Climbs 401
Rocktype Andesite
Altitude 1344m a.s.l
Faces all

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Centurion © Guy Robertson

Crag features

Fitting of the highest mountain in Britain, Ben Nevis contains some of the finest mountaineering in the land. Unique winter climbing sought out by mountaineers from all over the world. Fine rock climbs of alpine proportions. It's got it all, just maybe not perfectly predictable weather.

For winter climbing, often at it's best in February and March once the snow has undergone some freeze thaw and the buttresses are generaly nicely rimed. More recently the mixed climbs have gained classic status and come into condition very much earlier. The season is long and the easy gullies often remain complete well into late May.

 

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Approach notes

For accessing the North face there is now a very good path direct to the CIC hut. This is total luxury compared to what went before and has consigned some of the previous horrendously boggy approaches to the annals of history.

If approaching by road, turn off the A82 at Torlundy and head for the signed 'North Face Car Park'. An excellent path rises through conniferous plantation up to the deer fence. Cross this by a mighty style and follow the good path, rising very gently uphill, keeping the Allt a'Mhuilinn river to your right. A final rise lands one at the CIC hut which is a popular spot to take in the fine view of the ampitheatre of cliffs. This all assumes that it isn't sheeting it down with rain.

Put some fresh 6mm ab tat at top of Douglas Boulder 18/11/2014 and a screwgate. Leave in place as the old stuff is pretty beaten up, could do with a lot of it being cut out and taken down!
Nathan Adam - 28/Nov/14
The abseil post at the top of Coire Leis has been replaced by a cairn. Construction of the cairn to replace the No. 4 gully post (already gone,) is underway. Once finished it should be a 6 foot high, columnar cairn with triangular capstone.
jonnie3430 - 24/Sep/12
Perhaps the best mountain routes in the UK ?
Ben Tye - 16/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Ben Nevis summit
-
summit 1837
2 Carn Dearg
-
summit 119
3 Carn Dearg SW summit 24
4 Meall an t-Suidhe summit 15
  COIRE LEIS
  Little Brenva Face
7 Carn Mor Dearg Arete
-
1 407
8 Carn Mor Dearg Arete I ** 665
9 Final Buttress
-
III 4 16
10 Bob Run
-
II ** 47
11 Moonwalk
-
IV 3 ** 23
12 Cresta
-
III 3 ** 42
13 Cresta Direct
-
IV 4 * 10
14 Slalom
-
III * 8
15 Super G
-
VI 6 ** 2
16 Wall of the Winds VI 5  
17 Frost Bite
-
IV 4 5
18 Isandhlwana
-
V 5 ** 2
19 Route Major
-
IV 4 *** 11
20 Right Major IV 6 * 1
21 The Eastern Climb
-
S * 1
  North East Buttress
23 North East Buttress
-
VD *** 277
24 North East Buttress IV 4 *** 445
25 The Lime Green Gaiter
-
V 6 * 1
26 Newbigging's 80 Minute Route
-
IV 4 1
27 Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Right Hand Variation
-
V 6  
28 Orient Express
-
E2 5c  
29 Orient Express IX 8 ** 1
30 Steam Train
-
HVS 5a  
31 Steam Train
-
VI 7 * 2
32 Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Far Right Variation
-
VD * 4
