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At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 429
Rocktype Andesite
Altitude 1344m a.s.l
Faces all

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Centurion © Guy Robertson

Crag features

Fitting of the highest mountain in Britain, Ben Nevis contains some of the finest mountaineering in the land. Unique winter climbing sought out by mountaineers from all over the world. Fine rock climbs of alpine proportions. It's got it all, just maybe not perfectly predictable weather.

For winter climbing, often at it's best in February and March once the snow has undergone some freeze thaw and the buttresses are generaly nicely rimed. More recently the mixed climbs have gained classic status and come into condition very much earlier. The season is long and the easy gullies often remain complete well into late May.

 

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Approach notes

For accessing the North face there is now a very good path direct to the CIC hut. This is total luxury compared to what went before and has consigned some of the previous horrendously boggy approaches to the annals of history.

If approaching by road, turn off the A82 at Torlundy and head for the signed 'North Face Car Park'. An excellent path rises through conniferous plantation up to the deer fence. Cross this by a mighty style and follow the good path, rising very gently uphill, keeping the Allt a'Mhuilinn river to your right. A final rise lands one at the CIC hut which is a popular spot to take in the fine view of the ampitheatre of cliffs. This all assumes that it isn't sheeting it down with rain.

Put some fresh 6mm ab tat at top of Douglas Boulder 18/11/2014 and a screwgate. Leave in place as the old stuff is pretty beaten up, could do with a lot of it being cut out and taken down!
Nathan Adam - 28/Nov/14
The abseil post at the top of Coire Leis has been replaced by a cairn. Construction of the cairn to replace the No. 4 gully post (already gone,) is underway. Once finished it should be a 6 foot high, columnar cairn with triangular capstone.
jonnie3430 - 24/Sep/12
Perhaps the best mountain routes in the UK ?
Ben Tye - 16/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Ben Nevis summit
-
summit 1901
2 Carn Dearg
-
summit 129
3 Carn Dearg SW summit 30
4 Meall an t-Suidhe summit 20
  COIRE LEIS
  Little Brenva Face
7 Carn Mor Dearg Arete
-
1 422
8 Carn Mor Dearg Arete I ** 708
9 Final Buttress
-
III 4 20
10 Bob Run II * 52
11 Moonwalk IV 3 * 27
12 Cresta III ** 46
13 Cresta Direct IV * 10
14 Slalom
-
III * 11
15 Super G
-
VI 6 ** 2
16 Wall of the Winds VI 5  
17 Frost Bite
-
IV 4 5
18 Isandhlwana
-
V 5 ** 3
19 Route Major IV 4 *** 12
20 Right Major IV 6 * 1
21 Frostbite IV 4 3
22 The Eastern Climb
