Climbs 82
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces SE

The classic shot of Tai Chi at Olta on the Costa Blanca © Mark Glaister - Assistant Editor

Crag features

The impressive ridge of rock which overlooks Calp has a few routes dotted around although the best are centred on an impressive arete and the walls on either side of it. The rock is excellent and the views over Calp are stunning with the Peñón making a great backdrop for photographs of the superb arête of Tai Chi. The other major classic is the Super Tufa Groove which is one of the best 6b+ routes in the area.

The rock is quite sharp and a day here tends to take its toll on your finger tips. Some of the harder routes have improved or fully-created holds which spoil the experience a bit, but mostly the moves and climbing are excellent. Hopefully one day more routes will be climbed up on this ridge since the potential of the much larger right-hand end hasn't been touched yet, though the fact that it is in the shade most of the day is probably the main reason.

The crag faces south east and catches plenty of sun although in winter the sun goes off the crag in the early afternoon. It is high and exposed to any wind.

Bouldering
In the last few years many problems have been added to the boulders below the crag. Photos in the crag photos section.
Potential for much more in the future.

Approach notes

The crag is approached from the N332 above Calp. First you need to get onto the road to the 'Estacion F.C.' which leaves the N332 from the main Calp junction. This is awkward if you are approaching from the south; either turn off into Calp and go around the first roundabout to come back under the N332, or over-shoot the junction and turn around so that you are coming south on the N332. Once established drive past the station across the tracks, following the brown signs steadily uphill to 'Monte Olta' and 'Zona de acampada' and park by the (free) camping site. Head up the hill to a track, turn left and follow this past a big zig-zag, and then a chain and on to a large water tank on the right. A rough track leads behind this, up the steep hillside towards the crag. At a flat area is a painted boulder pointing to routes left and right. The main crag is on the right, another steep five minutes up the scree, 30 mins from the car.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
Many of the new routes added to the logbook can be found by finding their names painted on the wall below. A large amount of them are multi pitch and grades given are the hardest of these routes.
Matt Smith - 13/Nov/14
The easy climbs at Olta south are generally poor but are dodgy due to single point lower offs. The majority can be backed up with solid threads and mallions, very strange due to good bolts being used on the routes.
Zoomer - 09/Nov/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Olta South
2 Aloe 3 2
3 Agave 3 4
4 Malve 3+ 20
5 Romero 5a 35
6 Lavandel 4c 26
7 Rosa 4a 20
8 Tomillo 4a 23
9 Voila 4c 26
10 Petunia 4a 17
11 Fresia 4c 27
12 Gisela 5a * 41
13 Kulore 4a * 44
14 Adler 5a 11
15 Opuntia
-
3 1
16 Rudi 5a 23
17 Learning to Fly 6a * 25
18 Si Maria 6b * 3
19 Central Groove 6a * 17
20 Living on the Edge 6c 1
21 Milan
-
3  
22 Falke
-
4a 1
23 Geier
-
4a 1
24 Heidi
-
3  
25 Hanne
-
4a 5
26 Taube 4c 11
27 Mowe
-
5a 4
28 Elster 4a * 26
29 Robe 4c * 17
30 Dohle 5a 9
31 Amsel
-
3  
32 Star
-
3  
33 Kauz
-
4a 2
34 Uhu 4a 2
35 Eule
-
4a 3
36 Viva Calpe 5a ** 5
  Olta Main
38 Lost in Flight 7c ** 1
39 Si Maria 7c ** 12
40 Tufa-Groove 6b+ *** 180
41 Lyenga 7a *** 28
42 Tao 6a * 26
43 Wings of Freedom 7a+ * 8
44 Ki 6c ** 33
45 Mulan 7a+ * 5
46 Tai chi 6b+ *** 310
47 Spanish Eyes 6b+ ** 91
48 Fantasía encanto 7b+  
49 Ninja 7c  
50 Hillside Avenue 6c * 8
51 Halt Mich 6c+ 1
52 Hola Olta 6c+ * 23
53 Vamos 6a ** 196
54 Best of '95 5a ** 258
55 Du Darfst 5a ** 287
56 Turrón 5a ** 92
57 Das Buch der 5 Ringe 5c * 83
58 Touch Me Softly 5a * 123
59 Christmas Dreams 5c * 180
60 Breakthrough 5a * 79
  Olta Pinnacle
62 Panamericana 4a 3
63 Clandestino 5c  
64 Nido de Condores 4a 2
  Olta Right
66 Boulebard
-
6c  
67 Before I Grow Old
-
6c  
68 Don't Remember
-
6c  
69 Arista con vistas a Ibiza
-
6c  
70 Idea obsesiva
-
6c  
  Ghecko Boulder
72 Canny Problem f6A  
73 Flump Factory f5  
74 Project f6A+  
75 Freerider f3+  
76 Play f4  
77 Si's sit start f5+  
78 Pocket Problem f4  
  U2 Boulder
80 Desire f6A+  
81 One f5  
82 Rattle & Hum f4  
83 The Fly f4  
84 The Joshua Tree f5+  
85 Vertigo f6A+  
86 The Sweetest Thing f5+  
  Unknown Area
88 Atrotinat 6b * 1
89 Boulder boros 6c+ ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matt Smith