Climbs 258
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces all

Steve on Tortuga Island 7c © Orange House

Crag features

The Sierra de Toix is the impressive ridge that juts out into the sea between Calp to the north and Altea to the south. There are rock outcrops all along the ridge facing in all directions and there is also a massive sea cliff on the lower south side. 

Historically this was one of the first areas to be developed for sport climbing back in the 1980s and some of the routes (and gear) are showing their age. More recently the larger less-continuous faces have been developed with a series of long, often multi-pitch, routes with a mixture of threads and bolts for protection and often indicated by red-painted arrows.

One of the great appeals of the area is the wide variety of routes on offer in the mid and lower grades making it probably the most popular crag in the whole of the Costa Blanca. As a complete contrast to this the stunning sea cliffs on the southern side have a set of routes for the more adventurous climber looking for both sport and trad routes in a wild and atmospheric setting.

There is no doubt that the Toix area has a love or hate relationship with many visitors. What is clear though is that most people will visit here at least once during a one week stay in the area and almost certainly enjoy some excellent routes in a dramatic setting.

The 360˚ aspect means that it is almost always possible to find something to climb here whatever the weather. If it is raining inland it is often dry on Toix. Conversely, when the sun is beating down, it is possible to find some shade - for easier routes Toix Oeste in the morning and Toix Este in the afternoon are both worth considering. Its exposed position means that it can be windy.

