UKC

Climbs 387
Rocktype Andesite
Altitude 1344m a.s.l
Faces NE

Centurion © Guy Robertson

Crag features

Fitting of the highest mountain in Britain, Ben Nevis contains some of the finest mountaineering in the land. Unique winter climbing sought out by mountaineers from all over the world. Fine rock climbs of alpine proportions. It's got it all, just maybe not perfectly predictable weather.

For winter climbing, often at it's best in February and March once the snow has undergone some freeze thaw and the buttresses are generaly nicely rimed. More recently the mixed climbs have gained classic status and come into condition very much earlier. The season is long and the easy gullies often remain complete well into late May.

Approach notes

For accessing the North face there is now a very good path direct to the CIC hut. This is total luxury compared to what went before and has consigned some of the previous horrendously boggy approaches to the annals of history.

If approaching by road, turn off the A82 at Torlundy and head for the signed "North Face Car Park". An excellent path rises through conniferous plantation up to the deer fence. Cross this by a mighty style and follow the good path, rising very gently uphill, keeping the Allt a'Mhuilinn river to your R. A final rise lands one at the CIC hut which is a popular spot to take in the fine view of the ampitheatre of cliffs. This all assumes that it isn't sheeting it down with rain...

Put some fresh 6mm ab tat at top of Douglas Boulder 18/11/2014 and a screwgate. Leave in place as the old stuff is pretty beaten up, could do with a lot of it being cut out and taken down!
Nathan Adam - 28/Nov/14
The abseil post at the top of Coire Leis has been replaced by a cairn. Construction of the cairn to replace the No. 4 gully post (already gone,) is underway. Once finished it should be a 6 foot high, columnar cairn with triangular capstone.
jonnie3430 - 24/Sep/12
Perhaps the best mountain routes in the UK ?
Ben Tye - 16/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Ben Nevis summit
-
summit 1551
2 Carn Dearg
-
summit 96
3 Carn Dearg SW summit 20
4 Meall an t-Suidhe summit 14
  COIRE LEIS
  Little Brenva Face
7 Carn Mor Dearg Arete
-
1 324
8 Carn Mor Dearg Arete I ** 585
9 Final Buttress
-
III 4 15
10 Bob Run
-
II ** 41
11 Moonwalk
-
IV 3 ** 23
12 Cresta
-
III 3 ** 39
13 Cresta Direct
-
IV 4 * 9
14 Slalom
-
III * 6
15 Super G
-
VI 6 ** 2
16 Wall of the Winds VI 5  
17 Frost Bite
-
IV 4 3
18 Isandhlwana
-
V 5 ** 2
19 Route Major
-
IV 4 *** 11
20 Right Major IV 6 * 1
21 The Eastern Climb
-
S * 1
  North East Buttress
23 North East Buttress
-
VD *** 221
24 North East Buttress IV 4 *** 423
25 The Lime Green Gaiter
-
V 6 * 1
26 Newbigging's 80 Minute Route
-
IV 4 1
27 Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Right Hand Variation
-
V 6  
28 Orient Express
-
E2 5c  
29 Orient Express IX 8 ** 1
30 Steam Train
-
HVS 5a  
31 Steam Train
-
VI 7 * 2
32 Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Far Right Variation
-
VD * 4