33 Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Far Right Variation
-
IV 4 5
  OBSERVATORY GULLY
  First Platform
36 Raeburns Arete S ** 136
37 Raeburn's Arete
-
V 6 ** 4
38 Green Hollow Route
-
IV 4 * 2
39 Bayonet Route
-
HS ** 11
40 Bayonet Route
-
IV 4 1
41 Ruddy Rocks
-
VD 4
42 Ruddy Rocks
-
IV 4  
43 Slingsby's Chimney
-
II * 96
  Minus Three Buttress
45 Slab and Rib Variation
-
IV 5 * 6
46 Right-Hand Wall Route
-
IV 5 * 3
47 Right-Hand Wall Route Direct Finish
-
V 4 2
48 Wagroochimsia
-
IV 5 1
49 Platform Rib
-
IV 4 ** 9
50 Minus Three Gully
-
IV 5 *** 57
  Minus Two Buttress
52 Left-hand Route
-
VS 4b * 16
53 Left-Hand Route (Minus Two Buttress)
-
VI 6 ** 6
54 Central Route
-
VI 7 1
55 Central Route
-
HVS 5a *  
56 Right-Hand Route
-
VS 4b ** 1
57 Right-Hand Route
-
VI 6 * 2
58 Long Division
-
E1 5b * 3
59 Minus Two Buttress
-
V 5 * 3
60 Minus Two Gully V 6 *** 119
61 Left Edge Variation - Left Hand Route VS 4c *** 3
  Minus One Buttress
63 Minus One Direct E1 5b *** 107
64 Minus One Direct
-
VIII 8 *** 1
65 Minus One Buttress
-
VII 6 *** 2
66 Minus One Gully VI 6 *** 66
67 Minus One Gully Direct Finish
-
V 5 ** 1
  Orion Face
69 Dark Star VI 5 *** 1
70 Astronomy
-
VI 5 *** 1
71 Astronomy Direct Finish
-
VI 5 ** 3
72 Astronomy
-
VS * 1
73 Smith-Holt Route V 5 ** 10
74 The Long Climb VS *** 93
75 The Long Climb Finish VII 6 *** 8
76 Orion Face Direct
-
V 5 *** 333
77 Orion Direct - Tower Variations VI 5 *** 21
78 Zybernaught VI 6 ** 2
79 Astral Highway
-
VI 5 ** 59
80 Space Walk
-
VII 6 * 3
81 Orion Directissima VI 5 ** 21
82 Slav Route
-
VI 5 *** 40
83 Orion Grooves VI 5 * 1
84 Zero Gully
-
V 4 *** 244
  Observatory Ridge
86 Observatory Ridge (Summer)
-
VD *** 315
87 Observatory Ridge
-
V 4 *** 177
  Observatory Ridge West Face
89 Abacus
-
IV 4 ** 2
90 Vade Mecum
-
V 5 *** 13
91 Hadrian's Wall Direct
-
V 5 *** 346
92 Sickle
-
V 5 *** 75
93 Galactic Hitchhiker
-
VI 5 *** 10
94 Pointless VII 6 *** 1
95 Interstellar Overdrive
-
VI 6 *** 1
96 Point Five Gully V 5 *** 737
  Observatory Buttress
98 Point Blank VII 6 1
99 Left Edge Route
-
V 5 *** 10
100 Appointment with Fear
-
VII 6 *  
101 Match Point VI 5 ** 2
102 Rubicon Wall S * 2
103 Rubicon Wall
-
VI 5 *** 19
104 Observatory Buttress (Summer)
-
VD * 11
105 Observatory Buttress
-
V 4 *** 109
106 Observatory Buttress Direct Finish V 5 ** 11
107 North-West Face V 5 * 1
  Indicator Wall
109 Good Friday Climb
-
III *** 291
110 Good Friday Climb (Direct Finish) III 4 35
111 Indicator Wall
-
V 4 *** 178
112 Indicator Right-Hand
-
V 5 *** 80
113 Riders on the Storm
-
VI 5 *** 13
114 Ship of Fools VIII 7 1
115 Arctic Tern VII 5 1
116 Albatross VI 5 *** 12
117 The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner Direct VII 7 *** 3
118 Call Me Ishmael VIII 9 *** 1
119 Psychedelic Wall
-
VI 5 *** 53
120 Satanic Verses
-
VI 5 *** 12
121 Shot in the Dark
-
V 5 ** 6
122 Caledonia
-
V 5 ** 5
123 Shot in the Back IV 4 * 1
124 Shot in the Foot V 4 5
125 Gardyloo Gully II/III * 281
  Gardyloo Buttress
127 Left Edge Route (Gardyloo Buttress)
-
VI 5 1
128 Kellett's Route VI 6 *** 17
129 Smith's Route
-
V 5 *** 312
130 The Great Glen VI 5 * 3
131 Right Edge IV 4 2
132 Tower Gully I 249