Approach notes

Most of the various buttresses described here are reached from Maryvilla - the sprawling collection of holiday villas on the northern slopes of the ridge. The Maryvilla's turn-off is well-signed on the N332 to the south of Calp, just north of the Mascarat Gorge (note that entry is not allowed south-bound; continue a couple of hundred metres to where a lay-by allows you to turn around). Once you are in Maryvilla, stick to the approach descriptions listed with each crag and you should be okay. If you are driving up from further south, then take the Altea turn off (junction 64) and drive through the Mascarat Gorge to find Maryvilla on the right. There is also a useful parking spot in Pueblo Mascarat for access to Raco del Corv.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
The route just left The Whole of creation is named "Mussol fantastic"
Dave Sr - 04/Dec/13
The road to Toix TV has a wire across it now, just after the last villa, you have to park and walk. Maybe nearer to walk from Toix Oeste, but a bit harder?
Stu Tyrrell - 17/Jul/13
"Super Kulore" is one of the new routes to the left of Hetti at toix este - 8 pitches and 260m grade 4 - excellant tour of the new crag
auld al - 25/Jan/12
There is a new line between "Presto" and "the whole of creation", just left of 'the whole of creation'", goes at about 6a+/6b.
ASchwirtz - 02/Jan/12
how about sorting the routes into the sectors?
michael burrows - 29/Oct/11
there are now 4 new grade 5 climbs left of hetti on sector este about aound 30m long. also several grade 3/4 multi pitch which had just been put up, the names and grades are written on the rock, unfortunately i didn't write them down.. doh
michael burrows - 29/Oct/11
Toix Far Oeste: 5 brand new routes (2011) round to R of El endo, No14, p245 Rockfax. I've just done the second and third. Worth it and in the 5/5+ range. Names are at the bottom but no grades.
Paul Horan - 22/Mar/11
Big fan of Toix Far Oeste which is simple to reach and has lots of nice easy routes, perfect for beginners or people not wanting to push themselves too hard and it generally seems to be sunny and warm, even in winter.
magpie - 05/Jan/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Toix Oeste
2 Amarilla 5a * 18
3 Zorro Veloz 6b ** 14
4 Plata 6a ** 41
5 Green Route I 6a+ ** 58
6 A Black Route 7a ** 12
7 Red Route Directa 6c * 6
8 Red Route I 6b *** 76
9 Black Route 6b+ ** 26
10 Bernado 6a ** 7
11 Green Route II 6a ** 95
12 Espolón Limaban 5a *** 482
13 Dedi - UBSA 6a ** 94
14 Red Route II 5c ** 184
15 Del Plas 5c ** 79
16 Carlos 6a * 78
17 Blue Route 5c ** 98
18 Posi 6a * 43
19 Dire Straits 5c * 110
20 Dire Espolón 5a * 39
21 Espolón Gris 4c ** 293
22 Método tradicional 4a 39
23 Viejos tiempos 4c * 20
24 Tiempo Moderno 6a+ ** 56
25 Red Route III 6a * 73
26 Renov 5a ** 314
27 Manuel Andres 6a ** 51
28 Green Route lll 6a * 36
29 Maria Reyes 6b * 17
30 El Menú de Día 5c * 27
31 Black Route II 5a ** 168
32 Chabito 4c * 74
  Far Oeste
34 Dessie Done Dallas 3 ** 42
35 La roja una 3 * 394
36 Asombroso 3+ * 522
37 Costilla 4c * 627
38 Dizzy Blondes 4b * 21
39 La roja dos 4a * 632
40 Bella ruta 4a * 595
41 Ocho fixe 4a * 607
42 Hamna 4a * 330
43 Uroma 3 * 174
44 La roja tres 5a * 769
45 Help for Heroes 6b * 126
46 La cagona 4c * 244
47 La roja quatro 3 * 364
48 Bernd 4a * 306
49 Senor Jones 4a * 433
50 Eve 4a * 114
51 Presto 5c * 366
52 Blunt 6b * 64
53 The Whole of Creation 6c ** 154
54 Enérgico 6a+ ** 410
55 La roja seis 5c * 525
56 El endo 4a * 341
57 Darola 3+ 36
58 Gracias Uwa 4c 116
59 Pequeno Gecko 5a * 164
60 Grand Grill 5c * 183
61 Lobo 6a * 264
62 Ausgeschissn 4c * 156
63 Nurnburger 3+ 6
64 Frankenplatte
-
4b 5
65 Trubach
-
3+ 4
66 Haselstauden
-
4c 4
  Toix Placa
68 Cliber 5c ** 164
69 Ruwa 5a * 70
70 Oma Sus 5a ** 155
71 Opa Mus 5a 11
72 Lofi 4c * 133
73 Lara 4c ** 178
74 Anto 5a * 70
75 Rosa
-
4b 9
76 Maria
-
3+ 26
77 Ana 4c ** 169
78 Hewa 5a * 58
79 Taca Ploix 6a+ 1
80 Mushu 6a * 55
81 Ghost in the Shell 6b+ ** 34
82 Horst (TP)
-
5a * 8
83 Jan 4c ** 76
84 Eva 4c 10
85 Los Urbanos 4c * 74
86 Anbea 4a 32
87 Jonas 4a 44
88 Alasdair 3+ * 71
