Climbs 379
Rocktype Andesite
Altitude 1344m a.s.l
Faces NE

Centurion © Guy Robertson

Crag features

Fitting of the highest mountain in Britain, Ben Nevis contains some of the finest mountaineering in the land. Unique winter climbing sought out by mountaineers from all over the world. Fine rock climbs of alpine proportions. It's got it all, just maybe not perfectly predictable weather.

For winter climbing, often at it's best in February and March once the snow has undergone some freeze thaw and the buttresses are generaly nicely rimed. More recently the mixed climbs have gained classic status and come into condition very much earlier. The season is long and the easy gullies often remain complete well into late May.

Approach notes

For accessing the North face there is now a very good path direct to the CIC hut. This is total luxury compared to what went before and has consigned some of the previous horrendously boggy approaches to the annals of history.

If approaching by road, turn off the A82 at Torlundy and head for the signed "North Face Car Park". An excellent path rises through conniferous plantation up to the deer fence. Cross this by a mighty style and follow the good path, rising very gently uphill, keeping the Allt a'Mhuilinn river to your R. A final rise lands one at the CIC hut which is a popular spot to take in the fine view of the ampitheatre of cliffs. This all assumes that it isn't sheeting it down with rain...

Put some fresh 6mm ab tat at top of Douglas Boulder 18/11/2014 and a screwgate. Leave in place as the old stuff is pretty beaten up, could do with a lot of it being cut out and taken down!
Nath93 - 28/Nov/14
The abseil post at the top of Coire Leis has been replaced by a cairn. Construction of the cairn to replace the No. 4 gully post (already gone,) is underway. Once finished it should be a 6 foot high, columnar cairn with triangular capstone.
jonnie3430 - 24/Sep/12
Perhaps the best mountain routes in the UK ?
Ben Tye - 16/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Ben Nevis summit
-
summit 1489
2 Carn Dearg
-
summit 84
3 Carn Dearg SW summit 19
4 Meall an t-Suidhe summit 12
  COIRE LEIS
  Little Brenva Face
7 Carn Mor Dearg Arete
-
1 309
8 Carn Mor Dearg Arete I ** 567
9 Final Buttress
-
III 4 15
10 Bob Run
-
II ** 43
11 Moonwalk
-
IV 3 ** 23
12 Cresta
-
III 3 ** 33
13 Cresta Direct
-
IV 4 * 9
14 Slalom
-
III * 6
15 Super G
-
VI 6 ** 2
16 Wall of the Winds VI 5  
17 Frost Bite
-
IV 4 3
18 Isandhlwana
-
V 5 ** 1
19 Route Major
-
IV 4 *** 28
20 Right Major IV 6 * 1
21 The Eastern Climb
-
S * 1
  North East Buttress
23 North East Buttress
-
VD *** 300
24 North East Buttress IV 4 *** 494
25 The Lime Green Gaiter
-
V 6 * 1
26 Newbigging's 80 Minute Route
-
IV 4 1
27 Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Right Hand Variation
-
V 6  
28 Orient Express
-
E2 5c  
29 Orient Express IX 8 ** 1
30 Steam Train
-
HVS 5a  
31 Steam Train
-
VI 7 * 2
32 Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Far Right Variation
