UKC

Climbs 388
Rocktype Andesite
Altitude 1344m a.s.l
Faces NE

Centurion © Guy Robertson

Crag features

Fitting of the highest mountain in Britain, Ben Nevis contains some of the finest mountaineering in the land. Unique winter climbing sought out by mountaineers from all over the world. Fine rock climbs of alpine proportions. It's got it all, just maybe not perfectly predictable weather.

For winter climbing, often at it's best in February and March once the snow has undergone some freeze thaw and the buttresses are generaly nicely rimed. More recently the mixed climbs have gained classic status and come into condition very much earlier. The season is long and the easy gullies often remain complete well into late May.

 

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Approach notes

For accessing the North face there is now a very good path direct to the CIC hut. This is total luxury compared to what went before and has consigned some of the previous horrendously boggy approaches to the annals of history.

If approaching by road, turn off the A82 at Torlundy and head for the signed "North Face Car Park". An excellent path rises through conniferous plantation up to the deer fence. Cross this by a mighty style and follow the good path, rising very gently uphill, keeping the Allt a'Mhuilinn river to your R. A final rise lands one at the CIC hut which is a popular spot to take in the fine view of the ampitheatre of cliffs. This all assumes that it isn't sheeting it down with rain...

Put some fresh 6mm ab tat at top of Douglas Boulder 18/11/2014 and a screwgate. Leave in place as the old stuff is pretty beaten up, could do with a lot of it being cut out and taken down!
Nathan Adam - 28/Nov/14
The abseil post at the top of Coire Leis has been replaced by a cairn. Construction of the cairn to replace the No. 4 gully post (already gone,) is underway. Once finished it should be a 6 foot high, columnar cairn with triangular capstone.
jonnie3430 - 24/Sep/12
Perhaps the best mountain routes in the UK ?
Ben Tye - 16/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Ben Nevis summit
-
summit 1656
2 Carn Dearg
-
summit 105
3 Carn Dearg SW summit 21
4 Meall an t-Suidhe summit 14
  COIRE LEIS
  Little Brenva Face
7 Carn Mor Dearg Arete
-
1 347
8 Carn Mor Dearg Arete I ** 596
9 Final Buttress
-
III 4 15
10 Bob Run
-
II ** 41
11 Moonwalk
-
IV 3 ** 23
12 Cresta
-
III 3 ** 40
13 Cresta Direct
-
IV 4 * 10
14 Slalom
-
III * 8
15 Super G
-
VI 6 ** 2
16 Wall of the Winds VI 5  
17 Frost Bite
-
IV 4 4
18 Isandhlwana
-
V 5 ** 2
19 Route Major
-
IV 4 *** 11
20 Right Major IV 6 * 1
21 The Eastern Climb
-
S * 1
  North East Buttress
23 North East Buttress
-
VD *** 244
24 North East Buttress IV 4 *** 425
25 The Lime Green Gaiter
-
V 6 * 1
26 Newbigging's 80 Minute Route
-
IV 4 1
27 Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Right Hand Variation
-
V 6  
28 Orient Express
-
E2 5c  
29 Orient Express IX 8 ** 1
30 Steam Train
-
HVS 5a  
31 Steam Train
-
VI 7 * 2
32 Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Far Right Variation