-
S * 4
  North East Buttress
24 North East Buttress
-
VD *** 286
25 North East Buttress IV 5 *** 457
26 The Lime Green Gaiter
-
V 6 * 2
27 Newbigging's 80 Minute Route
-
IV 4 2
28 Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Right Hand Variation
-
V 6  
29 Orient Express
-
E2 5c  
30 Orient Express IX 8 ** 1
31 Steam Train
-
HVS 5a  
32 Steam Train
-
VI 7 * 2
33 Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Far Right Variation
-
VD * 4
34 Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Far Right Variation
-
IV 4 6
  OBSERVATORY GULLY
  First Platform
37 Raeburns Arete S ** 141
38 Raeburn's Arete
-
V 6 ** 4
39 Green Hollow Route
-
IV 4 * 8
40 Bayonet Route
-
HS ** 14
41 Bayonet Route
-
IV 4 2
42 Ruddy Rocks
-
VD 7
43 Ruddy Rocks
-
IV 4  
44 Slingsby's Chimney II * 104
  Minus Three Buttress
46 Slab and Rib Variation
-
IV 5 * 7
47 Right-Hand Wall Route
-
IV 5 * 6
48 Right-Hand Wall Route Direct Finish
-
V 4 3
49 Wagroochimsia
-
IV 5 1
50 Platform Rib IV 5 ** 21
51 Minus Three Gully IV 5 ** 103
  Minus Two Buttress
53 Left-hand Route
-
VS 4b * 16
54 Left-Hand Route (Minus Two Buttress) VI 6 ** 10
55 Central Route
-
VI 7 1
56 Central Route
-
HVS 5a *  
57 Right-Hand Route
-
VS 4b ** 4
58 Right-Hand Route
-
VI 6 * 5
59 Long Division
-
E1 5b * 3
60 Minus Two Buttress
-
V 5 * 3
61 Minus Two Gully V 5 *** 155
62 Left Edge Variation - Left Hand Route VS 4c *** 3
63 Calculus
-
VIII 8 ** 1
  Minus One Buttress
65 Minus One Direct E1 5b *** 108
66 Minus One Direct
-
VIII 8 *** 1
67 Minus One Buttress
-
VII 6 *** 2
68 Minus One Gully VI 6 *** 87
69 Minus One Gully Direct Finish
-
V 5 ** 2
  Orion Face
71 Dark Star VI 5 *** 1
72 Astronomy VI 5 ** 2
73 Astronomy Direct Finish VI 5 *** 4
74 Astronomy
-
VS * 2
75 Smith-Holt Route V 5 * 11
76 The Long Climb VS *** 97
77 The Long Climb Finish VII 6 *** 9
78 Orion Face Direct V 5 *** 348
79 Orion Direct - Tower Variations VI 5 *** 22
80 Zybernaught VI 6 ** 3
81 Astral Highway VI 5 ** 63
82 Space Walk
-
VII 6 * 4
83 Orion Directissima VI 5 ** 22
84 Slav Route VI 5 ** 43
85 Orion Grooves VI 5 * 1
86 Zero Gully V 4 *** 246
  Observatory Ridge
88 Observatory Ridge (Summer)
-
VD *** 322
89 Observatory Ridge V 4 *** 185
  Observatory Ridge West Face
91 Abacus
-
IV 4 ** 2
92 Vade Mecum V 5 ** 16
93 Hadrian's Wall Direct V 5 *** 354
94 Sickle V 5 *** 81
95 Galactic Hitchhiker VI 5 *** 11
96 Pointless VII 6 ** 2
97 Interstellar Overdrive
-
VI 6 *** 2
98 Point Five Gully V 5 *** 745
  Observatory Buttress
100 Point Blank VII 6 2
101 Left Edge Route V 5 *** 11
102 Appointment with Fear
-
VII 6 *  
103 Match Point VI 5 ** 2
104 Rubicon Wall S * 5
105 Rubicon Wall V 5 *** 22
106 Observatory Buttress (Summer)
-
VD * 14
107 Observatory Buttress V 4 ** 117
108 Observatory Buttress Direct Finish V 5 ** 12
