UKC

Climbs 258
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces all

Steve on Tortuga Island 7c © Orange House

Crag features

The Sierra de Toix is the impressive ridge that juts out into the sea between Calp to the north and Altea to the south. There are rock outcrops all along the ridge facing in all directions and there is also a massive sea cliff on the lower south side. 

Historically this was one of the first areas to be developed for sport climbing back in the 1980s and some of the routes (and gear) are showing their age. More recently the larger less-continuous faces have been developed with a series of long, often multi-pitch, routes with a mixture of threads and bolts for protection and often indicated by red-painted arrows.

One of the great appeals of the area is the wide variety of routes on offer in the mid and lower grades making it probably the most popular crag in the whole of the Costa Blanca. As a complete contrast to this the stunning sea cliffs on the southern side have a set of routes for the more adventurous climber looking for both sport and trad routes in a wild and atmospheric setting.

There is no doubt that the Toix area has a love or hate relationship with many visitors. What is clear though is that most people will visit here at least once during a one week stay in the area and almost certainly enjoy some excellent routes in a dramatic setting.

The 360˚ aspect means that it is almost always possible to find something to climb here whatever the weather. If it is raining inland it is often dry on Toix. Conversely, when the sun is beating down, it is possible to find some shade - for easier routes Toix Oeste in the morning and Toix Este in the afternoon are both worth considering. Its exposed position means that it can be windy.