-
VD * 4
33 Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Far Right Variation
-
IV 4 5
  OBSERVATORY GULLY
  First Platform
36 Raeburns Arete S ** 118
37 Raeburn's Arete
-
V 6 ** 4
38 Green Hollow Route
-
IV 4 * 2
39 Bayonet Route
-
HS ** 11
40 Bayonet Route
-
IV 4 1
41 Ruddy Rocks
-
VD 4
42 Ruddy Rocks
-
IV 4  
43 Slingsby's Chimney
-
II * 95
  Minus Three Buttress
45 Slab and Rib Variation
-
IV 5 * 6
46 Right-Hand Wall Route
-
IV 5 * 3
47 Right-Hand Wall Route Direct Finish
-
V 4 2
48 Wagroochimsia
-
IV 5 1
49 Platform Rib
-
IV 4 ** 9
50 Minus Three Gully
-
IV 5 *** 57
  Minus Two Buttress
52 Left-hand Route
-
VS 4b * 16
53 Left-Hand Route (Minus Two Buttress)
-
VI 6 ** 5
54 Central Route
-
VI 7 1
55 Central Route
-
HVS 5a *  
56 Right-Hand Route
-
VS 4b ** 1
57 Right-Hand Route
-
VI 6 * 2
58 Long Division
-
E1 5b * 2
59 Minus Two Buttress
-
V 5 * 3
60 Minus Two Gully V 6 *** 115
61 Left Edge Variation - Left Hand Route * VS 4c *** 3
  Minus One Buttress
63 Minus One Direct E1 5b *** 97
64 Minus One Direct
-
VIII 8 *** 1
65 Minus One Buttress
-
VII 6 *** 2
66 Minus One Gully VI 6 *** 63
67 Minus One Gully Direct Finish
-
V 5 ** 1
  Orion Face
69 Dark Star VI 5 *** 1
70 Astronomy
-
VI 5 *** 1
71 Astronomy Direct Finish
-
VI 5 ** 3
72 Astronomy
-
VS * 1
73 Smith-Holt Route V 5 ** 9
74 The Long Climb VS *** 90
75 The Long Climb Finish VII 6 *** 8
76 Orion Face Direct
-
V 5 *** 323
77 Orion Direct - Tower Variations VI 5 *** 20
78 Zybernaught VI 6 ** 2
79 Astral Highway
-
VI 5 ** 56
80 Space Walk
-
VII 6 * 3
81 Orion Directissima VI 5 ** 19
82 Slav Route
-
VI 5 *** 39
83 Orion Grooves VI 5 * 1
84 Zero Gully
-
V 4 *** 241
  Observatory Ridge
86 Observatory Ridge (Summer)
-
VD *** 277
87 Observatory Ridge
-
V 4 *** 163
  Observatory Ridge West Face
89 Abacus
-
IV 4 ** 2
90 Vade Mecum
-
V 5 *** 11
91 Hadrian's Wall Direct
-
V 5 *** 338
92 Sickle
-
V 5 *** 72
93 Galactic Hitchhiker
-
VI 5 *** 7
94 Pointless VII 6 *** 1
95 Interstellar Overdrive
-
VI 6 *** 1
96 Point Five Gully V 5 *** 720
  Observatory Buttress
98 Point Blank VII 6 1
99 Left Edge Route
-
V 5 *** 9
100 Appointment with Fear
-
VII 6 *  
101 Match Point VI 5 ** 2
102 Rubicon Wall S * 2
103 Rubicon Wall
-
VI 5 *** 19
104 Observatory Buttress (Summer)
-
VD * 11
105 Observatory Buttress
-
V 4 *** 105
106 Observatory Buttress Direct Finish V 5 ** 11
107 North-West Face V 5 * 1
  Indicator Wall
109 Good Friday Climb
-
III *** 281
110 Good Friday Climb (Direct Finish) III 4 34
111 Indicator Wall
-
V 4 *** 175
112 Indicator Right-Hand
-
V 5 *** 79
113 Riders on the Storm
-
VI 5 *** 10
114 Ship of Fools VIII 7 1
115 Arctic Tern VII 5 1
116 Albatross VI 5 *** 10
117 The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner Direct VII 7 *** 2
118 Call Me Ishmael VIII 9 *** 1
119 Psychedelic Wall
-
VI 5 *** 51
120 Satanic Verses
-
VI 5 *** 12
121 Shot in the Dark
-
V 5 ** 6
122 Caledonia
-
V 5 ** 4
123 Shot in the Back IV 4 * 1
124 Shot in the Foot V 4 5
125 Gardyloo Gully II/III * 259
  Gardyloo Buttress
127 Left Edge Route (Gardyloo Buttress)
-
VI 5 1