33 Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Far Right Variation
-
IV 4 5
  OBSERVATORY GULLY
  First Platform
36 Raeburns Arete S ** 109
37 Raeburn's Arete
-
V 6 ** 4
38 Green Hollow Route
-
IV 4 * 2
39 Bayonet Route
-
HS ** 8
40 Bayonet Route
-
IV 4 1
41 Ruddy Rocks
-
VD 4
42 Ruddy Rocks
-
IV 4  
43 Slingsby's Chimney
-
II * 95
  Minus Three Buttress
45 Slab and Rib Variation
-
IV 5 * 6
46 Right-Hand Wall Route
-
IV 5 * 3
47 Right-Hand Wall Route Direct Finish
-
V 4 2
48 Wagroochimsia
-
IV 5 1
49 Platform Rib
-
IV 4 ** 9
50 Minus Three Gully
-
IV 5 *** 57
  Minus Two Buttress
52 Left-hand Route
-
VS 4b * 13
53 Left-Hand Route (Minus Two Buttress)
-
VI 6 ** 5
54 Central Route
-
VI 7 1
55 Central Route
-
HVS 5a *  
56 Right-Hand Route
-
VS 4b **  
57 Right-Hand Route
-
VI 6 * 2
58 Long Division
-
E1 5b * 2
59 Minus Two Buttress
-
V 5 * 2
60 Minus Two Gully V 6 *** 114
  Minus One Buttress
62 Minus One Direct E1 5b *** 67
63 Minus One Direct
-
VIII 8 *** 1
64 Minus One Buttress
-
VII 6 *** 4
65 Minus One Gully VI 6 *** 63
66 Minus One Gully Direct Finish
-
V 5 ** 1
  Orion Face
68 Dark Star VI 5 *** 1
69 Astronomy
-
VI 5 *** 1
70 Astronomy Direct Finish
-
VI 5 ** 3
71 Astronomy
-
VS * 1
72 Smith-Holt Route V 5 ** 9
73 The Long Climb VS *** 88
74 The Long Climb Finish VII 6 *** 8
75 Orion Face Direct
-
V 5 *** 320
76 Orion Direct - Tower Variations VI 5 *** 19
77 Zybernaught VI 6 ** 2
78 Astral Highway
-
VI 5 ** 55
79 Space Walk
-
VII 6 * 3
80 Orion Directissima VI 5 ** 19
81 Slav Route
-
VI 5 *** 39
82 Orion Grooves VI 5 * 1
83 Zero Gully
-
V 4 *** 237
  Observatory Ridge
85 Observatory Ridge (Summer)
-
VD *** 263
86 Observatory Ridge
-
V 4 *** 162
  Observatory Ridge West Face
88 Abacus
-
IV 4 ** 2
89 Vade Mecum
-
V 5 *** 11
90 Hadrian's Wall Direct
-
V 5 *** 336
91 Sickle
-
V 5 *** 72
92 Galactic Hitchhiker
-
VI 5 *** 7
93 Pointless VII 6 *** 1
94 Interstellar Overdrive
-
VI 6 *** 1
95 Point Five Gully V 5 *** 714
  Observatory Buttress
97 Point Blank VII 6 1
98 Left Edge Route
-
V 5 *** 9
99 Appointment with Fear
-
VII 6 *  
100 Match Point VI 5 ** 2
101 Rubicon Wall S * 1
102 Rubicon Wall
-
VI 5 *** 18
103 Observatory Buttress (Summer)
-
VD * 11
104 Observatory Buttress
-
V 4 *** 103
105 Observatory Buttress Direct Finish V 5 ** 11
106 North-West Face V 5 * 1
  Indicator Wall
108 Good Friday Climb
-
III *** 278
109 Good Friday Climb (Direct Finish) III 4 34
110 Indicator Wall
-
V 4 *** 174
111 Indicator Right-Hand
-
V 5 *** 77
112 Riders on the Storm
-
VI 5 *** 10
113 Ship of Fools VIII 7 1
114 Arctic Tern VII 5 1
115 Albatross VI 5 *** 10
116 The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner Direct VII 7 *** 2
117 Call Me Ishmael VIII 9 *** 1
118 Psychedelic Wall
-
VI 5 *** 49
119 Satanic Verses
-
VI 5 *** 12
120 Shot in the Dark
-
V 5 ** 6
121 Caledonia
-
V 5 ** 4
122 Shot in the Back IV 4 * 1
123 Shot in the Foot V 4 5
124 Gardyloo Gully II/III * 257
  Gardyloo Buttress
126 Left Edge Route (Gardyloo Buttress)
-
VI 5 1
127 Kellett's Route VI 6 *** 15
128 Smith's Route
-
V 5 *** 299