Approach notes

Most of the various buttresses described here are reached from Maryvilla - the sprawling collection of holiday villas on the northern slopes of the ridge. The Maryvilla's turn-off is well-signed on the N332 to the south of Calp, just north of the Mascarat Gorge (note that entry is not allowed south-bound; continue a couple of hundred metres to where a lay-by allows you to turn around). Once you are in Maryvilla, stick to the approach descriptions listed with each crag and you should be okay. If you are driving up from further south, then take the Altea turn off (junction 64) and drive through the Mascarat Gorge to find Maryvilla on the right. There is also a useful parking spot in Pueblo Mascarat for access to Raco del Corv.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
The route just left The Whole of creation is named "Mussol fantastic"
Dave Sr - 04/Dec/13
The road to Toix TV has a wire across it now, just after the last villa, you have to park and walk. Maybe nearer to walk from Toix Oeste, but a bit harder?
Stu Tyrrell - 17/Jul/13
"Super Kulore" is one of the new routes to the left of Hetti at toix este - 8 pitches and 260m grade 4 - excellant tour of the new crag
auld al - 25/Jan/12
There is a new line between "Presto" and "the whole of creation", just left of 'the whole of creation'", goes at about 6a+/6b.
ASchwirtz - 02/Jan/12
how about sorting the routes into the sectors?
michael burrows - 29/Oct/11
there are now 4 new grade 5 climbs left of hetti on sector este about aound 30m long. also several grade 3/4 multi pitch which had just been put up, the names and grades are written on the rock, unfortunately i didn't write them down.. doh
michael burrows - 29/Oct/11
Toix Far Oeste: 5 brand new routes (2011) round to R of El endo, No14, p245 Rockfax. I've just done the second and third. Worth it and in the 5/5+ range. Names are at the bottom but no grades.
Paul Horan - 22/Mar/11
Big fan of Toix Far Oeste which is simple to reach and has lots of nice easy routes, perfect for beginners or people not wanting to push themselves too hard and it generally seems to be sunny and warm, even in winter.
magpie - 05/Jan/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Toix Oeste
2 Amarilla 5a * 21
3 Zorro Veloz 6b ** 21
4 Plata 6a ** 44
5 Green Route I 6a+ ** 62
6 A Black Route 7a ** 13
7 Red Route Directa 6c * 7
8 Red Route I 6b *** 80
9 Black Route 6b+ ** 28
10 Bernado 6a ** 10
11 Green Route II 6a ** 102
12 Espolón Limaban 5a *** 495
13 Dedi - UBSA 6a ** 104
14 Red Route II 5c ** 190
15 Del Plas 5c ** 88
16 Carlos 6a * 81
17 Blue Route 5c ** 101
18 Posi 6a * 48
19 Dire Straits 5c * 119
20 Dire Espolón 5a * 43
21 Espolón Gris 4c ** 307
22 Método tradicional 4a 39
23 Viejos tiempos 4c * 26
24 Tiempo Moderno 6a+ ** 61
25 Red Route III 6a * 75
26 Renov 5a ** 331
27 Manuel Andres 6a ** 59
28 Green Route lll 6a * 38
29 Maria Reyes 6b * 21
30 El Menú de Día 5c * 28
31 Black Route II 5a ** 177
32 Chabito 4c * 84
  Far Oeste
34 Dessie Done Dallas 3a ** 67
35 La roja una 3a * 432
36 Asombroso 3c * 575
37 Costilla 4c * 681
38 Dizzy Blondes 4b * 59
39 La roja dos 4a * 689
40 Bella ruta 4a * 651
41 Ocho fixe 4a * 655
42 Hamna 4a * 378
43 Uroma 3a * 202
44 La roja tres 5a * 891
45 Help for Heroes 6b * 155
46 La cagona 4c * 300
47 La roja quatro 3a * 414
48 Bernd 4a * 409
49 Senor Jones 4a * 527
50 Eve 4a * 122
51 Presto 5c * 444
52 Blunt 6b * 75
53 The Whole of Creation 6c ** 170
54 Enérgico 6a+ ** 453
55 La roja seis 5c * 599
56 El endo 4a * 371
57 Darola 3c 45
58 Gracias Uwa 4c 124
59 Pequeno Gecko 5a * 195
60 Grand Grill 5c * 227
61 Lobo 6a * 320
62 Ausgeschissn 4c * 179
63 Nurnburger 3c 12
64 Frankenplatte
-
4b 9
65 Trubach
-
3c 8
66 Haselstauden
-
4c 6
67 Calpe Grooves * 3a *** 7
68 Benidorm Boogie * 4c ** 6
  Toix Placa
70 Cliber 5c ** 188
71 Ruwa 5a * 77
72 Oma Sus 5a ** 155
73 Opa Mus 5a 11
74 Lofi 4c * 143
75 Lara 4c ** 192
76 Anto 5a * 78
77 Rosa
-
4b 10
78 Maria
-
3c 26
79 Ana 4c ** 182
80 Hewa 5a * 60
81 Taca Ploix 6a+ 1
82 Mushu 6a * 61
83 Ghost in the Shell 6b+ ** 43
84 Horst (TP)
-
5a * 10
85 Jan 4c ** 88
86 Eva 4c 15
87 Los Urbanos 4c * 81
88 Anbea 4a 32
Climb name Grade
89 Jonas 4a 58
90 Alasdair 3c * 84
