UKC

Climbs 258
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces all

Steve on Tortuga Island 7c © Orange House

Crag features

The Sierra de Toix is the impressive ridge that juts out into the sea between Calp to the north and Altea to the south. There are rock outcrops all along the ridge facing in all directions and there is also a massive sea cliff on the lower south side. 

Historically this was one of the first areas to be developed for sport climbing back in the 1980s and some of the routes (and gear) are showing their age. More recently the larger less-continuous faces have been developed with a series of long, often multi-pitch, routes with a mixture of threads and bolts for protection and often indicated by red-painted arrows.

One of the great appeals of the area is the wide variety of routes on offer in the mid and lower grades making it probably the most popular crag in the whole of the Costa Blanca. As a complete contrast to this the stunning sea cliffs on the southern side have a set of routes for the more adventurous climber looking for both sport and trad routes in a wild and atmospheric setting.

There is no doubt that the Toix area has a love or hate relationship with many visitors. What is clear though is that most people will visit here at least once during a one week stay in the area and almost certainly enjoy some excellent routes in a dramatic setting.

The 360˚ aspect means that it is almost always possible to find something to climb here whatever the weather. If it is raining inland it is often dry on Toix. Conversely, when the sun is beating down, it is possible to find some shade - for easier routes Toix Oeste in the morning and Toix Este in the afternoon are both worth considering. Its exposed position means that it can be windy.

