Climbs 64
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 679m a.s.l
Faces E

Silhouetted at Sax © Wangy

Crag features

WARNING: Rockfax has the first pitch lengths completely wrong. If doing just the first pitch then the stuff marked as '20m' actually needs a 70m rope to be safe; the stuff marked '30m' needs an 80m rope (or a 70m with a couple of meters downclimb).

West of the ancient town of Sax is a series of limestone towers overlooking the wide valley of the Vinalopo. The crags here have been known as Sax and Cabreras over the years and to confuse things even further it is also occasionally referred to by the name of the central showpiece tower known as Peñas del Rey. 

Most of the climbing is slabby, with the occasional bulging bit, and the grades range from quality fours and fives to technical sixes and a couple of top-notch sevens. Many of the pitches are long and there are some excellent two-pitch climbs here. Sax has been climbed on for many years, and consequently some of the routes are now polished. 

Away to the south west is Sector Cumbre which has long wall pitches mainly in the 6a to 6b+ range. Sadly this crag is bird-banned from December to June, has a long and steep approach walk and has never been popular. It is not covered in this book. 

The main areas face east which making it a good morning crag in winter and a good afternoon crag in summer. The exposed position on the hillside means that it catches the wind although it is usually possible to still find some shelter on the Peñas del Rey.

Approach notes

Drive from Alicante towards Madrid on the A31 and take the second turn off to Sax (junction 44). Drive towards the town, cross the river then turn right and follow the road as it loops round the town passing below the castle walls. Follow signs for 'La Plano' as they head out of town for 1.1km then fork left - still on tarmac. After around 1.5km cross the high-speed rail-link. Turn sharp left onto a track after crossing the railway. Follow this next to the railway for 200m, then turn left towards the Penas del Rey, which is now clearly visible on the hillside. Turn right (sandy) to reach a parking spot directly below the crag.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)

Out of print:
The heights shown for the belays are a few metres higher than shown. Please be aware and take at least a 70m rope if you want to lower off from first belays.
Andy Chambers - 24/May/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sector Cumbre
2 Moreno machacón 7b+  
3 Rompe bragas 6a+  
4 Polla asesina 6c  
5 Homicidio frustrado 6c+ *  
6 Asesinato premeditado 6b+ * 1
7 Ingreso cadáver 6b+ * 1
8 Pincha pansida 6a * 1
9 Gorilero 6a *  
10 Tauro 6a *  
11 Tubular Bells 6b+ **  
12 Zombis 6b * 1
13 Fiesta salvaje 6b+ **  
14 Busque y compare 6a+ **  
15 De película 6b+ **  
16 Toreros muertos 6b+ *  
17 Demonio con faldas 7a *  
18 Lucecitas de colores 6a+ **  
19 Jabato con pie de gato 6a+ *  
20 Gringo 6a+ * 1
21 Civera 5c ** 3
22 Sensaciones azuladas 6a+ * 1
  Peñas del Rey
24 Alnara 6a+ * 12
25 Doce metros por hora 6b * 9
26 Blanes 4c *** 91
27 La última pupilla 6c ** 2
28 Caballo Loco 6c ** 6
29 Taberna de Buda 6a+ ** 1
30 Anduriña 6a ** 19
31 Kabronkon 6b ** 25
32 Pedra del Sol 6b ** 2
33 Liga Humana 6a+ ** 13
34 Tupungato 5c *** 80
35 Muerte Sabrosa 6b ** 5
36 Amor Brujo 6a+ *** 22
37 Super Directa 6a *** 43
38 Directísima 6a ** 19
39 La Moixeranga 6b ** 3
40 Central 5c ** 24
41 Límites Realidad 6a ** 4
42 Diedro Dinamita 6a *  
43 Polvos Mágicos 6a *** 5
44 Hollywood 6b *  
45 Navarro 1 6a *  
46 Navarro 1 Variante 6b *  
47 Chimenea Groen 70 5c * 1
48 Quirofano de la muerte 7a+ *** 1
49 Elena de Pablos 7a+ *** 8
50 Chinche 6b ** 6
51 Espolón Luis Rico 6a * 3
52 Glóbulos rojos 6c  
53 Retri 6b  
54 QE2 6a 1
55 Techo 7b  
56 Con cuarto basta 6a+ 1
57 Carrasco 5a ** 26
58 Andrés 5c * 4
59 Elisa-Beltrán 4a ** 23
  Pinnacle and North
61 Sombra del pájaro 6a+  
62 Carrozas Climb 7b  
63 Aspirante carroza 6a * 1
64 Marco Antonio 5a 2
65 Moreno 6a+  
66 Super miembro 6c+  

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