Climbs 56
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 65m a.s.l
Faces all

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calpe lightning © melville18

Crag features

The most striking landmark in the whole of the Costa Blanca is the 332m high tower of the Peñón de Ifach that towers over Calp. The subject of the majority of the area's postcards must attract every climber's eye, and those who have attempted routes here will know that the climbing does not disappoint. The South Face of the Peñón is the more extensive of the two main climbing areas. This huge orange wall rises up above the sea, its top half riddled with caves, overhangs and groove systems. Many long routes find their way up the face and weave through this complex rock architecture to finish satisfyingly on the summit. There is a number of lower-grade challenges that are popular classics - requiring an early start and a decent rack of gear; Valencianos and Vía UBSA are the prime examples. The really big ticks are the superb, fully-bolted classics like Costa Blanca, El Navegante, Puto paseo ecológico and Nueva Dimensión. There are few sport routes to compare with these anywhere in the Costa Blanca. The other area described here is the North Face, which points inland and overlooks the park's visitor centre; a useful venue when the weather is hot.

The rock is of variable quality, with some loose material, especially on the lower pitches. It is worth wearing a helmet, especially on the easier and more popular routes. A top tip to avoid rockfall is make sure you are on the cliff early so that there are fewer people above you! Of course this also means that it is vital to be careful when climbing here since there will be teams below.

All the routes are long and can require 5 or 6 hours or more for a leisurely ascent, although there are reports of people taking as long as 11 hours on Gómez-Cano. Despite this, climbers who are well organised should manage to reach the summit in 3 to 4 hours.

The main climbing faces southwest and is full in the sun from mid-morning onwards. Its exposed position means it can get breezy, but the heat is likely to be more of a problem. If you are a slow climber, carry lots of water and sun cream. The North Face is a different proposition since it is in the shade except on summer evenings.

Approach notes

If you are based in Calp, you will know where the Peñón is! If you are driving from further out, take the Altea turn off the AP-7 (junction 64) and drive through the Mascarat Gorge on the N332. Soon after, turn off right into Calp. Drive down the main road towards the Peñón ahead. When the road veers around to the left, turn right (signed 'Peñón'). Keep going to where the road forks and take the right-hand branch. Drive down here to the harbour side and park as near the cliff as you can get; beware the tow-away zones (yellow kerbs). See route pages for approaches from here.

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Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The North Face
3 Verde esmeralda 6a+ * 10
4 Taberna del puerta 6c+ ** 1
5 Asignatura pendiente 6b ** 7
6 Vampiro 6c+ ** 5
7 Sinfonía de las Gaviotas 6b  
8 Matas-Lozano 6a  
9 Vía Roxy 6b * 5
10 Diedro Botella 5c * 4
11 Vía Pany 5a ** 147
12 Piel de Talco 5b  
13 Tropical Gangster 6b  
14 Pere Cabrera 5b  
15 The Nights Who Say Ni linkup * E1 5b * 1
  The West Face
17 Potencia Peluquera 7a 2
18 Puñalada Trapera 6b+  
19 El hoy fugaz es tenue y es Eterno... A3  
Climb name Grade
  The South Face
21 Same 6a * 19
22 Viajero del Viento 6b  
23 Vía Valencianos 5c ** 443
24 Direct de UBSA 6a * 70
25 Polvos mágicos 6a+ ** 66
26 Sensacion de vivir 6b+ * 4
27 Virginia Díez 6b * 3
28 Pilar López de Sancho 6c ** 8
29 Pilar Lopez de Pancho
7b+ 1
30 Piratas 5c * 11
31 Los miserables 6c+ * 6
32 Costa Blanca 6c+ *** 187
33 Costa Miserables 6b+ *** 47
34 Puto paseo ecológico 7a *** 28
35 Me estoy quedando sin yemas 6c * 6
36 Diedro UBSA 5c *** 446
37 El navegante 7a *** 56
38 La Gaviota 6c  
39 Tronco Pirates A4  
Climb name Grade
40 Syldavia A3  
41 Manuel Pitch 1 6b+ ** 10
42 Manuel 6b * 3
43 Línea Mágica 6c+ *** 11
44 Vía Gómez-Cano 6b *** 46
45 Anglada Gallego 6c * 2
46 Mistela 6c ** 4
47 Los Lunes al Sol 7a *** 3
48 Mare nostrum 7a+ *** 10
49 Espacio Libre 6b+  
50 Directa Rusa 6c 2
51 Superdirecta 7a 1
52 Revelación 6b+ 1
53 La Nariz 6b  
54 Herbes Mágiques 6c+ 1
55 Al Infierno con el Diablo A4  
56 Nueva Dimensión 7b *** 6
57 Tiempos Nuevos, Tiempos Salvajes A4  
58 Sin Permiso de Obras 7a 2
59 Penon de Ifach (summit)
summit 23
60 Triple Directa *
6b+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Emma