Climbs 258
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces all

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Steve on Tortuga Island 7c © Orange House

Crag features

The Sierra de Toix is the impressive ridge that juts out into the sea between Calp to the north and Altea to the south. There are rock outcrops all along the ridge facing in all directions and there is also a massive sea cliff on the lower south side. 

Historically this was one of the first areas to be developed for sport climbing back in the 1980s and some of the routes (and gear) are showing their age. More recently the larger less-continuous faces have been developed with a series of long, often multi-pitch, routes with a mixture of threads and bolts for protection and often indicated by red-painted arrows.

One of the great appeals of the area is the wide variety of routes on offer in the mid and lower grades making it probably the most popular crag in the whole of the Costa Blanca. As a complete contrast to this the stunning sea cliffs on the southern side have a set of routes for the more adventurous climber looking for both sport and trad routes in a wild and atmospheric setting.

There is no doubt that the Toix area has a love or hate relationship with many visitors. What is clear though is that most people will visit here at least once during a one week stay in the area and almost certainly enjoy some excellent routes in a dramatic setting.

The 360˚ aspect means that it is almost always possible to find something to climb here whatever the weather. If it is raining inland it is often dry on Toix. Conversely, when the sun is beating down, it is possible to find some shade - for easier routes Toix Oeste in the morning and Toix Este in the afternoon are both worth considering. Its exposed position means that it can be windy.