133 Upper Tower Cascade LH
-
III 13
134 Upper Tower Cascade RH
-
III 7
135 Optimist's ArĂȘte V 6 * 1
  TOWER RIDGE AREA
  Tower Ridge, East Flank
138 Tower Scoop III ** 443
139 Tower Cleft
-
III * 9
140 Clefthanger VII 7 ** 1
141 Frosty's Vigil VIII 8 ** 2
142 Faith Healer VIII 7 * 1
143 Echo Traverse (Direct Icefall Star / Wet Spring Start) V 6 * 2
144 Goodeve's Route
-
III 3
145 The Brass Monkey VII 8 *** 3
146 The Great Chimney
-
IV 5 ** 17
147 Chimney Groove IV 6 2
148 Alaska Highway IV 1
149 Night Fury
-
IX 9  
Climb name Grade
150 Echo Wall none  
  Tower Ridge
152 Tower Ridge
-
D *** 1511
153 Great Tower Variation: Ogilvy's Route VD 2
154 Great Tower Variation: Bell's Route VD 3
155 Tower Ridge IV 3 *** 1432
  Douglas Boulder
157 Douglas Gap East Gully
-
I 170
158 East Ridge IV 5 28
159 Direct Route VD ** 192
160 Direct Route
-
IV 4 * 14
161 Direct Route II
-
S * 13
162 Down to the Wire V 6 1
163 North-West Face Route
-
V 5 7
164 Militant Chimney VI 6 3
165 Turf War V 6 *** 5
166 Left Hand Chimney V 6 * 2
167 Gutless IV 5 24
168 Rutless VII 8 ** 1
169 Cutlass
-
VI 7 * 80
170 Cutlass
-
VS 4b * 3
171 Jacknife V 6 56
172 South West Ridge M * 14
173 South-West Ridge IV 5 ** 285
174 Douglas Gap West Gully
-
I * 167
  Secondary Tower Ridge
176 Fawlty Towers III * 125
177 Breaking Good II * 3
178 1934 Route
-
II/III ** 46
179 Vagabond's Rib S 1
180 Vanishing Gully
-
V 5 *** 305
181 Fatboy Slim
-
VI 6 * 3
182 Italian Climb
-
III * 43
183 Italian Right-Hand
-
IV 4 ** 153
184 The Chute
-
V 4 * 2
185 No Success Like Failure
-
IX 8  
  GARADH NA CISTE
187 Garadh Gully II * 249
188 Garadh Buttress II * 3
189 Thea III * 2
190 Crying Out Loud IV 5 * 2
191 Aquatherapy III 1
192 Broad Gully
-
II 14
  Pinnacle Buttress of the Tower
194 Stringfellow
-
VI 6 *** 20
195 Smooth Operator VI 7 2
196 Pinnacle Buttress Direct
-
V 5 ** 4
197 Glovers Chimney
-
III 4 *** 333
198 Pinnacle Buttress of the Tower *
-
VD *  
  Goodeve's Buttress
200 The Gutter IV 4 *** 18
201 The White Line
-
III ** 116
202 Beam Me Up Scotty
-
III *  
  Raeburn's Wall
204 The Blue Horizon
-
IV 4 1
205 La Panthere Rose VI 6 * 3
206 Expert's Choice III ** 33
207 Raeburn's Easy Route
-
II *** 159
208 Raeburn's not so Easy III 4 18
209 The Cascade
-
IV 5 ** 91
  Coire na Ciste
  Number Two Gully Buttress
212 Five Finger Discount
-
IV 4 13
213 Burrito's Groove
-
IV 5 ** 9
214 JP Is Back
-
IV 4 * 5
215 BD was Here III * 3
216 Number Two Gully Buttress
-
III *** 116
217 Number Two Gully II *** 533
  Comb Gully Buttress
219 Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - Left V 6 1
220 Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - Right IV 4 2
221 Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - Rightmost IV 4 1
222 Comb Gully Buttress
-
IV 4 ** 64
223 Comb Gully Buttress - Annick Exit IV 5 2
224 Comb Gully Buttress - Icicle Finish V 5 * 3
225 Clough's Chimney
-
VI 6 * 7
226 Roaring Forties
-
V 5 ** 4
227 Big Bad Ben
-
VII 7  
228 Comb Gully
-
IV 4 *** 580
  The Comb
230 The Comb - Left Flank IV 4 * 2
231 Hesperides Ledge
-
III ** 4
232 The Good Groove
-
VII 7 **  
233 Quisling Wall
-
VI 6 *  
234 Lost Souls
-
VI 6 2
235 Tower Face of the Comb