-
VD * 4
33 Newbigging's 80 Minute Route Far Right Variation
-
IV 4 4
  OBSERVATORY GULLY
  First Platform
36 Raeburns Arete S ** 147
37 Raeburn's Arete
-
V 6 ** 4
38 Green Hollow Route
-
IV 4 * 2
39 Bayonet Route
-
HS ** 8
40 Bayonet Route
-
IV 4 1
41 Ruddy Rocks
-
VD 4
42 Ruddy Rocks
-
IV 4  
43 Slingsby's Chimney
-
II * 85
  Minus Three Buttress
45 Slab and Rib Variation
-
IV 5 * 4
46 Right-Hand Wall Route
-
IV 5 * 3
47 Right-Hand Wall Route Direct Finish
-
V 4 2
48 Wagroochimsia
-
IV 5 1
49 Platform Rib
-
IV 4 ** 9
50 Minus Three Gully
-
IV 5 *** 106
  Minus Two Buttress
52 Left-hand Route
-
VS 4b * 16
53 Left-Hand Route (Minus Two Buttress)
-
VI 6 ** 4
54 Central Route
-
VI 7 1
55 Central Route
-
HVS 5a *  
56 Right-Hand Route
-
VS 4b **  
57 Right-Hand Route
-
VI 6 * 2
58 Long Division
-
E1 5b * 2
59 Minus Two Buttress
-
V 5 * 2
60 Minus Two Gully V 6 *** 98
  Minus One Buttress
62 Minus One Direct E1 5b *** 66
63 Minus One Direct
-
VIII 8 *** 1
64 Minus One Buttress
-
VII 6 *** 4
65 Minus One Gully VI 6 *** 57
66 Minus One Gully Direct Finish
-
V 5 ** 1
  Orion Face
68 Dark Star VI 5 *** 1
69 Astronomy
-
VI 5 *** 1
70 Astronomy Direct Finish
-
VI 5 ** 2
71 Astronomy
-
VS * 1
72 Smith-Holt Route V 5 ** 6
73 The Long Climb VS *** 344
74 The Long Climb Finish VII 6 *** 7
75 Orion Face Direct
-
V 5 *** 466
76 Orion Direct - Tower Variations VI 5 *** 14
77 Zybernaught VI 6 ** 1
78 Astral Highway
-
VI 5 ** 75
79 Space Walk
-
VII 6 * 3
80 Orion Directissima VI 5 ** 15
81 Slav Route
-
VI 5 *** 64
82 Orion Grooves VI 5 * 1
83 Zero Gully
-
V 4 *** 311
  Observatory Ridge
85 Observatory Ridge (Summer)
-
VD *** 401
86 Observatory Ridge
-
V 4 *** 227
  Observatory Ridge West Face
88 Abacus
-
IV 4 ** 2
89 Vade Mecum
-
V 5 *** 7
90 Hadrian's Wall Direct
-
V 5 *** 360
91 Sickle
-
V 5 *** 59
92 Galactic Hitchhiker
-
VI 5 *** 6
93 Pointless VII 6 *** 1
94 Interstellar Overdrive
-
VI 6 *** 1
95 Point Five Gully V 5 *** 925
  Observatory Buttress
97 Point Blank VII 6 1
98 Left Edge Route
-
V 5 *** 8
99 Appointment with Fear
-
VII 6 *  
100 Match Point VI 5 ** 2
101 Rubicon Wall S * 1
102 Rubicon Wall
-
VI 5 *** 15
103 Observatory Buttress (Summer)
-
VD * 10
104 Observatory Buttress
-
V 4 *** 83
105 Observatory Buttress Direct Finish V 5 ** 9
106 North-West Face V 5 * 1
  Indicator Wall
108 Good Friday Climb
-
III *** 360
109 Good Friday Climb (Direct Finish) III 4 32
110 Indicator Wall
-
V 4 *** 218
111 Indicator Right-Hand
-
V 5 *** 70
112 Riders on the Storm
-
VI 5 *** 10
113 Ship of Fools VIII 7 1
114 Arctic Tern VII 5 1
115 Albatross VI 5 *** 10
116 The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner Direct VII 7 *** 2
117 Call Me Ishmael VIII 9 *** 1
118 Psychedelic Wall
-
VI 5 *** 93
119 Satanic Verses
-
VI 5 *** 11
120 Shot in the Dark
-
V 5 ** 4
121 Caledonia
-
V 5 ** 3
122 Shot in the Back IV 4 * 1
123 Shot in the Foot V 4 5
124 Gardyloo Gully II/III * 334
  Gardyloo Buttress
