Climbs 63
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 972m a.s.l
Faces S

Kim on Ulimatun at Sierra Magadalena, a fine route to make you giggle. © kimrickwood

Crag features

This is not a major venue, and a bit 'in the middle of nowhere', hence it doesn’t see much in the way of visitors. It has a varied selection of sixty or so routes, all in a rather scruffy and very arid setting. It is not worth a visit from afar, but, if you are in the area, it is worth considering for a couple of hour’s sport. The Pared Negra is the best bit of rock here and the only one we describe. It has a pleasant collection of well-bolted low-grade slab climbs in a sunny setting, worth a day if you climb at 5/5+ and want to tick plenty of routes without too much effort. Generally speaking, the grades here are all rather tough. The fixed gear is excellent on all the decent routes.

The cliff described here faces south. It dries rapidly after rain, and the whole valley is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach notes

Yecla is about 60km north west of Alicante, and is usually approached from Villena on the A31 Madrid road. Just before Yecla, bear left onto the ring road (N334) and follow this for 8km until the road from the centre of town comes in from the right. Just under 1km from here, and opposite a wired enclosure on the left, is a nondescript dirt track branching off to the right. Follow this to a right fork by a sunken water tank. Continue along this, bearing left at a ruined house, then right at a T-junction just beyond a new house. Continue along the road through a low point in the ridge as it swings up and right to an open parking area - the last section is steep and rough. This is 4km from the road.

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Guidebooks

I thought the crag environment was pleasant. Not scruffy as stated in Rockfax miniguide
harold walmsley - 27/Nov/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Pared Del Charco
2 Golondrinas en escabeche 6a 1
3 Muerta a las golondrinas 6a  
4 Toda tulla 7a+ 1
5 La frontera 6c  
6 Crocket man 6c  
7 Pepa España 6a+ *  
8 T'Aspero en California 6b+  
9 Surfin' 7a  
10 Mas se perdido en Cuba 6a+ *  
11 Puta navidad 6a+  
12 Notecorras en mi Polla 6b  
13 Cruisin' 6b+  
14 El vipolador de chotas 7b  
  Los Vagos
16 Metehe goles 6a  
17 Samba pa ti 6b+  
18 Gozas negro 6a  
  Pared Roja
20 Puec 6a  
21 Mollunga gongorino 6c  
22 Masturbaciones sensaciones 7c  
23 Reine matadora 6c+ *  
24 Corleone 7b *  
25 Volver a empezar 6a+ * 2
26 Seta negra 6c *  
27 Es doz 6a 1
28 Soy un borracho 6b+  
29 China blue 6c+  
30 Blue bayou 6a+  
  Pared Negra
32 A pan y agua 5c * 13
33 Ulimatun 6a * 12
34 Primera 6a ** 4
35 Ale
-
4a * 2
36 Mode
-
4a * 1
37 Calienta motores 5a * 18
38 Al loro con el cazarlo 5c 9
39 Treinta cinco 5c * 4
40 Square Root of 36 5c 5
41 Ciento veinte dos 4c * 14
42 Juvito poco 5a ** 21
43 Ethiopyan boys 5a * 18
44 Papa mateo 5c * 15
45 Caperutica roja 5a ** 20
46 Rambla matxaka 8b 5a * 8
47 Farlopa pa la Tropa 5a  
48 La Guia puta esta 5a  
49 Nos Vamos 5a 2
50 Veo La Virgin 5c  
51 Guillermo el Traversio 5c  
52 Casiopea 5c  
53 Ramblizo 5c 2
54 Mesalina 5a 2
55 Caligula 6b 4
  Pared de Salto
57 Hola mamoncito 7a+ **  
58 Curras menos que el ángel 7c  
59 Yanqui bueno Yanqui muerto 7b  
60 No me toques 7b+ *  
61 El sueno de las tortugas 6a+ *  
62 De hay parriva prurrr 6a+ *  
63 Joshua Tree 7b+ *  
64 091 7a  
65 Gula de fin de ano 6b+  
66 Sacrílego navideño 6a+  
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