Climbs 85
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 778m a.s.l
Faces SW

Robbie Phillips on the crux of Clemencia (F8b), Sector Deportivo, Cabezon D'Oro #2 © Stuart S

Crag features

Travelling north from Alicante along the motorway, the first mountain of any significance is the broad hump of the Cabezon de Oro (1209m) away on the left-hand side. The mountain is most famous for the show caves of the Cuevas de Canalobre and, although the seaward side of the hill looks tame, the western face features some extensive sheets of high quality rock. Accurate information has always been a bit tricky to get hold off although the locals have been exploring these hills for years. The ridge has three main areas of interest to climbers; on the left is the rocky ridge of the Pared de los Alcoyanos with its huge south west face, whilst the right is the twin-peaked top of the Peña de Alicante. This has an imposing west-facing wall with a collection of very impressive sport routes, and beyond this, the fine buttress of Espolón Paiju rising to the right-hand summit. Another developed wall in this area is the hard sport climbing venue of Rincon de Bella - this isn't covered here.

The cliffs face generally west and are exposed to the weather. They provide morning shade in hot weather and afternoon sun when its cooler. Sector Deportivo faces more north west and is in the shade until mid-afternoon. Although steep, it is likely to run with water in the rain although you may be able to get something done.

Approach notes

Leave the AP-7 at Junction 681 to the CV-800. Follow this for around 1km then turn off towards 'Busot' and join the CV-773. At a roundabout before the town of Busot, pick up signs to the 'Cuevas de Cantobre' and follow these to a wide parking bay on a bend. Park here - it is possible to drive further along, but parking is awkward.

Peña de Alicant and Sector Deportivo - walk along the track for around 300m to a path on the right (cairn). Follow this up the stream-bed to reach the climbing - turn left for Deportiva, and right for Alicant at a junction.

Alcoyanos - continue along the track for around 1.4km to a small house (with big dogs) on the left. The path to the cliff starts opposite and zig-zags up to arrive just to the right of where 'VIA GENE' is scratched on the rock. 

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Pared de los Alcoyanos
2 Arista 5c  
3 Frits Ulrich 6b  
4 Murciana 6a  
5 Horrible Superior 7b  
6 Lupercalla 6c  
7 Zarabanda 6c+ ** 3
8 Vía Gene 4c ** 37
9 El Don de Volar 6c+ *  
10 Cocoliso 6a 1
11 Rafa Gutierrez 5c 2
12 Indomable
-
8a  
13 Hombres de Acero
-
7b+  
14 Patricia Ritmica 7a 1
15 Mapaju 5c  
16 Torreon de le Mina 5a 1
17 Libro de Eibon 6a ** 1
18 Diedre del Pou 6a 1
19 Delicatesen 6b+ *** 5
20 Delicatessen P1
-
6b *** 1
21 El Cabeca 5a 1
22 Via Navarro-Giner/Sin Datos 5c  
23 Chorro/Pomares 5c  
24 La Sombra del Sol 6b  
25 Directa Agullo/Pomares 5c  
26 Fardachos 6b  
  Sector Sherpa
28 Situación embarazosa
-
6c+ 2
29 Dónde están mis amigos?
-
7a 2
30 Error de calculo
-
7a+  
31 Que te pierde la boquita
-
7b  
32 Arrecife de coral
-
7a+  
33 La Orotava
-
7b  
34 Chicharrero
-
8a+  
35 Hermitaña
-
7a  
36 Hermitaña Extension
-
8a+  
37 Guanche
-
8a  
38 Canario
-
8a+  
39 Sherpa
-
7c  
40 A ritmo de Trance
-
7b+  
41 Viejos Chochos * 6b+ ** 2
  Sector Deportivo
43 Rocinante 7c *** 1
44 Superrocinante 8b ***  
45 Sensación de pinzar 7c *** 9
46 Supersensación de pinzar 8a *** 1
47 Aromas del Cabezón 8b **  
48 Inima 8a *  
49 27 primaveras 8a **  
50 Terra 7c+ **  
51 Ávalon 7c+ ** 1
52 Danza Mora 8a *  
53 Clemencia 8b ***  
54 Superclemencia
-
Project  
55 Columneta 8a *** 3
56 Pasión 8a+ ***  
57 Hechicera 7b *  
58 Dragoste 7a+ *** 22
59 Pitulicha 6c+ *** 24
60 Pitulichon 7c+ **  
61 Jury 7b ** 2
62 Usoara 6b+ *** 34
63 Foarte Usoara 7a *** 24
64 Fiager 7a+ * 4
65 Fiager Extension 8a+ *  
66 Trío de ases 7c+ **  
  Peña de Alicante
68 Lucrecia 5a 1
69 Alicia en el Pais de Vertical 7b+  
70 Fanzine 5c  
71 Univesitat D'Alicant 6a  
72 Notario 6b  
73 Arista Agullo 4a 1
74 Hipertension 7a  
75 Espolón Paiju 5c * 7
76 Treblinca 6c  
77 Hollandais 6b  
78 Pieternella 5c  
79 Sr. J.R. 6a+  
80 Diedro Petit 4c  
  Sector Tocayo
82 Chico Sputnick *
-
6b 1
83 Cresta de Cueva * 3 1
84 Que vienen las palas * 6a+ 1
85 Hasta que las arañas emigren * 6a+ 1
86 El reposo del guerrero * 6b+ 2
87 Belleza caliza * 6c 1
88 Morapio * 6c+ 1
89 PP o psoe * 6b 1
90 Retorno a la Cordura * 7a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83