129 The Great Glen VI 5 * 3
130 Right Edge IV 4 2
131 Tower Gully I 239
132 Upper Tower Cascade LH
-
III 13
133 Upper Tower Cascade RH
-
III 7
134 Optimist's ArĂȘte V 6 * 1
  TOWER RIDGE AREA
  Tower Ridge, East Flank
137 Tower Scoop III ** 431
138 Tower Cleft
-
III * 8
139 Clefthanger VII 7 ** 1
140 Frosty's Vigil VIII 8 ** 2
141 Faith Healer VIII 7 * 1
142 Echo Traverse (Direct Icefall Star / Wet Spring Start) V 6 * 2
143 Goodeve's Route
-
III 3
144 The Brass Monkey VII 8 *** 3
145 The Great Chimney
-
IV 5 ** 16
Climb name Grade
146 Chimney Groove IV 6 2
147 Alaska Highway IV 1
  Tower Ridge
149 Tower Ridge
-
D *** 1255
150 Great Tower Variation: Ogilvy's Route VD 2
151 Great Tower Variation: Bell's Route VD 3
152 Tower Ridge IV 3 *** 1321
  Douglas Boulder
154 Douglas Gap East Gully
-
I 150
155 East Ridge IV 5 23
156 Direct Route VD ** 161
157 Direct Route
-
IV 4 * 12
158 Direct Route II
-
S * 13
159 Down to the Wire V 6 1
160 North-West Face Route
-
V 5 6
161 Militant Chimney VI 6 3
162 Turf War V 6 *** 3
163 Left Hand Chimney V 6 * 2
164 Gutless IV 5 24
165 Rutless VII 8 ** 1
166 Cutlass
-
VI 7 * 67
167 Cutlass
-
VS 4b * 3
168 Jacknife V 6 45
169 South West Ridge M * 10
170 South-West Ridge IV 5 ** 244
171 Douglas Gap West Gully
-
I * 147
  Secondary Tower Ridge
173 Fawlty Towers III * 119
174 Breaking Good II * 2
175 1934 Route
-
II/III ** 41
176 Vagabond's Rib S 1
177 Vanishing Gully
-
V 5 *** 300
178 Fatboy Slim
-
VI 6 * 3
179 Italian Climb
-
III * 39
180 Italian Right-Hand
-
IV 4 ** 146
181 The Chute
-
V 4 * 2
  GARADH NA CISTE
183 Garadh Gully II * 242
184 Garadh Buttress II * 3
185 Thea III * 2
186 Crying Out Loud IV 5 * 2
187 Aquatherapy * III 1
188 Broad Gully
-
II 14
  Pinnacle Buttress of the Tower
190 Stringfellow
-
VI 6 *** 18
191 Smooth Operator VI 7 2
192 Pinnacle Buttress Direct
-
V 5 ** 4
193 Glovers Chimney
-
III 4 *** 323
  Goodeve's Buttress
195 The Gutter IV 4 *** 16
196 The White Line
-
III ** 114
197 Beam Me Up Scotty
-
III *  
  Raeburn's Wall
199 The Blue Horizon
-
IV 4 1
200 La Panthere Rose VI 6 * 3
201 Expert's Choice III ** 32
202 Raeburn's Easy Route
-
II *** 155
203 Raeburn's not so Easy III 4 17
204 The Cascade
-
IV 5 ** 87
  Coire na Ciste
  Number Two Gully Buttress
207 Five Finger Discount
-
IV 4 12
208 Burrito's Groove
-
IV 5 ** 9
209 JP Is Back
-
IV 4 * 5
210 BD was Here III * 3
211 Number Two Gully Buttress
-
III *** 109
212 Number Two Gully II *** 495
  Comb Gully Buttress
214 Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - Left V 6  
215 Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - Right IV 4  
216 Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - Rightmost IV 4 1
217 Comb Gully Buttress
-
IV 4 ** 63
218 Comb Gully Buttress - Annick Exit IV 5 2
219 Comb Gully Buttress - Icicle Finish V 5 * 4
220 Clough's Chimney
-
VI 6 * 5
221 Roaring Forties
-
V 5 ** 2
222 Big Bad Ben
-
VII 7  
223 Comb Gully
-
IV 4 *** 559
  The Comb
225 The Comb - Left Flank IV 4 * 2
226 Hesperides Ledge
-
III ** 4
227 The Good Groove
-
VII 7 **  
228 Quisling Wall
-
VI 6 *  
