Climbs 258
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces all

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Steve on Tortuga Island 7c © Orange House

Crag features

The Sierra de Toix is the impressive ridge that juts out into the sea between Calp to the north and Altea to the south. There are rock outcrops all along the ridge facing in all directions and there is also a massive sea cliff on the lower south side. 

Historically this was one of the first areas to be developed for sport climbing back in the 1980s and some of the routes (and gear) are showing their age. More recently the larger less-continuous faces have been developed with a series of long, often multi-pitch, routes with a mixture of threads and bolts for protection and often indicated by red-painted arrows.

One of the great appeals of the area is the wide variety of routes on offer in the mid and lower grades making it probably the most popular crag in the whole of the Costa Blanca. As a complete contrast to this the stunning sea cliffs on the southern side have a set of routes for the more adventurous climber looking for both sport and trad routes in a wild and atmospheric setting.

There is no doubt that the Toix area has a love or hate relationship with many visitors. What is clear though is that most people will visit here at least once during a one week stay in the area and almost certainly enjoy some excellent routes in a dramatic setting.

The 360˚ aspect means that it is almost always possible to find something to climb here whatever the weather. If it is raining inland it is often dry on Toix. Conversely, when the sun is beating down, it is possible to find some shade - for easier routes Toix Oeste in the morning and Toix Este in the afternoon are both worth considering. Its exposed position means that it can be windy.