109 Never-Never Land VI 6 *  
110 North-West Face V 5 * 2
  Indicator Wall
112 Good Friday Climb III *** 295
113 Good Friday Climb (Direct Finish) III 4 36
114 Indicator Wall V 4 *** 181
115 Indicator Right-Hand V 5 ** 82
116 Riders on the Storm VI 5 ** 14
117 Ship of Fools VIII 7 1
118 Arctic Tern VII 5 1
119 Albatross VI 5 *** 13
120 The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner Direct VII 7 *** 3
121 Call Me Ishmael VIII 9 *** 1
122 Psychedelic Wall VI 5 *** 53
123 Satanic Verses VI 5 ** 12
124 Shot in the Dark V 5 * 7
125 Caledonia V ** 6
126 Shot in the Back IV 4 * 2
127 Shot in the Foot V 4 6
128 Gardyloo Gully II * 299
  Gardyloo Buttress
130 Left Edge Route (Gardyloo Buttress)
-
VI 5 1
131 Kellett's Route VI 6 *** 18
132 Smith's Route V 5 *** 313
133 The Great Glen VI 5 * 4
134 Right Edge IV 4 2
135 Tower Gully I ** 258
136 Upper Tower Cascade LH
-
III 16
137 Upper Tower Cascade RH
-
III 10
138 Augean Alley Finish V 5 ***  
139 Optimist's ArĂȘte V 6 * 2
140 Icicle Variation V 5 *** 1
  TOWER RIDGE AREA
  Tower Ridge, East Flank
143 Tower Scoop III ** 451
144 Tower Cleft III * 13
145 Clefthanger VII 7 ** 1
146 Frosty's Vigil VIII 8 ** 2
147 Faith Healer VIII 7 * 1
148 Echo Traverse (Direct Icefall Star / Wet Spring Start) V 6 * 2
149 Goodeve's Route
-
III 3
150 The Brass Monkey VII 8 *** 5
151 The Great Chimney IV 5 ** 22
152 Chimney Groove IV 6 3
153 Alaska Highway IV 1
154 Night Fury
-
IX 9  
155 Echo Wall none  
156 Grand Central
-
VI 6  
157 Wonderwoman V 6 * 1
  Tower Ridge
159 Tower Ridge
-
D *** 1540
160 Great Tower Variation: Ogilvy's Route VD 2
161 Great Tower Variation: Bell's Route VD 3
Climb name Grade
162 Tower Ridge IV 3 *** 1497
163 Recess Route IV 6 2
  Douglas Boulder
165 Douglas Gap East Gully
-
I 191
166 East Ridge IV 5 30
167 Direct Route VD ** 195
168 Direct Route
-
IV 4 * 15
169 Direct Route II
-
S * 16
170 Down to the Wire V 6 2
171 North-West Face Route
-
V 5 16
172 Militant Chimney VI 6 4
173 Turf War V 6 *** 9
174 Left Hand Chimney V 6 * 2
175 Gutless IV 5 35
176 Rutless VII 8 ** 1
177 Cutlass VI 7 * 83
178 Cutlass
-
VS 4b * 3
179 Jacknife V 6 63
180 South West Ridge M * 20
181 South-West Ridge IV ** 330
182 Douglas Gap West Gully I * 180
183 Western Grooves IV 5  
184 Right Hand Chimney * VI 7 ** 1
  Secondary Tower Ridge
186 Fawlty Towers III * 162
187 Breaking Good II * 4
188 1934 Route
-
II/III ** 52
189 Vagabond's Rib S 4
190 Vanishing Gully V 5 *** 339
191 Fatboy Slim
-
VI 6 * 4
192 Italian Climb III * 51
193 Italian Right-Hand IV 4 ** 160
194 The Chute V 4 * 2
195 No Success Like Failure
-
IX 8  
196 1931 Route
-
IV 4 1
  GARADH NA CISTE
198 Garadh Gully II * 255
199 Garadh Buttress II * 6
200 Thea III * 2
201 Crying Out Loud IV 5 * 2
202 Aquatherapy III 4
203 Broad Gully
-
II 17