-
VI 6 *** 60
236 Anubis XII 12 *** 1
237 Anubis E8 6c ***  
238 Don't Die of Ignorance
-
XI 11 3
239 Pigott's Route
-
V 6 * 2
240 Mercury
-
V 5 ** 5
241 Green Gully
-
IV 3 *** 850
242 Mr Fahrenheit * E7 6b ***  
  Number Three Gully Buttress
244 Venus
-
V 5 *  
245 Aphrodite
-
IV 4 ** 9
246 Tramp
-
IV 4 * 1
247 Diana
-
V 5 ** 18
248 Vulture
-
V 5 **  
249 Number Three Gully Buttress
-
III *** 380
250 Number Three Gully Buttress Direct Finish IV 5 * 32
251 Quickstep
-
V 5 * 24
252 Boston Two Step
-
VI 6 * 1
253 Two-Step Corner
-
V 5 ** 131
254 Arthur VIII 8 ** 2
255 Knuckleduster
-
VIII 9 2
256 Knuckleduster
-
HVS 5a **  
257 Knuckleduster Direct VIII 9 ** 2
258 Curly's Arete VIII 8 * 1
259 Sioux Wall
-
VIII 8 41
260 Sioux Wall
-
HVS 5a ** 3
261 Tomahawk Crack VIII 9 *** 4
262 Apache VIII 8 ** 4
263 Thompson's Route IV 4 *** 214
264 Gremlins
-
VI 6 ** 4
265 Gargoyle Wall
-
VI 6 *** 99
266 Hobgoblin
-
VI 7 ** 9
267 Babylon
-
VII 8 ** 30
268 Hanging Garden VII 8 ** 4
269 Collaboration VI 7 **  
270 Snuff Wall VIII 8 1
271 Sake VIII 9 ** 3
272 Winter Chimney
-
V 5 ** 14
273 El Nino III 4 2
274 MVG III 2
275 Cherry on Top Finish III 5 1
276 Winter Cascade IV 5 * 15
277 Number Three Gully
-
I ** 399
278 Number Three Gully (Variation finish)
-
II 14
  Creag Coire na Ciste
280 To Those Who Wait IX 9 *** 1
281 The Secret VIII 9 *** 15
282 Catriona VIII 8 1
283 Cornucopia VII 9 ** 8
284 Darth Vader
-
VII 8 *** 53
285 Han Solo VIII 7 ** 1
286 Storm Trooper
-
VIII 8  
287 Arch Angel
-
VII 7 ** 1
288 Avenging Angel Direct VIII 8 6
289 South Sea Bubble
-
VII 6 **  
290 South Gully III * 60
291 Lost The Place
-
V 5 *** 50
292 The Sorcerer VII 8 ** 1
293 Une Journee Ordinaire
-
V 6 ** 7
294 Levitation
-
VI 6 * 1
295 Central Gully, Creag Coire na Ciste III 4 ** 82
296 Central Gully Right-Hand
-
IV 4 *** 181
297 Wendigo
-
IV 4 ** 41
298 Place Your Bets
-
VI 6 ** 1
Climb name Grade
299 North Gully II 205
300 North Gully - The Left Fork IV 5 ** 5
301 The Gift III 4 15
302 Four Play IV 4 4
303 Fore 'n' Daft IV 4 * 1
304 Number Four Gully
-
I ** 655
305 Number Four Gully Buttress 3 3
  South Trident Buttress
307 1944 Route
-
S * 9
308 The Minge VII 8 ** 1
309 Tangerine Dreams VII 8 ** 2
310 The Groove Climb
-
V 6 * 4
311 Sidewinder
-
HVS 5a ** 10
312 Sidewinder VII 8 ** 16
313 Strident Edge
-
VS 4c ** 14
314 Strident Edge (winter) VI 7 *** 11
315 String Vest Theory VII 8 * 2
316 Devastation
-
E1 5b ** 1
317 Devastation (Winter) VII 8 ** 4
318 Spartacus
-
VS 4c  
319 Spartacus Winter VI 7  
320 The Slab Climb
-
S * 1
321 The Slab Climb VI 7 ** 36
322 The Clanger
-
IV 5 ** 11
323 Pinnacle Arete
-
IV 4 * 15
324 Pinnacle Arete
-
VD ** 12
325 Joyful Chimneys IV 4 4
326 Central Gully, South Trident Buttress III * 20
327 Nasturtium IV 4 * 6
328 Morton's Neuroma V 5 * 3
329 Jubilation
-
IV 4 * 16
330 Poseidon Groove
-
IV 5 4
  Jubilee Buttress
332 Jubilee Climb
-
VD  
333 Jubilee Climb
-
II 12
334 Mega Reve
-
VI 6 *  
  Central Trident Buttress
336 Steam
-
HVS 5a * 2
337 Feeding Frenzy
-
VI 7 *  
338 Mega Route X
-
V 6 *** 41
339 Heidbanger E1 5b * 5
340 Heidbanger (Winter) VIII 8 * 2
341 Metamorphosis E2 5b ** 3
  North Trident Buttress
