Climbs 22
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 206m a.s.l
Faces NW

Crag features

An easily accessible beginners crag located within a wooded strip formerly occuppied by the Oakdale Colliery.

The climbs are generally on the slabby side of vertical, well bolted and equiped with in-situ quick lower off krabs for convenience.

The surrounding trees offer some seclusion from the suburban background and can even keep the climbs dry in showery weather. However, the numerous flat hand ledges collect leaf litter and fine particles washed from the earthy slopes above and a brushing is essential on most climbs after the winter has passed, you have been warned.

Approach notes

The crag lies on the north-west side of the Oakdale residential estate, north of Blackwood Town centre.

Follow the A4048 until you reach the roundabout on the eastern side of the Chartist Bridge (obvious as it has a large statue of a man made out of washers). Head north from this roundabout for 1 km. The industrial estate is on your left and the crag is on the right, opposite the first unit.

There are numerous parking options but on first aquaintance it is advised to use the overflow carpark in the industrial estate opposite, on Old Coal Avenue, and follow one of the indistinct paths through the trees to the crag.

Grid Reference : ST 18458 98837

X : 318458, Y : 198837

Latitude : 51.682348, Longitude : -3.1808342

Nearest Address: Rhiw Syr Dafydd Hill, Oakdale, NP12 0

theres a hand full of nice boulder problems on the larger wall overlooking the road. The left side of the arete being quite hair raising.
liam jay - 16/Apr/13
This place has a couple of cool climbs but the location isnt great (side of the road). The big oak buttress doesnt have stable loweroff, just a sling that i could see wrapped around a tree.
rhys mence - 16/Sep/12
The stream has been diverted, however seepage is bad on about 6 or 7 routes after rain.
alan rosier - 16/May/12
I live not far from this crag and pass it everyday on my way to work. The rock is always wet from the stream running off the fields above. If you plan on going there make sure it hasn’t rained for along time and it advisable take a brush with you.
mitchell1982 - 14/May/12
Re access notes – As you drive up the A4048 towards Blackwood the roundabout with the statue is actually the ‘Chartist bridge’. The ‘Calzaghe bridge’ is in Newbridge which crosses the railway and river Ebbw. If anyone was wondering, the statue of the man with pike in hand is in honour of the chartist movement and their struggle. The thousands of interlinked brass rings represent strength in unity.
James_86 - 16/Apr/12
darn was hopeing to pop up and have a look to c what its like haha
rhys.noddy - 13/Aug/11
Yeah, it's no-where near pontywaun. It's a secret (for now).
alan rosier - 08/Aug/11
hello is thier any more info on where this might be? because i beleve that the location is practicaly in some1s back garden and it says its very approximate but thats the only details
rhys.noddy - 05/Aug/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Big Oak Buttress
2 Finn's Projectile Fart 6a+ 4
3 47 Souls 6b+ * 5
4 Double Denim 6a 3
5 Gent of Gwent S 4b 4
  Left Bay
7 Danny Boy 6a * 4
8 Pulvisophobia 6a 2
9 Peniculusophobia 5a 4
Climb name Grade
10 Bryophytephobia 5c 7
11 Open Project 2a  
12 Miss Sexy 5c 4
  Right Bay
14 Project 1 2a  
15 Mr Bimbles 5c 5
16 My Real Dad 6b 2
17 Open Project 2 2a  
18 Open Project 3 2a  
Climb name Grade
19 Super-fly 5a 9
20 Wood Louse 5c * 10
21 London's Burning 5a 3
22 Belly Button Kelp 6a 2
23 Project 2 2a  
24 Fame (I'm gonna live for-evva!) 6b+ * 6
25 Bird is the Word 6b * 6

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