Altitude 778m a.s.l
Robbie Phillips on the crux of Clemencia (F8b), Sector Deportivo, Cabezon D'Oro #2 © Stuart S
Travelling north from Alicante along the motorway, the first mountain of any significance is the broad hump of the Cabezon de Oro (1209m) away on the left-hand side. The mountain is most famous for the show caves of the Cuevas de Canalobre and, although the seaward side of the hill looks tame, the western face features some extensive sheets of high quality rock. Accurate information has always been a bit tricky to get hold off although the locals have been exploring these hills for years. The ridge has three main areas of interest to climbers; on the left is the rocky ridge of the Pared de los Alcoyanos with its huge south west face, whilst the right is the twin-peaked top of the Peña de Alicante. This has an imposing west-facing wall with a collection of very impressive sport routes, and beyond this, the fine buttress of Espolón Paiju rising to the right-hand summit. Another developed wall in this area is the hard sport climbing venue of Rincon de Bella - this isn't covered here.
The cliffs face generally west and are exposed to the weather. They provide morning shade in hot weather and afternoon sun when its cooler. Sector Deportivo faces more north west and is in the shade until mid-afternoon. Although steep, it is likely to run with water in the rain although you may be able to get something done.
Leave the AP-7 at Junction 681 to the CV-800. Follow this for around 1km then turn off towards 'Busot' and join the CV-773. At a roundabout before the town of Busot, pick up signs to the 'Cuevas de Cantobre' and follow these to a wide parking bay on a bend. Park here - it is possible to drive further along, but parking is awkward.
Peña de Alicant and Sector Deportivo - walk along the track for around 300m to a path on the right (cairn). Follow this up the stream-bed to reach the climbing - turn left for Deportiva, and right for Alicant at a junction.
Alcoyanos - continue along the track for around 1.4km to a small house (with big dogs) on the left. The path to the cliff starts opposite and zig-zags up to arrive just to the right of where 'VIA GENE' is scratched on the rock.
Climbing is banned on most sectors including Deportivo (sometimes known as Chorreras or Sucina) and Sherpa from 1st january till 30th June due to nesting birds.
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