Approach notes

Most of the various buttresses described here are reached from Maryvilla - the sprawling collection of holiday villas on the northern slopes of the ridge. The Maryvilla's turn-off is well-signed on the N332 to the south of Calp, just north of the Mascarat Gorge (note that entry is not allowed south-bound; continue a couple of hundred metres to where a lay-by allows you to turn around). Once you are in Maryvilla, stick to the approach descriptions listed with each crag and you should be okay. If you are driving up from further south, then take the Altea turn off (junction 64) and drive through the Mascarat Gorge to find Maryvilla on the right. There is also a useful parking spot in Pueblo Mascarat for access to Raco del Corv.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
The route just left The Whole of creation is named "Mussol fantastic"
Dave Sr - 04/Dec/13
The road to Toix TV has a wire across it now, just after the last villa, you have to park and walk. Maybe nearer to walk from Toix Oeste, but a bit harder?
Stu Tyrrell - 17/Jul/13
"Super Kulore" is one of the new routes to the left of Hetti at toix este - 8 pitches and 260m grade 4 - excellant tour of the new crag
auld al - 25/Jan/12
There is a new line between "Presto" and "the whole of creation", just left of 'the whole of creation'", goes at about 6a+/6b.
ASchwirtz - 02/Jan/12
how about sorting the routes into the sectors?
michael burrows - 29/Oct/11
there are now 4 new grade 5 climbs left of hetti on sector este about aound 30m long. also several grade 3/4 multi pitch which had just been put up, the names and grades are written on the rock, unfortunately i didn't write them down.. doh
michael burrows - 29/Oct/11
Toix Far Oeste: 5 brand new routes (2011) round to R of El endo, No14, p245 Rockfax. I've just done the second and third. Worth it and in the 5/5+ range. Names are at the bottom but no grades.
Paul Horan - 22/Mar/11
Big fan of Toix Far Oeste which is simple to reach and has lots of nice easy routes, perfect for beginners or people not wanting to push themselves too hard and it generally seems to be sunny and warm, even in winter.
magpie - 05/Jan/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Toix Oeste
2 Amarilla 5a * 25
3 Zorro Veloz 6b ** 24
4 Plata 6a ** 50
5 Green Route I 6a+ ** 72
6 A Black Route 7a ** 17
7 Red Route Directa 6c * 7
8 Red Route I 6b *** 84
9 Black Route 6b+ ** 28
10 Bernado 6a ** 12
11 Green Route II 6a ** 108
12 Espolón Limaban 5a *** 565
13 Dedi - UBSA 6a ** 114
14 Red Route II 5c ** 211
15 Del Plas 5c ** 108
16 Carlos 6a * 88
17 Blue Route 5c ** 113
18 Posi 6a * 55
19 Dire Straits 5c * 123
20 Dire Espolón 5a * 52
21 Espolón Gris 4c ** 343
22 Método tradicional 4a 39
23 Viejos tiempos 4c * 46
24 Tiempo Moderno 6a+ ** 82
25 Red Route III 6a * 79
26 Renov 5a ** 375
27 Manuel Andres 6a ** 71
28 Green Route lll 6a * 43
29 Maria Reyes 6b * 26
30 El Menú de Día 5c * 31
31 Black Route II 5a ** 198
32 Chabito 4c * 105
  Far Oeste
34 Dessie Done Dallas 3a ** 93
35 La roja una 3a * 491
36 Asombroso 3c * 650
37 Costilla 4c * 770
38 Dizzy Blondes 4b * 114
39 La roja dos 4a * 777
40 Bella ruta 4a * 740
41 Calpe Grooves 3a *** 52
42 Ocho fixe 4a * 721
43 Hamna 4a * 446
44 Uroma 3a * 234
45 La roja tres 5a * 1017
46 Help for Heroes 6b * 200
47 Benidorm Boogie 4c ** 49
48 La cagona 4c * 382
49 La roja quatro 3a * 482
50 Bernd 4a * 467
51 Senor Jones 4a * 581
52 Eve 4a * 132
53 Presto 5c * 501
54 Blunt 6b * 97
55 The Whole of Creation 6c ** 194
56 Enérgico 6a+ ** 546
57 La roja seis 5c * 699
58 El endo 4a * 431
59 Darola 3c 56
60 Gracias Uwa 4c 159
61 Pequeno Gecko 5a * 268
62 Grand Grill 5c * 307
63 Antonia + Olivia * 5b * 30
64 Lobo 6a * 415
65 Ausgeschissn 4c * 217
66 Unknown 4 * 4a 15
67 Nurnburger 3c 14
68 Frankenplatte
-
4b 15
69 Trubach
-
3c 9
70 Haselstauden
-
4c 8
71 Gregg's & Green * 4b ** 1
  Toix Placa
73 Cliber 5c ** 269
74 Ruwa 5a * 98
75 Oma Sus 5a ** 182
76 Opa Mus 5a 13
77 Lofi 4c * 164
78 Lara 4c ** 235
79 Anto 5a * 89
80 Rosa
-
4b 12
81 Maria
-
3c 26
82 Ana 4c ** 227
83 Hewa 5a * 67
84 Taca Ploix 6a+ 1
85 Mushu 6a * 66
86 Ghost in the Shell 6b+ ** 45
87 Horst (TP)
-
5a * 14
Climb name Grade
88 Jan 4c ** 101
89 Eva 4c 21