  Pinnacle Buttress of the Tower
205 Stringfellow VI 6 *** 24
206 Smooth Operator VI 7 2
207 Pinnacle Buttress Direct V 5 ** 4
208 Glovers Chimney III 4 *** 342
209 Fatal Error IV *  
210 Pinnacle Buttress of the Tower
-
VD *  
211 Pinnacle Buttress of the Tower
-
III 4 ** 1
  Goodeve's Buttress
213 The Gutter IV 4 *** 19
214 The White Line IV 4 ** 118
215 Beam Me Up Scotty III *  
  Raeburn's Wall
217 The Blue Horizon
-
IV 4 1
218 La Panthere Rose VI 6 * 3
219 Expert's Choice III ** 37
220 Raeburn's Easy Route II *** 166
221 Raeburn's not so Easy III 4 22
222 Pinnacle Buttress Direct V 5 **  
223 The Cascade IV 5 ** 95
  Coire na Ciste
  Number Two Gully Buttress
226 Five Finger Discount IV 4 * 14
227 Burrito's Groove IV 5 ** 11
228 JP Is Back
-
IV 4 * 6
229 BD was Here III * 4
230 Number Two Gully Buttress III ** 123
231 Number Two Gully II *** 563
  Comb Gully Buttress
233 Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - Left V 6 1
234 Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - Right IV 4 3
235 Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - Rightmost IV 4 1
236 Comb Gully Buttress IV 5 ** 67
237 Comb Gully Buttress - Annick Exit IV 5 2
238 Comb Gully Buttress - Icicle Finish V 5 * 3
239 Clough's Chimney VI 6 * 8
240 Roaring Forties V 5 * 6
241 Big Bad Ben
-
VII 7 1
242 Comb Gully IV 4 *** 589
  The Comb
244 The Comb - Left Flank IV 4 * 3
245 Hesperides Ledge III * 8
246 The Good Groove VII 7 **  
247 Quisling Wall
-
VI 6 * 1
248 Lost Souls
-
VI 6 2
249 Tower Face of the Comb VI 6 *** 64
250 Anubis XII 12 *** 1
251 Anubis E8 6c ***  
252 Don't Die of Ignorance
-
XI 11 3
253 Pigott's Route
-
V 6 * 2
254 Mercury V 5 ** 6
255 Green Gully IV 3 *** 864
256 Mr Fahrenheit E7 6b ***  
257 Don't Stop Me Now
-
E6 6b **  
258 Long Lost Chimney V 5 *  
  Number Three Gully Buttress
260 Venus
-
V 5 *  
261 Aphrodite IV 4 * 10
262 Tramp
-
IV 4 * 2
263 Diana V 5 ** 20
264 Vulture
-
V 5 **  
265 Number Three Gully Buttress III 4 *** 405
266 Number Three Gully Buttress Direct Finish IV 5 * 36
267 Quickstep V 5 * 25
268 Boston Two Step
-
VI 6 * 1
269 Two-Step Corner V 5 *** 134
270 Arthur VIII 8 ** 2
271 Knuckleduster
-
VIII 9 2
272 Knuckleduster
-
HVS 5a **  
273 Knuckleduster Direct VIII 9 ** 2
274 Curly's Arete VIII 8 * 1
275 Sioux Wall VIII 8 *** 42
276 Sioux Wall
-
HVS 5a ** 3
277 Tomahawk Crack VIII 9 *** 4
278 Apache VIII 8 ** 4
279 Thompson's Route IV 4 ** 221
280 Gremlins
-
VI 6 ** 4
281 Gargoyle Wall VI 6 *** 112
282 Hobgoblin
-
VI 7 ** 15
283 Babylon VII 7 ** 30
284 Hanging Garden VII 8 ** 4
285 Collaboration VI 7 **  
286 Snuff Wall VIII 8 1
287 Sake VIII 9 ** 3
288 Winter Chimney IV 5 * 17
289 El Nino III 4 3
290 MVG III 3
291 Cherry on Top Finish III 5 1
292 Winter Cascade IV 5 * 16
293 Number Three Gully I ** 444