Approach notes

Most of the various buttresses described here are reached from Maryvilla - the sprawling collection of holiday villas on the northern slopes of the ridge. The Maryvilla's turn-off is well-signed on the N332 to the south of Calp, just north of the Mascarat Gorge (note that entry is not allowed south-bound; continue a couple of hundred metres to where a lay-by allows you to turn around). Once you are in Maryvilla, stick to the approach descriptions listed with each crag and you should be okay. If you are driving up from further south, then take the Altea turn off (junction 64) and drive through the Mascarat Gorge to find Maryvilla on the right. There is also a useful parking spot in Pueblo Mascarat for access to Raco del Corv.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
The route just left The Whole of creation is named "Mussol fantastic"
Dave Sr - 04/Dec/13
The road to Toix TV has a wire across it now, just after the last villa, you have to park and walk. Maybe nearer to walk from Toix Oeste, but a bit harder?
Stu Tyrrell - 17/Jul/13
"Super Kulore" is one of the new routes to the left of Hetti at toix este - 8 pitches and 260m grade 4 - excellant tour of the new crag
auld al - 25/Jan/12
There is a new line between "Presto" and "the whole of creation", just left of 'the whole of creation'", goes at about 6a+/6b.
ASchwirtz - 02/Jan/12
how about sorting the routes into the sectors?
michael burrows - 29/Oct/11
there are now 4 new grade 5 climbs left of hetti on sector este about aound 30m long. also several grade 3/4 multi pitch which had just been put up, the names and grades are written on the rock, unfortunately i didn't write them down.. doh
michael burrows - 29/Oct/11
Toix Far Oeste: 5 brand new routes (2011) round to R of El endo, No14, p245 Rockfax. I've just done the second and third. Worth it and in the 5/5+ range. Names are at the bottom but no grades.
Paul Horan - 22/Mar/11
Big fan of Toix Far Oeste which is simple to reach and has lots of nice easy routes, perfect for beginners or people not wanting to push themselves too hard and it generally seems to be sunny and warm, even in winter.
magpie - 05/Jan/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Toix Oeste
2 Amarilla 5a * 21
3 Zorro Veloz 6b ** 21
4 Plata 6a ** 43
5 Green Route I 6a+ ** 59
6 A Black Route 7a ** 12
7 Red Route Directa 6c * 7
8 Red Route I 6b *** 78
9 Black Route 6b+ ** 27
10 Bernado 6a ** 10
11 Green Route II 6a ** 102
12 Espolón Limaban 5a *** 518
13 Dedi - UBSA 6a ** 101
14 Red Route II 5c ** 192
15 Del Plas 5c ** 84
16 Carlos 6a * 80
17 Blue Route 5c ** 100
18 Posi 6a * 45
19 Dire Straits 5c * 117
20 Dire Espolón 5a * 43
21 Espolón Gris 4c ** 299
22 Método tradicional 4a 39
23 Viejos tiempos 4c * 26
24 Tiempo Moderno 6a+ ** 59
25 Red Route III 6a * 75
26 Renov 5a ** 330
27 Manuel Andres 6a ** 57
28 Green Route lll 6a * 36
29 Maria Reyes 6b * 19
30 El Menú de Día 5c * 27
31 Black Route II 5a ** 176
32 Chabito 4c * 81
  Far Oeste
34 Dessie Done Dallas 3a ** 57
35 La roja una 3a * 416
36 Asombroso 3c * 548
37 Costilla 4c * 654
38 Dizzy Blondes 4b * 44
39 La roja dos 4a * 667
40 Bella ruta 4a * 633
41 Ocho fixe 4a * 635
42 Hamna 4a * 359
43 Uroma 3a * 188
44 La roja tres 5a * 863
45 Help for Heroes 6b * 148
46 La cagona 4c * 280
47 La roja quatro 3a * 385
48 Bernd 4a * 381
49 Senor Jones 4a * 503
50 Eve 4a * 119
51 Presto 5c * 431
52 Blunt 6b * 71
53 The Whole of Creation 6c ** 165
54 Enérgico 6a+ ** 441
55 La roja seis 5c * 586
56 El endo 4a * 362
57 Darola 3c 45
58 Gracias Uwa 4c 119
59 Pequeno Gecko 5a * 183
60 Grand Grill 5c * 210
61 Lobo 6a * 301
62 Ausgeschissn 4c * 173
63 Nurnburger 3c 12
64 Frankenplatte
-
4b 9
65 Trubach
-
3c 7
66 Haselstauden
-
4c 6
  Toix Placa
68 Cliber 5c ** 183
69 Ruwa 5a * 78
70 Oma Sus 5a ** 152
71 Opa Mus 5a 11
72 Lofi 4c * 139
73 Lara 4c ** 189
74 Anto 5a * 75
75 Rosa
-
4b 10
76 Maria
-
3c 26
77 Ana 4c ** 180
78 Hewa 5a * 58
79 Taca Ploix 6a+ 1
80 Mushu 6a * 60
81 Ghost in the Shell 6b+ ** 41
82 Horst (TP)
-
5a * 8
83 Jan 4c ** 84
84 Eva 4c 13
85 Los Urbanos 4c * 79
86 Anbea 4a 32
87 Jonas 4a 51
Climb name Grade
88 Alasdair 3c * 78
89 Kurzer Genus 5a * 78