90 Los Urbanos 4c * 91
91 Anbea 4a 38
92 Jonas 4a 66
93 Alasdair 3c * 94
94 Kurzer Genus 5a * 91
95 Kalk Svott Wiehnul 6b * 116
96 Heavy Boyfriend 6a+ * 62
97 Rudy Caroll 6a+ * 49
98 Coming back to Life 6c ** 89
99 Thalia 6b+ * 187
100 No Name 6a+ ** 246
101 Pegasus 6a * 165
102 Cicky Bugger 5c * 147
103 Heaven Is... 5c ** 260
104 Johanna 5a ** 212
105 Heti 4c * 136
106 4 You 6a ** 138
107 Semi Dulce 5c * 95
108 Steinbeisser 6a * 97
109 Fantasia 6a 42
110 For my son Jens 6b+ * 18
111 For my son Jens (Initial Rib) 5b 3
112 Aladdin 6c 8
113 Hafa 4c * 13
114 Hova 4c ** 62
115 Noldis 5c * 19
  Toix TV - Amphitheatre
117 Scorpion 7a+ * 4
118 Cobra (P1) 7b *** 4
119 Cobra 8a ** 1
120 Short and Sweet 5c ** 147
121 Monkey Wall 6c *** 131
122 Painted Wall 6b+ ** 163
123 Max Headroom 7c+ **  
124 Mongoose 7c **  
125 Dynosaurus 7b ** 11
126 Gripper 6a+ ** 103
127 Chain Lane 6a+ * 58
128 Nut Route 5a 3
129 Chunkies 4c 30
  Toix TV - Tropical Dreams
131 Reigen Bogen 5c 9
132 Daddycool 6a+ * 52
133 Terminator 6c+ * 29
134 Follow Me 7a+ ** 21
135 Salida 7a ** 46
136 Gaudi Max 6a+ * 117
137 Cloud No.9 6a ** 131
138 El baile 5a ** 156
139 UB40 6a ** 288
140 Tropical Dreams 6a ** 466
141 Dear Renate 6a ** 312
142 Verlassen + betrogen 4c * 314
143 Banana Joe 6a 144
144 Universal 6a ** 222
145 Gufelwufel 5a ** 402
146 Seduction 6a * 253
147 Atlantis 6a * 114
148 Unknown 6 * 4b 30
149 Gutzufuss 3c 107
150 Snadengrot 4a 125
  The Toix Ridge
152 The Toix Ridge 5c ** 189
  Raco Del Corv
154 Clive's Redoubt 7a *** 17
155 Isla de encanta 6b *** 28
156 El Dorado 6a+ *** 159
157 Eldorado 2 6a 3
158 Sombre 7b 1
159 Müne 7b  
160 Ven Corada 6b ** 9
161 Vía Missing Link 6b+ *** 47
162 Ven Corada Right 6b+ *  
163 Luces Nocturnas 6b **  
164 Le Galleon 6a * 3
  Magical Mystery Tour
166 Rowland's Promised Land 6b ** 2
167 Rowland's Journey to Xanadu 6c *** 2
168 Journey to Xanadu 6c **  
169 Kubla Khan 7b *  
170 Dimage 6b+ *  
171 Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour 5a *** 380
172 Raptured Dreams 7a  
173 The Flame 7b  
174 Candelabra del Sol 8a ***  
Climb name Grade
175 Goliath 8a **  
176 Lady in Space 6b ** 1
177 Malice Aforethought 6b *  
178 Calamardo * 6c+ ** 2
  Pirates of the Caribbean
180 Calamardo
-
7a+ 1
181 La Senda de los Huesos 6b 1
182 Calypso (P1)
-
6c ** 3
183 Calypso 7b+ *  
184 El fin del mundo (P1)
-
7a+ ** 2
185 El Fin del Mundo 7c ** 1
186 Perla Negra 8a *** 1
187 Perla Negra (P1)
-
7a+ *** 1
188 Bo'Sun (P1) 6a ** 3
189 Boson 7b+ **  
190 Boson's Chair 7c *  
191 Tia Alma 7c **  
192 Murtogg 6c+ *  
193 Mullroy 7a **  
194 Tortuga Approach 7a *  
195 Tortuga Island 7c **  
196 Capt Barbossa 7a+ 3
197 Anna Maria la Pirata con Cojones 7c+ ** 2
198 Off the Edge of the Map 8a ***  
199 Keelhauled 7b *** 1
200 Plank Walk 6c * 4
201 Parle 6a+ *** 192
202 Miss Swan 6b * 2
203 Aztec Gold 6b+  
204 Welcome to the Caribbean 7c+ **  
205 Jack Sparrow 7a *  
206 Orange Men 8a+ **  
  Toix Este
208 Variante Juan Directa 5c 2
209 George 3c 30
210 Juan 4a 15
211 Quick 4a 14
212 Horst 4c * 70
213 Spatz 5a * 19
214 Puma 5c ** 20
215 Espolón Arta 4a 40
216 Eva's Traum 5c * 27
217 Koch Platte 5c * 36
218 Genid 5a * 41
219 Los Amigos 5c * 28
220 Ralf 3a * 8
221 Kulore 4a 17
222 Super Kulore 4a * 25
223 Hetti 4c * 68
224 Fluida Conexión Izquierda 6b 4
225 Fluida Conexión 6b+ * 9
226 Borro el toro 7a+ 3
227 Edward's Slab 7a 3
228 La tonta del bote 6b+ * 4
229 Vía de los fakiros 6b+ * 11
230 Hannah 6b ** 18
231 Hekur 5c * 29
232 Purpúreo 5a * 47
233 Spölli 5a * 94
234 Winter 6a ** 76
235 Verde 5c ** 120
236 "P" 5c ** 65
237 Vía la fina 5c ** 103
238 Plata 6a+ * 34
239 Vía pyramid 5a * 28
240 Sol y bon tiempo 6b+ * 19
241 Vía yuyuba Directa 6c * 10
242 Vía yuyuba 6a+ *** 83
243 King Cucudrulu 7a 9
244 El oso y el mandaron 6a+ ** 34
245 Verde dos 6a * 61
246 La ramuna arenosa 6a+ * 67
247 Going Solo 6c+ 13
248 Graphic Whore 6c+ 6
249 Amarillo 6a 24
250 Adiós Dali 7c+ *  
  Toix Norte
252 Route 1 7b **  
253 Por quien doblan 7b+ **  
254 Route 3 7a+ *** 4
255 S.S. 7b *** 2
256 La Niña 6b+  
257 La Novia 6b 1
258 La Viuda 6c 1
259 Piñón 7a 1
260 Route 9 7b *  
261 Route 10 7a+ *  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris Craggs