89 Kurzer Genus 5a * 64
90 Kalk Svott Wiehnul 6b * 95
91 Heavy Boyfriend 6a+ * 35
92 Rudy Caroll 6a+ * 28
93 Coming back to Life 6c ** 82
94 Thalia 6b+ * 162
95 No Name 6a+ ** 206
96 Pegasus 6a * 141
97 Cicky Bugger 5c * 131
98 Heaven Is... 5c ** 216
99 Johanna 5a ** 178
100 Heti 4c * 107
101 4 You 6a ** 120
102 Semi Dulce 5c * 76
103 Steinbeisser 6a * 79
104 Fantasia 6a 35
105 For my son Jens 6b+ * 14
106 For my son Jens (Initial Rib) 5b 2
107 Aladdin 6c 6
108 Hafa 4c * 8
109 Hova 4c ** 48
110 Noldis 5c * 17
  Toix TV - Amphitheatre
112 Scorpion 7a+ * 3
113 Cobra (P1) 7b *** 4
114 Cobra 8a ** 1
115 Short and Sweet 5c ** 124
116 Monkey Wall 6c *** 110
117 Painted Wall 6b+ ** 131
118 Max Headroom 7c+ **  
119 Mongoose 7c **  
120 Dynosaurus 7b ** 10
121 Gripper 6a+ ** 83
122 Chain Lane 6a+ * 34
123 Nut Route 5a 3
124 Chunkies 4c 26
  Toix TV - Tropical Dreams
126 Reigen Bogen 5c 8
127 Daddycool 6a+ * 43
128 Terminator 6c+ * 22
129 Follow Me 7a+ ** 20
130 Salida 7a ** 40
131 Gaudi Max 6a+ * 109
132 Cloud No.9 6a ** 103
133 El baile 5a ** 131
134 UB40 6a ** 224
135 Tropical Dreams 6a ** 383
136 Dear Renate 6a ** 251
137 Verlassen + betrogen 4c * 277
138 Banana Joe 6a 126
139 Universal 6a ** 167
140 Gufelwufel 5a ** 319
141 Seduction 6a * 206
142 Atlantis 6a * 67
143 Gutzufuss 3+ 80
144 Snadengrot 4a 81
145 Unknown 6 * 4b 3
  The Toix Ridge
147 The Toix Ridge 5c ** 115
  Raco Del Corv
149 Clive's Redoubt 7a *** 11
150 Isla de encanta 6b *** 23
151 El Dorado 6a+ *** 120
152 Eldorado 2 6a 1
153 Sombre 7b 1
154 Müne 7b  
155 Ven Corada 6b ** 7
156 Vía Missing Link 6b+ *** 33
157 Ven Corada Right 6b+ *  
158 Luces Nocturnas 6b **  
159 Le Galleon 6a * 2
  Magical Mystery Tour
161 Rowland's Promised Land 6b ** 2
162 Rowland's Journey to Xanadu 6c *** 2
163 Journey to Xanadu 6c **  
164 Kubla Khan 7b *  
165 Dimage 6b+ *  
166 Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour 5a *** 257
167 Raptured Dreams 7a  
168 The Flame 7b  
169 Candelabra del Sol 8a ***  
170 Goliath 8a **  
171 Lady in Space 6b ** 1
172 Malice Aforethought 6b *  
  Pirates of the Caribbean
174 Calamardo
-
7a+ 1
175 La Senda de los Huesos 6b 1
176 Calypso (P1)
-
6c ** 2
177 Calypso 7b+ * 1
178 El fin del mundo (P1)
-
7a+ ** 2
179 El Fin del Mundo 7c ** 1
180 Perla Negra 8a *** 1
181 Perla Negra (P1)
-
7a+ *** 1
182 Bo'Sun (P1) 6a ** 3
183 Boson 7b+ ** 1
184 Boson's Chair 7c *  
185 Tia Alma 7c **  
186 Murtogg 6c+ *  
187 Mullroy 7a **  
188 Tortuga Approach 7a *  
189 Tortuga Island 7c **  
190 Capt Barbossa 7a+ 3
191 Anna Maria la Pirata con Cojones 7c+ ** 2
192 Off the Edge of the Map 8a ***  
193 Keelhauled 7b *** 1
194 Plank Walk 6c * 4
195 Parle 6a+ *** 91
196 Miss Swan 6b *  
197 Aztec Gold 6b+  
198 Welcome to the Caribbean 7c+ **  
199 Jack Sparrow 7a *  
200 Orange Men 8a+ **  
  Toix Este
202 Variante Juan Directa 5c 2
203 George 3+ 21
204 Juan 4a 9
205 Quick 4a 8
206 Horst 4c * 52
207 Spatz 5a * 9
208 Puma 5c ** 10
209 Espolón Arta 4a 21
210 Eva's Traum 5c * 11
211 Koch Platte 5c * 19
212 Genid 5a * 19
213 Los Amigos 5c * 17
214 Ralf 3 * 5
215 Kulore 4a 7
216 Super Kulore 4a * 18
217 Hetti 4c * 59
218 Fluida Conexión Izquierda 6b 4
219 Fluida Conexión 6b+ * 7
220 Borro el toro 7a+ 3
221 Edward's Slab 7a 2
222 La tonta del bote 6b+ * 4
223 Vía de los fakiros 6b+ * 7
224 Hannah 6b ** 14
225 Hekur 5c * 12
226 Purpúreo 5a * 43
227 Spölli 5a * 68
228 Winter 6a ** 52
229 Verde 5c ** 82
230 "P" 5c ** 47
231 Vía la fina 5c ** 81
232 Plata 6a+ * 31
233 Vía pyramid 5a * 23
234 Sol y bon tiempo 6b+ * 14
235 Vía yuyuba Directa 6c * 6
236 Vía yuyuba 6a+ *** 59
237 King Cucudrulu 7a 7
238 El oso y el mandaron 6a+ ** 28
239 Verde dos 6a * 50
240 La ramuna arenosa 6a+ * 44
241 Going Solo 6c+ 12
242 Graphic Whore 6c+ 4
243 Amarillo 6a 23
244 Adiós Dali 7c+ *  
  Toix Norte
246 Route 1 7b **  
247 Por quien doblan 7b+ **  
248 Route 3 7a+ *** 2
249 S.S. 7b *** 2
250 La Niña 6b+  
251 La Novia 6b 1
252 La Viuda 6c 1
253 Piñón 7a 1
254 Route 9 7b *  
255 Route 10 7a+ *  
256 Unknown 4 * 4a 7
257 Unknown 5 * 5b ** 5
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris Craggs