Climbs 182
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 955m a.s.l
Faces all

Shauna Coxsey On Sighting Muscleman F7b - 2009 © Gaz Parry

Crag features

A remote and varied crag with some magnificent climbing on either side of a dinosaur-back fin of rock. Pride of place has to be Sector Super Heroes; a steep shady wall of soaring, overhanging walls and pocket-lines and a must for people into steep grade 7s and 8s. The rest of the shady north-facing side is less imposing but still offers some quality challenges in the mid-grades. For easier stuff you need to head round to the slabby southern side; a totally different proposition with routes at a much friendlier angle and in a beautiful sunny setting, with magnificent views. The majority of the climbs are well bolted. A 70m rope is useful for Sectors Super Heroes and Elecciones.

Apart from the soaring overhanging pocket-lines the other major attraction of this crag is its usefulness in extreme weather. Foradà North Face is a great place to head for if it is really hot and it also has plenty to go at in wet weather, but it can be very cold compared to other crags in the area because of the altitude, at almost 1000m. In cold weather clever climbers will head straight for the South Face so that while the hard team are freezing in search of a big tick on the North Face, the less ambitious members of the team can sun themselves just round the corner.

Approach notes

Take the A-31 towards Madrid as far as the junction to 'Petrer, Elda, centro commercial' - large Carrefour supermarket. At this slightly complex junction on the slip road, turn back right following signs for 'Xorret de Cati' - a rather fine hotel up in the mountains. Follow the road and signs for around 10km to an unsigned junction on the right where there is a clear view of the crag over to the south. Turn down here (still surfaced) to a right turn onto an unsurfaced road by a small stone gate post. (This track can be very hard going after rain). Follow the track to a sharp turn left where there is parking for a chapel, hidden in the trees up ahead. Continue to car parking at a col from where the crag is clearly visible. To get to the North Face and Villanos, the easiest way is to take the footpath branching right off the main approach track at the car park (marked by a Xorret del Cati “climbing this way” sign). This can be followed past Sector Villanos to a flat open area where the path splits. To get to the South Face, continue on the main track as it drops down underneath the fin. See buttresses for approach from here.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
It is noted in the guidebook that access down the unpaved track may be "difficult" after heavy rain. I would update this to: "After even relatively small amounts of rain, the unpaved track is likely to be essentially unpassable for anything other than tractors and/or high ground clearance 4x4s." We were there after a couple of days of fairly heavy rain and even the high ground clearance 4x4's had abandoned the attempt on the track and parked 1.5km from the crag and walked the rest.
John_Hat - 09/Mar/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sector Parking
2 Aqui Estoy 6a 5
3 Sin Piedad 6a+ 5
  Sector Villanos
5 Cabrales 6a+ 9
6 Jalapeños 6c+ 12
7 Joker 7a+ * 15
8 Pancho Villa 7a+ 1
9 Doctor No 7a * 8
10 Lutor 6c+ 6
11 Esquelotor 6c+ * 10
12 Phantomas 7a+ 6
13 Barrabás 6c * 3
  Sector Comic
15 El pequeño Franenstein 6c 3
16 Mundo Mutante 6c+ ** 8
17 Pedrusco 6b+ ** 15
18 Litel Pony Manconi 6c+ *  
19 Sara 6c ** 13
20 Torpedo 6b+ * 7
