormento vertical 6b+ 35
5 Por aquí menos 5a * 82
6 Por aquí cualquiera 4c * 132
7 Via Venneto 5a * 63
8 Hurly Burly 5a * 73
9 El sexo sentido 5c * 76
10 Out of control 4a * 131
  Cueva de Marín
12 Aventuras en pañales 3c * 128
13 Novatos con gato 5c * 116
14 Pisando chapas 6a+ * 31
15 Si te dicen que cai 6b * 45
16 Descoco Tensión 6b *** 155
17 El Mono mecánica 6c ** 42
18 El Vuelo del Murciélago 6a ** 116
19 El Vuelo extension 6c+ 23
20 No name 7a 2
21 Techitos Free 6b+ * 30
22 Un lugar llamado libertad 7b+ *  
23 Alegato final 7b+ * 2
24 El vuelo del abuelo 6b ** 55
25 El dia de la bestia Project 4
26 El reino del vacio 6c * 10
27 El mascazo 6b 20
28 Mi ultima palabra 6b+ 10
29 Piluca que te desnucas 6a+ * 29
30 Paranoik 6a ** 153
31 Decoracion inminente 6b * 7
32 Hueco Roja 6b * 14
33 Un dia sin Alain 6a+ * 39
34 D.2 Mágicos 6b ** 54
35 Miedo me Da 6b * 40
36 Climb to the right of Miedo me Da 5c 8
37 Arana 7a 6
38 Los Churrukatas 4c 4
39 El Nino 4a 6
40 La Nina 3a 4
  Sector Intermedio
42 La Gata novata 6c * 6
43 Super Jose 5c * 21
Climb name Grade
44 Fierecilla 6a+ 14
45 Supercosme 6a 16
46 No me jodas el grado, Nano 5c 23
47 La Marrana 5a 28
48 Wini Wini 5c * 29
49 No me toques el Chouchou 6a * 18
50 Ester Sabadell
-
6a+ ** 7
51 El Mojino 5c * 12
52 Huevecillos colgandillos 6a+ * 13
53 Machito Machoman 6a * 19
54 Conginipollas 6b 14
55 Esto es lo que quieres esto es lo que tiennes 6c 4
56 Super Freire 5c ** 26
57 Super Angel 5c * 3
58 La mala Vida 5c * 1
  Sector Clásico
60 Aniversario 5c *** 35
61 Jhony 4a *** 422
62 Cuatro latas 5c * 47
63 Anibal 6a 42
64 Con dos pelotas 6b+ * 2
65 Fuerza bruta 6c 12
66 El Nombre de los malditos de Satán 6b+ 5
67 Petreles 5a *** 162
68 Mermelada del futuro 6a 42
69 Placa gris 5c *** 142
70 Prats 4c *** 311
71 Súbete con la cuchara 6b * 24
72 Kiki 5c ** 66
73 Carmela 4a 26
74 Maika 4c ** 133
75 Paquita trueno 5a * 41
76 Dalia 5a ** 50
77 Agust 4c ** 163
78 Jake mate 5c *** 118
79 Puente aereo 5a ** 82
80 Manolito 5a ** 50
81 Capicua 4c ** 92
82 Sin nombre 6a+ * 1
  Sector Senda
84 Matarile 6b 7
85 Chicho 5a * 26
86 Lemonchelo 5c * 22
Climb name Grade
87 Todo es empezar 5a 13
88 El dia que me case 6a 21
89 Tres amigos y una cuerda 6a+ * 11
90 Prueba y te gustara 6a+ * 11
91 Sacjustu 6a * 14
92 Quinto 5c 8
93 Salma 5a * 17
94 Paleta 5a * 9
95 Picoleta 5c 7
96 Villa latas 6b  
97 Rijapi 6a+ 2
98 Via vendeta 6a 2
  Sector Juegos de verano
100 Elemento V
-
6a  
101 El 80%
-
6b  
102 E. concentrado
-
6b+  
103 Mondo diagonal
-
6b+  
104 Un día con Alain
-
7b  
105 Tu que opinas
-
6b+  
106 Fifo
-
6a+  
107 Fofo
-
6b  
108 Tres pelos
-
6b  
109 Súper cazos
-
6b+  
  Sector Espolon Noroeste
111 En Singular
-
5c 3
112 Muy frágil
-
5a 3
113 Mi mejor amigo y yo
-
4a 1
114 Gravedad 0
-
4a 1
115 Salamandra
-
6a 2
116 Héroes de la ciudad
-
6b  
117 La Chorrera
-
6b+  
118 Histeria
-
7a  
119 Puedes o te ayudo
-
6a  
120 Variante
-
6a+ 1
  Sector Mini Noroeste
122 Tentetieso
-
5c  
123 Desorientativo "Sies a mas"
-
6b+  
124 Falangitis
-
7a  
125 Aprietas que te petas
-
7a+  
126 Hermano inhumano
-
6a  
127 A vista de pajaro
-
6a+  

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