Climbing banned in Spain

Due to the ongoing spread of Coronavirus, Spain has banned all climbing. Continuing to do so not only puts people at risk, but can also put more strain on emergency workers. Please do not climb here.

Lamoncloa (Spanish Government) link with more info

Climbs 24
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 648m a.s.l
Faces S

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Redpoint of Magic Flute at Bernia on the Costa Blanca (climber Mark Glaister) © Mark Glaister - Assistant Editor

Crag features

The Bernia Ridge is the spectacular rocky crest that runs from east to west, a short distance south of Calp. It rises to 1126m at the western summit, and has often been described as the Costa Blanca's version of the Skye Ridge. The most impressive section of the ridge has become a beacon for climbers and serious scramblers and provides a fabulous, airy outing. The developed climbing area consists of several sport and trad routes which pick lines out from the good bits of rock along the southern flank of the ridge. The sport routes tend to be in the higher grades and include the classic Magic Flute.

The Bernia climbing area faces southwest and get loads of sun, but it is exposed to any wind. Progress along the foot of the cliff can be a painful affair due to the coarse vegetation; the occasional animal track helps. The routes are generally quick-drying. The ridge itself is extremely exposed to any weather that is going and should only be attempted in good conditions.

Approach notes

Climbing Areas - From the N332 coast road at Olla de Altea, take the road inland towards Callosa d'En Sarrià. Go right through Altea Vella, and about 1.5km after leaving the town, turn off to the right (signed 'Serra de Bernia' and 'Fort de Bernia'). Drive up the steep winding road for 5km (quite poor in places) to some small cottages high above the coast. Park here, or at the small picnic area a little further on. To reach the climbs, follow the steep concrete road up to the highest buildings and walk round behind these to locate a good track that cuts across the hillside, descending slightly as it goes. All the routes can be accessed from this path by cutting directly uphill to the base of the routes.

The Ridge - Follow the AP-7 to junction 63 and exit here. Turn south and drive through Benissa and turn right at a junction signed for Xalo/Jalon. Immediately take the road on the left signed to the village of Pinos, follow this winding road uphill for around approximately 7km to a left turn that leads to the parking at the start of the approach walk next to a restaurant on the left. From the parking, walk past the front of the restaurant and follow a track/road along the wooded slopes below the ridge to a font at some rocks on the right. From the font, follow a path on the right (yellow and white painted stripes) that climbs up across scrub and scree to meet the rocky base of the ridge at a round hole in the cliff. The hole goes right through the ridge to the other side - a remarkable feature. The path now gets a little steeper and ends in an easy scramble to a col on the ridge and a breathtaking view down to the coast. 


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Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
The road has been resurfaced (summer 2019) and is currently immaculate. However, as the Vuelta de Valencia had a stage finish here, the narrow road is now a cycling Mecca. This can make the drive challenging and slow. Parking is on the right shortly before reaching the houses at the top
Mark Eddy - 01/Mar/20
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Bernia Summit
2 Bernia summit
summit 51
3 Bernia East summit
summit 6
  Bernia Ridge
5 Bernia Ridge 4c *** 409
  Bernia Crag
7 The Immaculate ArĂȘte 7b *** 1
8 Jayne's Project 6c * 16
9 Paradise Lost 7a ** 6
Climb name Grade
10 The First and Last 8b **  
11 Via Gomez 8a **  
12 Gomez el mas duro 8b+ **  
13 Tufa Groove 7b+ *** 8
14 The Magic Flute 7b *** 58
15 Gomez la Maquina 8a+ *  
16 The Sphinx 8a  
17 The Grand Diedre 6c *  
18 Secrets 7a 1
Climb name Grade
19 The Diagonal 6c *  
20 Mark in Time 8b ***  
21 The Long Rib 6c *** 1
22 Pobrecito 6a 1
23 Ranura 5c * 2
24 Pedazos 6a+ * 15
25 Bloque! 7a+ *  
26 Brevemente 5c * 8
27 Bajo de estatura 5a 8

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