Altitude 629m a.s.l
A short distance north of the centre of Petrer/Elda is 'the tower of the raven', set high above the valley, with a difficult-to-spot black metal cross on its summit. This west-facing cliff is home to twenty worthwhile climbs, several of which are in the lower grades. The routes are up to 30m in length, often of two pitches, and are well bolted. The rock is generally less than vertical and many of the routes finish on a true summit. The place is well worth a day if you are in the area and climb at the appropriate grade. The cliff is also known as Espolón de la Sierra del Caballo. The climbing here was first developed in the early 1960s.
The cliff faces west, so gets the afternoon and evening sun. It is quite exposed, but dries rapidly after rain due to its free-standing nature.
Take the A31 Madrid road northwest from Alicante for 32km to Elda/Petrer, pass the castle and turn right at the sign 'Centro Commercial'. On the slip road, turn right (signed 'Xorret de Cati') then immediately left (not to 'Xorret de Cati'). At the next cross roads, head roughly straight on (left of the recycling centre) and continue for around 3.5km, keeping right at a fork in the road, gradually rising for another 0.5km until the Tarmac ends. 0.2km further on is parking on the right by a solitary tree. The path starts here and zig-zags up the grassy rib (two to the right of the prominent cliff) until it contours away to the left to arrive at the right edge of the cliff.
|On the approach walk and just before crossing the barranco to the crag, is another smaller crag just above the path. There is a good path leading to it.
We climbed 3 pleasant routes on excellent rock. Grades are marked on the rock and climbs are no more than about 15m|
Mark Eddy - 23/Jan/17