Altitude 400m a.s.l
The classic shot of Tai Chi at Olta on the Costa Blanca © Mark Glaister - Assistant Editor
The impressive ridge of rock which overlooks Calp has a few routes dotted around although the best are centred on an impressive arete and the walls on either side of it. The rock is excellent and the views over Calp are stunning with the Peñón making a great backdrop for photographs of the superb arête of Tai Chi. The other major classic is the Super Tufa Groove which is one of the best 6b+ routes in the area.
The rock is quite sharp and a day here tends to take its toll on your finger tips. Some of the harder routes have improved or fully-created holds which spoil the experience a bit, but mostly the moves and climbing are excellent. Hopefully one day more routes will be climbed up on this ridge since the potential of the much larger right-hand end hasn't been touched yet, though the fact that it is in the shade most of the day is probably the main reason.
The crag faces south east and catches plenty of sun although in winter the sun goes off the crag in the early afternoon. It is high and exposed to any wind.
In the last few years many problems have been added to the boulders below the crag. Photos in the crag photos section.
Potential for much more in the future.
The crag is approached from the N332 above Calp. First you need to get onto the road to the 'Estacion F.C.' which leaves the N332 from the main Calp junction. This is awkward if you are approaching from the south; either turn off into Calp and go around the first roundabout to come back under the N332, or over-shoot the junction and turn around so that you are coming south on the N332. Once established drive past the station across the tracks, following the brown signs steadily uphill to 'Monte Olta' and 'Zona de acampada' and park by the (free) camping site. Head up the hill to a track, turn left and follow this past a big zig-zag, and then a chain and on to a large water tank on the right. A rough track leads behind this, up the steep hillside towards the crag. At a flat area is a painted boulder pointing to routes left and right. The main crag is on the right, another steep five minutes up the scree, 30 mins from the car.
|Many of the new routes added to the logbook can be found by finding their names painted on the wall below. A large amount of them are multi pitch and grades given are the hardest of these routes.|
Matt Smith - 13/Nov/14
|The easy climbs at Olta south are generally poor but are dodgy due to single point lower offs. The majority can be backed up with solid threads and mallions, very strange due to good bolts being used on the routes.|
Zoomer - 09/Nov/13
|17||Learning to Fly||6a *||25|
|18||Si Maria||6b *||3|
|19||Central Groove||6a *||17|
|20||Living on the Edge||6c||1|
|36||Viva Calpe||5a **||7|
|37||Kecun *||5c **||1|
|38||Xue Li *||5b *||1|
|41||Lost in Flight||7c **||1|
|42||Si Maria||7c **||16|
|46||Wings of Freedom||7a+ *||12|
|49||Tai chi||6b+ ***||351|
|50||Spanish Eyes||6b+ **||107|
|53||Hillside Avenue||6c *||9|
|55||Hola Olta||6c+ *||25|
|57||Best of '95||5a **||276|
|58||Du Darfst||5a **||314|
|60||Das Buch der 5 Ringe||5c *||91|
|61||Touch Me Softly||5a *||135|
|62||Christmas Dreams||5c *||196|
|67||Nido de Condores||4a||2|
|70||Before I Grow Old||
|72||Arista con vistas a Ibiza||
|80||Si's sit start||f5+|
|85||Rattle & Hum||f4|
|87||The Joshua Tree||f5+|
|89||The Sweetest Thing||f5+|
|91||Atrotinat †||6b *||1|
|92||Boulder boros||6c+ **||1|