126 Left Edge Route (Gardyloo Buttress)
-
VI 5 1
127 Kellett's Route VI 6 *** 15
128 Smith's Route
-
V 5 *** 394
129 The Great Glen VI 5 * 3
130 Right Edge IV 4 2
131 Tower Gully I 234
132 Upper Tower Cascade LH
-
III 13
133 Upper Tower Cascade RH
-
III 6
  TOWER RIDGE AREA
  Tower Ridge, East Flank
136 Tower Scoop III ** 448
137 Tower Cleft
-
III * 8
138 Clefthanger VII 7 ** 1
139 Frosty's Vigil VIII 8 ** 2
140 Faith Healer VIII 7 * 1
141 Echo Traverse (Direct Icefall Star / Wet Spring Start) V 6 * 2
142 Goodeve's Route
-
III 3
143 The Brass Monkey VII 8 *** 3
144 The Great Chimney
-
IV 5 ** 14
145 Chimney Groove IV 6 2
146 Alaska Highway IV 1
  Tower Ridge
148 Tower Ridge
-
D *** 1681
149 Great Tower Variation: Ogilvy's Route VD 2
150 Great Tower Variation: Bell's Route VD 3
151 Tower Ridge IV 3 *** 1513
  Douglas Boulder
153 Douglas Gap East Gully
-
I 134
154 East Ridge IV 5 21
155 Direct Route VD ** 176
156 Direct Route
-
IV 4 * 12
157 Direct Route II
-
S * 13
158 Down to the Wire V 6 1
159 North-West Face Route
-
V 5 6
160 Militant Chimney VI 6 3
161 Turf War V 6 *** 3
162 Gutless IV 5 22
163 Rutless VII 8 ** 1
164 Cutlass
-
VI 7 * 60
165 Cutlass
-
VS 4b * 3
166 Jacknife V 6 42
167 South West Ridge M * 9
168 South-West Ridge IV 5 ** 211
169 Douglas Gap West Gully
-
I * 134
  Secondary Tower Ridge
171 Fawlty Towers III * 118
172 Breaking Good II * 1
173 1934 Route
-
II/III ** 38
174 Vagabond's Rib S 1
175 Vanishing Gully
-
V 5 *** 304
176 Fatboy Slim
-
VI 6 * 4
177 Italian Climb
-
III * 33
178 Italian Right-Hand
-
IV 4 ** 118
179 The Chute
-
V 4 * 2
  GARADH NA CISTE
181 Garadh Gully II * 246
182 Garadh Buttress II * 3
183 Thea III * 2
184 Crying Out Loud IV 5 * 2
185 Aquatherapy * III 1
186 Broad Gully
-
II 12
  Pinnacle Buttress of the Tower
188 Stringfellow
-
VI 6 *** 17
189 Smooth Operator VI 7 2
190 Pinnacle Buttress Direct
-
V 5 ** 4
191 Glovers Chimney
-
III 4 *** 385
  Goodeve's Buttress
193 The Gutter IV 4 *** 14
194 The White Line
-
III ** 130
  Raeburn's Wall
196 Raeburn's Easy Route
-
II *** 202
197 The Blue Horizon
-
IV 4 1
198 The Cascade
-
IV 5 ** 103
199 Expert's Choice III ** 31
200 Raeburn's not so Easy III 4 16
201 La Panthere Rose VI 6 * 3
  Coire na Ciste
  Number Two Gully Buttress
204 Five Finger Discount
-
IV 4 11
205 Burrito's Groove
-
IV 5 ** 8
206 JP Is Back
-
IV 4 * 5
207 BD was Here III * 3
208 Number Two Gully Buttress
-
III *** 149
209 Number Two Gully II *** 466
  Comb Gully Buttress
211 Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - Left V 6  
212 Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - Right IV 4  
213 Comb Gully Buttress Icefalls - Rightmost IV 4 1
214 Comb Gully Buttress
-
IV 4 ** 53
215 Comb Gully Buttress - Annick Exit IV 5 2
216 Comb Gully Buttress - Icicle Finish V 5 * 3
217 Clough's Chimney
-
VI 6 * 5
218 Roaring Forties
-
V 5 ** 2
219 Big Bad Ben
-
VII 7  
220 Comb Gully
-
IV 4 *** 606
  The Comb
222 The Comb - Left Flank IV 4 * 2
223 Hesperides Ledge
-
III ** 2
224 The Good Groove