294 Number Three Gully (Variation finish)
-
II 18
295 Thompson's Route, direct finish V 7 ** 1
  Creag Coire na Ciste
297 To Those Who Wait IX 9 *** 1
298 The Secret VIII 9 *** 15
299 Catriona VIII 8 1
300 Cornucopia VII 8 ** 8
301 Darth Vader VII 7 *** 57
302 Han Solo VIII 7 ** 1
303 Storm Trooper
-
VIII 8  
304 Arch Angel VII 7 ** 3
305 Avenging Angel Direct VIII 8 10
306 South Sea Bubble
-
VII 6 **  
307 South Gully III * 67
308 Lost The Place V 5 ** 53
309 The Sorcerer VII 8 ** 3
310 Une Journee Ordinaire V 6 ** 8
311 Levitation
-
VI 6 * 1
312 Central Gully, Creag Coire na Ciste III 4 ** 87
313 Central Gully Right-Hand IV 4 *** 189
314 Wendigo IV 4 * 44
315 Place Your Bets
-
VI 6 ** 1
316 North Gully II ** 209
317 North Gully - The Left Fork IV 5 ** 5
318 The Gift III 4 15
319 Four Play IV 4 4
320 Fore 'n' Daft IV 4 * 2
321 Number Four Gully I * 701
322 Number Four Gully Buttress 3 3
Climb name Grade
323 Blockhead V 6  
324 Trop Belle pour Toi IV 5 1
325 Jive Turkey V 6 * 2
  South Trident Buttress
327 Poseidon Groove
-
IV 5 4
328 1944 Route
-
S * 10
329 The Minge VII 8 ** 1
330 Tangerine Dreams VII 8 ** 2
331 The Groove Climb
-
V 6 * 4
332 Sidewinder
-
HVS 5a ** 13
333 Sidewinder VII 8 ** 17
334 Strident Edge
-
VS 4c ** 15
335 Strident Edge (winter) VI 7 *** 12
336 String Vest Theory VII 8 * 2
337 Devastation
-
E1 5b ** 1
338 Devastation (Winter) VII 8 ** 4
339 Spartacus
-
VS 4c  
340 Spartacus Winter VI 7  
341 The Slab Climb
-
S * 4
342 The Slab Climb VI 7 ** 37
343 The Clanger IV 5 ** 12
344 Pinnacle Arete IV 4 * 19
345 Pinnacle Arete
-
VD ** 15
346 Joyful Chimneys IV 4 4
347 Central Gully, South Trident Buttress III * 20
348 Nasturtium IV 4 * 6
349 Morton's Neuroma V 5 * 3
350 Jubilation
-
IV 4 * 19
351 Titan Cracks V 6 2
  Jubilee Buttress
353 Jubilee Climb
-
VD 3
354 Jubilee Climb II 15
355 Mega Reve
-
VI 6 *  
  Central Trident Buttress
357 Steam
-
HVS 5a * 2
358 Feeding Frenzy
-
VI 7 *  
359 Mega Route X V 6 *** 45
360 Heidbanger E1 5b * 5
361 Heidbanger (Winter) VIII 8 * 2
362 Metamorphosis E2 5b ** 3
  North Trident Buttress
364 Neptune Gully
-
III 29
365 North Trident Buttress
-
III ** 30
366 Moonlight Gully II * 65
  Moonlight Gully Buttress
368 Fifties Revival IV 6 2
369 Diagonal Route III * 28
370 The Big Cheese VIII 8 ** 3
371 Right-Hand Chimney, Moonlight Gully Buttress
-
IV 4 ** 25
372 Phosphorescent Grooves III 4 * 2
373 Take Off IV 5 1
374 Number Five Gully I ** 204
375 Gaslight IV 5  
376 Moonlight Arete IV 5  
377 Right-Hand Chimney IV 5 * 1
378 Right-Hand Chimney, Moonlight Gully Buttress VD 2
  Number Five Gully Buttress
380 Free Range VII 7 *** 3
381 Ledge Route II *** 1476
382 Ledge Route 2 *** 540
  CARN DEARG, BEN NEVIS
  Cairn Dearg Cascade
385 Carn Dearg Cascade / CIC Icefall V 6 * 61
386 Carn Dearg Right Cascade / CIC Icefall IV 4 * 82