Approach notes

Most of the various buttresses described here are reached from Maryvilla - the sprawling collection of holiday villas on the northern slopes of the ridge. The Maryvilla's turn-off is well-signed on the N332 to the south of Calp, just north of the Mascarat Gorge (note that entry is not allowed south-bound; continue a couple of hundred metres to where a lay-by allows you to turn around). Once you are in Maryvilla, stick to the approach descriptions listed with each crag and you should be okay. If you are driving up from further south, then take the Altea turn off (junction 64) and drive through the Mascarat Gorge to find Maryvilla on the right. There is also a useful parking spot in Pueblo Mascarat for access to Raco del Corv.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
The route just left The Whole of creation is named "Mussol fantastic"
Dave Sr - 04/Dec/13
The road to Toix TV has a wire across it now, just after the last villa, you have to park and walk. Maybe nearer to walk from Toix Oeste, but a bit harder?
Stu Tyrrell - 17/Jul/13
"Super Kulore" is one of the new routes to the left of Hetti at toix este - 8 pitches and 260m grade 4 - excellant tour of the new crag
auld al - 25/Jan/12
There is a new line between "Presto" and "the whole of creation", just left of 'the whole of creation'", goes at about 6a+/6b.
ASchwirtz - 02/Jan/12
how about sorting the routes into the sectors?
michael burrows - 29/Oct/11
there are now 4 new grade 5 climbs left of hetti on sector este about aound 30m long. also several grade 3/4 multi pitch which had just been put up, the names and grades are written on the rock, unfortunately i didn't write them down.. doh
michael burrows - 29/Oct/11
Toix Far Oeste: 5 brand new routes (2011) round to R of El endo, No14, p245 Rockfax. I've just done the second and third. Worth it and in the 5/5+ range. Names are at the bottom but no grades.
Paul Horan - 22/Mar/11
Big fan of Toix Far Oeste which is simple to reach and has lots of nice easy routes, perfect for beginners or people not wanting to push themselves too hard and it generally seems to be sunny and warm, even in winter.
magpie - 05/Jan/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Toix Oeste
2 Amarilla 5a * 25
3 Zorro Veloz 6b ** 25
4 Plata 6a ** 53
5 Green Route I 6a+ ** 74
6 A Black Route 7a ** 19
7 Red Route Directa 6c * 7
8 Red Route I 6b *** 87
9 Black Route 6b+ ** 28
10 Bernado 6a ** 15
11 Green Route II 6a ** 111
12 Espolón Limaban 5a *** 610
13 Dedi - UBSA 6a ** 125
14 Red Route II 5c ** 220
15 Del Plas 5c ** 130
16 Carlos 6a * 92
17 Blue Route 5c ** 116
18 Posi 6a * 57
19 Dire Straits 5c * 130
20 Dire Espolón 5a * 56
21 Espolón Gris 4c ** 353
22 Método tradicional 4a 39
23 Viejos tiempos 4c * 57
24 Tiempo Moderno 6a+ ** 93
25 Red Route III 6a * 79
26 Renov 5a ** 388
27 Manuel Andres 6a ** 79
28 Green Route lll 6a * 43
29 Maria Reyes 6b * 30
30 El Menú de Día 5c * 31
31 Black Route II 5a ** 203
32 Chabito 4c * 112
  Far Oeste
34 Dessie Done Dallas 3a ** 99
35 La roja una 3a * 503
36 Asombroso 3c * 667
37 Costilla 4c * 805
38 Dizzy Blondes 4b * 142
39 La roja dos 4a * 809
40 Bella ruta 4a * 760
41 Calpe Grooves 3a *** 77
42 Ocho fixe 4a * 764
43 Hamna 4a * 482
44 Uroma 3a * 249
45 La roja tres 5a * 1016
46 Help for Heroes 6b * 221
47 Benidorm Boogie 4c ** 75
48 La cagona 4c * 409
49 La roja quatro 3a * 494
50 Bernd 4a * 458
51 Senor Jones 4a * 557
52 Eve 4a * 143
53 Presto 5c * 485
54 Blunt 6b * 107
55 The Whole of Creation 6c ** 201
56 Enérgico 6a+ ** 590
57 La roja seis 5c * 696
58 El endo 4a * 438
59 Darola 3c 58
60 Gracias Uwa 4c 171
61 Pequeno Gecko 5a * 274
62 Grand Grill 5c * 329
63 Antonia + Olivia * 5b * 42
64 Lobo 6a * 454
65 Ausgeschissn 4c * 232
66 Unknown 4 * 4a 22
67 Nurnburger 3c 16
68 Frankenplatte
-
4b 17
69 Trubach
-
3c 12
70 Haselstauden
-
4c 11
71 Gregg's & Green * 4b ** 10
72 Unknown * 5c * 2
73 Chasing the Sun * 4c ** 5
  Toix Placa
75 Cliber 5c ** 306
76 Ruwa 5a * 109
77 Oma Sus 5a ** 196
78 Opa Mus 5a 13
79 Lofi 4c * 169
80 Lara 4c ** 244
81 Anto 5a * 96
82 Rosa
-
4b 13
83 Maria
-
3c 27
84 Ana 4c ** 241
85 Hewa 5a * 70
86 Taca Ploix 6a+ 1
87 Mushu 6a * 71
88 Ghost in the Shell 6b+ ** 52
Climb name Grade
89 Horst (TP)
-
5a * 16
90 Jan 4c ** 107