128 Kellett's Route VI 6 *** 16
129 Smith's Route
-
V 5 *** 301
130 The Great Glen VI 5 * 3
131 Right Edge IV 4 2
132 Tower Gully I 241
133 Upper Tower Cascade LH
-
III 13
134 Upper Tower Cascade RH
-
III 7
135 Optimist's ArĂȘte V 6 * 1
  TOWER RIDGE AREA
  Tower Ridge, East Flank
138 Tower Scoop III ** 435
139 Tower Cleft
-
III * 9
140 Clefthanger VII 7 ** 1
141 Frosty's Vigil VIII 8 ** 2
142 Faith Healer VIII 7 * 1
143 Echo Traverse (Direct Icefall Star / Wet Spring Start) V 6 * 2
144 Goodeve's Route
-
III 3
145 The Brass Monkey VII 8 *** 3
Climb name Grade
146 The Great Chimney
-
IV 5 ** 16
147 Chimney Groove IV 6 2
148 Alaska Highway IV 1
  Tower Ridge
150 Tower Ridge
-
D *** 1335
151 Great Tower Variation: Ogilvy's Route VD 2
152 Great Tower Variation: Bell's Route VD 3
153 Tower Ridge IV 3 *** 1336
  Douglas Boulder
155 Douglas Gap East Gully
-
I 153
156 East Ridge IV 5 24
157 Direct Route VD ** 174
158 Direct Route
-
IV 4 * 12
159 Direct Route II
-
S * 13
160 Down to the Wire V 6 1
161 North-West Face Route
-
V 5 6
162 Militant Chimney VI 6 3
163 Turf War V 6 *** 3
164 Left Hand Chimney V 6 * 2
165 Gutless IV 5 24
166 Rutless VII 8 ** 1
167 Cutlass
-
VI 7 * 67
168 Cutlass
-
VS 4b * 3
169 Jacknife V 6 45
170 South West Ridge M * 11
171 South-West Ridge IV 5 ** 244
172 Douglas Gap West Gully
-
I * 149
  Secondary Tower Ridge
174 Fawlty Towers III * 118
175 Breaking Good II * 2
176 1934 Route
-
II/III ** 42
177 Vagabond's Rib S 1
178 Vanishing Gully
-
V 5 *** 302
179 Fatboy Slim
-
VI 6 * 3
180 Italian Climb
-
III * 41
181 Italian Right-Hand
-
IV 4 ** 148
182 The Chute
-
V 4 * 2
  GARADH NA CISTE
184 Garadh Gully II * 243
185 Garadh Buttress II * 3
186 Thea III * 2
187 Crying Out Loud IV 5 * 2
188 Aquatherapy * III 1
189 Broad Gully
-
II 14
  Pinnacle Buttress of the Tower
191 Stringfellow
-
VI 6 *** 19
192 Smooth Operator VI 7 2
193 Pinnacle Buttress Direct
-
V 5 ** 4
194 Glovers Chimney
-
III 4 *** 328
  Goodeve's Buttress
196 The Gutter IV 4 *** 16
197 The White Line
-
III ** 115
198 Beam Me Up Scotty
-
III *  
  Raeburn's Wall
200 The Blue Horizon
-
IV 4 1
201 La Panthere Rose VI 6 * 3
202 Expert's Choice III ** 31
203 Raeburn's Easy Route
-
II *** 154
204 Raeburn's not so Easy III 4 17
205 The Cascade
-
IV 5 ** 87
  Coire na Ciste
  Number Two Gully Buttress
208 Five Finger Discount
-
IV 4 12
209 Burrito's Groove
-
IV 5 ** 9
210 JP Is Back
-
IV 4 * 5
211 BD was Here III * 3
212 Number Two Gully Buttress
-
III *** 109
213 Number Two Gully II *** 501
  Comb Gully Buttress
215 Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - Left V 6  
216 Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - Right IV 4  
217 Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - Rightmost IV 4 1
218 Comb Gully Buttress
-
IV 4 ** 63
219 Comb Gully Buttress - Annick Exit IV 5 2
220 Comb Gully Buttress - Icicle Finish V 5 * 4
221 Clough's Chimney
-
VI 6 * 5
222 Roaring Forties
-
V 5 ** 3
223 Big Bad Ben
-
VII 7  
224 Comb Gully
-
IV 4 *** 561
  The Comb
226 The Comb - Left Flank IV 4 * 2
227 Hesperides Ledge
-
III ** 4
228 The Good Groove