  Carn Dearg Buttress
388 Curtain Rail IV 4 * 38
389 Mourning Slab
-
VS 2
390 The Blind
-
VS 4b * 3
391 The Curtain IV 5 *** 424
392 Route I VI 6 ** 31
393 Route I
-
S ** 25
394 Route I Direct Start
-
VI 6 * 24
395 PM
-
VS 4c *  
396 Route II Direct VI 6 *** 10
397 Route II Direct
-
S *** 32
398 Dissection
-
HVS 5a 3
399 The Shadow VS 4c ** 10
400 The Shadow
-
VII 6 *** 3
401 The Bullroar HVS 5a *** 68
402 Adrenalin Rush
-
E3 6a  
403 Cowslip
-
E2 5c  
404 Torro E2 5c *** 121
405 Red Rag
-
E2 5c **  
406 Centurion HVS 5a *** 364
407 Centurion (Winter)
-
VIII 8 ** 12
408 King Kong
-
E2 5c *** 55
409 Trajan's Column E6 6b *** 3
410 The Bat
-
E2 5b *** 105
411 The Wicked
-
E6 6b *  
412 Sassenach
-
E1 5b ** 11
413 The Banana Groove
-
E4 6a *** 15
414 Agrippa
-
E5 6b *** 6
415 Caligula E3 5c ** 6
416 Titan's Wall E3 5c *** 54
417 Boadicea E4 6a ** 1
418 Shield Direct VII 7 *** 7
419 Shield Direct
-
HVS 5a ** 4
420 Gemini VI 6 *** 68
421 The Bewildabeast VI 6 *** 7
422 Waterfall Gully IV 4 * 199
423 Waterfall Gully, True Finish VI 6 ** 7
424 The Trial E3 5c ** 3
425 Gemini Direct Finish VI 6 ***  
  North Wall of Carn Dearg
427 Macphee's Route V 6 * 2
428 Kelletts North Wall Route VII 7 ** 2
429 Brave New World
-
IX 8  
430 The Shape of Things to Come
-
IX 9  
431 Chasing the Ephemeral
-
E6 6b 1
  Cousin's Buttress
433 The Shroud VI 6 *** 19
434 Harrison's Climb Direct IV 4 *** 96
435 Cousinade VII 8 ** 3
  Carn Dearg Summit Buttresses
437 Colando Gully I/II * 3
  Raeburn's Buttress
439 Boomer's Requiem V 5 ** 101
440 Raeburn's Buttress IV 5 ** 26
441 The Crack HVS 5a 1
442 The Crack VIII 8 *** 1
443 Teufel Grooves
-
IX 9 ** 1
  Castle Corrie
445 Compression Crack V 5 ** 61
446 South Castle Gully I ** 56
447 Plum Duff V 5 ** 1
448 The Castle III * 28
449 The Castle Direct IV 4 4
450 North Castle Gully II * 62
  Castle Ridge
452 Castle Ridge III ** 500
453 Castle Ridge
-
M ** 333
454 Wandering Mr Sea IV 4 1
  Castle Ridge, North Face
456 The Serpent
-
II * 4
457 The Moat II ** 4
458 Lobby Dancer
-
VI 6 *** 2
459 Nordwand
-
IV 3 ** 28
460 Nordwand direct
-
IV 5 10
461 Alchemist VII 8 ** 1
462 Red Gully * II 1
463 Le Mechant * IV 4  
464 La Petite * III  
465 Le Chat Noir *
-
IV 4  
466 Casino Royale * V 5  
  Glen Nevis (SW) Flank
468 Five Finger Gully
-
IV 4 ** 2
469 Surgeon's Rib 1 3
470 Surgeon's Gully
-
V 5 **  
471 Polldubh Gully
-
IV 5 **  
472 Steal Waterfall
-
III 5
473 Surprise Gully II * 2
474 Waterfall cascade WI-5 *  
475 Take the rack and rope for a walk to the CIC Hut * summit *** 4
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
  Minus Face
  Orion Face & Observatory Ridge
  Tower Ridge East Face
  Trident Buttresses
  Castle Area
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers TonyM and Martin McKenna - UKC