229 Lost Souls
-
VI 6 2
230 Tower Face of the Comb
-
VI 6 *** 54
231 Anubis XII 12 ***  
232 Anubis E8 6c ***  
233 Don't Die of Ignorance
-
XI 11 3
234 Pigott's Route
-
V 6 * 2
235 Mercury
-
V 5 ** 5
236 Green Gully
-
IV 3 *** 820
  Number Three Gully Buttress
238 Venus
-
V 5 *  
239 Aphrodite
-
IV 4 ** 9
240 Tramp
-
IV 4 * 1
241 Diana
-
V 5 ** 17
242 Vulture
-
V 5 **  
243 Number Three Gully Buttress
-
III *** 349
244 Number Three Gully Buttress Direct Finish IV 5 * 18
245 Quickstep
-
V 5 * 21
246 Boston Two Step
-
VI 6 * 1
247 Two-Step Corner
-
V 5 ** 128
248 Arthur VIII 8 ** 2
249 Knuckleduster
-
VIII 9 2
250 Knuckleduster
-
HVS 5a **  
251 Knuckleduster Direct VIII 9 ** 2
252 Curly's Arete VIII 8 * 1
253 Sioux Wall
-
VIII 8 36
254 Sioux Wall
-
HVS 5a ** 2
255 Tomahawk Crack VIII 9 *** 4
256 Apache VIII 8 ** 4
257 Thompson's Route IV 4 *** 201
258 Gremlins
-
VI 6 ** 4
259 Gargoyle Wall
-
VI 6 *** 81
260 Hobgoblin
-
VI 7 ** 9
261 Babylon
-
VII 8 ** 27
262 Hanging Garden VII 8 ** 2
263 Collaboration VI 7 **  
264 Snuff Wall VIII 8 1
265 Sake VIII 9 ** 3
266 Winter Chimney
-
V 5 ** 12
267 El Nino III 4 2
268 Winter Cascade IV 5 * 15
269 Number Three Gully
-
I ** 359
270 Number Three Gully (Variation finish)
-
II 12
  Creag Coire na Ciste
272 To Those Who Wait IX 9 *** 1
273 The Secret VIII 9 *** 13
274 Catriona VIII 8 1
275 Cornucopia VII 9 ** 6
276 Darth Vader
-
VII 8 *** 46
277 Han Solo VIII 7 ** 1
278 Storm Trooper
-
VIII 8  
279 Arch Angel
-
VII 7 ** 1
280 Avenging Angel Direct VIII 8 6
281 South Sea Bubble
-
VII 6 **  
282 South Gully III * 56
283 Lost The Place
-
V 5 *** 40
284 Une Journee Ordinaire
-
V 6 ** 7
285 Levitation
-
VI 6 * 1
286 Central Gully, Creag Coire na Ciste III 4 ** 75
287 Central Gully Right-Hand
-
IV 4 *** 165
288 Wendigo
-
IV 4 ** 38
289 Place Your Bets
-
VI 6 ** 1
290 North Gully II 200
Climb name Grade
291 North Gully - The Left Fork IV 5 ** 4
292 The Gift III 4 15
293 Four Play IV 4 4
294 Number Four Gully
-
I ** 592
295 Number Four Gully Buttress 3 3
296 Fore 'n' Daft * IV 4 * 1
  South Trident Buttress
298 1944 Route
-
S * 8
299 The Minge VII 8 ** 1
300 Tangerine Dreams VII 8 ** 2
301 The Groove Climb
-
V 6 * 4
302 Sidewinder
-
HVS 5a ** 10
303 Sidewinder VII 8 ** 16
304 Strident Edge
-
VS 4c ** 12
305 Strident Edge (winter) VI 7 *** 11
306 String Vest Theory VII 8 * 2
307 Devastation
-
E1 5b ** 1
308 Devastation (Winter) VII 8 ** 4
309 Spartacus
-
VS 4c  
310 Spartacus Winter VI 7  
311 The Slab Climb
-
S * 1
312 The Slab Climb VI 7 ** 33
313 The Clanger
-
IV 5 ** 11
314 Pinnacle Arete
-
IV 4 * 13
315 Pinnacle Arete
-
VD ** 11
316 Joyful Chimneys IV 4 4
317 Central Gully, South Trident Buttress III * 20
318 Nasturtium IV 4 * 6
319 Morton's Neuroma V 5 * 3
320 Jubilation
-
IV 4 * 16
321 Poseidon Groove
-
IV 5 3
  Jubilee Buttress
323 Jubilee Climb
-
VD  
324 Jubilee Climb
-
II 12
325 Mega Reve
-
VI 6 *  
  Central Trident Buttress
327 Steam
-
HVS 5a * 2
328 Feeding Frenzy
-
VI 7 *  
329 Mega Route X
-
V 6 *** 37
330 Heidbanger E1 5b * 5
331 Heidbanger (Winter) VIII 8 * 2