343 Neptune Gully
-
III 26
344 North Trident Buttress
-
III ** 27
345 Moonlight Gully
-
II * 62
  Moonlight Gully Buttress
347 Fifties Revival IV 6 2
348 Diagonal Route III 19
349 The Big Cheese VIII 8 ** 3
350 Right-Hand Chimney, Moonlight Gully Buttress
-
IV 4 ** 23
351 Phosphorescent Grooves III 4 * 2
352 Take Off IV 5 1
353 Number Five Gully
-
I ** 193
354 Gaslight IV 5  
355 Moonlight Arete IV 5  
356 Right-Hand Chimney, Moonlight Gully Buttress * VD 2
  Number Five Gully Buttress
358 Free Range VII 7 *** 3
359 Ledge Route
-
II *** 1411
360 Ledge Route 2 *** 523
  CARN DEARG, BEN NEVIS
  Cairn Dearg Cascade
363 Carn Dearg Cascade / CIC Icefall V 5 *** 61
364 Carn Dearg Right Cascade / CIC Icefall IV 4 * 80
  Carn Dearg Buttress
366 Curtain Rail IV 4 * 33
367 Mourning Slab
-
VS 2
368 The Blind
-
VS 4b *  
369 The Curtain
-
IV 5 *** 388
370 Route I
-
VI 6 *** 29
371 Route I
-
S ** 22
372 Route I Direct Start
-
VI 6 * 24
373 PM
-
VS 4c *  
374 Route II Direct
-
VI 6 *** 9
375 Route II Direct
-
S *** 29
376 Dissection
-
HVS 5a  
377 The Shadow VS 4c ** 7
378 The Shadow
-
VII 6 *** 3
379 The Bullroar HVS 5a *** 64
380 Adrenalin Rush
-
E3 6a  
381 Cowslip
-
E2 5c  
382 Torro E2 5c *** 121
383 Red Rag
-
E2 5c **  
384 Centurion HVS 5a *** 359
385 Centurion (Winter)
-
VIII 8 ** 11
386 King Kong
-
E2 5c *** 52
387 Trajan's Column E6 6b *** 3
388 The Bat
-
E2 5b *** 97
389 The Wicked
-
E6 6b *  
390 Sassenach
-
E1 5b ** 8
391 The Banana Groove
-
E4 6a *** 14
392 Agrippa
-
E5 6b *** 6
393 Caligula E3 5c ** 6
394 Titan's Wall E3 5c *** 52
395 Boadicea E4 6a ** 1
396 Shield Direct VII 7 *** 7
397 Shield Direct
-
HVS 5a ** 4
398 Gemini VI 6 *** 60
399 The Bewildabeast VI 6 *** 7
400 Waterfall Gully
-
IV 4 * 185
401 Waterfall Gully, True Finish
-
VI 6 ** 7
402 The Trial E3 5c ** 3
  North Wall of Carn Dearg
404 Macphee's Route V 6 * 2
405 Kelletts North Wall Route VII 7 ** 1
406 Brave New World
-
IX 8  
407 The Shape of Things to Come
-
IX 9  
408 Chasing the Ephemeral
-
E6 6b 1
  Cousin's Buttress
410 The Shroud
-
VI 6 ** 18
411 Harrison's Climb Direct
-
IV 4 *** 92
412 Cousinade VII 8 ** 3
  Carn Dearg Summit Buttresses
414 Colando Gully I/II * 3
  Raeburn's Buttress
416 Boomer's Requiem
-
V 5 *** 99
417 Raeburn's Buttress
-
IV 5 ** 26
418 The Crack HVS 5a 1
419 The Crack VIII 8 *** 1
420 Teufel Grooves
-
IX 9 ** 1
  Castle Corrie
422 Compression Crack
-
V 5 ** 61
423 South Castle Gully
-
II * 55
424 Plum Duff V 5 ** 1
425 The Castle
-
III * 28
426 The Castle Direct IV 4 3
427 North Castle Gully
-
II * 61
  Castle Ridge
429 Castle Ridge III ** 481
430 Castle Ridge
-
M ** 325
431 Wandering Mr Sea IV 4 1
  Castle Ridge, North Face
433 The Serpent
-
II * 4
434 The Moat II ** 4
435 Lobby Dancer
-
VI 6 *** 2
436 Nordwand
-
IV 3 ** 27
437 Nordwand direct
-
IV 5 7
438 Alchemist VII 8 ** 1
439 Red Gully * II 1
  Glen Nevis (SW) Flank
441 Five Finger Gully
-
IV 4 ** 2
442 Surgeon's Rib 1 3
443 Surgeon's Gully
-
V 5 **  
444 Polldubh Gully
-
IV 5 **  
445 Steal Waterfall
-
III 5
446 Surprise Gully II * 2
447 Waterfall cascade WI-5 *  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers TonyM and Martin McKenna - UKC