91 Eva 4c 23
92 Los Urbanos 4c * 96
93 Anbea 4a 38
94 Jonas 4a 68
95 Alasdair 3c * 97
96 Kurzer Genus 5a * 97
97 Kalk Svott Wiehnul 6b * 118
98 Heavy Boyfriend 6a+ * 71
99 Rudy Caroll 6a+ * 52
100 Coming back to Life 6c ** 96
101 Thalia 6b+ * 202
102 No Name 6a+ ** 266
103 Pegasus 6a * 171
104 Cicky Bugger 5c * 151
105 Heaven Is... 5c ** 273
106 Johanna 5a ** 223
107 Heti 4c * 139
108 4 You 6a ** 146
109 Semi Dulce 5c * 96
110 Steinbeisser 6a * 103
111 Fantasia 6a 43
112 For my son Jens 6b+ * 18
113 For my son Jens (Initial Rib) 5b 3
114 Aladdin 6c 8
115 Hafa 4c * 13
116 Hova 4c ** 63
117 Noldis 5c * 19
  Toix TV - Amphitheatre
119 Scorpion 7a+ * 4
120 Cobra (P1) 7b *** 4
121 Cobra 8a ** 1
122 Short and Sweet 5c ** 152
123 Monkey Wall 6c *** 148
124 Painted Wall 6b+ ** 166
125 Max Headroom 7c+ **  
126 Mongoose 7c **  
127 Dynosaurus 7b ** 12
128 Gripper 6a+ ** 109
129 Chain Lane 6a+ * 44
130 Nut Route 5a 3
131 Chunkies 4c 31
  Toix TV - Tropical Dreams
133 Reigen Bogen 5c 10
134 Daddycool 6a+ * 52
135 Terminator 6c+ * 30
136 Follow Me 7a+ ** 23
137 Salida 7a ** 48
138 Gaudi Max 6a+ * 123
139 Cloud No.9 6a ** 136
140 El baile 5a ** 165
141 UB40 6a ** 317
142 Tropical Dreams 6a ** 501
143 Dear Renate 6a ** 330
144 Verlassen + betrogen 4c * 334
145 Banana Joe 6a 149
146 Universal 6a ** 239
147 Gufelwufel 5a ** 435
148 Seduction 6a * 269
149 Atlantis 6a * 121
150 Unknown 6 * 4b 40
151 Gutzufuss 3c 112
152 Snadengrot 4a 130
  The Toix Ridge
154 The Toix Ridge 5c ** 224
  Raco Del Corv
156 Clive's Redoubt 7a *** 17
157 Isla de encanta 6b *** 39
158 El Dorado 6a+ *** 182
159 Eldorado 2 6a 3
160 Sombre 7b 1
161 Müne 7b  
162 Ven Corada 6b ** 9
163 Vía Missing Link 6b+ *** 53
164 Ven Corada Right 6b+ *  
165 Luces Nocturnas 6b **  
166 Le Galleon 6a * 3
  Magical Mystery Tour
168 Rowland's Promised Land 6b ** 2
169 Rowland's Journey to Xanadu 6c *** 2
170 Journey to Xanadu 6c **  
171 Kubla Khan 7b *  
172 Dimage 6b+ *  
173 Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour 5a *** 449
174 Raptured Dreams 7a  
175 The Flame 7b  
176 Candelabra del Sol 8a ***  
Climb name Grade
177 Goliath 8a **  
178 Lady in Space 6b ** 1
179 Malice Aforethought 6b *  
180 Calamardo * 6c+ ** 2
  Pirates of the Caribbean
182 Calamardo
-
7a+ 1
183 La Senda de los Huesos 6b 1
184 Calypso (P1)
-
6c ** 3
185 Calypso 7b+ *  
186 El fin del mundo (P1)
-
7a+ ** 2
187 El Fin del Mundo 7c ** 1
188 Perla Negra 8a *** 1
189 Perla Negra (P1)
-
7a+ *** 1
190 Bo'Sun (P1) 6a ** 3
191 Boson 7b+ **  
192 Boson's Chair 7c *  
193 Tia Alma 7c **  
194 Murtogg 6c+ *  
195 Mullroy 7a **  
196 Tortuga Approach 7a *  
197 Tortuga Island 7c **  
198 Capt Barbossa 7a+ 3
199 Anna Maria la Pirata con Cojones 7c+ ** 2
200 Off the Edge of the Map 8a ***  
201 Keelhauled 7b *** 1
202 Plank Walk 6c * 4
203 Parle 6a+ *** 231
204 Miss Swan 6b * 2
205 Aztec Gold 6b+  
206 Welcome to the Caribbean 7c+ **  
207 Jack Sparrow 7a *  
208 Orange Men 8a+ **  
  Toix Este
210 Variante Juan Directa 5c 3
211 George 3c 35
212 Juan 4a 18
213 Quick 4a 15
214 Horst 4c * 75
215 Spatz 5a * 21
216 Puma 5c ** 23
217 Espolón Arta 4a 47
218 Eva's Traum 5c * 37
219 Koch Platte 5c * 46
220 Genid 5a * 48
221 Los Amigos 5c * 37
222 Ralf 3a * 9
223 Kulore 4a 20
224 Super Kulore 4a * 25
225 Hetti 4c * 69
226 Fluida Conexión Izquierda 6b 4
227 Fluida Conexión 6b+ * 9
228 Borro el toro 7a+ 3
229 Edward's Slab 7a 3
230 La tonta del bote 6b+ * 4
231 Vía de los fakiros 6b+ * 11
232 Hannah 6b ** 19
233 Hekur 5c * 37
234 Purpúreo 5a * 50
235 Spölli 5a * 100
236 Winter 6a ** 81
237 Verde 5c ** 123
238 "P" 5c ** 65
239 Vía la fina 5c ** 104
240 Plata 6a+ * 35
241 Vía pyramid 5a * 29
242 Sol y bon tiempo 6b+ * 20
243 Vía yuyuba Directa 6c * 11
244 Vía yuyuba 6a+ *** 85
245 King Cucudrulu 7a 10
246 El oso y el mandaron 6a+ ** 37
247 Verde dos 6a * 63
248 La ramuna arenosa 6a+ * 68
249 Going Solo 6c+ 15
250 Graphic Whore 6c+ 6
251 Amarillo 6a 24
252 Adiós Dali 7c+ *  
253 Maria 5+ * 5a 2
  Toix Norte
255 Route 1 7b **  
256 Por quien doblan 7b+ **  
257 Route 3 7a+ *** 4
258 S.S. 7b *** 2
259 La Niña 6b+  
260 La Novia 6b 1
261 La Viuda 6c 1
262 Piñón 7a 1
263 Route 9 7b *  
264 Route 10 7a+ *  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris Craggs