Climbs 90
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

What now..? © Catherine Speakman

Crag features

Peña Rubia has been quite popular in the past and it does have some good climbing though a reputation for harsh grades and polished routes hasn't done the place any favours. Its main claim to fame is the nearby Boreal factory and the fact that many famous climbers have tested their sponsored boots on these walls. There is a full grade range from 4s to 8s. Most of the harder routes only have short technical sections on steep bulges often using chipped pockets. The easier routes are some of the more interesting offerings here. The whole crag is fully equipped. Some of the routes have two pitches but in most cases you can run them together with a 60m rope.

The crag faces northwest which means that it only gets the afternoon sun. It is relatively sheltered from the wind and makes a good morning venue in hot weather. Like most of the cliffs hereabouts it is far too hot in the summer months. Its accessibility means this is a reasonable airport-day crag providing you can leave a sunbathing team to look after the car and the luggage.

Approach notes

Take the A31 Madrid road northwest from Alicante. Turn off at the junction signed to 'Villena' and 'Biar'. Almost immediately turn right off the slip road (unsigned). Follow this for 4.8km to an impressive entrance archway and tack up to the top left-hand corner of the road system. A short sandy track leads up to the crag. Don't leave any valuables in your car.

Sector Competición - From the slip road turning, continue for 2.9km to a right turn down a smaller road. Take this for 1.7km to a crossroads. A left turn here runs towards the crag, turning to dirt after 900m. Continue for a further 360m (steeper now) to parking on the right in a large flat area. 

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sector Gandalf
2 No sabe no contesta 5a 1
3 El espejo de Galadriel 7b+ *  
4 Bichos verdes 6b *  
5 Sauron 7a+ * 1
6 Condón Simón 6a+ * 2
7 Hells Bells 6c * 1
8 Samsagaz 6b+ **  
9 Me de la mismo 4c * 3
10 Smaug el dorado 6b+ * 2
11 Gandalf el gris 6a+ *  
12 Voltage 6a+ *  
13 Seamos peligrosos 6a+  
14 Por si el Sidra 6b+  
15 Póntelo Pónselo 6a  
16 Cinco contra el calvo 6a  
17 El chico del loro 5c  
18 Piñerus 7a+  
19 ¿Paraqué? 6b  
20 Pilarín 5c * 10
21 El vuelo del Mono 5c *** 9
22 Kazajihstan 6b  
  Sector Chimet
24 Tampones lejanos 6a+ * 7
25 Brazilia 6a+ * 1
26 Chimet 5a ** 16
27 El ultimo Yeclano 5a ** 23
28 Caru 5a ** 9
29 Moco de pavo 6b+  
30 Sharon Pistones 7a 4
31 Geniete 6a+ ** 1
32 Medio Metro 6a * 12
33 Pari-Dakar 7b+ * 2
34 Txavo tu vales mucho 8a  
35 Kortatu 6c+ ** 1
36 Los 4 chinetes 6b+ *** 1
37 Vacilando con lobos 6a+ ** 12
38 Te cuelgan 6b+ * 1
39 Verás que fuerte 5c ** 8
40 Inomminata 6a+ ** 6
41 La muerte de la higuera 6b+ * 4
  Sector Claveles
43 Claveles 6b *** 15
44 Te tiemblan 7a+ * 3
45 Viviendo en una súplica 6a ** 7
46 Anda tié huevos 7b  
47 Cocodrilo Din Don 7b+  
48 La Ira del Tiempo 7a *  
49 El amperio contraataca 7a+ ** 1
50 Hambre de gamba 8a  
51 Txavito clavó 7c  
52 Rompe Pelotas 7a+  
53 Wary Wary Yeah 7a+  
54 En la espera te esquino 6a+ 1
  Sector Pocker de Basi
56 María A 5c * 10
57 Vamos Joaquín 6b+  
58 Placa Solar 5c * 4
59 Huesitos Krac 6b+ 2
60 Aquaforce 7c 1
61 La ventosa 8a+ *  
62 A Bassi le faltó Project  
63 Lluvia de rañas Project  
64 Pocker de Bassi 8a  
65 Hombres de Paja 7b * 1
66 Men of Steel 6c * 3
67 Estalactus Topus 7a  
68 Mantequila de Nápoles 6c+ 2
  Sector Competición
70 Bamboluna 6a+ *  
71 Brigada lechuga 6c *  
72 Clavo putero 6b+  
73 Famoso Pepe de Biar 6b+ *  
74 Calvo rebotón 7a  
75 Nido de cuervos 7b ***  
76 Pilas duracel 7a **  
77 Variante emocionante 7b+ *  
78 Tensión continua 8a **  
79 Competicíon Ten Project  
80 Porrazo 7c+ **  
81 Porrazo Upper Project  
82 Tremendo personaje 7a ***  
83 Entradica 8a ***  
84 Entrada Project  
85 Competicíon Sixteen 7b+ **  
86 Competicíon Seventeen Project  
87 Theoria del caos 6b+ *  
88 Competicíon Nineteen Project  
89 Pica piquero 7a+ **  
90 El vuelo del gavilán 7c *  
91 Pumuky 7b  
92 Competicíon Twenty Two Project *  
93 Trio Calavera 7b *  
94 Joputa 8a **  
95 En falles no folles 6a *  

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