Climbs 24
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 629m a.s.l
Faces W

Crag features

A short distance north of the centre of Petrer/Elda is 'the tower of the raven', set high above the valley, with a difficult-to-spot black metal cross on its summit. This west-facing cliff is home to twenty worthwhile climbs, several of which are in the lower grades. The routes are up to 30m in length, often of two pitches, and are well bolted. The rock is generally less than vertical and many of the routes finish on a true summit. The place is well worth a day if you are in the area and climb at the appropriate grade. The cliff is also known as Espolón de la Sierra del Caballo. The climbing here was first developed in the early 1960s.

The cliff faces west, so gets the afternoon and evening sun. It is quite exposed, but dries rapidly after rain due to its free-standing nature.

Approach notes

Take the A31 Madrid road northwest from Alicante for 32km to Elda/Petrer, pass the castle and turn right at the sign 'Centro Commercial'. On the slip road, turn right (signed 'Xorret de Cati') then immediately left (not to 'Xorret de Cati'). At the next cross roads, head roughly straight on (left of the recycling centre) and continue for around 3.5km, keeping right at a fork in the road, gradually rising for another 0.5km until the Tarmac ends. 0.2km further on is parking on the right by a solitary tree. The path starts here and zig-zags up the grassy rib (two to the right of the prominent cliff) until it contours away to the left to arrive at the right edge of the cliff.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)

Out of print:
On the approach walk and just before crossing the barranco to the crag, is another smaller crag just above the path. There is a good path leading to it. We climbed 3 pleasant routes on excellent rock. Grades are marked on the rock and climbs are no more than about 15m
Mark Eddy - 23/Jan/17
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Southwest Face
2 Larga 4a * 7
3 Espolón oeste norte oeste 5a * 28
4 No se sabe 6a ** 20
5 Pedro ayuste 6a+ ** 13
6 Espolón Vinalopo 7a+  
7 Penélope 6a ** 21
8 Marina 6a+ * 9
9 Daniel Esteve 6c+ ** 4
10 9 d'Octubre 6b ** 8
11 Vida Local 6a+ *  
12 Isabel 6a ** 16
13 Directa Franciso Moya 6c *  
14 Pascual Navarra 6a+ ** 18
  North Face
16 Triento y uno 3 1
17 Diedro del mechero 5a  
18 Corta 4c  
19 Fuerza futura 6b+  
20 Pipona 6b *  
21 Ma-ma 6c  
22 Estilo libre 6b  
23 Greta 472 6a *  
24 Senda paras tus dedos 6a+ *  

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