Climbs 38
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 654m a.s.l
Faces SW

Not the most picturesque of crags © Tyler

Crag features

Alcoi Uxola is not the most popular crag, it's not that the climbing is bad - though it is hard - it more that the place is poorly situated above a busy town and is really awkward to get to from the coast. In spite of these drawbacks, a worthwhile day's climbing can be had here since the actual routes are quite good, especially in the harder grades. They are well equipped with new bolts and lower-offs. The grades tend to be a notch harder than elsewhere and it is probably only of real interest to people who lead 7a and above, although the slab at the top of the crag has some easier offerings and the classic of Mosca is worth calling in for.

The crag faces south and is sheltered making it a real sun-trap. Due to its angle, it will stay dry in light rain but will get wet pretty quickly in heavier stuff.

Approach notes

Alcoi is approximately 50km north of Alicante, in the middle of the mountains. Leave the AP-7 at junction 50 and head into the town. Follow this next bit carefully because if you get lost, then you will find yourself in a maze of one-way streets. Take the N340 into the town and turn left over a bridge at a T-junction. Follow this road as it curves round over another bridge then turn left at some lights before a tall church. Drive straight up here ('Calle Espronceda') to the top and turn right at another T-junction. Drive along this road until facing directly at some bins. Turn left onto 'Carrer Isabel la Católica'. Drive up here and turn left at a blue mini roundabout. Continue down here until facing a no entry then turn right uphill. At the top of this road turn left below some pylons. Drive to the end of this road and park. The crag is up the hill a short distance.

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Guidebooks

Getting to this crag is a little difficult: As it says in the guide, its best to get a look at the place then just use the force to navigate toward it. The map in the guide is spot on with the 2 bridges and the church, but then its worth mentioning the map kind of suggests the road curves to the right and this isnt the case; you have to do a definite right turn uphill (When driving out of town) to reach the parking spot. Also, if you go through the tunnel you are likely to get locals waving and shouting at you...
Ewan - 21/Apr/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Main Sector
2 Gusano loco 5c  
3 Nen butrut 6a  
4 Susi 6a * 2
5 Acido 6a+ * 4
6 Mírate 6a+ * 8
7 Mírate variación 5c 3
8 Migueleño Schwarzeneger 5c * 7
9 Vampiro 6a+ ** 9
10 Beso negro 6c *  
11 Flipo 8a *  
12 Orinal con pedales 6c+ **  
13 Mosca 6a+ ** 15
14 Jetro 7b *  
15 Vómitos leprosos 7b+ **  
16 Pestañas postizas 7b **  
17 Super flan 7c *  
18 Guapo del sapo 7b * 3
19 Mejillas tiernas 8a *  
20 Moldura 8a *  
21 Mescalito 8a *  
22 Dimitiré Macro Plus 7c+ ***  
23 Endavid 7b+ **  
24 Espera de Juan Lema 7a+ **  
25 Oleada pétrea 6c+ *** 6
26 Distrito 6c ** 1
27 Vena Loca 7a+ *  
28 Que se mueran los feos 7a *  
29 Veneno 6b ** 4
30 Polos palos lolos 6a *  
31 Araña 6b *  
32 Aniceto que te meto 6b  
33 Ventana electrónica 6b+  
34 Tentáculos 5c 1
35 Griptorquidea 6a  
36 Los chinos 6a+  

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