Climbs 258
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces all

Steve on Tortuga Island 7c © Orange House

Crag features

The Sierra de Toix is the impressive ridge that juts out into the sea between Calp to the north and Altea to the south. There are rock outcrops all along the ridge facing in all directions and there is also a massive sea cliff on the lower south side. 

Historically this was one of the first areas to be developed for sport climbing back in the 1980s and some of the routes (and gear) are showing their age. More recently the larger less-continuous faces have been developed with a series of long, often multi-pitch, routes with a mixture of threads and bolts for protection and often indicated by red-painted arrows.

One of the great appeals of the area is the wide variety of routes on offer in the mid and lower grades making it probably the most popular crag in the whole of the Costa Blanca. As a complete contrast to this the stunning sea cliffs on the southern side have a set of routes for the more adventurous climber looking for both sport and trad routes in a wild and atmospheric setting.

There is no doubt that the Toix area has a love or hate relationship with many visitors. What is clear though is that most people will visit here at least once during a one week stay in the area and almost certainly enjoy some excellent routes in a dramatic setting.

The 360˚ aspect means that it is almost always possible to find something to climb here whatever the weather. If it is raining inland it is often dry on Toix. Conversely, when the sun is beating down, it is possible to find some shade - for easier routes Toix Oeste in the morning and Toix Este in the afternoon are both worth considering. Its exposed position means that it can be windy.