90 Kalk Svott Wiehnul 6b * 104
91 Heavy Boyfriend 6a+ * 45
92 Rudy Caroll 6a+ * 38
93 Coming back to Life 6c ** 83
94 Thalia 6b+ * 174
95 No Name 6a+ ** 216
96 Pegasus 6a * 148
97 Cicky Bugger 5c * 136
98 Heaven Is... 5c ** 234
99 Johanna 5a ** 191
100 Heti 4c * 114
101 4 You 6a ** 133
102 Semi Dulce 5c * 79
103 Steinbeisser 6a * 85
104 Fantasia 6a 37
105 For my son Jens 6b+ * 15
106 For my son Jens (Initial Rib) 5b 2
107 Aladdin 6c 7
108 Hafa 4c * 9
109 Hova 4c ** 49
110 Noldis 5c * 17
  Toix TV - Amphitheatre
112 Scorpion 7a+ * 4
113 Cobra (P1) 7b *** 4
114 Cobra 8a ** 1
115 Short and Sweet 5c ** 126
116 Monkey Wall 6c *** 122
117 Painted Wall 6b+ ** 142
118 Max Headroom 7c+ **  
119 Mongoose 7c **  
120 Dynosaurus 7b ** 10
121 Gripper 6a+ ** 91
122 Chain Lane 6a+ * 36
123 Nut Route 5a 3
124 Chunkies 4c 26
  Toix TV - Tropical Dreams
126 Reigen Bogen 5c 8
127 Daddycool 6a+ * 46
128 Terminator 6c+ * 24
129 Follow Me 7a+ ** 20
130 Salida 7a ** 43
131 Gaudi Max 6a+ * 111
132 Cloud No.9 6a ** 108
133 El baile 5a ** 135
134 UB40 6a ** 242
135 Tropical Dreams 6a ** 403
136 Dear Renate 6a ** 264
137 Verlassen + betrogen 4c * 283
138 Banana Joe 6a 128
139 Universal 6a ** 182
140 Gufelwufel 5a ** 340
141 Seduction 6a * 221
142 Atlantis 6a * 77
143 Gutzufuss 3c 88
144 Snadengrot 4a 94
145 Unknown 6 * 4b 7
  The Toix Ridge
147 The Toix Ridge 5c ** 142
  Raco Del Corv
149 Clive's Redoubt 7a *** 17
150 Isla de encanta 6b *** 30
151 El Dorado 6a+ *** 140
152 Eldorado 2 6a 2
153 Sombre 7b 1
154 Müne 7b  
155 Ven Corada 6b ** 9
156 Vía Missing Link 6b+ *** 53
157 Ven Corada Right 6b+ *  
158 Luces Nocturnas 6b **  
159 Le Galleon 6a * 2
  Magical Mystery Tour
161 Rowland's Promised Land 6b ** 2
162 Rowland's Journey to Xanadu 6c *** 2
163 Journey to Xanadu 6c **  
164 Kubla Khan 7b *  
165 Dimage 6b+ *  
166 Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour 5a *** 311
167 Raptured Dreams 7a  
168 The Flame 7b  
169 Candelabra del Sol 8a ***  
170 Goliath 8a **  
171 Lady in Space 6b ** 1
172 Malice Aforethought 6b *  
173 Calamardo * 6c+ ** 2
Climb name Grade
  Pirates of the Caribbean
175 Calamardo
-
7a+ 1
176 La Senda de los Huesos 6b 1
177 Calypso (P1)
-
6c ** 2
178 Calypso 7b+ * 1
179 El fin del mundo (P1)
-
7a+ ** 2
180 El Fin del Mundo 7c ** 1
181 Perla Negra 8a *** 1
182 Perla Negra (P1)
-
7a+ *** 1
183 Bo'Sun (P1) 6a ** 3
184 Boson 7b+ ** 1
185 Boson's Chair 7c *  
186 Tia Alma 7c **  
187 Murtogg 6c+ *  
188 Mullroy 7a **  
189 Tortuga Approach 7a *  
190 Tortuga Island 7c **  
191 Capt Barbossa 7a+ 3
192 Anna Maria la Pirata con Cojones 7c+ ** 2
193 Off the Edge of the Map 8a ***  
194 Keelhauled 7b *** 1
195 Plank Walk 6c * 4
196 Parle 6a+ *** 172
197 Miss Swan 6b * 2
198 Aztec Gold 6b+  
199 Welcome to the Caribbean 7c+ **  
200 Jack Sparrow 7a *  
201 Orange Men 8a+ **  
  Toix Este
203 Variante Juan Directa 5c 2
204 George 3c 25
205 Juan 4a 10
206 Quick 4a 10
207 Horst 4c * 59
208 Spatz 5a * 12
209 Puma 5c ** 11
210 Espolón Arta 4a 24
211 Eva's Traum 5c * 15
212 Koch Platte 5c * 22
213 Genid 5a * 26
214 Los Amigos 5c * 20
215 Ralf 3a * 7
216 Kulore 4a 9
217 Super Kulore 4a * 22
218 Hetti 4c * 59
219 Fluida Conexión Izquierda 6b 4
220 Fluida Conexión 6b+ * 7
221 Borro el toro 7a+ 3
222 Edward's Slab 7a 2
223 La tonta del bote 6b+ * 4
224 Vía de los fakiros 6b+ * 8
225 Hannah 6b ** 14
226 Hekur 5c * 18
227 Purpúreo 5a * 43
228 Spölli 5a * 79
229 Winter 6a ** 59
230 Verde 5c ** 92
231 "P" 5c ** 52
232 Vía la fina 5c ** 91
233 Plata 6a+ * 33
234 Vía pyramid 5a * 24
235 Sol y bon tiempo 6b+ * 16
236 Vía yuyuba Directa 6c * 6
237 Vía yuyuba 6a+ *** 62
238 King Cucudrulu 7a 8
239 El oso y el mandaron 6a+ ** 28
240 Verde dos 6a * 51
241 La ramuna arenosa 6a+ * 51
242 Going Solo 6c+ 13
243 Graphic Whore 6c+ 6
244 Amarillo 6a 24
245 Adiós Dali 7c+ *  
  Toix Norte
247 Route 1 7b **  
248 Por quien doblan 7b+ **  
249 Route 3 7a+ *** 3
250 S.S. 7b *** 2
251 La Niña 6b+  
252 La Novia 6b 1
253 La Viuda 6c 1
254 Piñón 7a 1
255 Route 9 7b *  
256 Route 10 7a+ *  
257 Unknown 4 * 4a 7
258 Unknown 5 * 5b ** 8
259 Cilber * 5c ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris Craggs