-
VII 7 **  
229 Quisling Wall
-
VI 6 *  
230 Lost Souls
-
VI 6 2
231 Tower Face of the Comb
-
VI 6 *** 54
232 Anubis XII 12 ***  
233 Anubis E8 6c ***  
234 Don't Die of Ignorance
-
XI 11 3
235 Pigott's Route
-
V 6 * 2
236 Mercury
-
V 5 ** 5
237 Green Gully
-
IV 3 *** 826
  Number Three Gully Buttress
239 Venus
-
V 5 *  
240 Aphrodite
-
IV 4 ** 9
241 Tramp
-
IV 4 * 1
242 Diana
-
V 5 ** 17
243 Vulture
-
V 5 **  
244 Number Three Gully Buttress
-
III *** 350
245 Number Three Gully Buttress Direct Finish IV 5 * 18
246 Quickstep
-
V 5 * 21
247 Boston Two Step
-
VI 6 * 1
248 Two-Step Corner
-
V 5 ** 129
249 Arthur VIII 8 ** 2
250 Knuckleduster
-
VIII 9 2
251 Knuckleduster
-
HVS 5a **  
252 Knuckleduster Direct VIII 9 ** 2
253 Curly's Arete VIII 8 * 1
254 Sioux Wall
-
VIII 8 36
255 Sioux Wall
-
HVS 5a ** 2
256 Tomahawk Crack VIII 9 *** 4
257 Apache VIII 8 ** 4
258 Thompson's Route IV 4 *** 205
259 Gremlins
-
VI 6 ** 4
260 Gargoyle Wall
-
VI 6 *** 83
261 Hobgoblin
-
VI 7 ** 9
262 Babylon
-
VII 8 ** 27
263 Hanging Garden VII 8 ** 2
264 Collaboration VI 7 **  
265 Snuff Wall VIII 8 1
266 Sake VIII 9 ** 3
267 Winter Chimney
-
V 5 ** 13
268 El Nino III 4 2
269 Winter Cascade IV 5 * 15
270 Number Three Gully
-
I ** 360
271 Number Three Gully (Variation finish)
-
II 12
  Creag Coire na Ciste
273 To Those Who Wait IX 9 *** 1
274 The Secret VIII 9 *** 13
275 Catriona VIII 8 1
276 Cornucopia VII 9 ** 6
277 Darth Vader
-
VII 8 *** 46
278 Han Solo VIII 7 ** 1
279 Storm Trooper
-
VIII 8  
280 Arch Angel
-
VII 7 ** 1
281 Avenging Angel Direct VIII 8 6
282 South Sea Bubble
-
VII 6 **  
283 South Gully III * 56
284 Lost The Place
-
V 5 *** 40
285 Une Journee Ordinaire
-
V 6 ** 7
286 Levitation
-
VI 6 * 1
287 Central Gully, Creag Coire na Ciste III 4 ** 76
288 Central Gully Right-Hand
-
IV 4 *** 166
289 Wendigo
-
IV 4 ** 39
290 Place Your Bets
-
VI 6 ** 1
Climb name Grade
291 North Gully II 199
292 North Gully - The Left Fork IV 5 ** 5
293 The Gift III 4 15
294 Four Play IV 4 4
295 Number Four Gully
-
I ** 600
296 Number Four Gully Buttress 3 3
297 Fore 'n' Daft * IV 4 * 1
  South Trident Buttress
299 1944 Route
-
S * 9
300 The Minge VII 8 ** 1
301 Tangerine Dreams VII 8 ** 2
302 The Groove Climb
-
V 6 * 4
303 Sidewinder
-
HVS 5a ** 10
304 Sidewinder VII 8 ** 16
305 Strident Edge
-
VS 4c ** 13
306 Strident Edge (winter) VI 7 *** 11
307 String Vest Theory VII 8 * 2
308 Devastation
-
E1 5b ** 1
309 Devastation (Winter) VII 8 ** 4
310 Spartacus
-
VS 4c  
311 Spartacus Winter VI 7  
312 The Slab Climb
-
S * 1
313 The Slab Climb VI 7 ** 33
314 The Clanger
-
IV 5 ** 11
315 Pinnacle Arete
-
IV 4 * 13
316 Pinnacle Arete
-
VD ** 12
317 Joyful Chimneys IV 4 4
318 Central Gully, South Trident Buttress III * 20
319 Nasturtium IV 4 * 6
320 Morton's Neuroma V 5 * 3
321 Jubilation
-
IV 4 * 16
322 Poseidon Groove
-
IV 5 3
  Jubilee Buttress
324 Jubilee Climb
-
VD  
325 Jubilee Climb
-
II 12
326 Mega Reve
-
VI 6 *  
  Central Trident Buttress
328 Steam
-
HVS 5a * 2
329 Feeding Frenzy
-
VI 7 *  
330 Mega Route X
-
V 6 *** 38
331 Heidbanger E1 5b * 5