Approach notes

Most of the various buttresses described here are reached from Maryvilla - the sprawling collection of holiday villas on the northern slopes of the ridge. The Maryvilla's turn-off is well-signed on the N332 to the south of Calp, just north of the Mascarat Gorge (note that entry is not allowed south-bound; continue a couple of hundred metres to where a lay-by allows you to turn around). Once you are in Maryvilla, stick to the approach descriptions listed with each crag and you should be okay. If you are driving up from further south, then take the Altea turn off (junction 64) and drive through the Mascarat Gorge to find Maryvilla on the right. There is also a useful parking spot in Pueblo Mascarat for access to Raco del Corv.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
The route just left The Whole of creation is named "Mussol fantastic"
Dave Sr - 04/Dec/13
The road to Toix TV has a wire across it now, just after the last villa, you have to park and walk. Maybe nearer to walk from Toix Oeste, but a bit harder?
Stu Tyrrell - 17/Jul/13
"Super Kulore" is one of the new routes to the left of Hetti at toix este - 8 pitches and 260m grade 4 - excellant tour of the new crag
auld al - 25/Jan/12
There is a new line between "Presto" and "the whole of creation", just left of 'the whole of creation'", goes at about 6a+/6b.
ASchwirtz - 02/Jan/12
how about sorting the routes into the sectors?
michael burrows - 29/Oct/11
there are now 4 new grade 5 climbs left of hetti on sector este about aound 30m long. also several grade 3/4 multi pitch which had just been put up, the names and grades are written on the rock, unfortunately i didn't write them down.. doh
michael burrows - 29/Oct/11
Toix Far Oeste: 5 brand new routes (2011) round to R of El endo, No14, p245 Rockfax. I've just done the second and third. Worth it and in the 5/5+ range. Names are at the bottom but no grades.
Paul Horan - 22/Mar/11
Big fan of Toix Far Oeste which is simple to reach and has lots of nice easy routes, perfect for beginners or people not wanting to push themselves too hard and it generally seems to be sunny and warm, even in winter.
magpie - 05/Jan/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Toix Oeste 
2Amarilla5a *18
3Zorro Veloz6b **14
4Plata6a **41
5Green Route I6a+ **57
6A Black Route7a **12
7Red Route Directa6c *6
8Red Route I6b ***82
9Black Route6b+ **27
10Bernado6a **7
11Green Route II6a **97
12Espolón Limaban5a ***474
13Dedi - UBSA6a **92
14Red Route II5c **181
15Del Plas5c **83
16Carlos6a *79
17Blue Route5c **98
18Posi6a *44
19Dire Straits5c *109
20Dire Espolón5a *38
21Espolón Gris4c **287
22Método tradicional4a 39
23Viejos tiempos4c *21
24Tiempo Moderno6a+ **55
25Red Route III6a *73
26Renov5a **320
27Manuel Andres6a **52
28Green Route lll6a *36
29Maria Reyes6b *18
30El Menú de Día5c *28
31Black Route II5a **168
32Chabito4c *76
 Far Oeste 
34Dessie Done Dallas3 **43
35La roja una3 *392
36Asombroso3+ *521
37Costilla4c *619
38Dizzy Blondes4b *21
39La roja dos4a *623
40Bella ruta4a *590
41Ocho fixe4a *593
42Hamna4a *320
43Uroma3 *171
44La roja tres5a *756
45Help for Heroes6b *124
46La cagona4c *238
47La roja quatro3 *359
48Bernd4a *301
49Senor Jones4a *427
50Eve4a *115
51Presto5c *360
52Blunt6b *64
53The Whole of Creation6c **154
54Enérgico6a+ **402
55La roja seis5c *514
56El endo4a *342
57Darola3+ 37
58Gracias Uwa4c 114
59Pequeno Gecko5a *162
60Grand Grill5c *182
61Lobo6a *258
62Ausgeschissn4c *151
63Nurnburger3+ 6
64Frankenplatte
-
4b 5
65Trubach
-
3+ 4
66Haselstauden
-
4c 4
 Toix Placa 
68Cliber5c **164
69Ruwa5a *73
70Oma Sus5a **155
71Opa Mus5a 11
72Lofi4c *136
73Lara4c **180
74Anto5a *71
75Rosa
-
4b 10
76Maria
-
3+ 26
77Ana4c **165
78Hewa5a *57
79Taca Ploix6a+ 1
80Mushu6a *57
81Ghost in the Shell6b+ **34
82Horst (TP)
-
5a *10
83Jan4c **77
84Eva4c 12
85Los Urbanos4c *76
86Anbea4a 32
87Jonas4a 45
88Alasdair3+ *71
89Kurzer Genus5a *66
90Kalk Svott Wiehnul6b *94
91Heavy Boyfriend6a+ *36
92Rudy Caroll6a+ *29
93Coming back to Life6c **83
94Thalia6b+ *162
95No Name6a+ **203
96Pegasus6a *141
97Cicky Bugger5c *129
98Heaven Is...5c **219
99Johanna5a **178
100Heti4c *109
1014 You6a **122
102Semi Dulce5c *73
103Steinbeisser6a *78
104Fantasia6a 35
105For my son Jens6b+ *14
106For my son Jens (Initial Rib)5b 2
107Aladdin6c 6
108Hafa4c *8
109Hova4c **49
110Noldis5c *17
 Toix TV - Amphitheatre 
112Scorpion7a+ *3
113Cobra (P1)7b ***4
114Cobra8a **1
115Short and Sweet5c **123
116Monkey Wall6c ***106
117Painted Wall6b+ **130
118Max Headroom7c+ ** 
119Mongoose7c ** 
120Dynosaurus7b **10
121Gripper6a+ **83
122Chain Lane6a+ *35
123Nut Route5a 3
124Chunkies4c 28
 Toix TV - Tropical Dreams 
126Reigen Bogen5c 9
127Daddycool6a+ *42
128Terminator6c+ *22
129Follow Me7a+ **20
130Salida7a **43
131Gaudi Max6a+ *111
132Cloud No.96a **107
133El baile5a **129
134UB406a **221
135Tropical Dreams6a **376
136Dear Renate6a **246
137Verlassen + betrogen4c *275
138Banana Joe6a 121
139Universal6a **169
140Gufelwufel5a **319
141Seduction6a *204
142Atlantis6a *64
143Gutzufuss3+ 81
144Snadengrot4a 81
145Unknown 6 *4b 2
 The Toix Ridge 
147The Toix Ridge5c **113
 Raco Del Corv 
149Clive's Redoubt7a ***12
150Isla de encanta6b ***27
151El Dorado6a+ ***118
152Eldorado 26a 1
153Sombre7b 1
154Müne7b  
155Ven Corada6b **7
156Vía Missing Link6b+ ***39
157Ven Corada Right6b+ * 
158Luces Nocturnas6b ** 
159Le Galleon6a *2
 Magical Mystery Tour 
161Rowland's Promised Land6b **2
162Rowland's Journey to Xanadu6c ***2
163Journey to Xanadu6c ** 
164Kubla Khan7b * 
165Dimage6b+ * 
166Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour5a ***253
167Raptured Dreams7a  
168The Flame7b  
169Candelabra del Sol8a *** 
170Goliath8a ** 
171Lady in Space6b **1
172Malice Aforethought6b * 
 Pirates of the Caribbean 
174Calamardo
-
F7a+ 1
175La Senda de los Huesos6b 1
176Calypso (P1)
-
6c **2
177Calypso7b+ *1
178El fin del mundo (P1)
-
7a+ **2
179El Fin del Mundo7c **1
180Perla Negra8a ***1
181Perla Negra (P1)
-
7a+ ***1
182Bo'Sun (P1)6a **3
183Boson7b+ **1
184Boson's Chair7c * 
185Tia Alma7c ** 
186Murtogg6c+ * 
187Mullroy7a ** 
188Tortuga Approach7a * 
189Tortuga Island7c ** 
190Capt Barbossa7a+ 3
191Anna Maria la Pirata con Cojones7c+ **2
192Off the Edge of the Map8a *** 
193Keelhauled7b ***1
194Plank Walk6c *4
195Parle6a+ ***132
196Miss Swan6b * 
197Aztec Gold6b+  
198Welcome to the Caribbean7c+ ** 
199Jack Sparrow7a * 
200Orange Men8a+ ** 
 Toix Este 
202Variante Juan Directa5c 3
203George3+ 23
204Juan4a 9
205Quick4a 8
206Horst4c *56
207Spatz5a *9
208Puma5c **10
209Espolón Arta4a 22
210Eva's Traum5c *13
211Koch Platte5c *18
212Genid5a *21
213Los Amigos5c *18
214Ralf3 *5
215Kulore4a 7
216Super Kulore4a *19
217Hetti4c *59
218Fluida Conexión Izquierda6b 4
219Fluida Conexión6b+ *7
220Borro el toro7a+ 3
221Edward's Slab7a 2
222La tonta del bote6b+ *4
223Vía de los fakiros6b+ *7
224Hannah6b **14
225Hekur5c *12
226Purpúreo5a *42
227Spölli5a *67
228Winter6a **51
229Verde5c **80
230"P"5c **49
231Vía la fina5c **81
232Plata6a+ *33
233Vía pyramid5a *23
234Sol y bon tiempo6b+ *13
235Vía yuyuba Directa6c *6
236Vía yuyuba6a+ ***58
237King Cucudrulu7a 7
238El oso y el mandaron6a+ **28
239Verde dos6a *51
240La ramuna arenosa6a+ *43
241Going Solo6c+ 12
242Graphic Whore6c+ 4
243Amarillo6a 23
244Adiós Dali7c+ * 
 Toix Norte 
246Route 17b ** 
247Por quien doblan7b+ ** 
248Route 37a+ ***2
249S.S.7b ***2
250La Niña6b+  
251La Novia6b 1
252La Viuda6c 1
253Piñón7a 1
254Route 97b * 
255Route 107a+ * 
256Unknown 4 *4a 7
257Unknown 5 *5b **5
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris Craggs