91 Kurzer Genus 5a * 81
92 Kalk Svott Wiehnul 6b * 104
93 Heavy Boyfriend 6a+ * 49
94 Rudy Caroll 6a+ * 39
95 Coming back to Life 6c ** 83
96 Thalia 6b+ * 174
97 No Name 6a+ ** 219
98 Pegasus 6a * 152
99 Cicky Bugger 5c * 140
100 Heaven Is... 5c ** 236
101 Johanna 5a ** 195
102 Heti 4c * 118
103 4 You 6a ** 129
104 Semi Dulce 5c * 82
105 Steinbeisser 6a * 85
106 Fantasia 6a 37
107 For my son Jens 6b+ * 16
108 For my son Jens (Initial Rib) 5b 2
109 Aladdin 6c 7
110 Hafa 4c * 10
111 Hova 4c ** 53
112 Noldis 5c * 17
  Toix TV - Amphitheatre
114 Scorpion 7a+ * 4
115 Cobra (P1) 7b *** 4
116 Cobra 8a ** 1
117 Short and Sweet 5c ** 131
118 Monkey Wall 6c *** 118
119 Painted Wall 6b+ ** 145
120 Max Headroom 7c+ **  
121 Mongoose 7c **  
122 Dynosaurus 7b ** 10
123 Gripper 6a+ ** 90
124 Chain Lane 6a+ * 37
125 Nut Route 5a 3
126 Chunkies 4c 26
  Toix TV - Tropical Dreams
128 Reigen Bogen 5c 8
129 Daddycool 6a+ * 48
130 Terminator 6c+ * 24
131 Follow Me 7a+ ** 20
132 Salida 7a ** 45
133 Gaudi Max 6a+ * 113
134 Cloud No.9 6a ** 113
135 El baile 5a ** 140
136 UB40 6a ** 246
137 Tropical Dreams 6a ** 412
138 Dear Renate 6a ** 272
139 Verlassen + betrogen 4c * 287
140 Banana Joe 6a 129
141 Universal 6a ** 186
142 Gufelwufel 5a ** 348
143 Seduction 6a * 223
144 Atlantis 6a * 83
145 Gutzufuss 3c 92
146 Snadengrot 4a 102
147 Unknown 6 * 4b 8
  The Toix Ridge
149 The Toix Ridge 5c ** 136
  Raco Del Corv
151 Clive's Redoubt 7a *** 16
152 Isla de encanta 6b *** 27
153 El Dorado 6a+ *** 131
154 Eldorado 2 6a 2
155 Sombre 7b 1
156 Müne 7b  
157 Ven Corada 6b ** 9
158 Vía Missing Link 6b+ *** 45
159 Ven Corada Right 6b+ *  
160 Luces Nocturnas 6b **  
161 Le Galleon 6a * 2
  Magical Mystery Tour
163 Rowland's Promised Land 6b ** 2
164 Rowland's Journey to Xanadu 6c *** 2
165 Journey to Xanadu 6c **  
166 Kubla Khan 7b *  
167 Dimage 6b+ *  
168 Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour 5a *** 287
169 Raptured Dreams 7a  
170 The Flame 7b  
171 Candelabra del Sol 8a ***  
172 Goliath 8a **  
173 Lady in Space 6b ** 1
174 Malice Aforethought 6b *  
175 Calamardo * 6c+ ** 2
Climb name Grade
  Pirates of the Caribbean
177 Calamardo
-
7a+ 1
178 La Senda de los Huesos 6b 1
179 Calypso (P1)
-
6c ** 3
180 Calypso 7b+ *  
181 El fin del mundo (P1)
-
7a+ ** 2
182 El Fin del Mundo 7c ** 1
183 Perla Negra 8a *** 1
184 Perla Negra (P1)
-
7a+ *** 1
185 Bo'Sun (P1) 6a ** 3
186 Boson 7b+ **  
187 Boson's Chair 7c *  
188 Tia Alma 7c **  
189 Murtogg 6c+ *  
190 Mullroy 7a **  
191 Tortuga Approach 7a *  
192 Tortuga Island 7c **  
193 Capt Barbossa 7a+ 3
194 Anna Maria la Pirata con Cojones 7c+ ** 2
195 Off the Edge of the Map 8a ***  
196 Keelhauled 7b *** 1
197 Plank Walk 6c * 4
198 Parle 6a+ *** 140
199 Miss Swan 6b * 2
200 Aztec Gold 6b+  
201 Welcome to the Caribbean 7c+ **  
202 Jack Sparrow 7a *  
203 Orange Men 8a+ **  
  Toix Este
205 Variante Juan Directa 5c 2
206 George 3c 26
207 Juan 4a 13
208 Quick 4a 11
209 Horst 4c * 63
210 Spatz 5a * 13
211 Puma 5c ** 11
212 Espolón Arta 4a 28
213 Eva's Traum 5c * 14
214 Koch Platte 5c * 21
215 Genid 5a * 25
216 Los Amigos 5c * 18
217 Ralf 3a * 8
218 Kulore 4a 9
219 Super Kulore 4a * 22
220 Hetti 4c * 61
221 Fluida Conexión Izquierda 6b 4
222 Fluida Conexión 6b+ * 7
223 Borro el toro 7a+ 3
224 Edward's Slab 7a 2
225 La tonta del bote 6b+ * 4
226 Vía de los fakiros 6b+ * 8
227 Hannah 6b ** 15
228 Hekur 5c * 19
229 Purpúreo 5a * 43
230 Spölli 5a * 79
231 Winter 6a ** 60
232 Verde 5c ** 94
233 "P" 5c ** 52
234 Vía la fina 5c ** 92
235 Plata 6a+ * 33
236 Vía pyramid 5a * 24
237 Sol y bon tiempo 6b+ * 17
238 Vía yuyuba Directa 6c * 6
239 Vía yuyuba 6a+ *** 64
240 King Cucudrulu 7a 8
241 El oso y el mandaron 6a+ ** 30
242 Verde dos 6a * 53
243 La ramuna arenosa 6a+ * 53
244 Going Solo 6c+ 13
245 Graphic Whore 6c+ 6
246 Amarillo 6a 24
247 Adiós Dali 7c+ *  
248 Antonia + Olivia * 5b * 1
  Toix Norte
250 Route 1 7b **  
251 Por quien doblan 7b+ **  
252 Route 3 7a+ *** 3
253 S.S. 7b *** 2
254 La Niña 6b+  
255 La Novia 6b 1
256 La Viuda 6c 1
257 Piñón 7a 1
258 Route 9 7b *  
259 Route 10 7a+ *  
260 Unknown 4 * 4a 7
261 Unknown 5 * 5b ** 9
262 Cilber * 5c ** 5
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris Craggs