21 El Mercenario 6c+ * 3
22 Legionario 6c * 9
23 Comic 5c * 18
24 La Danza El Cul 5a * 6
25 Sin Chan 5a * 6
26 Patxi Cena Arroz 6b+ * 5
  Sector Pajaritos
28 Nuevo
-
5a * 12
29 Chorlito
-
5c * 17
30 Route 11
-
6a+ 15
31 L'Estaca 6a+  
32 Una Cerveza en el Túnel 6a+ *  
33 Gorrión 6a+ * 44
34 Picacerebros 6a * 14
35 Golondrinas 6a+ * 40
36 Radio Macuto 7a+ *  
37 Cucú 6a+ * 46
38 El alimana 6b+ * 1
39 Periquito 5a 29
  Sector Super Heroes
41 Pajarraco Half 6c * 5
42 Pajarraco 7c ***  
43 Escalibur 8a+ ** 1
44 Tundra 8a+ *** 3
45 Lanzarote o burro grande 8a+ ** 7
46 Batman 7b+ *** 25
47 Muscleman 7b *** 89
48 Satori 8b **  
49 Rock'n Roll Exprés 8a *  
50 Jo-ta-Ke 8b+ ***  
51 Radicales libres 8a+ *** 1
52 Thorpedo 7b ** 3
53 Thor 7b+ *** 35
54 Plasticman 8a+ *  
55 Doctor Bacterio 7c+ *  
56 Bacterio ?  
57 Elios 7a+ *** 61
58 Guerrero del antifaz 7b+ *** 6
59 Enclenque Misantropic 7c **  
60 Helioscentrisimo 7c+ **  
61 Spiderman 7a *** 96
62 Starman 7a *** 143
63 Son Goku 7a * 25
64 Espolon Rumano 7c * 1
65 A King Kong Jalameel Cous Cous 7b ** 1
66 Superlópez 7b+ **  
  Sector Elecciones
68 Baby boom 8b *** 1
69 Bombe bombero 8a+ ** 1
70 Apatrida 7b+ **  
71 Los patos de la Moncloa 7b+ ** 6
72 Cámara Alta 6c+ ** 25
73 Kuka 7b+ *  
74 Ratonovich 6c+ * 7
75 Disturbio vertical 6c *** 72
76 El golfo de la guerra 6b+ * 55
77 El hereje 7c *  
78 La guerra del golfo 6b+ * 20
79 La guerra del golfo Extension ?  
80 Noelix i Obelix 6b+ * 7
81 Abstención 6c * 7
82 La fuerza del parábola 6a * 51
83 Eliconnes Fifteen ? *** 1
84 Pepa Rota 7b+ ** 1
85 Galimatías 6c+ *** 19
86 Pictolin 6a 11
87 Sugus 6a+ 9
  Sector Television
89 Bola de Cristal 7a 4
90 Rollito de Primavera 8a 2
91 La calle de ritmo 6c+ *  
92 Waku-Waku 6c * 2
93 Sesión de tarde 6c * 1
94 Toñaretoña 7b+  
95 Papapatras 7c+ 1
96 El último mohicano 7c 1
97 Quieres que el tigre 7b+ ** 1
98 Bum-Bum 7a+ ** 4
99 Tiger Mountain 7b ** 2
100 Recién venido 6b+ 6
101 El precio justo 7a * 2
102 Carta de adujiste 7a * 1
  Sector Psiquiatrico
104 Carne de psiquatrico 7a * 5
105 Bloqueo mental 7b *  
  Sector Minipimer
107 Termomix 7b *  
108 Picadora Mulinex 7a+ * 1
109 Minipimer 7a+ * 6
  Sector Cuentos Populares
111 Tres cerditos 6c *  
112 Cuentos populares 7a *  
113 Dumbo 7a+  
114 Pinocho 6b+  
115 Juan Sin Miedo 7a  
116 Las botas de 7 leguas 6c+ *  
117 Chiquitín 6b+  
  Sector Mitològic
119 Laguna Estigia 7a * 2
120 Unicornio 6c *  
121 Eolo 6b+ *  
122 Odisea 6c * 2
123 Odisea Direct 6c  
124 Iberia 6b+  
  Sectors Petorri and Descote
126 Petorri 3+ 56
127 Bon día 5a * 78
128 Cursilanía 4a * 97
129 Como Te dé la Gana 4a 75
130 Fama de gos 5c ** 79
131 Pilar 5a ** 124
132 Noche golfa 6a * 43
133 Paula 5c * 52
134 Tiburón 5c * 36
135 Placido Domingo 6a ** 52
136 Jodido Lunes 6a * 35
137 De Los Cuatro 4a * 82
138 De Joan 3 47
139 Caballería 4c * 9
140 Marisol 6a * 34
141 Freire sin aceite 6a+ ** 40
142 Entrepiernas 6b * 34
143 Mujer furtivo 6a+ * 33
144 Las escaletas fuman petas 5c * 28
145 Chimo 6a * 3
146 Chumi 6a 2
147 Cosme 5c * 14
  Sectors Forat and Goteta
149 Fret fa 6b * 5
150 La golondrina 6a+ * 26
151 Mama Ukri 6b ** 43
152 Chorro sin agua 6a ** 47
153 Sube que es gratis 6a+ * 29
154 Hector 7b ** 4
155 Del Forat 5c * 30
156 L'hivernacle 7a ** 3
157 Javier Muñoz 6a+ * 24
158 Cruz del sur 7a * 3
159 La Plutga 5c ** 57
160 Extrema Eskerra 6b * 6
161 L'Embolic 6a+ * 1
162 Trinity 7a+  
163 Mayaya 5c * 13
164 Llei dels Maleans 6a * 44
165 McFly 5c ** 42
166 Panchuflas 5c ** 31
167 Corpus Cristina 5c ** 61
168 Ligero de Equipaje 5c 4

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