332 Heidbanger (Winter) VIII 8 * 2
333 Metamorphosis E2 5b ** 3
  North Trident Buttress
335 Neptune Gully
-
III 26
336 North Trident Buttress
-
III ** 27
337 Moonlight Gully
-
II * 59
  Moonlight Gully Buttress
339 Fifties Revival IV 6 1
340 Diagonal Route III 17
341 The Big Cheese VIII 8 ** 3
342 Right-Hand Chimney, Moonlight Gully Buttress
-
IV 4 ** 22
343 Phosphorescent Grooves III 4 * 2
344 Take Off IV 5 1
345 Number Five Gully
-
I ** 189
346 Gaslight * IV 5  
347 Moonlight Arete * IV 5  
  Number Five Gully Buttress
349 Free Range VII 7 *** 3
350 Ledge Route
-
II *** 1317
351 Ledge Route 2 *** 459
  CARN DEARG, BEN NEVIS
  Cairn Dearg Cascade
354 Carn Dearg Cascade / CIC Icefall V 5 *** 59
355 Carn Dearg Right Cascade / CIC Icefall IV 4 * 78
  Carn Dearg Buttress
357 Curtain Rail IV 4 * 33
358 Mourning Slab
-
VS  
359 The Blind
-
VS 4b *  
360 The Curtain
-
IV 5 *** 371
361 Route I
-
VI 6 *** 26
362 Route I
-
S ** 22
363 Route I Direct Start
-
VI 6 * 21
364 PM
-
VS 4c *  
365 Route II Direct
-
VI 6 *** 8
366 Route II Direct
-
S *** 25
367 Dissection
-
HVS 5a  
368 The Shadow VS 4c ** 7
369 The Shadow
-
VII 6 *** 3
370 The Bullroar HVS 5a *** 62
371 Adrenalin Rush
-
E3 6a  
372 Cowslip
-
E2 5c  
373 Torro E2 5c *** 114
374 Red Rag
-
E2 5c **  
375 Centurion HVS 5a *** 336
376 Centurion (Winter)
-
VIII 8 ** 9
377 King Kong
-
E2 5c *** 48
378 Trajan's Column E6 6b ***  
379 The Bat
-
E2 5b *** 91
380 The Wicked
-
E6 6b *  
381 Sassenach
-
E1 5b ** 7
382 The Banana Groove
-
E4 6a *** 12
383 Agrippa
-
E5 6b *** 5
384 Caligula E3 5c ** 6
385 Titan's Wall E3 5c *** 49
386 Boadicea E4 6a ** 1
387 Shield Direct VII 7 *** 5
388 Shield Direct
-
HVS 5a ** 3
389 Gemini VI 6 *** 58
390 The Bewildabeast VI 6 *** 7
391 Waterfall Gully
-
IV 4 * 175
392 Waterfall Gully, True Finish
-
VI 6 ** 7
393 The Trial E3 5c ** 3
  North Wall of Carn Dearg
395 Macphee's Route V 6 * 2
396 Kelletts North Wall Route VII 7 ** 1
  Cousin's Buttress
398 The Shroud
-
VI 6 ** 15
399 Harrison's Climb Direct
-
IV 4 *** 89
400 Cousinade VII 8 ** 3
  Carn Dearg Summit Buttresses
402 Colando Gully I/II * 3
  Raeburn's Buttress
404 Boomer's Requiem
-
V 5 *** 96
405 Raeburn's Buttress
-
IV 5 ** 25
406 The Crack HVS 5a 1
407 The Crack VIII 8 *** 1
408 Teufel Grooves
-
IX 9 ** 1
  Castle Corrie
410 Compression Crack
-
V 5 ** 61
411 South Castle Gully
-
II * 53
412 Plum Duff V 5 ** 1
413 The Castle
-
III * 28
414 The Castle Direct IV 4 2
415 North Castle Gully
-
II * 57
  Castle Ridge
417 Castle Ridge III ** 440
418 Castle Ridge
-
M ** 267
419 Wandering Mr Sea * IV 4 1
  Castle Ridge, North Face
421 The Serpent
-
II * 4
422 The Moat II ** 4
423 Lobby Dancer
-
VI 6 *** 2
424 Nordwand
-
IV 3 ** 27
425 Nordwand direct
-
IV 5 7
426 Alchemist VII 8 ** 1
  Glen Nevis (SW) Flank
428 Five Finger Gully
-
IV 4 ** 2
429 Surgeon's Rib 1 3
430 Surgeon's Gully
-
V 5 **  
431 Polldubh Gully
-
IV 5 **  
432 Steal Waterfall
-
III 5
433 Surprise Gully II * 2
434 Waterfall cascade WI-5 *  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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