-
VII 7 **  
225 Quisling Wall
-
VI 6 *  
226 Lost Souls
-
VI 6 2
227 Tower Face of the Comb
-
VI 6 *** 41
228 Anubis XII 12 *** 1
229 Anubis E8 6c ***  
230 Don't Die of Ignorance
-
XI 11 4
231 Pigott's Route
-
V 6 * 2
232 Mercury
-
V 5 ** 3
233 Green Gully
-
IV 3 *** 899
  Number Three Gully Buttress
235 Venus
-
V 5 *  
236 Aphrodite
-
IV 4 ** 9
237 Tramp
-
IV 4 * 1
238 Diana
-
V 5 ** 15
239 Vulture
-
V 5 **  
240 Number Three Gully Buttress
-
III *** 408
241 Number Three Gully Buttress Direct Finish IV 5 * 17
242 Quickstep
-
V 5 * 12
243 Boston Two Step
-
VI 6 *  
244 Two-Step Corner
-
V 5 ** 117
245 Arthur VIII 8 ** 2
246 Knuckleduster
-
VIII 9 2
247 Knuckleduster
-
HVS 5a **  
248 Knuckleduster Direct VIII 9 ** 2
249 Curly's Arete VIII 8 * 1
250 Sioux Wall
-
VIII 8 31
251 Sioux Wall
-
HVS 5a ** 2
252 Tomahawk Crack VIII 9 *** 4
253 Apache VIII 8 ** 4
254 Thompson's Route IV 4 *** 192
255 Gremlins
-
VI 6 ** 4
256 Gargoyle Wall
-
VI 6 *** 72
257 Hobgoblin
-
VI 7 ** 5
258 Babylon
-
VII 8 ** 23
259 Hanging Garden VII 8 ** 1
260 Collaboration VI 7 **  
261 Snuff Wall VIII 8 1
262 Sake VIII 9 ** 4
263 Winter Chimney
-
V 5 ** 12
264 El Nino III 4 2
265 Winter Cascade IV 5 * 14
266 Number Three Gully
-
I ** 359
267 Number Three Gully (Variation finish)
-
II 11
  Creag Coire na Ciste
269 To Those Who Wait IX 9 *** 1
270 The Secret VIII 9 *** 11
271 Catriona VIII 8 1
272 Cornucopia VII 9 ** 6
273 Darth Vader
-
VII 8 *** 38
274 Han Solo VIII 7 ** 1
275 Storm Trooper
-
VIII 8  
276 Arch Angel
-
VII 7 ** 1
277 Avenging Angel Direct VIII 8 6
278 South Sea Bubble
-
VII 6 **  
279 South Gully III * 51
280 Lost The Place
-
V 5 *** 37
281 Une Journee Ordinaire
-
V 6 ** 7
282 Levitation
-
VI 6 * 1
283 Central Gully, Creag Coire na Ciste III 4 ** 79
284 Central Gully Right-Hand
-
IV 4 *** 153
285 Wendigo
-
IV 4 ** 34
286 Place Your Bets
-
VI 6 ** 1
287 North Gully II 195
288 North Gully - The Left Fork IV 5 ** 4
289 The Gift III 4 15
290 Four Play IV 4 4
291 Number Four Gully
-
I ** 570
292 Number Four Gully Buttress 3 3
  South Trident Buttress
294 1944 Route
-
S * 8
295 The Minge VII 8 ** 1
296 Tangerine Dreams VII 8 ** 2
297 The Groove Climb
-
V 6 * 4
298 Sidewinder
-
HVS 5a ** 10
299 Sidewinder VII 8 ** 26
300 Strident Edge
-
VS 4c ** 12
301 Strident Edge (winter) VI 7 *** 11
302 String Vest Theory VII 8 * 2
303 Devastation
-
E1 5b ** 3
304 Devastation (Winter) VII 8 ** 4
305 Spartacus
-
VS 4c  
306 Spartacus Winter VI 7  
307 The Slab Climb
-
S * 1
308 The Slab Climb VI 7 ** 43
309 The Clanger
-
IV 5 ** 11
310 Pinnacle Arete
-
IV 4 * 11
311 Pinnacle Arete
-
VD ** 11
312 Joyful Chimneys IV 4 4
313 Central Gully, South Trident Buttress III * 22
314 Nasturtium IV 4 * 5
315 Morton's Neuroma V 5 * 1
316 Jubilation
-
IV 4 * 15
317 Poseidon Groove
-
IV 5 3
  Jubilee Buttress
319 Jubilee Climb
-
VD  
320 Jubilee Climb
-
II 11
321 Mega Reve
-
VI 6 *  
  Central Trident Buttress
323 Steam
-
HVS 5a * 2
324 Feeding Frenzy
-
VI 7 *  
