Climbs 90
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

What now..? © Catherine Speakman

Crag features

Peña Rubia has been quite popular in the past and it does have some good climbing though a reputation for harsh grades and polished routes hasn't done the place any favours. Its main claim to fame is the nearby Boreal factory and the fact that many famous climbers have tested their sponsored boots on these walls. There is a full grade range from 4s to 8s. Most of the harder routes only have short technical sections on steep bulges often using chipped pockets. The easier routes are some of the more interesting offerings here. The whole crag is fully equipped. Some of the routes have two pitches but in most cases you can run them together with a 60m rope.

The crag faces northwest which means that it only gets the afternoon sun. It is relatively sheltered from the wind and makes a good morning venue in hot weather. Like most of the cliffs hereabouts it is far too hot in the summer months. Its accessibility means this is a reasonable airport-day crag providing you can leave a sunbathing team to look after the car and the luggage.

Approach notes

Take the A31 Madrid road northwest from Alicante. Turn off at the junction signed to 'Villena' and 'Biar'. Almost immediately turn right off the slip road (unsigned). Follow this for 4.8km to an impressive entrance archway and tack up to the top left-hand corner of the road system. A short sandy track leads up to the crag. Don't leave any valuables in your car.

Sector Competición - From the slip road turning, continue for 2.9km to a right turn down a smaller road. Take this for 1.7km to a crossroads. A left turn here runs towards the crag, turning to dirt after 900m. Continue for a further 360m (steeper now) to parking on the right in a large flat area. 

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Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sector Gandalf 
2No sabe no contesta5a 1
3El espejo de Galadriel7b+ * 
4Bichos verdes6b * 
5Sauron7a+ *1
6Condón Simón6a+ *2
7Hells Bells6c *1
8Samsagaz6b+ ** 
9Me de la mismo4c *3
10Smaug el dorado6b+ *2
11Gandalf el gris6a+ * 
12Voltage6a+ * 
13Seamos peligrosos6a+  
14Por si el Sidra6b+  
15Póntelo Pónselo6a  
16Cinco contra el calvo6a  
17El chico del loro5c  
20Pilarín5c *10
21El vuelo del Mono5c ***9
 Sector Chimet 
24Tampones lejanos6a+ *7
25Brazilia6a+ *1
26Chimet5a **15
27El ultimo Yeclano5a **22
28Caru5a **9
29Moco de pavo6b+  
30Sharon Pistones7a 4
31Geniete6a+ **1
32Medio Metro6a *11
33Pari-Dakar7b+ *2
34Txavo tu vales mucho8a  
35Kortatu6c+ **1
36Los 4 chinetes6b+ ***1
37Vacilando con lobos6a+ **11
38Te cuelgan6b+ *1
39Verás que fuerte5c **8
40Inomminata6a+ **6
41La muerte de la higuera6b+ *4
 Sector Claveles 
43Claveles6b ***15
44Te tiemblan7a+ *3
45Viviendo en una súplica6a **7
46Anda tié huevos7b  
47Cocodrilo Din Don7b+  
48La Ira del Tiempo7a * 
49El amperio contraataca7a+ **1
50Hambre de gamba8a  
51Txavito clavó7c  
52Rompe Pelotas7a+  
53Wary Wary Yeah7a+  
54En la espera te esquino6a+ 1
 Sector Pocker de Basi 
56María A5c *10
57Vamos Joaquín6b+  
58Placa Solar5c *4
59Huesitos Krac6b+ 2
60Aquaforce7c 1
61La ventosa8a+ * 
62A Bassi le faltóProject  
63Lluvia de rañasProject  
64Pocker de Bassi8a  
65Hombres de Paja7b *1
66Men of Steel6c *3
67Estalactus Topus7a  
68Mantequila de Nápoles6c+ 2
 Sector Competición 
70Bamboluna6a+ * 
71Brigada lechuga6c * 
72Clavo putero6b+  
73Famoso Pepe de Biar6b+ * 
74Calvo rebotón7a  
75Nido de cuervos7b *** 
76Pilas duracel7a ** 
77Variante emocionante7b+ * 
78Tensión continua8a ** 
79Competicíon TenProject  
80Porrazo7c+ ** 
81Porrazo UpperProject  
82Tremendo personaje7a *** 
83Entradica8a *** 
85Competicíon Sixteen7b+ ** 
86Competicíon SeventeenProject  
87Theoria del caos6b+ * 
88Competicíon NineteenProject  
89Pica piquero7a+ ** 
90El vuelo del gavilán7c * 
92Competicíon Twenty TwoProject * 
93Trio Calavera7b * 
94Joputa8a ** 
95En falles no folles6a * 

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