332 Metamorphosis E2 5b ** 2
  North Trident Buttress
334 Neptune Gully
-
III 25
335 North Trident Buttress
-
III ** 27
336 Moonlight Gully
-
II * 59
  Moonlight Gully Buttress
338 Fifties Revival IV 6 1
339 Diagonal Route III 17
340 The Big Cheese VIII 8 ** 3
341 Right-Hand Chimney, Moonlight Gully Buttress
-
IV 4 ** 22
342 Phosphorescent Grooves III 4 * 2
343 Take Off IV 5 1
344 Number Five Gully
-
I ** 189
345 Gaslight * IV 5  
346 Moonlight Arete * IV 5  
  Number Five Gully Buttress
348 Free Range VII 7 *** 3
349 Ledge Route
-
II *** 1295
350 Ledge Route 2 *** 433
  CARN DEARG, BEN NEVIS
  Cairn Dearg Cascade
353 Carn Dearg Cascade / CIC Icefall V 5 *** 59
354 Carn Dearg Right Cascade / CIC Icefall IV 4 * 73
  Carn Dearg Buttress
356 Curtain Rail IV 4 * 33
357 Mourning Slab
-
VS  
358 The Blind
-
VS 4b *  
359 The Curtain
-
IV 5 *** 369
360 Route I
-
VI 6 *** 24
361 Route I
-
S ** 19
362 Route I Direct Start
-
VI 6 * 21
363 PM
-
VS 4c *  
364 Route II Direct
-
VI 6 *** 8
365 Route ll Direct
-
S *** 24
366 Dissection
-
HVS 5a  
367 The Shadow VS 4c ** 7
368 The Shadow
-
VII 6 *** 4
369 The Bullroar HVS 5a *** 51
370 Adrenalin Rush
-
E3 6a  
371 Cowslip
-
E2 5c  
372 Torro E2 5b *** 86
373 Red Rag
-
E2 5c **  
374 Centurion HVS 5a *** 297
375 Centurion (Winter)
-
VIII 8 ** 9
376 King Kong
-
E2 5c *** 35
377 Trajan's Column E6 6b ***  
378 The Bat
-
E2 5b *** 73
379 The Wicked
-
E6 6b *  
380 Sassenach
-
E1 5b ** 5
381 The Banana Groove
-
E4 6a *** 9
382 Agrippa
-
E5 6b *** 5
383 Caligula E3 5c ** 5
384 Titan's Wall E3 5c *** 38
385 Boadicea E4 6a ** 1
386 Shield Direct VII 7 *** 5
387 Shield Direct
-
HVS 5a ** 2
388 Gemini VI 6 *** 57
389 The Bewildabeast VI 6 *** 7
390 Waterfall Gully
-
IV 4 * 173
391 Waterfall Gully, True Finish
-
VI 6 ** 7
392 The Trial E3 5c ** 2
  North Wall of Carn Dearg
394 Macphee's Route V 6 * 2
395 Kelletts North Wall Route VII 7 ** 1
  Cousin's Buttress
397 The Shroud
-
VI 6 ** 15
398 Harrison's Climb Direct
-
IV 4 *** 89
399 Cousinade VII 8 ** 3
  Carn Dearg Summit Buttresses
401 Colando Gully I/II * 2
  Raeburn's Buttress
403 Boomer's Requiem
-
V 5 *** 96
404 Raeburn's Buttress
-
IV 5 ** 25
405 The Crack HVS 5a  
406 The Crack VIII 8 *** 1
407 Teufel Grooves
-
IX 9 ** 1
  Castle Corrie
409 Compression Crack
-
V 5 ** 60
410 South Castle Gully
-
II * 52
411 Plum Duff V 5 ** 1
412 The Castle
-
III * 28
413 The Castle Direct IV 4 1
414 North Castle Gully
-
II * 57
  Castle Ridge
416 Castle Ridge III ** 434
417 Castle Ridge
-
M ** 248
418 Wandering Mr Sea * IV 4 1
  Castle Ridge, North Face
420 The Serpent
-
II * 4
421 The Moat II ** 4
422 Lobby Dancer
-
VI 6 *** 2
423 Nordwand
-
IV 3 ** 27
424 Nordwand direct
-
IV 5 7
425 Alchemist VII 8 ** 1
  Glen Nevis (SW) Flank
427 Five Finger Gully
-
IV 4 ** 1
428 Surgeon's Rib 1 3
429 Surgeon's Gully
-
V 5 **  
430 Polldubh Gully
-
IV 5 **  
431 Steal Waterfall
-
III 5
432 Surprise Gully II * 2
433 Waterfall cascade WI-5 *  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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