325 Mega Route X
-
V 6 *** 35
326 Heidbanger E1 5b * 5
327 Heidbanger (Winter) VIII 8 * 2
328 Metamorphosis E2 5b ** 2
  North Trident Buttress
330 Neptune Gully
-
III 24
331 North Trident Buttress
-
III ** 25
332 Moonlight Gully
-
II * 55
  Moonlight Gully Buttress
334 Fifties Revival IV 6 1
335 Diagonal Route III 14
336 The Big Cheese VIII 8 ** 3
337 Right-Hand Chimney, Moonlight Gully Buttress
-
IV 4 ** 21
338 Phosphorescent Grooves III 4 * 2
339 Take Off IV 5 1
340 Number Five Gully
-
I ** 190
  Number Five Gully Buttress
342 Free Range VII 7 *** 3
343 Ledge Route
-
II *** 1326
344 Ledge Route 2 *** 485
  CARN DEARG, BEN NEVIS
  Cairn Dearg Cascade
347 Carn Dearg Cascade / CIC Icefall V 5 *** 55
348 Carn Dearg Right Cascade / CIC Icefall IV 4 * 62
  Carn Dearg Buttress
350 Curtain Rail IV 4 * 33
351 Mourning Slab
-
VS  
352 The Blind
-
VS 4b *  
353 The Curtain
-
IV 5 *** 425
354 Route I
-
VI 6 *** 24
355 Route I
-
S ** 26
356 Route I Direct Start
-
VI 6 * 18
357 PM
-
VS 4c *  
358 Route II Direct
-
VI 6 *** 6
359 Route ll Direct
-
S *** 52
360 Dissection
-
HVS 5a  
361 The Shadow VS 4c ** 7
362 The Shadow
-
VII 6 *** 4
363 The Bullroar HVS 5a *** 50
364 Adrenalin Rush
-
E3 6a  
365 Cowslip
-
E2 5c  
366 Torro E2 5b *** 142
367 Red Rag
-
E2 5c **  
368 Centurion HVS 5a *** 603
369 Centurion (Winter)
-
VIII 8 ** 7
370 King Kong
-
E2 5c *** 35
371 Trajan's Column E6 6b ***  
372 The Bat
-
E2 5b *** 174
373 The Wicked
-
E6 6b *  
374 Sassenach
-
E1 5b ** 4
375 The Banana Groove
-
E4 6a *** 9
376 Agrippa
-
E5 6b *** 5
377 Caligula E3 5c ** 5
378 Titan's Wall E3 5c *** 38
379 Boadicea E4 6a ** 1
380 Shield Direct VII 7 *** 5
381 Shield Direct
-
HVS 5a ** 2
382 Gemini VI 6 *** 104
383 The Bewildabeast VI 6 *** 5
384 Waterfall Gully
-
IV 4 * 164
385 Waterfall Gully, True Finish
-
VI 6 ** 6
386 The Trial E3 5c ** 2
  North Wall of Carn Dearg
388 Macphee's Route V 6 * 2
389 Kelletts North Wall Route VII 7 ** 1
  Cousin's Buttress
391 The Shroud
-
VI 6 ** 14
392 Harrison's Climb Direct
-
IV 4 *** 103
393 Cousinade VII 8 ** 3
  Carn Dearg Summit Buttresses
395 Colando Gully I/II * 1
  Raeburn's Buttress
397 Boomer's Requiem
-
V 5 *** 80
398 Raeburn's Buttress
-
IV 5 ** 20
399 The Crack HVS 5a  
400 The Crack VIII 8 *** 2
401 Teufel Grooves
-
IX 9 ** 1
  Castle Corrie
403 Compression Crack
-
V 5 ** 46
404 South Castle Gully
-
II * 48
405 Plum Duff V 5 ** 1
406 The Castle
-
III * 25
407 The Castle Direct IV 4 1
408 North Castle Gully
-
II * 51
  Castle Ridge
410 Castle Ridge III ** 478
411 Castle Ridge
-
M ** 281
  Castle Ridge, North Face
413 The Serpent
-
II * 4
414 The Moat II ** 3
415 Lobby Dancer
-
VI 6 *** 1
416 Nordwand
-
IV 3 ** 27
417 Nordwand direct
-
IV 5 7
  Glen Nevis (SW) Flank
419 Five Finger Gully
-
IV 4 ** 1
420 Surgeon's Rib 1 1
421 Surgeon's Gully
-
V 5 **  
422 Polldubh Gully
-
IV 5 **  
423 Steal Waterfall
-
III 5
424 Surprise Gully II * 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers TonyM and Martin McKenna - UKC