Climbs 124
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 664m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Soloing Johnny, Marin © Chris the Tall

Crag features

To the northwest of the double-town of Elda/Petrer is a prominent cream-coloured dome of rock where a slabby crag sits on the crest of the hill. Developed in the 1960's then rebolted in 1992, this is not a cliff for the hard-core but climbers who operate up to 6a and 6b should find a visit here very rewarding. 

The central section of the cliff is home to 20 pleasant low-grade climbs, up to 60m high, very well bolted, generally slabby and with some multi-pitch options. Many of the climbs have their names and approximate grades painted at their foot in large ugly writing. Five minutes walk further west is an excellent steeper crag which has a great set of slightly harder routes. There are also a few other routes dotted around on several smaller sectors that have good climbing and will usually be quieter.

The crag is southeast-facing and rapid-drying, though high enough to be exposed to the wind.

Approach notes

Take the A31 Madrid road northwest from Alicante for 32km to Elda/Petrer, pass the castle and then continue past the right turn at the sign 'Centro Commercial' (used on the approach to Penyal del Corb and Foradà). 800m after a petrol station, take the slip-road off to the right signed 'Elda' and 'Hospital' then loop back over the motorway and head back towards Elda. Go around a long right-hand bend to a roundabout (keep with the signs to Sax) and, after 1km, turn right at T-junction (signed 'Sax') and drive over a col. The road descends under power-lines, on a long right-hand bend; turn left immediately left of gates set under an orange tiled-roof ('La Curva') and follow the track for 1.3km. Turn left through some grey concrete gate posts with old rusty iron gates and park on the right after 1km at a large car park with information board on top of the hill. A track starts opposite the northern end of the car park and heads steeply to a col overlooking Elda, between the two main buttresses. The rocks are reached in less then ten minutes.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)

Out of print:
There are 4 new short easy (Fr 3/4?) bolted lines right of Capicua (sector Clasico). Climbed them with our kids late Dec 17.
ChrisJD - 07/Jan/18
Parking for a few cars at first corner is still available, from here walk up path as described in rockfax which will bring you past Sector Senda and onwards to the main face. More parking is available further up the road where a path will lead you through to the area described as far left in Rockfax, alternatively there are three newer sectors on the same side as viewed from the parking area which give some welcome morning shade.
fatbuoybazza - 11/Apr/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Placas Pinchosas
2 Érase una vez 6a 66
3 5 minutos 5c * 91
4 Tormento vertical 6b+ 37
5 Por aquí menos 5a * 87
6 Por aquí cualquiera 4c * 140
7 Via Venneto 5a * 64
8 Hurly Burly 5a * 78
9 El sexo sentido 5c * 83
10 Out of control 4a * 140
  Cueva de Marín
12 Aventuras en pañales 3c * 138
13 Novatos con gato 5c * 122
14 Pisando chapas 6a+ * 33
15 Si te dicen que cai 6b * 47
16 Descoco Tensión 6b *** 172
17 El Mono mecánica 6c ** 44
18 El Vuelo del Murciélago 6a ** 136
19 El Vuelo extension 6c+ 23
20 No name 7a 3
21 Techitos Free 6b+ * 32
22 Un lugar llamado libertad 7b+ *  
23 Alegato final 7b+ * 2
24 El vuelo del abuelo 6b ** 66
25 El dia de la bestia Project 7
26 El reino del vacio 6c * 16
27 El mascazo 6b 20
28 Mi ultima palabra 6b+ 10
29 Piluca que te desnucas 6a+ * 29
30 Paranoik 6a ** 171
31 Decoracion inminente 6b * 12
32 Hueco Roja 6b * 18
33 Un dia sin Alain 6a+ * 42
34 D.2 Mágicos 6b ** 59
35 Miedo me Da 6b * 44
36 Climb to the right of Miedo me Da 5c 8
37 Arana 7a 6
38 Los Churrukatas 4c 5
39 El Nino 4a 7
40 La Nina 3a 5
41 No me toques el pirolito 6b ** 2
  Sector Intermedio
43 La Gata novata 6c * 6
44 Super Jose 5c * 26
Climb name Grade
45 Fierecilla 6a+ 14
46 Supercosme 6a 18
47 No me jodas el grado, Nano 5c 27
48 La Marrana 5a 32
49 Wini Wini 5c * 34
50 No me toques el Chouchou 6a * 21
51 Ester Sabadell
-
6a+ ** 7
52 El Mojino 5c * 19
53 Huevecillos colgandillos 6a+ * 15
54 Machito Machoman 6a * 23
55 Conginipollas 6b 18
56 Esto es lo que quieres esto es lo que tiennes 6c 4
57 Super Freire 5c ** 32
58 Super Angel 5c * 3
59 La mala Vida 5c * 1
  Sector Clásico
61 Aniversario 5c *** 42
62 Jhony 4a *** 477
63 Cuatro latas 5c * 47
64 Anibal 6a 43
65 Con dos pelotas 6b+ * 4
66 Fuerza bruta 6c 12
67 El Nombre de los malditos de Satán 6b+ 5
68 Petreles 5a *** 176
69 Mermelada del futuro 6a 47
70 Placa gris 5c *** 164
71 Prats 4c *** 349
72 Súbete con la cuchara 6b * 29
73 Kiki 5c ** 70
74 Carmela 4a 32
75 Maika 4c ** 150
76 Paquita trueno 5a * 43
77 Dalia 5a ** 54
78 Agust 4c ** 173
79 Jake mate 5c *** 124
80 Puente aereo 5a ** 91
81 Manolito 5a ** 53
82 Capicua 4c ** 96
83 Unknown 3 4a 2
84 Sin nombre 6a+ * 1
85 Unknown 4a 2
86 Unknown 1 4a 2
87 Unknown 2 4a 2
Climb name Grade
  Sector Senda
89 Matarile 6b 9
90 Chicho 5a * 33
91 Lemonchelo 5c * 28
92 Todo es empezar 5a 17
93 El dia que me case 6a 22
94 Tres amigos y una cuerda 6a+ * 11
95 Prueba y te gustara 6a+ * 12
96 Sacjustu 6a * 14
97 Quinto 5c 8
98 Salma 5a * 17
99 Paleta 5a * 9
100 Picoleta 5c 7
101 Villa latas 6b  
102 Rijapi 6a+ 2
103 Via vendeta 6a 2
  Sector Juegos de verano
105 Elemento V
-
6a  
106 El 80%
-
6b  
107 E. concentrado
-
6b+  
108 Mondo diagonal
-
6b+  
109 Un día con Alain
-
7b  
110 Tu que opinas
-
6b+  
111 Fifo
-
6a+  
112 Fofo
-
6b  
113 Tres pelos
-
6b  
114 Súper cazos
-
6b+  
  Sector Espolon Noroeste
116 En Singular
-
5c 3
117 Muy frágil
-
5a 3
118 Mi mejor amigo y yo
-
4a 1
119 Gravedad 0
-
4a 1
120 Salamandra
-
6a 2
121 Héroes de la ciudad
-
6b  
122 La Chorrera
-
6b+  
123 Histeria
-
7a  
124 Puedes o te ayudo
-
6a  
125 Variante
-
6a+ 1
  Sector Mini Noroeste
127 Tentetieso
-
5c  
128 Desorientativo "Sies a mas"
-
6b+  
129 Falangitis
-
7a  
130 Aprietas que te petas
-
7a+  
131 Hermano inhumano
-
6a  
132 A vista de pajaro
-
6a+  

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